Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (5 Viewers)

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Interesting idea on hard mounting the down pipe and using an extra long flex joint. It makes sense to me, as the engine and trans all move as a unit, why not hard mount the down pipe?

You would likely have plenty of room to install the flex near the trans.

I like it.
 
Yeah, seemed to work well for me with minimal clearances. I'll do similarbif I ever get around to adding a turbo and 3" exhaust to my current rig.

The short braided flex joints are actually quite rigid IMO

One thing I did take into consideration with hard mounting down pipe to engine and trans was the possibility of thermal expansion/contraction of a few feet of pipe. While it was hard mounted, my brackets weren't overly rigid, I tried to allow for some expansion
 
Thanks guys. The flex I got was sorted than I wanted but it was all they had in stock. The down pipe will be bolted to the engine most likely the bell housing. If the 4" flex I got cant cope with the vibrations and movement then Ill have to come up with something else. Te longest I have seen this style was 6". So lay try that. Where the flex is located I have 18" of straight so lots of room to add flex length.

Did not get a lot done today all that got done really was the exhaust brake was mounted to the exhaust. Then I started building the the over the t case part but ran into issues. One of them was the slight flex each connection that is spot welded has. So I the down pipe and exhaust off to start welding it all. Got the down pipe done but still need to do the mid pipe. Once that is done Ill bolt it back in and continue.

The exhaust brake weighs about 10lbs so Im going to have to figure out an exhaust mount to hold its weight. The mount will be directly to the brake to keep it from having any leverage on any components. Will probably use the factory mounts to hold it.

I looked at the 3" rubber hump hose I have again and its way stiffer than the double hump hose I got. I could stand it up and step on it, my 205lbs was just enough to compress the hump part. I think that is far too stiff.

No update tomorrow, my wife myself and brother are taking his HJ60 out wheeling for the day.
 
So updates have slowed. Im employed again and going through my Telecom training at the moment so have very little free time.

This weekend I was able to spend both days working on it. Progress was slow after pulling something in my shoulder climbing a telephone pole and the need the not aggravate it.

Worked on the intercooler, what I thought would be easy after getting the in/outlet redone proved not to be the case. The straight outlets I ha put on placed the silicone 90* bends right into the rad support. One of the few oversights so far but annoying after all the work to do them. So I cut them off and got some 90* cast Aluminum elbows and trimmed to get them welded on this week.

I then started on the pipes.

Drivers side.



Used a 2-2.5 90* off the turbo and then 2.5" pipe to a 2.5" heat resistant hump hose. Then that attaches to the intercooler. The vibrations will be absorbed by the silicone 90* for the most part its got a surprising amount of flex. The pipe its self will have a tab to the fender to keep it from flapping around.

Passenger side.







This side the intercooler pipe bolts directly to the intake manifold. From there it goes down and under the air box. Then there is another 2.5" hump hose. The short straight section of pipe in the last picture will be mounted to the fender well like the other side. The last black hump by the intercooler is just temporary ill replace it with a straight one when I get it.

As you can tell the orange hump hoses are bright so I tried to position them so they where out of sight but still effective. Its not really needed o the driver side and I may replace it with some straight hose instead.

I had a bit more time today and my shoulder was doing ok so I installed the vacuum canister I had from a parts HJ60. This way if for some reason the engine stops I still have 2-3 pumps of the breaks before I lose all assistance.





There is also a low vacuum switch that i may wire up to a light or buzzer incase the pump gives up to alert me of the issue.

With that other than the last of the exhaust and the fuel lines to majority of the fab work is done. The exhaust is done till I get my viscus t case into the truck since its got a longer output. That will not be in till final assembly so the exhaust will be last.

Fuel lines will need to be done next weekend or this week when not in class. Once that's done then the tear down begins. I have a growing pile of parts for powder coat and painting so when it gets torn down again its all going out for that. So that will be out for a week or two. In the mean time I need to get the frame cleaned and painted and sort out the wiring.

Hope to get most of that done or at least most of the teardown done before March 9th. I will be out of town for a month after that for work.
 
Glad you have employment. I was really starting to get jealous of your progress but extra free time always helps that. The day job really gets in the way I fun projects. Looking good been spending bunch of time thinking about the inter cooler but haven't pulled the trigger on any thing
 
Thanks!! How is yours going?
Should be picking up now. It was waiting on some parts. Hopefully I'll get some photos to post this week.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
I'm guessing your going to weld all your intake piping or get someone to tig it once it's all done, after that will you paint it your self or get it powder coated or something fancy?

Yeah, the intake pipe on top is getting TIG wilded. Im still unsure if I want to TIG or MIG the intercooler pipes. Ill probably have it TIGed. After that its off to get an industrial powder coat applied.
 
Yeah, the intake pipe on top is getting TIG wilded. Im still unsure if I want to TIG or MIG the intercooler pipes. Ill probably have it TIGed. After that its off to get an industrial powder coat applied.

Definitely TIG and flood the pipes with argon fist. You've got to be a master welder to get nice clean mig welds on ~1mm wall intake piping and the absolute last thing you want is slag/spatter on the inside.
 
Definitely TIG and flood the pipes with argon fist. You've got to be a master welder to get nice clean mig welds on ~1mm wall intake piping and the absolute last thing you want is slag/spatter on the inside.

Would not TIG weld it any other way.
 
I thought I would mention that I put a 4 inch flex in my downpipe a little while ago and it made a big difference, but I think I would have been better off rigid mounting the downpipe to the engine and putting the flex down lower. It works fine but I think it would have been easier to control the exhaust movement. Right now the exhaust can "swing" from side to side, and making a mount to control the movement is pretty tricky.

I had a question for you and all the others chiming in here about the swap, how did you guys determine the fan shroud clearance around the fan? I had to re-vamp my radiator support due to a leak and I bought a fabricated shroud, but I need to make the hole and weld the band around it. I know the engine will rock back and forth almost 2 inches on the mounts at the valve cover, which would give me less than an inch of movement at the fan, but I'm still a little concerned. Short of putting a go pro under the hood and taking it for a drive...

It's never even run hot without a shroud but I think it might improve my intercooler efficiency since it's tucked in behind the bumper to some degree.

Anyways, hope this doesn't come off as a hijack, it's looking great.
 
Not to hijack Jeremy's great build...

On my 4BD2 swap into a 60 LandCrusher, I measured both the stock 60 set up with the 2F and the NPR 1.2 cut I had with the engine and radiator complete and mounted to the frame.

I measured the distance from the fans to the radiator face and the tip to the shroud. I used the stock 60 radiator and shroud, repositioned the radiator and shroud to very near the same measurements of the 60 stock set up. I found both the NPR and 60 had nearly identical fan cleanaces!

For mine, I have about 1.25" between the fan tip and shroud, and about 2.5" fan the fins. I used the stock NPR engine mounts and the stock Toyota trans mount. It shakes some at shutdown, but never any contact.

I have never had cooling issues even on 110+ degree days with AC a heavy load and climbing a 6% grade.

There are some pictures in my build link below of my set up.

Doug
 
No hijack at all guys!

I have not started on the fan shroud yet. I hope to get some Aluminum sheet bent up and then start piecing it together. I had planned on 1" fan to shroud clearance. I have had Fans how shrouds before and it sucks. My fan sits about 1" from the tank to core seam and about 2"-2 1/4" from the core its self. I cant see the fan blades pulling forward that much ever I cant even flex them that far by hand.

For the flex I'm going to run it as is for now. If I have issues later I can easily put in a longer one. Mine is positioned to eliminate that swing effect I also have a tab to the bell housing that allows for some exhaust growth wit heat.
 
Thanks guys.

I did stand on the brakes and floor it today with the hood open, and the engine only moves over an inch or so. It would probably be worse at full noise and higher RPM, but probably not a whole lot.

I seem to remember the fan shroud clearance being about 1 or 1.25" when I dismantled the Fuso, so I think I'll go with that. Thanks guys. I'd rather have a bit more room and lose some fan efficiency than have contact and destroy something.
 
Looking good! Can't wait to see how your adapter setup works out for you. What are your plans for the spacer between the tc and flex plate?
 
Looking good! Can't wait to see how your adapter setup works out for you. What are your plans for the spacer between the tc and flex plate?

Thanks! Still working on that part, hope to have a prototype soon had a plan for months just been waiting on machine time.
 

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