I'd probably just get the regular stock height springs, but I don't have any heavy bumpers and armor.
If the springs are original even the stock height ones will probably give you that 1-2' of lift from your current height.
just bought a 96 80....
- Thread starter Midgainc
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If the springs are original even the stock height ones will probably give you that 1-2' of lift from your current height.
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- #62
initially, I was not interested in replacing the head gasket, but here pretty soon, I will have the timing cover fully exposed, and the exhaust manifold disconnected (servicing oil cooler).....and it looks like I need to remove intake to change out a couple of hoses buried under there. So, I am 50% there/90% to go already. I did the exhaust in coolant chemical test, and it passed. However, it seems like there is much more condensation than seems normal coming from the exhaust. iIRC, there was more water dripping from exhaust from some older cars, but i was a kid then. Can anyone with similar experience chime in?
it would be a waste of time to go back in there, if I should just keep going now.
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- #63
BTW, always starts in 2 to 3 seconds, idles perfectly for hours on end. I have not put it on the road since I have had it. It has had too many leaks. P/S and oil. The underside is still filthy after 3 pressure washings and degreasings. It is getting cleaner, but only because of arms and sleeves rubbing on things as I work on it......
Do it all so that you know for sure it was done and done right.
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- #65
I just watched the OTRAMM YouTube on head removal. that looks like a about a 4 hour job. and that is from where I am now. maybe longer. anyone replaced the wiring harness while they were at it? seems like a good time. 27 years old isn't too young...
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- #66
I called the local machine shop I have used for years and discussed my situation. They said it sounds like a cracked head. they have seen where exhaust gases didnt enter the coolant, but engine would steam. I am now looking to carve out the time to remove. It is also warming up here.....supposed to be 90 today.
I'd definitely go ahead with the HG because of how close you are. The head inspection, new valve stem seals and peace of mind will be worth it. I'd replace the head bolts also regardless of how they measure or their history.
Don't know if you have excess condensation out of the exhaust but in my experience normal condensation can seem really high if you are paranoid and looking for issues. Keep in mind that for every gallon of fuel burned that more than a gallon of water is created and these rigs burn a lot of fuel! You should be seeing a lot of condensation if the air / exhaust system temps are cool enough.
Don't know if you have excess condensation out of the exhaust but in my experience normal condensation can seem really high if you are paranoid and looking for issues. Keep in mind that for every gallon of fuel burned that more than a gallon of water is created and these rigs burn a lot of fuel! You should be seeing a lot of condensation if the air / exhaust system temps are cool enough.
Was your cooling system getting pressurised, or your just talking about smoke from the exhaust? Like jpoole said it’s kind of a quirk of these trucks to smoke a little on startup. Anyway, they should be able to pressure test the head for you.
To clarify @Ozark80 I was responding to the observation of moisture/water in the exhaust.
I don't think it's normal for most 80s to "smoke" on startup or while running and mine does not do this to a noticeable degree. Catalytic converters are part of why they don't smoke with warm, good valve stem seals, good tune and not being worn out keep smoke down during startup and hard operation.
It's semantics but I'm classifying water/steam as separate from smoke here. Smoke to me is the byproduct of the combustion of oil, poor combustion of fuel (typically when rich) or other visible but not steam or water vapor emissions.
I don't think it's normal for most 80s to "smoke" on startup or while running and mine does not do this to a noticeable degree. Catalytic converters are part of why they don't smoke with warm, good valve stem seals, good tune and not being worn out keep smoke down during startup and hard operation.
It's semantics but I'm classifying water/steam as separate from smoke here. Smoke to me is the byproduct of the combustion of oil, poor combustion of fuel (typically when rich) or other visible but not steam or water vapor emissions.
Ok, thanks for the clarification. I've noticed some white smoke on mine on startup after sitting, must be the valve stem seals I guess.
@Ozark80 Yeah seems like a good guess. A few supporting details are that the valve stem seals consistently lead to increased oil consumption by the 1FZ as the seals age and startup smoke on many engines points to valve guide or stem seal leaks.
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- #72
my LC steams. when it was cold, i didnt think anything of it. however, when temps are in the 80's, it should not steam and drip condensation.....at least i dont think it should. I have taken several vehicles back from the dead and made them extremely reliable machines. BUT, they required going through everything, and I mean everything. I have committed to doing that to this one, so that should I get the spare time, I can hit the road with no worries. I will service each axle with new seals(maybe bearings) and brakes as I work up my stamina for the HG job. As a side note, the Christmas came early today and Santa dropped off an ARB front bumper!
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- #73
Here is a question for an expert......I am not familiar with the "bucket and shim" method of valve clearance adjustment....meaning I have never done it. My question is: If you remove cams and sort buckets by cylinder, send head off for checking.... and it checks out but they grind the valves, and replace all seals, OR better yet, you replace the valves with NEW, WILL THE BUCKETS WORK AS REMOVED? Or will they have to re-shimmed?
as a side note, it seems much simpler and faster than adjusting the valves on a sbc. I would prob end up liking it more.
^^^^^^^^^^ this
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- #75
today I painted the interior plastic pieces using the SEM products and removed exhaust manifold nuts/studs. next step is to remove the manifolds and oil cooler. there is pretty serious oil leak on rear valve cover. I know that will be one of the leaks solved when I get to it.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I’m no expert but when I had my head done I sent him the head complete you will Have to remove cams to get head off. I labeled the shims with a paint pen and was advised egg cartons work great to organinze than put it all Back together loosely when I dropped it off and let the shop handle the shimming. Doesn’t really answer your question I guess just how one dummy did it. Also a new wiring harness is about $600 bucks I am in the process of pulling my motor and swapping. If you do take the head to a shop I would bring them everything you want cleaned and have them hot tank it.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Im
Once again no expert. The process for checking shims would be to set the cams and measure with feeler gauges between cams and shim buckets. If they are in spec your good to go if not you would replace with the correct bucket shim. Then recheck after assembly. Rinse and repeat until everything is in spec. When my head was done all the shims where in spec I don’t recall the tolerance but this is not a common thing for 1fz to need replacements. If you don’t check you can cause burnt valves and ruin all that nice work you just did.
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- #78
nice looking engine. mine hasn't been that clean since 96, I bet. it sounds like if the valves are within spec and the cam lobes haven't worn down, then you can reuse the same buckets and shims to get where you need to be. I prob should check before disassembly, for kicks to see if there is a prob to start with. thanks for the advice.
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- #79
the last thing I want to do is all of this over again. I willntake the 30 mins to check everything twice.
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- #80
I have pressure washed this thing 3 times underneath using a variety of degreasers. at best now when working on it, I only get filthy. is there a superpowerful degreaser out there that will cut through this baked on oil coating?