Just another New FJ40 Nut (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
Hey all,
I have been reading post for a bit now and decided it was time to join and throw my hat into the ring,, Again. I bought my first FJ40 in 1985, well actually my Dad bought it for me (traded and 75 VW Bug + $500 for a 74 FJ40 mint condition).Well as I got older and started my first business in 1989 I need $$ for the new venture so I sold her. Regretted it every since. Well now here we are 25 years later and I finally bought another. It is 1972 FJ40 and actually was somewhat of a barn find, except it is missing a lot of main parts, like a top and doors. The rig has the F155 motor, 3 speed Trans. It was used as play vehicle on a farm in south GA and was not taken very good care of by the PO. But i got pretty good deal (I think!) we wil see. It is a bit of present, the PO had some body work done (ie bondo) and primered the rig inside and out dash included. So I am sure I will find a rusty mess.

So it runs and drives, have not had it on the road as the head lights and blinkers are not working. A lot of rust to work out. the glove box it gone. At this point though I would like to get it in a place to be able to drive it around and work on it as time allows. The PO installed a new gas tank, I think the wrong one due to rust and used a junk yard seat to use as a strap to hold the tank in place. So here is where I am, I am in need of some advice on a few items. so where do I begin? I have included some photos to start.

Thanks
Parks68

IMG_1975.jpg


IMG_1978.jpg


IMG_1979.jpg
 

JohnnyC

Long ago TLCA# 2231
Joined
Jun 17, 2005
Messages
17,028
Location
UpState Ny, Wells Me
Welcome to Mud :)

You weren't kidding when you said it was primed inside and outside... He got EVERYTHING inside hit with primer... But...

It does look like a great truck :)

22 years ago my truck was a bondo queen :) so if there is bondo ... Give your self time ... Drive it, enjoy it, learn what it needs ... Oh and also


Flip your primered bezel :) thick side goes up :)
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the replys, yea I actually took the Bezel off to flip it and to check the change the head lamps. I had one screw head break off and another stripped so I had to use and extractor to remove it. Can you guys tell me the screw size for the front bezel?
 

GA Architect

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3,439
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Woodstock, GA
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the replys, yea I actually took the Bezel off to flip it and to check the change the head lamps. I had one screw head break off and another stripped so I had to use and extractor to remove it. Can you guys tell me the screw size for the front bezel?
Parks68 - Welcome to MUD! Nice to see another GA member on here. Coolerman has a nut and bolt sheet that might help with your needs, here is the link: Nut/Bolt Spreadsheet

The one you are asking about I believe are, M6-1.0 x 20mm...note some have used nylon or rubber spacers between the screw head & bezel, and bezel & metal bib. Thus you may need a longer screw.

Enjoy your rig!
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
Thanks GA Architect, I see by your logo you must like to hit the little white ball around.? Ever been to Augusta in the Spring?
 

GA Architect

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Woodstock, GA
Thanks GA Architect, I see by your logo you must like to hit the little white ball around.? Ever been to Augusta in the Spring?
Yep....been there, done that.

Two weeks later, a group of about 16 to 24 friends goes to The River Golf Club for a 4 day weekend, and stay in their cabins!
 

JohnnyC

Long ago TLCA# 2231
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As per Toyodiy... Toyota part numbers

Oem rubber spacer 53112-60010
Spacer superceded to 53112-90300

Oem bezel screw 93210-66025

If your not all that 'needs to be toyota' a good replacement for the bezel spacer is fuel line cut to size ... If you go a bit longer it will act as a lock washer and hold it REALY Tight ( that was a great tip from Shane aka @AATLAS1X )
 
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Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
19,474
You sure that's not a 73? is the id plate still on the panel by the driver's door?

The plate is still there and it says 1972

It may be stamped 72 but it should also have three letters which will say month it was made. Guessing it's either Sep/Oct/Nov/Dec Which would make it a 73 model. Radio opening in the bottom of the dash and that steering column started with the 73 model.

Few more things it probably has that 72 model won't. gas fill opening has a door or at least a rectangular opening with a place to bolt a door on the bottom. Transmission cover has a flange all the way around the back. 72 still had a toll box under the front seat. wires in the center of th e dash for a light in the pad the goes across the top of the dash. Handle for the vent in the cowl is over the heater and not to the left of it.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
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Location
Evans GA
Yep....been there, done that.

Two weeks later, a group of about 16 to 24 friends goes to The River Golf Club for a 4 day weekend, and stay in their cabins!
Great Course played there many times, if you are ever down this way , I always looking for reason to play, not that hardly play much these days
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
As per Toyodiy... Toyota part numbers

Oem rubber spacer 53112-60010
Spacer superceded to 53112-90300

Oem bezel screw 93210-66025

If your not all that 'needs to be toyota' a good replacement for the bezel spacer is fuel line cut to size ... If you go a bit longer it will act as a lock washer and hold it REALY Tight ( that was a great tip from Shane aka @AATLAS1X )


JohnnyC: Thanks for the detail and excellent tip on the fuel line, I will check that out. So the next question is where can I get these parts/screws? Can I go to any hardware or specialty fastener store like Fastenal?
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Evans GA
It may be stamped 72 but it should also have three letters which will say month it was made. Guessing it's either Sep/Oct/Nov/Dec Which would make it a 73 model. Radio opening in the bottom of the dash and that steering column started with the 73 model.

Few more things it probably has that 72 model won't. gas fill opening has a door or at least a rectangular opening with a place to bolt a door on the bottom. Transmission cover has a flange all the way around the back. 72 still had a toll box under the front seat. wires in the center of the dash for a light in the pad the goes across the top of the dash. Handle for the vent in the cowl is over the heater and not to the left of it.

Living in the Past: You are correct, the label says Nov 1972 so it would be an early 73. so i found a 72 that looks to have some good hardware on it ,would anything be interchangeable? I know the motor and trans should be but not sure if anything else would be. I looked at the rig and, the top was used on another unit and this truck has been sitting in the woods under pine trees exposed to the elements for years. But it may have some parts that have survived, not sure going to look again and maybe just offer to remove for free.
 

RWBeringer4x4

Mechanically Challenged
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The People's Republik of Maryland
Welcome!

Regarding fasteners - it depends on how original/correct you want your truck. My FJ40 is a mix of SAE/JIS automotive nuts/bolts/screws with a smattering of grade 8 and stainless hardware store fasteners thrown in for good measure. I've ordered a lot of the common size bolts from McMaster Carr in JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) but even then, the heads tend to be about 1mm wider than the original Japanese Automotive bolts. So a bolt that used to have a 10mm head will now have an 11mm head, etc.

I'm not going for a concourse restoration, nor am I averse to having a few extra wrenches out when I'm working on something, so it doesn't really matter to me. My truck came with a 283CI Chevy small block installed, so a mixture of bolts was expected...

Good luck with the project! My two cents:

Start with the brakes, make sure the lines/rubber are all good and not dry rotted or rusted, and your drums are properly adjusted and not leaking. Running and driving are great, but they're really bad if you can't stop!

After that, it sounds like you'll need headlights and blinkers, so figuring out the wiring will be a priority. As a rule of thumb, non-functional lights are almost always a bad ground somewhere.

As others have said, once you have the major kinks worked out, DRIVE IT. They're way more fun to own if they're drivable than in 1000 pieces in the garage. This is coming from a guy whose truck was up on jackstands with no axles all summer, so take it with a grain of salt...
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
19,474
Many things will change over pretty easy. Doors/hard top/front clip should be the same or very close with minor change that will not effect just bolting on The tub from the B pillar back only difference I can think of is gas door opening and fixed nuts for seat frame and maybe nuts for gas tank straps. Section between A pillar and B pillar (front floor) has the biggest change. Tool box/ bench to bucket seat/gas tank/ transmission cover all changed between 72 and 73 models. Cowl section was a little different. Steering box changed completely but the rest of the steering and running are the same except 72 could have a column shift. Could be wrong on a few things but hopefully someone with point them out.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
3,829
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Denver CO
Contact @beno if you want an inside man getting OEM parts for you. Might be worth your while for certain items. He's in Georgia.

You might search around for a metric hardware supplier local to you (in Denver we have a metric-only hardware supplier). Sometimes you will get lucky and a hardware store will carry some stuff, but will usually be ISO/DIN metric instead of the JIS metric our trucks have.
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
Welcome!

Regarding fasteners - it depends on how original/correct you want your truck. My FJ40 is a mix of SAE/JIS automotive nuts/bolts/screws with a smattering of grade 8 and stainless hardware store fasteners thrown in for good measure. I've ordered a lot of the common size bolts from McMaster Carr in JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) but even then, the heads tend to be about 1mm wider than the original Japanese Automotive bolts. So a bolt that used to have a 10mm head will now have an 11mm head, etc.

I'm not going for a concourse restoration, nor am I averse to having a few extra wrenches out when I'm working on something, so it doesn't really matter to me. My truck came with a 283CI Chevy small block installed, so a mixture of bolts was expected...

Good luck with the project! My two cents:

Start with the brakes, make sure the lines/rubber are all good and not dry rotted or rusted, and your drums are properly adjusted and not leaking. Running and driving are great, but they're really bad if you can't stop!

After that, it sounds like you'll need headlights and blinkers, so figuring out the wiring will be a priority. As a rule of thumb, non-functional lights are almost always a bad ground somewhere.

As others have said, once you have the major kinks worked out, DRIVE IT. They're way more fun to own if they're drivable than in 1000 pieces in the garage. This is coming from a guy whose truck was up on jackstands with no axles all summer, so take it with a grain of salt...


Rick,

Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate the help, and I do plan to get it in shape to drive. On the headliights the odd thing is the instrument cluster light and running lights on the back light, could that still be a ground issue?

Thanks
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
Many things will change over pretty easy. Doors/hard top/front clip should be the same or very close with minor change that will not effect just bolting on The tub from the B pillar back only difference I can think of is gas door opening and fixed nuts for seat frame and maybe nuts for gas tank straps. Section between A pillar and B pillar (front floor) has the biggest change. Tool box/ bench to bucket seat/gas tank/ transmission cover all changed between 72 and 73 models. Cowl section was a little different. Steering box changed completely but the rest of the steering and running are the same except 72 could have a column shift. Could be wrong on a few things but hopefully someone with point them out.

Living in the past: The 72 does have the bench seat in the front, although it needs rebuilt. Do you know of the Gas tank straps and cover will work in the 73. It would be nice to be able to use some of them. Also how about the front section where the dash and firewall it that interchangeable. I am expecting alot of rust there, I just have a sneaky suspicion.

Thanks again!
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
29
Location
Evans GA
Contact @beno if you want an inside man getting OEM parts for you. Might be worth your while for certain items. He's in Georgia.

You might search around for a metric hardware supplier local to you (in Denver we have a metric-only hardware supplier). Sometimes you will get lucky and a hardware store will carry some stuff, but will usually be ISO/DIN metric instead of the JIS metric our trucks have.

Matt,

Thanks for information, I will try to get a hold of @beno to see where he is located, I appreciate the info and knowledge!!
 

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