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And all buttoned up.
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This past week I noticed a bit of fluid under the truck! I was like wtf now!? It turns out that the radiator started leaking. Weird because it looks like a relatively new radiator. I did some digging and it looks like an aftermarket unit that was installed at some point. It doesn't have the foam bars nor the toy rad logo on the top. Ofcourse it leaks at the pinch seam between the plastic top and aluminum core. In proper fashion, I ponied up and picked up a factory radiator which arrived today. I am gonna replace it tomorrow.
Here are some pics of the leaky one.
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And some pics of the new one I just got.
Olathe had the best price I could find.
 
It had slight damage from shipping as u can see but nothing that worries me at all.
 
Went ahead and pulled my records and found that in December of 2015 the radiator was replaced with an aftermarket, OSC branded unit. Lasted 5 years apparently and 70k miles.
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Looks like the A/C condenser was also replaced at the time.
At least I am going back to OE now. Hopefully will last a little longer
 
Went ahead and replaced the rad this morning. Found it easiest to unbolt the shroud off the radiator and leave it in place, pushed it back over the fan once I removed the reservoir bottle for the coolant.
I then slid the radiator out. Pretty easy I think. I did remove the battery and the intake to allow myself more room.
This be the old vs the new
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Note that the oil lines are orientated differently on the aftermarket one.
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And here it is done.
 
looks fun! but you can't dig into frozen ground can you ? Attach files
Lol, no...but I have been trying to get a tractor for a while. I finally pulled the trigger. Have a number of projects around the house lined up...provided I have time for them.
 
I replaced the headlight bulbs, both highs and lows as my driver's low had expired. I replaced all 4. I also replaced the antena. I tried to do the mast replacement only but I ended up effing up the unit as a whole, and it had stopped working, so I got a new assembly. Also got brand new fastenrs for the wheel well liners.
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I am due for inspection and my winshield is cracked. Had a suspicion that this would turn into a s*** show. Upon closer Inspection, I realized that the PO had done the windshield replaced before. Low and behold, the holes have been enlarged and the factory rivets will not work. I told safelite to live the moldings off so I can figure this out.
I need some guidance here, what should I do now?
Anyone have any experience? Use bigger rivets perhaps? I like Toyota's because they have a plastic sleeve to prevent metal on metal contact.
Anyone with ideas, please advise.
Thank you.

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I went ahead and got some oversized aluminum rivets in hopes that I can get this sorted. Prepped and cleaned the molding and the vehicle's a pillars. Found a bit of rust around the holes and such but used a dremel to get that cleaned up.
Put down some self etching primer and then touch up after that.

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I had cleaned the moldings real well and prepped them as best I could. The holes were not level with the surface and had to do some adjusting. These had been mounted previously with butyl. Sigh...

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After prepping I got ready for the install. Bought two kinds of rivets, long and shorts, in aluminum 3/16" dia. Largest I found. My riveting gun needed some grinding to get it to fit in the groove...

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Proceeded to rivet the molding in place. Forgot to mention that I used some 3m double sided tape for the top portion that gets attached into the Grove at the roof rack.

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What I am taking away from this is that Safelite was defensive and refused to take responsability for installing the moldings. Can't blame them for that. The prior job was s***tly put together. I told them to leave the moldings off but....I asked them to use spacers on the windshield and they did not. Sad, as the moldings do not meet the glass snuggly. There is a gap and I am not happy. I made sure to tell them to use spacers on the windshield when mounting and they did not.

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Now, for the worst part of this, the drivers side is not snug at all. The rivets are not fat enough, and I will have to remove them and figure out something else. My idea is an even fatter rivet and grinding the head on two sides to allow it to fit in the channel...
I was thinking to use the double sided tape to glue the moldings along side the a pillar but had reservations about that.
I am looking for suggestions.
On another note, I broke one of the roof rack leg covers. Pffftttt

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Need a roof rack front right leg cover if anyone has a spare for sale. Brand new they are too damn expensive!
 

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