Jack and stands recommendation for 100 series (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LowDrag82
- Start date
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Today 90% of ratcheting jack-stand have locks. The only one I see without, are old stock someone trying to unload.
You be surprised at how many people to lazy to insert the lock pin. They're not idiot proof!
You be surprised at how many people to lazy to insert the lock pin. They're not idiot proof!
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this one is better
3 Ton Off-Road Jack
Amazing deals on this 3 Ton Off-Road Jack at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
I can't stress enough, how much care must be used. When jacking up any vehicle. It becomes even riskier, when any extensions used on the jack, to increase max lift. Extension tubes exponentially increase risk, with each inch of additional length. The lateral force increase as we lift. The higher we lift, the more lateral force. The floor jack needs roll/slide freely, to compensate for this lateral force.
As stated earlier. I added a 911 motor sport extension kit, to my Daytona 3 ton, long-reach, low-profile floor jack. With the 911 kit, comes a base pin. The pin, allows swapping in different saddles and extension tubes. The extension tubes, is sketchy to say the least. They're for special situation, when I need extra lift. They're not for daily use.
The Dayton long reach low profile has a 3 1/2" floor to top of saddle (low) clearance. With a maximum lift of 24 1/4" in stock configuration.
Adding the 911 pin with 8"x10" saddle with tire tread: Yielded ~2 1/2" addition to jack (5 1/2" min clearance, 26 3/4" max lift)
The pad (chunk of tire tread), I added to the 8"x10" saddle. I cut from old unused tire. The rubber looked in excellent condition & crack free. I used contact cement between rubber and metal of saddle, pressing together overnight. Then secured with 3/8" x1"elevator grade 8 bolts at four corners, while still pressed together.
I use this pad under main forward crossmember, when #1 skid removed. It spread the load, nicely and is slip resistant.
Placement of 12 ton jack-stand, max them out. On frame in front of vehicle forward of wheel well, and at rear aft of rear wheel well.
As stated earlier. I added a 911 motor sport extension kit, to my Daytona 3 ton, long-reach, low-profile floor jack. With the 911 kit, comes a base pin. The pin, allows swapping in different saddles and extension tubes. The extension tubes, is sketchy to say the least. They're for special situation, when I need extra lift. They're not for daily use.
The Dayton long reach low profile has a 3 1/2" floor to top of saddle (low) clearance. With a maximum lift of 24 1/4" in stock configuration.
Adding the 911 pin with 8"x10" saddle with tire tread: Yielded ~2 1/2" addition to jack (5 1/2" min clearance, 26 3/4" max lift)
The pad (chunk of tire tread), I added to the 8"x10" saddle. I cut from old unused tire. The rubber looked in excellent condition & crack free. I used contact cement between rubber and metal of saddle, pressing together overnight. Then secured with 3/8" x1"elevator grade 8 bolts at four corners, while still pressed together.
I use this pad under main forward crossmember, when #1 skid removed. It spread the load, nicely and is slip resistant.
Placement of 12 ton jack-stand, max them out. On frame in front of vehicle forward of wheel well, and at rear aft of rear wheel well.
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Here's where it gets sketchy. Floor jack rolled, by lateral force created while jacking up. Which is what we want. The tire tread padded saddle, held frim. While I tested 6" and then with 11"extension tubes.
You can see lateral force effect (gap one side) as I lifted, at base where extension tube seats on pin. Floor jack did roll, as it should.
I would like to have a larger diameter bas pin and thicker walled extension tubes. I'm am supper carful, using these extension.
I only use a max of 9" extension. This is to get enough height for my 12" of Race Ramps to slide under the tires. I've only one purpose for this set-up. That when torqueing in LCA bushing bolts.
No lateral force, no gap comparison.
6" extension with large tire pad saddle. Gets me 31" of lift.
11" extension tube, get me 32" lift.
OH s***! 6" stacked on and 11" extension tubes. More than I need or willing to ever try.....
You can see lateral force effect (gap one side) as I lifted, at base where extension tube seats on pin. Floor jack did roll, as it should.
I would like to have a larger diameter bas pin and thicker walled extension tubes. I'm am supper carful, using these extension.
I only use a max of 9" extension. This is to get enough height for my 12" of Race Ramps to slide under the tires. I've only one purpose for this set-up. That when torqueing in LCA bushing bolts.
No lateral force, no gap comparison.
6" extension with large tire pad saddle. Gets me 31" of lift.
11" extension tube, get me 32" lift.
OH s***! 6" stacked on and 11" extension tubes. More than I need or willing to ever try.....
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- Thread starter
- #28
I was looking at that one, do the large wheels increase safety issues with it slipping out from under the vehicle easier or am I just making that up in my head?this one is better
3 Ton Off-Road Jack
Amazing deals on this 3 Ton Off-Road Jack at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
- Thread starter
- #29
I’m getting the 6T Daytona w pins. I figured that should be enough.
Ive had a couple of these for about ten years now. Highly recommend. Jack and stand in one.
Amazon product ASIN B003ULZGFU
I still have a small 2T hydraulic jack I use for manipulating suspension ect but these get 95% of jacking done.
Amazon product ASIN B003ULZGFU
I still have a small 2T hydraulic jack I use for manipulating suspension ect but these get 95% of jacking done.
I'll cheap out on some things, but not on jacks and *especially* not stands. I am lucky to have an old SnapOn YA700 that I picked up in 2010 and rebuilt; I also have a 2-ton Hein Werner that, while very solid (it's basically the same Lincoln-designed jack as the YA700) doesn't quite get tall enough for lifting the Hundy in a few spots.
The US-made jack stands posted above would be my first choice in either 6-ton or 10-ton spec if I were shopping for quality. As for what I use, these 22-ton stands are available at Harbor Freight; I have four of the OTC version that look the same (painted different color) and use them on everything from my wife's Subaru to my 335i to my LX470.
If you hang out in garage forums for long enough you'll hear all kinds of horror stories about people who have been crushed to death under vehicles, and people who got very lucky by not being under their car when the stands/jack failed. Please don't wind up being one of those people.
The US-made jack stands posted above would be my first choice in either 6-ton or 10-ton spec if I were shopping for quality. As for what I use, these 22-ton stands are available at Harbor Freight; I have four of the OTC version that look the same (painted different color) and use them on everything from my wife's Subaru to my 335i to my LX470.
If you hang out in garage forums for long enough you'll hear all kinds of horror stories about people who have been crushed to death under vehicles, and people who got very lucky by not being under their car when the stands/jack failed. Please don't wind up being one of those people.
hoser
SILVER Star
Thought this "jack stand" was interesting.... not ideal but maybe good for off-road use since most people don't bring jack stands when they wheel. But most people also don't bring floor jacks. 
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks, I’m trying not to die. So you’d recommend against the HF 6T Daytona stands with second pin and the badland jack? What about the 4T Daytona or the 3T Daytona super duty? I don’t want to buy anything unsafe but I also can’t justify an insane amount of money based on how often I’m going to use this stuff. Cost comparison between buying a $1000 worth of jack and stands when a wheel rotation at the local shop is $40… hard to justify on my end at least.
Most of the stuff I would want to do beyond that is just lifting up one corner at a time, other stuff I can handle without raising the truck because I’m smol lol and can fit under easy.
Someone in mud listed, weight carried by/at each wheel. Which each is less than 1,500 LB at each. So, 3 ton jack or jack stands are adequate.
3-ton (6,000LB) = 3,000LB load rating pre each stand.
6 ton. Has wider base (more stable) and great max height.
12 ton, is overkill. But yields the most stability and max height.
Support position, (squares) take a very tall jack stand (12 ton). I actually only use those points, in specially situations.
My daily use of 6 ton stands, is where you see the "circle" lift point on frame.
My very old little "reds". I use under rear differential, while weight of vehicle held-up with 6 & 12 ton jack stands.
3-ton (6,000LB) = 3,000LB load rating pre each stand.
6 ton. Has wider base (more stable) and great max height.
12 ton, is overkill. But yields the most stability and max height.
Support position, (squares) take a very tall jack stand (12 ton). I actually only use those points, in specially situations.
My daily use of 6 ton stands, is where you see the "circle" lift point on frame.
My very old little "reds". I use under rear differential, while weight of vehicle held-up with 6 & 12 ton jack stands.
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Hey man, I didn't recognize that you were the OP, ha! I tend to give my SAFETY FIRST speech when I bring up vehicle lifting, but I agree with you on all points: there's definitely an "overkill" point where there's no need to spend additional money for capacity that isn't necessary. Those HF 6T stands look totally fine to me, and their max height is almost 24" which seems appropriate for the job. Also the Daytona 3T Super Duty lifts to 24" and weighs a hundred pounds, which also looks good.
Just to be clear, jack stands are typically rated for the weight that the PAIR can hold safely (as you indicate). During the process of jacking a vehicle, a stand may see much more than a quarter of the vehicle's weight before the other jack stands are positioned and the vehicle is level.
hoser
SILVER Star
I have some old jack stands. The standard of rating jack stands per pair wasn't until 2015. Before that, the manufacture might rate individually or by pair. Obviously, erring on the side of caution the best practice if you don't know for sure.
I've got some Big Red Torin jacks that work well: Amazon product ASIN B00026Z3DQ
Good points. But not so much during setup. But more so when working on. Which is only time I'm "really" concerned. I can get to really pulling and pound on rigs, when under them.
By the way I modified my jack pads, some more.
3x4" pad with tire tread mounted on. For lifting, with #1 skid on.
8x10" Large pad, for lifting #1 skid off.
Spooky high jack Extension, I cut down to 8.5" from 11". Only for few times, I lift to place 12" RaceRamps under tires. Which RaceRamps are rated at 1,500LB each wheel.
