Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

[Wheelingnoob]

Does that make it kinda tricky if you want to do a cam change later without pulling the head? How would you fit the lifters and keep them in?

Its easy, the lifters have a hole to allow a securing device (paper clip) to keep them from dropping. You do need to pull the valve cover and unbolt the upper valve train to re-leave pressure from the push rods and lifters. It would take about 20min to do in the field besides taking off the timing cover and removing the cam.

It is neat working on an industrial engine and seeing all the service oriented design features.

 

[longbow]

Yeah, I know what you mean Jeremy. I have worked on a bunch of engines over the years and never had one that was designed as simple to work on as these. It is almost like the engineers designed them to last a lifetime and be rebuilt multiple times!

Don

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yes its a refreshing thing to see in this age of disposable products to improve return business. I am really glad I got the chance to rebuild this engine even if it was in mint shape (it was not but if it was) its really nice to know how to fix something when it happens.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Well got to the place that carries metric hardware here (very poor selection) I got what I needed but everything is nickel plated grade 8. The ones for the thermostat housing are huge 17mm head bolts so I'm not too keen on using them. I also got some for the exhaust manifold but I'm really worried about them and think I'm going to find some alternatives. Worse case i get them from Isuzu.

 

[gerg]

Alder auto in aldergrove here has a great selection of meteric and standard hardwear. They also have tons of npt stuff as well. Great little shop.

I gotta come by and have a look at your engine and stuff. It looks like you really comming along.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Alder auto in aldergrove here has a great selection of meteric and standard hardwear. They also have tons of npt stuff as well. Great little shop.

I gotta come by and have a look at your engine and stuff. It looks like you really comming along.

Funny it was actually Alder Auto in Cloverdale that I got this stuff. I'll have to check out the Walnut Grove store I ear they may have a better bolt selection. The metric selection at Cloverdale store was really not very good.

Any time I'm usually working on it at least one day per weekend, if I'm not out of town for work.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I ordered the bolts and studs form Isuzu, they where dirt cheap and I needed a few gaskets from them anyway. Nalley Isuzu seems to have the best prices I have found on line plus a good on line store. Total for everything needed was $21 including the gaskets.

 

[longbow]

Hey Jeremy, Thanks for the heads up on Nalley Isuzu! I've been searching on the net for a couple of years for Isuzu parts online and never found those guys and they have schematics and the best prices I've seen!

Nice find!

Don

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Hey Jeremy, Thanks for the heads up on Nalley Isuzu! I've been searching on the net for a couple of years for Isuzu parts online and never found those guys and they have schematics and the best prices I've seen!

Nice find!

Don

Not a problem, I had been searching as well and was a bit surprised there where not more. I have ordered from a few dealers in the US and Nalley blows there prices away plus the ease of online ordering. My first shipment from them got to my door 5 days after ordering so not bad considering the local to me Isuzu dealer takes that long cost 3x as much and charges me for shipping from Isuzu warehouse to the dealer? Much happier with Nalley.

I got more progress made last night, I got most of the bolted on brackets blasted and painted as well as the sonic cover from the 94 with the nice embossed "ISUZU" on it. After that was done I started looking at my Volvo turbo to plan its disassembly, mods and rebuild. I have a 3" cast steel weld el that I may try and get welded to the turbine one I have the engine fitted, this way I I do not need any 2.5" to 3" expansions and can use all 3" v bands in the exhaust track. Speaking of exhaust I started pricing my system out with Aero Turbine Muffler 3030XL and resonator AR30 a builder kit of 3" aluminized pipe, 3" flex and 3" V bands. Going to be about $500 in parts shipped and should get me from turbo back to rear bumper.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Sounds like you have a sweet plan for your exhaust. I was going to pick up an Aero Turbine 3030xl muffler for my 4BT but got a Flowmaster 70 series for free. I'm sure you'll like it!

Looking forward to more pictures!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Sounds like you have a sweet plan for your exhaust. I was going to pick up an Aero Turbine 3030xl muffler for my 4BT but got a Flowmaster 70 series for free. I'm sure you'll like it!

Looking forward to more pictures!

Thanks, it should work well I hope. I'm a long long ways away from starting on the exhaust I just wanted to get an idea on cost and have all the parts in my head. Probably get the exhaust parts ordered this summer some time depending how finances and other parts go.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looks like I may have stumbled onto a local shop that can re grind the injector faces and rebuild/hone the nozzles. The Injectors are there now getting looked at for a quote.

 

[McDowra]

Get new tips put in your injectors, don't waste your time and money on regrinding the old tips.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

This thread has been a great read. I am looking forward to seeing the results as i dream of doing a 4bd-1t swap into my '94, probably keeping the A442F transmission and dealing with whatever i have to deal with since it's electronically controlled. I just feel like, already having a transmission big enough for a school bus, why downgrade? But i digress.

I've never rebuilt an engine before, but if i do end up doing this i will have the assistance of a master engine builder.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Posted this in the 80 section but do not think that crowd is the one to answer this question. This idea has been bouncing around in my head for a few months.

"I'm going to be running a A440F out of a 91-92 FJ80 bolted to my viscus coupled t case. I already have a low stall rebuild converter but am looking at a few other options. This trans will have a moded VB with 3rd lock up, higher line pressure and a few other tweaks to make it last behind the diesel.

One thing I'm unsure on is the pump and converter.

I know that the converter on the A442 is much more efficient and better all round than the A440F converter. I have a 2nd A440F that I am planing on rebuilding with added clutches and possibly swapping the pump off a A442F and converter. I need to swap the pump because the converters are different for the two pumps. Does anyone know if a A442F pump will work in a A440f, the two transmissions are so similar I have a hard time believing they are not swappable.

Anyone tried it or had two apart to compare? Anyone have a dead A442f and converter they want to unload for an experiment?

Cheers,"

 

[Wheelingnoob]

So I had a pesky vacation to Mexico get in the way of my swap, I then returned with a case of swimmers ear so was laid up for a few days. So this last weekend feeling better (still not hearing in my left ear) I decided since I was at a stand still with the engine to work on a few other projects. First one was oil filter relocation, with the 80 series hi pinion front axle on the same side as the oil filters there was a space issue. So knowing roughly where the drive shaft fill sit in the relation to the filters I knew I needed to move the filters away and up. My initial though was to make a remote mounting kit that would move the filters somewhere else. I then pulled up a stool and started looking at the engine and space and thought that maybe I could just move them up 4ish inches. I then realized there was quite a bit of room above the stock filter mounting location to move them up and out. So I got some Aluminium and started playing around a bit. I was able to move them up so that the lowest part of the filter is 4" higher and 1.25" further out from the block. My only concern so far is if I have from with my frame rail but I will not know this till I have the engine in the bay so I'm just hoping it fits. If not I have a few hours and maybe $50 into this.





Cant go any higher with the Altitude compensator in the way.





I'm just waiting on some 10m x 1.25 alen head bolts to come in for securing it to the block. Once I have those I can drill it for oil galleys. If once I get it in the frame and find its not going to fit I can easily chop it in half and use it as a relocation kit.

With that done I then moved onto my turbo. I wanted to get it all striped apart and ready for modification.

Parts all layed out, a lot of people seem worried about turbos and seem to think there is a black art to them. In reality they are very simple devices the key is making sure they are balanced correctly.



19T (Left) vs stock Volvo 13T (Right)



Both are Supper backs



19T fins are 2mm taller.



Now the bad



Looks like the turbine touched the housing at some point There is a few burs on the wheel its very minor but they did make contact.



Not sure what to do with it, its not bad but the wheel has been ground down a slightly in the radius from major to minor. On eBay I have found a few options but at $150+ for a decent one I'm not sure I want to spend that on it. Other option is get another used turbo and hope the turbine on it is undamaged. Last option is just run with what I have and hope it does not effect the performance too much.

 

[gerg]

That sucks man. I have yet to get a damaged turbine off my ebay turbos. A few damaged compressors though. If it were me id gently deburr and let the rebalance do the rest. It definately touched, but the damage doesnt look catistrophic.

Wow, that is some serous looking bracket! That oil filter is not going anywhere.

As for your swimmer ear... I work reguarly in the OR with a ear nose throat suregon and use hydrogen peroxide in my kids ears to reduce ear wax as he recomended. Its very safe provided your ear drum isnt ruptured. You would know if it was as you can blow air out of your ear when you plug your nose... that is not normal by the way.

Anyhow, the hydrogen peroxide will kill any infection in the ear canal. The inflamation will take a while to go down. I would do peroxide in the ear lying on your side letting it sit in for a minute or two and just tip your head to the opposite side with a cloth under to let it drain. Absolutely no q-tips!. That is what I do for my kids. We use 3% HP that is the usual concentration from the drug store.

Be very very careful with other disinfectants in the ear as most will be ototoxic.. that is ear damgaing. Hydrogen peroxide isnt ototoxic with an intact ear drum and has proven to be safe for chinchillas that had perforated ear drums.

On a side note, another Dr I work with contraced pseudomonas pneumonia from an unchlorinated pool in mexico a couple of months ago and spent a week in an ICU in Toronto as he couldnt make it home here on his flight. He almost died as this brand of pneumonia has a mortality rate of 10% among totally healthy folks. If he had not been a work out freak he would have died as his infection was aggressive and advanced quite quickly with delayed therapy as he wantd a hospital in canada to go to. Be careful when you travel to mexico. Its not just the banditos that can kill you there.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That sucks man. I have yet to get a damaged turbine off my ebay turbos. A few damaged compressors though. If it were me id gently deburr and let the rebalance do the rest. It definately touched, but the damage doesnt look catistrophic.

Wow, that is some serous looking bracket! That oil filter is not going anywhere.

As for your swimmer ear... I work reguarly in the OR with a ear nose throat suregon and use hydrogen peroxide in my kids ears to reduce ear wax as he recomended. Its very safe provided your ear drum isnt ruptured. You would know if it was as you can blow air out of your ear when you plug your nose... that is not normal by the way.

Anyhow, the hydrogen peroxide will kill any infection in the ear canal. The inflamation will take a while to go down. I would do peroxide in the ear lying on your side letting it sit in for a minute or two and just tip your head to the opposite side with a cloth under to let it drain. Absolutely no q-tips!. That is what I do for my kids. We use 3% HP that is the usual concentration from the drug store.

Be very very careful with other disinfectants in the ear as most will be ototoxic.. that is ear damgaing. Hydrogen peroxide isnt ototoxic with an intact ear drum and has proven to be safe for chinchillas that had perforated ear drums.

Yeah its beef but I wanted to have room to safely drill my oil passages to get from the block to the filter head. The oil feed will be a 5/8th and the bypass filter return will be a 1/4.

I have defiantly see worse damage before I actually thought it was fine till I took it apart and by change felt the burr on the blade. I may file off the burs and take for balancing to see how it balances out.

Thanks for the tips on my ear, its feeling a lot better now, got 50% of my hearing back in it now. I have been using Dr prescribed antibiotic drops and oral antibiotics. I'm almost done both rounds so hope to be back 100% in a few days.

I usually do not use Q tips but when the ear started bugging me I though I would try, it just made it worse. I'll try the Hydrogen Peroxide, the Dr also recommended using oil like peanut or olive, I can see that making a mess though.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Also just ordered a replacement exhaust manifold from Isuzu, mine was cracked and I took it to a machine shop that said welding it would be 50/50 since the crack was so deep and they could only access one side. Total would have been $130 with machining so spending $160 on a OEM one was no question the way to go. I also found the high temp ceramic coat I use to use when I worked at a performance shop so I ordered a can of it to do the manifold and turbine housing, its rated to 2000F surface temp so should be fine.

 

[gerg]

I saw some stuff at KMS tools that was interesting. It was a ceramic in a spray can with a flex hose and multi spray tip for coating exhaust manifolds internally. Might cut a tad of the heat and smooth out the texture and help wth flow a bit. I dont know how you would sand blast the inside, but a good thurough degreasing and a bake to get the oil out and it might stick ok as the inside will be all rough from casting anyhow. Was only like 20$

http://www.kmstools.com/eastwood-internal-exhaust-coating-18297