J60 Glove Box Replacement
- Thread starter mr2m1
- Start date
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The louvers and 3pc wheels are just chefs kiss.
Im tellin yall. The adhesive backed led strip is the move. Im installing mine now. Ill post up a pic
I think the tabs on my dash were a little bent or something but it all went in fine.
Here’s the neoprene and stick on light strip. I drilled a hole in the side and put a grommet on it to run the wire through. I use the large hole for my AV wires for my head unit. The neoprene doesn’t look like super great or anything, but it deadens the sound of the glove box like crazy. I lined the entire back and bottom and put small strips on the side
Installed. You have to get pretty low to see the light strip on the top. You’d never see it unless you hunched over and looked.
Light on.
This is from underneath so you can see the light strip
The old glove box this one replaced. The entire top was being held on by the striker
Here’s the neoprene and stick on light strip. I drilled a hole in the side and put a grommet on it to run the wire through. I use the large hole for my AV wires for my head unit. The neoprene doesn’t look like super great or anything, but it deadens the sound of the glove box like crazy. I lined the entire back and bottom and put small strips on the side
Installed. You have to get pretty low to see the light strip on the top. You’d never see it unless you hunched over and looked.
Light on.
This is from underneath so you can see the light strip
The old glove box this one replaced. The entire top was being held on by the striker
I'm having some trouble getting the box to close: Striker issue. I'm thinking I may have to cut the spot welds at the top seam of the box so it can be pulled up a little more, as it seems the height is a bit too little. I've cinched up those striker screws as tight as they'll go...
I've tried with the Glove door both over and under the box lip.
I don't think the knob position is adjustable ?
I've tried with the Glove door both over and under the box lip.
I don't think the knob position is adjustable ?
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Well, Jason (@mr2m1) generously offered to replace or refund my Glove Box insert, but since I don't have a show rig, I was gonna make this one work. Some grinding on the seam tack welds worked fine to allow the top of the insert to 'lift' a fraction more. Not pretty (since painted), but works fine and cuts disappear when installed. Striker was still slightly hitting the bottom of the lock, so had to place the door hinge UNDER the insert flange and that seems to have solved it.
My guess is the original cardboard insert allowed for much greater tolerances in that opening.
My humble suggestion might be to design in some 'adjustability' in future runs, if possible? Anyway, this is a heavy duty insert. I actually think the sheet steel could be one-gauge thinner without sacrificing anything, and perhaps, even, facilitate install if some 'adjustments' are required.
Insert currently is being painted and will show when dry and reinstalled.
Cheers for another great solution !
My guess is the original cardboard insert allowed for much greater tolerances in that opening.
My humble suggestion might be to design in some 'adjustability' in future runs, if possible? Anyway, this is a heavy duty insert. I actually think the sheet steel could be one-gauge thinner without sacrificing anything, and perhaps, even, facilitate install if some 'adjustments' are required.
Insert currently is being painted and will show when dry and reinstalled.
Cheers for another great solution !
Good point on the material thickness.
Dekeman
SILVER Star
I had the same issue but just added a washer to the latch to bring it in line. Can't remember if I used the same bolts to reattach or new, longer JIS ones.
EDIT: sorry, You need to go up, not down like I had to. If I recall the knob was a bit adjustable? And I had some flexibility with the box itself.
EDIT: sorry, You need to go up, not down like I had to. If I recall the knob was a bit adjustable? And I had some flexibility with the box itself.
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Dekeman
SILVER Star
Box adjustability....
@Dekeman @Spike Strip FWIW I had to align the insert as high as it would go to align the latch & catch. I pushed up on the “roof” of the insert while screwing in the latch piece. Maybe with a little reconnoitering it’ll work for you Spike.
It fits fine, now. Insert is removed at the moment for drilling a couple holes for a USB charger Port and for LED wires and then paint and some tool box liner.
I have a Tuffy center console, so just plan to use the glove box as a charging station for headlamp, tablet, etc.
mr2m1
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #114
Thank you to everyone for their feedback. I am taking these suggestions seriously and making some changes to the design.
Moving forward to hopefully prevent the issue @Spike Strip is having I plan on making the following changes.
For those who are interested in an LED option I have tested some of the samples I ordered.
Here is the stock light for comparison.
Sample 1: This is the light that will mechanically fasten. (I like this one but its kind of bulky)
Sample 2: This one is a projector style that attaches with 3M tape.
Sample 2: Here is the projector style again mounted to the top.
Sample 3: Last one is a small strip LED that usees tape to attach it.
I personally am leaning towards one that is bolted to the top or sides. I'm sure this will probably generate some opinions about which one is better. Maybe I offer a bolted one or sticky one when ordering?
Moving forward to hopefully prevent the issue @Spike Strip is having I plan on making the following changes.
- Add to the height of the glove box. Although I'm concerned that the opening where the glove box goes may vary from vehicle to vehicle much like the width of the opening. So when ordering I may ask for that dimension as well as the width, again these will be custom made to order for now.
- Change the top tab from 3/4" to 1/2" to allow for the glove to be adjust upwards if needed.
I will definitely try the thinner gauge material after I use up the 18ga I have here. My only concern about bending the flanges for adjustments would be the possibility of the powder coating cracking or chipping off while bending the flanges into position. I will have to test it here.
For those who are interested in an LED option I have tested some of the samples I ordered.
Here is the stock light for comparison.
Sample 1: This is the light that will mechanically fasten. (I like this one but its kind of bulky)
Sample 2: This one is a projector style that attaches with 3M tape.
Sample 2: Here is the projector style again mounted to the top.
Sample 3: Last one is a small strip LED that usees tape to attach it.
I personally am leaning towards one that is bolted to the top or sides. I'm sure this will probably generate some opinions about which one is better. Maybe I offer a bolted one or sticky one when ordering?
Just a follow up for a great product.
I used a 'KC Cyclone' light since I happened to have one. I added a 'Flush-Mount' USB charger that I tapped into the always-on power that would normally go to the trouble light plug. I added an in-line 5 amp fuse there just for safety. I have a Tuffy center console, so most of the stuff goes in there, but wanted to have a spot that's out of the way to keep a flashlight charged or other portable electronics. Will add some toolbox liner, too.
One small FYI for people planning on similar mods: I didn't account for the tight fit on the sides, and I had the wires for the USB charger and light coming out the sides and it made for a difficult install. Wires out the back, bottom, or top would have been much easier.
* Sh!t* Just realized that USB charger has a LED back light which will always be on. Yes, very small parasitic draw, but I don't drive the truck much, so now will have to install a small on/off button in the NEG lead. Oh well, it's always somethin'.
Cheers!
I used a 'KC Cyclone' light since I happened to have one. I added a 'Flush-Mount' USB charger that I tapped into the always-on power that would normally go to the trouble light plug. I added an in-line 5 amp fuse there just for safety. I have a Tuffy center console, so most of the stuff goes in there, but wanted to have a spot that's out of the way to keep a flashlight charged or other portable electronics. Will add some toolbox liner, too.
One small FYI for people planning on similar mods: I didn't account for the tight fit on the sides, and I had the wires for the USB charger and light coming out the sides and it made for a difficult install. Wires out the back, bottom, or top would have been much easier.
* Sh!t* Just realized that USB charger has a LED back light which will always be on. Yes, very small parasitic draw, but I don't drive the truck much, so now will have to install a small on/off button in the NEG lead. Oh well, it's always somethin'.
Cheers!
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mr2m1
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #119
Update: After @Spike Strip had issues with the latch I redesigned the top of the glove to allow for the latch strike to mount independently from the glove box. The small cut out allows for the door latch to contact the strike in its original position. Installation of the strike is easy.
If anyone is still interested in ordering one of these I will post ordering info on the first post of this thread.
If anyone is still interested in ordering one of these I will post ordering info on the first post of this thread.
That's perfection!
