Joining the head gasket club.... (1 Viewer)

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Jul 7, 2005
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Looks like my head gasket went yesterday. Checked the rad and was low on coolant, checked the dipstick, and there was too much fluid. Checked the oil cap, and have some of the milkshake. Hopefully that means i caught it early enough to avoid grenading the engine. It didnt overheat (was watching the actron)

Darin's booked out for a while, so I'm looking for alternatives in the area. Ive sent IdahoDoug a pm about the head gasket dvd. If I tore into it, it would be the first motor work I've done in at least 25 years. I assume the head should go to a shop to see if its warped, and maybe get a valve/seats job? Any machine shop rec's?

Anyone know of a reputable individual or shop near Greensboro that could do the head gasket and throttle body? Started throwin a po401, so I know the tb is gunked up, and probably vsv/egr. The vsv and egr would be last on my list of repairs, but figure since the tb would be off, it would be prime time to clean it.

Should I get a couple gallons of oil, drain the oil and radiator, and try to run the engine for a min to circulate the oil without antifreeze in the system? I've got to go out of town for work this weekend, so the truck is going to sit.

Input would be greatly appreciated.

Steve
 

cboyd

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ping @ontherxs and @GLTHFJ60 as they had a engine 2F grenade and ultimately did a 2H swap... but they talked to a ton of engine folks in Raleigh and surrounding about looking at the head and Cyclinders on the 2F before the ToD was called.
 

krzyabncanuck

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Def while the head is off have all the work you can done to it. It will be better in the long run. trust me on that.Also check the top of the block with a long straight ruler. I have Dougs video here somewhere if you want to try and tackle it.
 
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I'd say do it yourself.... you will feel better after..... aswell as your wallet. ;)



But yes have a machine shop look at the head after you pull it
 

roadstr6

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I would either leave it alone or drain the oil and just let it drain overnight. Glycol won't hurt anything as long as the engine is not running...or at least it will take a really long time to. Don't try to flush it. Wait until you fix the problem and then do a flush. My .02.


...via IH8MUD app
 
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yeah, i drained the coolant (rad and block), and dumped a couple jugs of dino oil (10-30 and 20-50) in it. Started it and ran it for a minute or two to circulate. no unusual noises, ticking, etc. Had to go out of town for work, so I'll deal wit it when i get home.


Here's what I'm thinking so far once the head comes off and it goes to the machine shop.

PHH Bypass and all new Gates green stripe rubber on the heating system.

New vaccuum lines around intake and top of motor (had already swapped most of that).

Clean the intake. Would shadetree porting/polishing make any difference on the intake?

Fuel Filter

Spark Plugs.

Plug wires, cap and rotor are less than 12 months old, so they will be fine.
 

jfz80

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I have used Ronnie mobly? At r and b machine in High point on English I believe for 2f workin the past. Also concretejungle also used them for some 1fz rebuild work.

As well dr. Bo's engine repair/machine in downtown Greensboro gets great reviews and I've used for some work.

There is one more guy off wendover that was recommended to me but was sloooooooow. Had lots of BMW i6 and diesels in house. Ill look for his contact.

If you opt for someone to do it all for you I would call roger at websters automotive.

Best of luck
 
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I hope I'm not highjacking this thread and I can start a new thread if needed. I had meant to go to the last meeting and join the club, but quite a few problems have popped up that have been keeping me busy. I think my HG may have gone too (93 FZJ 80 with 97 LX engine). I've only had it a short time and knew it was abused. Last week it had a PHH leak and a #1 bypass hose leak. The PHH was bypassed with good hose, but was held on by a cheap worm clamp, so I replaced it with a constant tension clamp. I repaired the #1 bypass hose. I added coolant and burped the system on a level surface (should have been nose up). It was low on power and missing, but not to the point of dying. I had added coolant up to the full line and the coolant level rose about 2-3 above the line and stayed there cold or hot. I burped the system on Friday before I went out of town and there was a lot of air coming out. Test drove yesterday when I got home and heat blew cold air and temp went up heading toward red, parked let it cool down, head home and heat comes back and temp levels slightly above center. Check this morning and overflow tank is empty (which was different than usual), topped off and start to drive to work. Temp starts climbing, I turn on heaters with cool air coming out. Head back home to park it and take my wife's car to work.

I'm confused as to whether the problem is air in the system or a HG failure (or the air a result of HG). It seems strange that the rough idle happened right after pulling the block end of the PHH hose. There is no visible milkshake on dip stick or under the oil cap. I had the idle revved up to 3500 RPM for a short while and no visible bubbling. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, water pump, radiator, radiator hoses all new Toyota within the last 45 days. I guess I need to do a test to see if it's the HG. Sorry for the long post.
 

krzyabncanuck

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Burp again with front end raised higher than the rest of the truck. You want the opening of the radiator higher than the rest of the system.
 
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I burped it again when I got home with the front end in the air. Quite a bit of air in the system. I took it for a 6 mile drive and the heat was working well and the temperature gauge with the heat off stayed in the middle the entire time. I'll check the coolant level and see how it does on my busy commute to Raleigh tomorrow.
 
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Dont worry about hijacking. Its all good info. When I did a coolant flush back in July, I made sure i had the front end up in the air. I also added the 50/50 mix at the top of the engine where the heater hoses branch off to the back of the truck (at the hard/soft line junction right near cyl 5/6. I fed coolant in both directions, and kept feeding it in until it wouldnt accept any more (it started to fill the radiator at that point). I also fed some in at the upper rad hose toward the block. I then topped off the rad, and started the truck with the cap off. Both heaters on high, and would squeeze the hoses trying to burp air out. Eventually i got a small burp out. I topped off the puke tank, and drove around. I would turn side to side hard, stop hard, anything i could do to try to get any additional air out of the system. I absorbed about 1/2 of the tank on the drive. I watched my code reader to see if i got a temp spike. i was steady at 190-194, tops. I did a 2500 mile drive to Wisconsin in july/aug, and watched the code reader on most of the trip. Never ran hot, and didnt drink any coolant. So I was very fortunate that it started failing at home, and that it wasnt pouring out the tailpipe.

Friday I only had a about a tablespoon of milkshake on the oil cap, but i could tell i had some coolant in the oil when i drained it. The milkshake was amount was more than just condensation from a short drive. My oil was still "normal" looking, but it had cooled overnight. My concern was that it had raised the level of fluid in the oil side of the system. So ive got an opening somewhere. I'm hoping its the head gasket, compared to a warped head, warped block, or a hole somewhere... I guess I'll see when i start tearing into it.
 
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Well it looks like my problem was air in the system, but I'll keep an eye on it. I may only be able to add labor and some tools (not expertise), but steve (or anyone else) if you're in the Raleigh area (have relatives in Greensboro too) and need help breaking down or putting together you're head gasket let me know, I'd be willing to help to get the experience.

Mike
 
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I appreciate the offer Mike. Before I start tearing it down, im going to look for the easy stuff. I'm going to pull the spark plugs and look for any steam cleaning, refill the rad and look for any leaks around under the hood with a blacklight

Hopefully mine wont be as bad as i thought.
 

ontherxs

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I have a 2F head in good shape if you need it. Also check out my build thread there is info on a machine shop in downtown Raleigh. Good ole boys that quoted be about $800 for the whole pretty much a whole rebuild.
 
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Cool, Thanks. Hopefully I wont need them. LOL

I pulled my spark plugs today, and didnt see any evidence of steam cleaning or anything out of the ordinary. All 6 looked pretty much identical, and with 25k on them, had the "typical/normal" crud on them from usage. Ordered a set of plugs and new plug wires, should be here tomorrow.

Today, i picked up a compression tester and coolant system pressure tester from a buddy, 6 ft of gates yellow stripe (napa branded gates green stripe), some constant torque clamps. Going to bypass PHH, and replace all of the short hose lengths on the heater system. I think I may have found a small leak in a piece of cheap hose and clamp i put in between the heater plumbing and the hard line that comes up from the thermostat housing.

I'll do the compression check, and if all cyls are within spec, i'll do the hose work, refill the system, and pressure test it looking for any leaks. If that comes out ok, I'll start it up, get it warm, burp the system, and do the overflow test to look for bubbles. If no bubbles, I'll drive it a bit and check the levels afterwards.
 

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