J2Hundy Valley Plate Leak Guard Seal

[J2HundyOutfitters]

So I dug into this this weekend. After taking off the valley plate cover I think I definitely had a leak at the front. The crystallized coolant was dried up the side of the heat exchanger. Pretty sure that could only happen with a leak rather than spill.

I installed the J2Hundy gasket with not sealant. I believe this is what @Taco2Cruiser said he did, unless I completely misunderstood.

I went to put coolant in today and it did not even come close to holding coolant. To the point that I feel like I must have done something wrong. Is there some trick to lining up the cover so that it sits closer or something? I followed the cross bolting from the inside out as well as torqued in 2 stages to 18ft-lbs. I have a digital torque gauge adapter for this type of work. It seems like it’s reasonably accurate, but I guess I don’t know for sure.

Here was my prep for the install.
View attachment 3862504View attachment 3862505
And then the gasket install:
Once I put the cover on I used a centering punch to make sure the holes in the gasket lined up with the bolt holes as closely as possible.

View attachment 3862506

And then the aftermath.

View attachment 3862507

I think @

So I dug into this this weekend. After taking off the valley plate cover I think I definitely had a leak at the front. The crystallized coolant was dried up the side of the heat exchanger. Pretty sure that could only happen with a leak rather than spill.

I installed the J2Hundy gasket with not sealant. I believe this is what @Taco2Cruiser said he did, unless I completely misunderstood.

I went to put coolant in today and it did not even come close to holding coolant. To the point that I feel like I must have done something wrong. Is there some trick to lining up the cover so that it sits closer or something? I followed the cross bolting from the inside out as well as torqued in 2 stages to 18ft-lbs. I have a digital torque gauge adapter for this type of work. It seems like it’s reasonably accurate, but I guess I don’t know for sure.

Here was my prep for the install.
View attachment 3862504View attachment 3862505
And then the gasket install:
Once I put the cover on I used a centering punch to make sure the holes in the gasket lined up with the bolt holes as closely as possible.

View attachment 3862506

And then the aftermath.

View attachment 3862507

Taco2Cruiser is part of the rare and highly exceptional mechanics who have a great deal of time with this platform and this leak. It takes considerable attention to detail to micromanage a 4mm wide sealing surface using our gasket without rtv. He definitely has his process down but for those of you taking this fix on yourselves, it’s best to follow the instructions that come with the gasket as the use of rtv really helps to hold the gasket where you land it on the 4mm wide sealing surface. I am going to send you another one free of charge as I understand this must be frustrating. Please, please feel free to reach out via phone and let’s have a chat about your project as I really want to help folks.

On another note, we are currently seeing shipments getting hung up for 4-5 days in a random location for no good explainable reason recently. If you order and pay for 3-4 days shipping it might not happen in that time allotment.

Secondly, lx200inAR brought a great point about our packaging. It’s s***. I know it, but we are just waiting on our custom packaging to arrive still that will fix this. I promise. I’ve attached photos for transparency from lx200inAR who I appreciate his feedback and he was very respectful. I’ll always help folks out when I can.

My wife’s fix with this white paper envelope until we receive our packaging:

 

[lx200inAR]

Just following up on this. The J2Hundy gasket worked as expected once I used a proper torque wrench for the job. This was user error on my part. I used a torque wrench that was not accurate in the 15 ft lb range and caused me to over torque the bolts holding the plate on. I suspect I was hitting closer to 25 ft lbs instead of the 15-17 I was shooting for.

@J2HundyOutfitters was great to work with and sent me a 2nd gasket after I tore the first one removing the cover.

Count me as one of the test subjects for the longevity of this gasket. If it works, it’s way cooler than trying to use the 1282B and cheaper.

The main reason I wanted to try the gasket was to avoid using the 1282B. The 3 minute set time is daunting as well as trying not to make a mess of it. If it lasts longer that’s just icing on the cake.

 

[gasman4u]

Just following up on this. The J2Hundy gasket worked as expected once I used a proper torque wrench for the job. This was user error on my part. I used a torque wrench that was not accurate in the 15 ft lb range and caused me to over torque the bolts holding the plate on. I suspect I was hitting closer to 25 ft lbs instead of the 15-17 I was shooting for.

@J2HundyOutfitters was great to work with and sent me a 2nd gasket after I tore the first one removing the cover.

Count me as one of the test subjects for the longevity of this gasket. If it works, it’s way cooler than trying to use the 1282B and cheaper.

The main reason I wanted to try the gasket was to avoid using the 1282B. The 3 minute set time is daunting as well as trying not to make a mess of it. If it lasts longer that’s just icing on the cake.

Solid root cause analysis @lx200inAR. @J2HundyOutfitters well played on standing behind your product and following up when it didn’t go as planned. It’s reassuring to know good businesses are still around!

In case people don’t know - mechanical torque wrenches appropriately calibrated are most accurate towards the middle of their range. This means a 25-250 lb ft torque wrench is going to be most accurate at around 112 lb ft of torque. It’s not parabolic going away from this, but you don’t want to use this torque wrench for something calling for 26 lb ft of torque if possible. Sometimes torque wrenches in the in lb scale of torque can be used for delicate applications after a quick google search for equivalent settings. Sometimes small deviations in bolt “tightness” (torque) can have outsized adverse effects.

 

[lx200inAR]

Solid root cause analysis @lx200inAR. @J2HundyOutfitters well played on standing behind your product and following up when it didn’t go as planned. It’s reassuring to know good businesses are still around!

In case people don’t know - mechanical torque wrenches appropriately calibrated are most accurate towards the middle of their range. This means a 25-250 lb ft torque wrench is going to be most accurate at around 112 lb ft of torque. It’s not parabolic going away from this, but you don’t want to use this torque wrench for something calling for 26 lb ft of torque if possible. Sometimes torque wrenches in the in lb scale of torque can be used for delicate applications after a quick google search for equivalent settings. Sometimes small deviations in bolt “tightness” (torque) can have outsized adverse effects.

This is what I did. Switched from a 10-100 ft lb wrench to a 20-250 inch lb wrench. My own fault for not using the inch pound wrench in the first place.

 

[gasman4u]

This is what I did. Switched from a 10-100 ft lb wrench to a 20-250 inch lb wrench. My own fault for not using the inch pound wrench in the first place.

A big part of my life is about continuous self improvement. I’ve been there. A LOT.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

A big part of my life is about continuous self improvement. I’ve been there. A LOT.

Kaizen, the Toyoda way.

 

[wknd wrlrd]

I have been procrastinating starting a build thread, but I just acquired a 2009 LX570 with 180k miles, I changed the oil and filter the weekend after I bought it and upgraded to the metal filter housing; the maintenance records past 150k were spotty so I didn't assume fresh oil. During oil change, I noticed the coolant was slightly low so I topped it off. Now we're approaching 184k miles and I noticed the other day that I had lost some coolant. Water temps were normal even on a 2hr drive per ScanGauge II.. even with pretty low coolant. Topped it off and took to the forum, inspected my valley plate and confirmed a very small amount of dried coolant...

I'm not sure who I got the recommendation from, but I ordered the J2hundy kit with intake and water pipe seals as well. I plan on doing the repair myself, and will likely be installing the delete kit for the secondary air injection system. (I ordered it when I got codes that locked me out of 4L, froze AHC and VSC; but a buddy cleared them and they haven't come back, all systems function normally for now). I'm also installing a new PCV, and will likely do the coolant T's.

Based on a couple internet searches, I believe the radiator has already been replaced with the new design. I also recently replaced a totally seized AC compressor, completely worn belt tensioner, belt and idler pulley.

My question is this: what else should I look at digging into while I'm this far into the top side of the engine? Should I do the water pump and PM?? Hoses? Starter? Etc.? Spark plugs?


Thanks in advance! Any updates on kits that have been installed would be awesome!

 

[2001LC]

I have been procrastinating starting a build thread, but I just acquired a 2009 LX570 with 180k miles, I changed the oil and filter the weekend after I bought it and upgraded to the metal filter housing; the maintenance records past 150k were spotty so I didn't assume fresh oil. During oil change, I noticed the coolant was slightly low so I topped it off. Now we're approaching 184k miles and I noticed the other day that I had lost some coolant. Water temps were normal even on a 2hr drive per ScanGauge II.. even with pretty low coolant. Topped it off and took to the forum, inspected my valley plate and confirmed a very small amount of dried coolant...

I'm not sure who I got the recommendation from, but I ordered the J2hundy kit with intake and water pipe seals as well.

I replace water pipe also, not just its o-rings. Along with PCV valve, R&R the grommets front and rear.

Coolant flush good idea, so start by draining block & rad. Also the thermoset and rad cap, if not yet done. As always, I start job be washing top of engine and or using air gun to remove sand (dust) and washing rad fins.

I plan on doing the repair myself, and will likely be installing the delete kit for the secondary air injection system.

So this is an off road use only vehicle?

If not just remove filter from SAI pump and install 1" replicable filter on outside. That way you stay federally legal and not have block off related issues that some kit result in.

(I ordered it when I got codes that locked me out of 4L, froze AHC and VSC; but a buddy cleared them and they haven't come back, all systems function normally for now). I'm also installing a new PCV, and will likely do the coolant T's.

Based on a couple internet searches, I believe the radiator has already been replaced with the new design. I also recently replaced a totally seized AC compressor, completely worn belt tensioner, belt and idler pulley.

My question is this: what else should I look at digging into while I'm this far into the top side of the engine? Should I do the water pump and PM?? Hoses? Starter? Etc.? Spark plugs?

If over 120K miles, I'd replace spark plugs & water pump. Make sure to check condition of fan clutch, fan belt, fan backet and it pulleys and Tensioner.

Thanks in advance! Any updates on kits that have been installed would be awesome!

 

[LC CT]

Any more info/updates on this kit? I’m going to be digging into this in the next month or so, debating this vs Toyota timed goo.