Builds Isuzu 4HE1TC into FJ62

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

4HE1

There appear to be a lot of these engines out there running, but it also seems
to me that there is more than usual head gasket issues, resulting in a seized
piston. In my case it broke the block under the sleeve. The coolant leaking was
not the result of a cracked head, so I'd recommend for what it's worth, to freshen any engine that was not just overhauled, before putting it in. These failures could be caused by improper warm-up or running it too hard when cold....just my .02
 
There appear to be a lot of these engines out there running, but it also seems
to me that there is more than usual head gasket issues, resulting in a seized
piston. In my case it broke the block under the sleeve. The coolant leaking was
not the result of a cracked head, so I'd recommend for what it's worth, to freshen any engine that was not just overhauled, before putting it in. These failures could be caused by improper warm-up or running it too hard when cold....just my .02

In my mind, this engine is somewhat of an unknown. There are a lot of them out there that seem to do fine but I've also seen some with rods sticking out of the side of the block. I've also heard that they had some bottom end bearing problems. In spite of these potential issues, I regulalrly see 4HE1 equiped trucks for sale with over 250K miles on them.

I would agree with you in that, considering how much effort it is going to take to swap in a 4HE1, that an overhaul may be a good option if there is any question regarding the condition of the engine. Fortunately, mine has less than 100K on it and oil pressure and compression are great so I'm going ahead without "freshening" it.

Anyone else that has first hand experience with these engines, good or bad, please post up!
 
Last edited:
Apologize for the delay

My DD Samurai developed a rod knock so I had to scramble to get a replacement. I was going to run my good FJ62 but hated to put a totally rust-free Texas truck on the salty roads of Michigan. So I decided to resurrect the FJ62 that I had bought for a parts truck. Its on the road but I still have to resolve a bunch of minor problems before I can get back to the swap.

The up side to getting the parts truck running is that I'll have a stock truck to compare performance-wise to the diesel-powered one.
 
never seen any trucks with 4H motors come through our w/shop with any major problems. had a couple that had chewed out the rings cause of dust but thats just operators not looking after their trucks. get a lot of high mileage trucks as well, over 300k km, couple over 400k. had a bigger truck with a 6HE1-TC (similiar motor) in it come trough recently with over 600k km on it and still running pretty good.
 
never seen any trucks with 4H motors come through our w/shop with any major problems. had a couple that had chewed out the rings cause of dust but thats just operators not looking after their trucks. get a lot of high mileage trucks as well, over 300k km, couple over 400k. had a bigger truck with a 6HE1-TC (similiar motor) in it come trough recently with over 600k km on it and still running pretty good.

That is reassuring to hear!
 
I just noticed a 94 tranny up in the classifieds. Should be the 442 and since I have a line on a 4HE1, I might be following suit for my 97...sometimes pipe dreams do come true!

Here is a link to the tranny in case anyone else is interested. I'm not sure how it will turn out for me as I'd have to get it shipped.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/359077-sale-1994-tranny-190k-miles.html

Plus, I was hoping astr would be giving us an update soon!!!

Tripper
 
I just noticed a 94 tranny up in the classifieds. Should be the 442 and since I have a line on a 4HE1, I might be following suit for my 97...sometimes pipe dreams do come true!

Here is a link to the tranny in case anyone else is interested. I'm not sure how it will turn out for me as I'd have to get it shipped.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/359077-sale-1994-tranny-190k-miles.html

Plus, I was hoping astr would be giving us an update soon!!!

Tripper

I had to be out of town for a few days and now I'm back still trying to get the bugs sorted out of my "parts" truck so I can use it as my DD. Besides the rear brakes being totally non-functional, I've had to work out a bunch of electrical gremlins. Needless to say, I've not made any progress on the hybrid transmission.

Tripper: I'm just down the road from Detroit so I could take a look at the transmission. At least once a year, I make a trip to NYC area so I could bring it with me if you can wait a while. Where exactly are you located?
 
Do you think the 80's will have the same starter clearance problem?


Definitely. By my approximation, it would stick right above the gas pedal. There may be a way to stick it up into the area above the gas pedal so it is out of the way however until someone tries it, we have to go off of the measurements. Depending on where the engine sits, it may not protrude very far. Of course the last thing you want to do with a Toyota is mess with the gas pedal....just kidding of course.

ASTR, I'm above Scranton PA and may take you up on that. I could certainly meet up with you somewhere. I'll keep in touch with how things work out.


Tripper
 
I figured I'd toss some info I found into the mix for reference. I stumbled on this while looking for some clarification on the controller for the A442's.

"Can't speak for Coaster bus applications but in the LandCruiser 80 series 1HD-T came bolted to 2 versions of the A442F only, pre 92/08 80 series was pure Hydraulic A442F
Post 93/08 was ECT controled A442F
the latter is same as in the USA 93-94 FZJ80 but torque converter and valve body optimized for the Diesel power and torque curves."

Pulled from the following thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/254321-1hz-t-what-transmission.html


Tripper
 
I am also looking into putting this motor into my 80, however that starter location is a big problem. Could you please give us a measurement from the front of the fan, to the back of the starter. That motor looks shorter than a 1FZ so maybe it wont be too big of an issue. Some more measurements that could help would be farthest it sticks out to the side when measured from the crank, and how high up it is in relation to the crank. If that makes sense I would really appreciate it, it will let some of us try to visualize where that thing will be on the 80.
 
Andy,

I had mentioned offsetting the starter to you the other night and today I found this while surfing the 4bt site. Although this is a cummins, it might spark some ideas.

attachment.php



Tripper
 
I am also looking into putting this motor into my 80, however that starter location is a big problem. Could you please give us a measurement from the front of the fan, to the back of the starter. That motor looks shorter than a 1FZ so maybe it wont be too big of an issue. Some more measurements that could help would be farthest it sticks out to the side when measured from the crank, and how high up it is in relation to the crank. If that makes sense I would really appreciate it, it will let some of us try to visualize where that thing will be on the 80.

Went out and took some measurements and pictures last night. The first photo shows the offset of the starter to the left of the engine/transmission centerline = 13" This is from the leftmost edge of the starter.

The second pic show the height of the starter above the engine crankshaft centerline. The horizontal metal ruler is laying on the top surface of the starter. Distance from centerline of crank to top of starter = 7".

The last photo shows how far the starter extends back. Because of he camera angle, it may not look like it but the lower edge of the horizontal ruler is aligned with the back of the AW450 bell housing. This would correspond to the split between the bell housing and the transmission main case on an A440F or an A442F. The starter extends back 6" from this point. I also measured the back of the starter with reference to the front of the fan on the 4HE1 = 45".

These measurements should give people an idea as to the extent of the interference that they may encounter as a result of the odd starter location. Any feedback would be welcome.
Side-clearance.webp
Top-clearance.webp
Rear-clearance.webp
 
Manual Valve Lever Shaft Mods

I finally made some progress this past weekend. The last issue that I need to address before starting the final assembly of the AW450 core hybrid transmission is difference in the locations of the neutral lockout switch and the transmission shift levers are on opposite sides of the two transmission. As I plan to test this hybrid transmission in the NPR chassis before moving it to the FJ62, I decided that I would make a new manual valve lever shaft that would accommodate both configurations.

This shaft is just a 12 mm shaft with some flats and threaded sections to engage the shift levers and the neutral lockout switch. As this shaft is rotated by the shift lever, it in turn rotates the manual valve lever which slides a valve within the valve body. The manual valve lever is held on the manual valve lever shaft with a spring tension pin that passes through both.

To make a shaft that would accommodate both shift lever configurations, I basically duplicated the AW450 shaft except that I extended it another inch or so on the neutral lockout switch side so as to allow mounting the A440F shift lever just beyond the switch. This will offset the shift lever a bit from its original position but I don’t expect it will cause a problem. At worse, the jog that is built into the shift lever will have to be eliminated to compensate for the offset on the shaft.

Making the new shaft was going to be simple once I got some time on a friend’s lathe. The only part that was difficult was to accurately clock the hole that the spring pin passes through to hold the manual valve lever. After three tries, I finally succeeded. It’s amazing how easy it is to make scrap on a CNC mill by misplacing a decimal point! In retrospect, if I didn’t want to have a shaft with both the AW450 and A440F shift levers, I could have modified the AW450 shaft to accommodate the A440F shift lever by repositioning the AW450 shaft about an inch towards the neutral lockout switch. This would require drilling a second hole for the spring tension pin, extending the flats that engage the neutral lockout switch and adding a threaded section on the end to accept the nuts that hold the shift lever on the shaft. The AW450 shaft is long enough to allow this mod.

And now the three obligatory photos: Pic 1 compares the stock AW450 shaft to the stock A440F shaft with the respective shift levers, manual valve levers and neutral lockout switches in place. Pic 2 shows the new shaft with all the components installed including both the AW450 and A440F shift levers. Pic 3 shows a test fit on the transmission with all the relevant pieces in place.
Manual-Valve-Shaft-Compare.webp
Composite-Shaft.webp
Composite-shaft-installedjp.webp
 
I'm having some great conversations with myself here! Once again, for future reference, the tranfer cases on the 440's, 442's, and 343's are interchangeable. See the following if interested.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/360881-transfer-case-differences.html#post5264898


Tripper

Only directly if the A440 is out of an 80. Minimally you would need the change the output shaft of an A440 from an FJ-62 to have it mate with a case from an 80. Not sure if it will actually bolt up but the output is definitely different and would need to be addressed.

Edit: Fixed A400 typo
 
Last edited:
Sorry to stray off topic but what is an A400? This is the first reference I have heard of it.

Tripper
 
Sorry to stray off topic but what is an A400? This is the first reference I have heard of it.

Tripper

an A440 with a misplace finger :lol:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom