Jowett Performance Filter Housing with Fumoto drain valve

[FrazzledHunter]

Without the drain plug being completely on the bottom of the pan, not the side (which it isn't on the bottom), you aren't getting all the oil drained out anyway. From the bottom of the pan to the lip of the threads will still have oil.

Good point.

 

[tominboise]

There's probably a 1/2 QT or more of oil in the engine after the pan is drained, caught in every nook and cranny. Since the refill is 7.2 qts, I don't think the leftover in the bottom of the pan below the drain plug is enough to lose any sleep over.

 

[CharlieS]

I thought it was the same as the socket we use for FAS on the 80, if you didn’t already have one. ????

- Warning -

I am probably wrong, I have drawers & drawers of sockets & such.

@LINUS I don’t think it is. I have one of those from my 80 series phase and it was the wrong size. Same caveat though, I also have drawers full of sockets too.

80 series axle socket on left, BJowett 5.7 liter filter housing socket on right:

 

[joyRidaz]

Looks like the filter housing and oil pan drain valve are currently sold out.

@bjowett any insight into when they will be available again? I assume you’re dealing with the global supply chain issues.. yikes

just got an lx570 so keen to buy all the gear for diy oil changes. Housing, socket, filter ez drain, hose, and oil pan drain…. And/or anything else that recommended.

many way to get on a list for alerts for when it comes available?

 

[bjowett]

Both supply and worker issues...

 

[RT Cruiser]

Looks like the filter housing and oil pan drain valve are currently sold out.

Will this valve clear the bash plate?

 

[JadeMonkey]

Will this valve clear the bash plate?

Yes.

 

[highfructose]

If you’ve got a list for future purchasers, I’d like to be on it.

 

[CHAOTIC]

If you’ve got a list for future purchasers, I’d like to be on it.

Same here if there is a list to get on. I was disappointed to see them out of stock, as I wanted to purchase everything at once, but realize it's a uniquely difficult time for everyone from a supply standpoint.

 

[Mbchance]

I’d be a buyer as well!

 

[NTV]

Did my first oil change on my 2018 200 LC and been waiting to install the jowett housing with ez drain valve as I had ordered it a long time ago. Just about 30k On my rig and previously I had all the other oil changes at the dealer. Purchased the rig with 12k. Of course I had two missing bolts on my factory skids. I am sure one of the dealer oil changes got rushed and left some bolts behind. Thanks to these threads I had preordered some back up skid plate bolts when I ordered my Toyota oil filters. Installed the Jowett housing with no problems except I had ordered the TRD Pro Filters and they DID NOT fit well in the Jowett housing with the metal perforated tube from the factory housing. Swapped the metal perforated tube from factory housing with the spring and did not install the little metal disc. The perforated metal tube installed real well and clicked into place with those little metal tabs up like others have mentioned. Made sure the large O ring was seated properly on the Jowett housing and added a little fresh oil to the o ring. Installed with the housing socket I purchased from B Jowett and it worked great. I tourqed to 18ft lbs and it was nice and tight. I decided not to install the ez drain valve I ordered for the oil pan as I just didn’t think it was as protected as the filter housing (still running factory skids). I will probably just leave the normal oil pan bolt and crush washer until I update my skids and in the meantime just use something to direct the oil out to the pan away from the skid plates. I have a very large oil drain catch pan and didn’t spill a drop although I did remove all the skids so I could clean everything up before I put the skids back on. Just got back from a trip over Medano pass and had lots of sand and fine dirt above the skids. I used valvoline 0W-20 full synthetic and estimate I added about 7.9 to 8 qts and I was right in the middle of the dots on my oil dip stick.

All in all I am very very happy with the Jowett housing and also thankful to everyone on this forum who provided answers to my questions. Included a pic of the TRD oil filter inside the Jowett housing. Anyone have this same issue or am I the only dumb ass who tried the TRD filter vs the normal stock oil filter? I ordered two TRD oil filters and only slightly used the one when I tried to put it on the Jowett housing. If anyone is still running a stock filter housing and would like two TRD oil filters I will ship them for free. Just PM me. If not no big deal may just keep them with the old housing for back up. Thanks all for the help on this! I plan to do every oil change on this thing and plan to run it for a very long long time!

 

[CharlieS]

odd...TRD filters work fine for me in the BJowett housing.

 

[NTV]

odd...TRD filters work fine for me in the BJowett housing.

Does yours sit flush with the top of the metal perforated post when you install or does it sit higher like in my picture. I was worried that it didn’t fit over the metal perforated tube correctly so I abandoned the idea of TRD filter and just ran down to Stevinson Toyota Parts real quick to get the normal non TRD filter. The non TRD filter fit real snug and the top of the metal perforated tube was almost all the at to the top of the. Does the part number of the TRD filter in my picture match what you use Charlie? Maybe I got the wrong ones and didn’t realize. Thanks for the help! I feel like I installed the metal perforated tube correctly. The little metal tabs are up and in the small slots of the Jowett housing. So only way to remove the metal perforated tube would be to push down on it so hose metal tabs go lower in the housing and then turn the tube so hose tabs are in the large slots and it comes right out. Seemed to make sense to me since the perforated I’ve was nice and secure. If anyone has a tip on that or thinks it’s wrong let me know please. Glad I went through the first change pain s next time it’s smooth! Thanks again.

 

[NTV]

Does yours sit flush with the top of the metal perforated post when you install or does it sit higher like in my picture. I was worried that it didn’t fit over the metal perforated tube correctly so I abandoned the idea of TRD filter and just ran down to Stevinson Toyota Parts real quick to get the normal non TRD filter. The non TRD filter fit real snug and the top of the metal perforated tube was almost all the at to the top of the. Does the part number of the TRD filter in my picture match what you use Charlie? Maybe I got the wrong ones and didn’t realize. Thanks for the help! I feel like I installed the metal perforated tube correctly. The little metal tabs are up and in the small slots of the Jowett housing. So only way to remove the metal perforated tube would be to push down on it so hose metal tabs go lower in the housing and then turn the tube so hose tabs are in the large slots and it comes right out. Seemed to make sense to me since the perforated I’ve was nice and secure. If anyone has a tip on that or thinks it’s wrong let me know please. Glad I went through the first change pain s next time it’s smooth! Thanks again.

Should read: *was almost at the top of the non TRD filter.

 

[bemerritt]

add me to the list that we would love to exist.

 

[Mdog97]

30 does seem crazy. I looked that up when installing my valve replacing the plug. I torqued it to 30 per the book but it didn’t “feel” right compared to all other drain plugs I’ve ever installed but then, I’ve never bothered to look up a torque value for one either let alone actually use a torque wrench.

I’ve only ever seen one issue with a drain plug and it was due to a PO apparently over torquing and striping the female threads on the pan.

Per ezdrain's website - TECHNICAL SPECS - https://ezoildrainvalve.com/technical-specs.html - the recommended torque spec for these valves (ez-103 model) is 20 ft-lbs. So yes, 30 would be way too much.

For those with Fumoto valves, it looks like the Toyota LC valve would be one of the F133 versions; their recommended installation torque is 15 ft-lbs here How much should I torque my Fumoto product? - https://help.fumotousa.com/hc/en-us/articles/360004911393-How-much-should-I-torque-my-Fumoto-product-

The crow's foot method is what we tried last week on mine with my torque wrench, but the mechanic who was helping me jumped ahead and started installing it while I was checking out the KDSS valve body after removing that skid. He gave up on the crow's foot after a minute of fiddling and just tightened it by hand/feel with a crescent wrench (I was at a friend's repair shop and had two mechanics helping me, so it wasn't me driving that particular piece of the oil change).

Their (ezdrain's) recommended install technique is:

Hand install the valve until tight, and give 1/8 turn with a small crescent wrench on the body. (DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN!)

 

[CharlieS]

Does yours sit flush with the top of the metal perforated post when you install or does it sit higher like in my picture. I was worried that it didn’t fit over the metal perforated tube correctly so I abandoned the idea of TRD filter and just ran down to Stevinson Toyota Parts real quick to get the normal non TRD filter. The non TRD filter fit real snug and the top of the metal perforated tube was almost all the at to the top of the. Does the part number of the TRD filter in my picture match what you use Charlie? Maybe I got the wrong ones and didn’t realize. Thanks for the help! I feel like I installed the metal perforated tube correctly. The little metal tabs are up and in the small slots of the Jowett housing. So only way to remove the metal perforated tube would be to push down on it so hose metal tabs go lower in the housing and then turn the tube so hose tabs are in the large slots and it comes right out. Seemed to make sense to me since the perforated I’ve was nice and secure. If anyone has a tip on that or thinks it’s wrong let me know please. Glad I went through the first change pain s next time it’s smooth! Thanks again.

Sorry, I don't recall, I just put them in and they work.

Every time I read about your experience with your friend's shop, I can say for certain that those mechanics are NOT the kind of mechanics I'd want working on my 200.

 

[Mdog97]

Every time I read about your experience with your friend's shop, I can say for certain that those mechanics are NOT the kind of mechanics I'd want working on my 200.

I hear you @CharlieS. To be fair, it was supposed to be 100% DIY (not that I trust that idiot, but at least he's conscientious). I didn't go there expecting them to help with the actual work - I was just there to use their lift and their oil catch pan. After the truck was in the air my friend (the owner) went back to whatever he was doing, but the mechanics just jumped in and started immediately removing the skid plates, as if I was an important customer in a hurry. I told them that I was going to do the work myself and that they could take a break, but I'm guessing they felt like they should do the work (for free) given my relationship there.

In their defense, they're good guys with lots of experience (not kids or newbies) who seem to know what they're doing; I know at least one is ASE certified (both I think). Their clientele is locals with old but working cars, and local commercial light trucks - regular maintenance, replacing brakes, fixing broken things, and "my 12 year old Ford/Honda/Hyundai is doing X, what is wrong? How much will it cost to fix?" type of stuff. I wouldn't take an M3 or 911 or race car there, or anything that would ever be going over 100MPH on a regular basis - I'd first try to do it myself, or go to a vetted independent specialist. But for dismounting damaged tires, plugging a puncture, replacing a broken rear air vent, replacing brake rotors and pads on a different leased GLS, I'm happy to give them the business. They do fine as a business, and have a stellar reputation in the area for making things right without ripping people off, but they are not trying to rival the Red Bull F1 crew in terms of precision.

On that point: I've spent plenty of years dealing with "factory trained" service from M-B, BMW and Porsche dealers, service at Japanese motorcycle dealers, trackside service providers (mainly tire mounting and balancing) (both car and bike), as well as working up close with two Porsche (lower end) race teams. I've seen top end work, high precision, real devotion and craftsmanship....and some pretty stupid mistakes...and in some cases, overt corner-cutting. I've seen mechanics at big shops break things and then try to hide it / patch it over, presumably to "move the metal" and get on to the next vehicle within a tight promised pickup time. Even the "high end" dealerships screw things up or have lazy / unscrupulous mechanics...stuff slips through all the time, even with multiple layers of management and "customer service" czars. Even the same dealership can produce dramatically different results from one visit to the next, because...humans.

A big part of the reason to get the Jowett filter body and drain plug setup is to make this kind of regular service easier for me to do in my driveway, without lifts, so that I can keep my 200 away from hamfisted mechanics, whether at a dealership or elsewhere. Some day my wife will let me build my dream race garage with 4 post lifts, plumbed in air lines everywhere, LED lighting, etc....until then I make do.

//Keeping it technical: does anyone know the correct inner diameter tubing to use with the accessory screw-in fitting for these ezdrain plugs? Is it 3/8"?

 

[bjowett]

That is how the TRD oil filters look/fit. They do not rely on the stock filter tube. The orings seal on filter tube/bypass base and way up inside of filter housing.

3/8" for the hose.

 

[CharlieS]