jsosh26.....76LandCruiser...SHUSH......

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

well we are all in sync on that....I have a few colors of green, varying brands, in the garage to test under my hood.....they are rattle cans though.

Bodean, I would do a temp spray booth, but I think she would kill me and we have way to much stuff that comes in and out to really attempt it....I was thinking of doing the tub, then each body part individually by removing all paint, priming and then doing 3 coats of rattle can.....then as I get trail rash I can prep and redo areas......it wont shine like a stage 2, but hey....im about funciontality and preservation of good metal!

Andy and I are reading up on various ways to do it and I am about decided to try it....my paint job looks good from 20 feet but is actually pretty shot.
 
Make sure they are the flat finish. That will hide rough areas and mistakes much better. I never found the rust oleum camo series around flowood but I saw krylon for $6 a can and valspar at lowes for $3 a can. You may want to do one coat of primer first to prep the surface. There is self etching or filling primer, not sure which is better.
 
No need to wheel it down to bare metal where there is no rust. Just rough it up and spray.
 
You know you can buy it in gallon cans and spray it with a gun. Much less wear on the finger!
 
Make sure they are the flat finish. That will hide rough areas and mistakes much better. I never found the rust oleum camo series around flowood but I saw krylon for $6 a can and valspar at lowes for $3 a can. You may want to do one coat of primer first to prep the surface. There is self etching or filling primer, not sure which is better.

I think krylon or rustoleum is what I will end up using. I think the filling primer will be better for my use....

No need to wheel it down to bare metal where there is no rust. Just rough it up and spray.
ill probably use my sander and get it all roughed up and on those bad spots get through the flaky rust, put Rust bullet, resand lightly and then put normal filling primer on it and then a few extra coats of whatever im painting with for good measure

You know you can buy it in gallon cans and spray it with a gun. Much less wear on the finger!

I have one of those nifty cap triggers that goes on the cans and it helps me avoid buying a gun and overspraying it to much (I know I know...they aren't expensive, but id like to do it all for about $100)


Dang yall have about talked me into this the only thing holding me up is that I would want to do the top and that will be a pain...but I am definitely going to start testing colors....the tub, hood, fenders will probably get done first then the top.

Maybe ill post colors and let yall throw in your .02 cents on it....but I kinda like the military OD green flat idea.....only thing is my dash won't match, but oh well.
 
Dang yall have about talked me into this the only thing holding me up is that I would want to do the top and that will be a pain...but I am definitely going to start testing colors....the tub, hood, fenders will probably get done first then the top.

When/if I ever build my trailer, it will be OD green with a flat camo tan top. IMO flat tan would be a good contrast for the top and bezel of a 40.
OD Green 40.webp
OD Green 40_2.webp
 
Last edited:
You may also want to try Krylon Hunter Green. Pic from MUD:
Krylon Hunter Green.webp
 
Nice....I like both....just put some rustoleum rustic green under the hood.....way to bright....I will check into the OD green...i like it more than the krylon.

Natalie is pushing for a LIGHT green....almost mint color....we shall see I would go for that if I was sanding down to bare metal, but I think it will show way to many imperfections. found this example https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body...attle-can-spanish-montana-graffiti-paint.html

here is some good info on a few military OD green products....it's on a HEEP, but the paint color is exactly what I think i want to do https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/263978-military-paints-all-flat.html
 
Last edited:
I went to the small hardware store by Jumbo and they had several colors in the RO and krylon camo collections(just not the RO khaki I am looking for). I am going to check out bass pro and see what they have sometime soon. I will let you know.
 
When yall decide on a color give me a shout. I can probably get it through Revell Hardware at a discount. Try Ace paint as well. Good paint!
 

NICe....yall gotta stop....im getting really excited..just read 3 threads on rattle can jobs...probably 300 post worth! (wife is watching stupid shows on tv)

I went to the small hardware store by Jumbo and they had several colors in the RO and krylon camo collections(just not the RO khaki I am looking for). I am going to check out bass pro and see what they have sometime soon. I will let you know.

I was sold on the green, but have always loved the light blue and khaki too.....hmmmm what to do what to do

When yall decide on a color give me a shout. I can probably get it through Revell Hardware at a discount. Try Ace paint as well. Good paint!

nice, thanks Bodean...you started your tub yet? or still recovering from being in lousiana for 3 days:D


saw this earlier.....they have all types of OD paints for any year military vehicle in gallons or cans....pretty cool
 
I would recommend against using a flat paint. Dirt loves to get into the pores and it just never gets good and clean.

But...... Its a 40. They're supposed to be dirty.
 
Satin finish
 
Maybe he wants to be like Shunts junk, Dirty! (begin jokes now)
 
ok well I definitely dont want SKANK! I will try some various colors and manufacturers and see what strikes my fancy (as of now I am leaning towards 2 coats primer and 2 coats rustoleum or krylon..we shall see) but I have time to decided on paint as I have the below to do FIRST!!!

priority is
1.finishing the tub
2.rust bullet on said tub
3. getting lenny to help me with 2, maybe 3 metal patches
4. some very light, shallow bondo work on a few nicks
5. cut off rear trailer hitch contraption and trim fenders
6. strongly considering removing rear diamond plate
7. prime and paint

if I just had time, work is getting busy, i have drill this weekend....so cruiser will be in burst as I have time.

The goal is to have it drivable by the end of February......it's all ready been down 3 weeks
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom