Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (2 Viewers)

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Lordco. I have mixed feelings about that place. I can honestly say I pay a different price for oil every time I shop there. I actually had an argument with a guy that I should only be charged the pricing on the shelf as opposed to the "deal" he wanted to give me which was 70 cents more per quart. It was absurd. Some of those counter guys ride an extra short bus. It's really a redline amsoil mix as I had to add a lot when the cooler line leaked. Got the amsoil from KMS tools. Did I mention I hate soft external oil lines? it wasn't cheap and I'd look into perhaps if it's available in Lynden or bellingham or something as oil down there often seems to be half the price. I haven't looked into that though. I too ran the Dino for a while before switching to the synthetic.
 
Yeah I find oils seem to be about 40-50% cheaper south of the line. I try and plan all my services so I can go down in advance to get it at WalMart or whatever.

Where did you get the filter?


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So today was all wiring. I wanted to get the majority of the transmission wired and plugs swapped.

The harness on the A440 and A343 are very similar. The A343 has a one extra plug that is dedicated to the transmission operation. That plug has 5-6 wires none of which are used any longer. The rest is all the same down to the wire colors and plug.

One part that was different was the NSS location and wiring. I easily sorted out what wire was for what gear with a simple continuity test. I needed to ad an extra wire to my NSS harness for 3rd gear selector location. I will re designate one of the wires that use to eliminate the "2nd start" or "PWR" light for the 3rd gear indicator once i start in truck wiring.

I also have the large gauge starter trigger wire connected now too so if all goes well when I plug in the truck end and get a battery in it should crank. Will test that in a few days.both temp sensors are now wired, I needed to ad 6" to each plug so could run them neatly. Still have a few things to sort out with the wiring but its getting there.

Trans wiring NSS and grounds.








I know its a bit of a mess but I do not want to loom anything till its running.



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Ordered my trans cooler last night. Instead of micky mousing around with trying to plumb 2 stock external coolers I ordered a tru cool LPD4739 40k BTU trans cooler. Its got a thermal bypass to allow the trans to get up to temp in the winter as well. This the cooler all the big diesel guys are adding to keep there tow rigs cool.

Also ordered two of the trans coolers listed earlier.

And got the fox shocks for my lift ordered, see how they do on the 4" lift with a heavy load.


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So some more progress today, had a non scheduled day off so took advantage.

Got all the fuel system done and ready to be primed. I installed the 120mu pre filter in the engine bay as well since its easily viewed and serviced there.



I then plumbed the last two connections to the main fuel/water separator and to pump. So with that the fuel system is now done and ready for fuel Saturday.




I also as you can see have the wiring run and into the dash area and connected. The CDL, starter/NSS and most the dash lights/Gauges seem to work as does the fuel shutdown and enrichment cables. Still need to hook up the tach adapter and verify. As well as a couple other wires most of those will need to wait till I have more time.

I have also coated the down pipe and mid pipe in prep for being wrapped and installed.

Saturday I hope to get the last of the down pipe and cooling system squared away. I received my transmission cooler today its a decent size. Good quality and had the thermostat to let the trans come to temp before circulating fluid through the cooler. Hope to get that installed Saturday or Sunday.








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Thanks again for great documentation and pics :-). I'm doing fuel lines tomorrow and like your up and over approach. I was thinking of wrapping around the front on the frame rail but that was looking like a long path. I'll have to noodle on this tomorrow

both temp sensors are now wired, I needed to ad 6" to each plug so could run them neatly.


Shoot...I only wired one as my read on the temp sensors was that one was for the gauge and one was for EFI. Are you adding an additional gauge or did I read the ewd wrong?

On the trans wiring...are you not using the cruise control kick down solenoid wires or did you find a way to make them work?



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Thanks again for great documentation and pics :-). I'm doing fuel lines tomorrow and like your up and over approach. I was thinking of wrapping around the front on the frame rail but that was looking like a long path. I'll have to noodle on this tomorrow




Shoot...I only wired one as my read on the temp sensors was that one was for the gauge and one was for EFI. Are you adding an additional gauge or did I read the ewd wrong?

On the trans wiring...are you not using the cruise control kick down solenoid wires or did you find a way to make them work?



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The fuel lines are routed the only logical way I could cone up with. Originally I was going to make new lines from tank forward....yuck


I have wired both the gauge temp sensor and the A/C cut sensor. So if its over heating the A/C turns off.

I have repurposed the cruise kick down wiring for my manual lockup switch for the converter.


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Nice work, well thought out and executed!

Looking forward to the "Drive" report...soon.
 
One step closer tonight, trans filled and down pipe wrapped.


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Your getting closer to running and my truck is getting further from drivable hahaha. Hope you're up and putting around soon enough.
 
Your getting closer to running and my truck is getting further from drivable hahaha. Hope you're up and putting around soon enough.

Oh what did you do? Last time saw you it was plugging along the hwy by Davis Bay.


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So today was a solid half day on it. I needed to get my transmission cooler lines sorted out. I have been putting this off for weeks because I hate working with 3/8" line it just does not bend nicely.

Anyways I got it done for now. Securing them properly will be a task for when I get back from my next Deployment mid summer. For now it just needs to move on its own power out of the shop.

Here is the transition from the stock a440 cooler lines too the ones I made. The larger loop on one line is accommodate the magnafilter I have on order. I also really need to sort out where Im putting the trans temp sensor. I want it right in this area but cant seem to find a good spot.



The red filter there is my coolant filter. Only practical place to put it.

This is the front and will be under the rad. I made the lines though so that I can get to all the clamps from under the truck once its all together for field servicing.



That blue thing is a trans cooler thermostat so the trans can get up to temp in the winter. Not sure how it works i could blow air into one port and it would come out the other 3. If its an issue its easily removed.


This is the two lines exiting below the rad support, ill connect the trans cooler tomorrow once I get the rest of the rads in place.






I then moved onto the coolant filter that you saw a glimpse of the bottom of. Here is the top.



One line goes to the post thermostat housing. The other goes on the pre pump side. Its just a bypass system that I hope once the system is clean will maintain it.

I then went onto install my finished down pipe and heat shields. As you can see the pipe is wrapped and the heat shield is a heat reflective type. Its 1/8th 316ss that is bent to deflect the heat away from the heater hoses and valve cover. Its still going to get hot but hopefully not as hot.













Thats it for today.















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Not a big fan of the cooler (p/s and trans) lines going between rad and frame.... what I've seen many times on 60 series (2 of my own vehicles as well, but both times p/s lines), is the body settles/squashes the body support rubbers and eventually wears thru the cooler lines.... fortunately both times mine did this it was a slow leak and I had time to see the drips on the ground before it bled dry..... just a thought WN....... great documenting as usual man.
 
Not a big fan of the cooler (p/s and trans) lines going between rad and frame.... what I've seen many times on 60 series (2 of my own vehicles as well, but both times p/s lines), is the body settles/squashes the body support rubbers and eventually wears thru the cooler lines.... fortunately both times mine did this it was a slow leak and I had time to see the drips on the ground before it bled dry..... just a thought WN....... great documenting as usual man.


Yeah it was not my first choice but I need to live with it for now. The body mounts are still good as are the rad rubber mounts. The rad even bottled out metal in metal (brackets) is not touching. Like i said all of this is easily serviced from below if needed. I will carry a roll of 3/8" trans hose in my spares kit.

In the future i may revisit these cooler lines since i am not totally happy with them.


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Hey. It looks good Jerms, and your getting so close to finishing it. Where did you get that little trans cooler thermostat do dad from.
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It came with the tru-cool 40k BTU trans cooler I got. Cooler is nice and high quality as it seems the rest of the kit is. Just not sure how this thermostat works, could not make sense of it blowing through it. I only see needing it a few days of the year here so if I need to bypass it then so be it. I need to keep this trans cool.


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