Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

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I know Gerg and Kevinmrowland might be the guys to talk to about this.

Gerg has mentioned in the past (at least for the 3b) that the valve design he runs additives in his oil. Don't know what he exactly did for his rebuild though.

When I got my cam done up at colt cams, which is actaully a few blocks down the road from me, he was adimant that I ran zink additive to give the cam an additional final critical barier during break in, and he stongly suggested running it always to preserve the cam. He said that newer oils have cut additives alot and he is seeing flat lifter cams wear out across the board. Rollers are doing alright though. I run zink and moly additives with full synthetic 15-40 amsoil/ redline. During the cam and engine break in I only ran the zink with dino oil. I delayed adding synthetic oils and moly for 10K to let the rings get a good chance to seat. If you run a turbo hard you should run full synthetic, in my opinion, as the bearings in a turbocharger are a tiny crucible that will destroy your oil one drop at a time.
 
When I got my cam done up at colt cams, which is actaully a few blocks down the road from me, he was adimant that I ran zink additive to give the cam an additional final critical barier during break in, and he stongly suggested running it always to preserve the cam. He said that newer oils have cut additives alot and he is seeing flat lifter cams wear out across the board. Rollers are doing alright though. I run zink and moly additives with full synthetic 15-40 amsoil/ redline. During the cam and engine break in I only ran the zink with dino oil. I delayed adding synthetic oils and moly for 10K to let the rings get a good chance to seat. If you run a turbo hard you should run full synthetic, in my opinion, as the bearings in a turbocharger are a tiny crucible that will destroy your oil one drop at a time.

Yes I have heard the same, I am running the old cam and lifters so I'm sure they have done all the heat hardening the are going to take. I may run a zink additive to prolong there life though.

This weekend I was with out a helper so did not get a much done as I wanted. I also did not have a TQ wrench that can go up to 175ft/lbs that the mains need. So I just snuged them up for now. I also installed the two freeze plugs in the push rod area and tried with out success to install the front and rear plugs, man what a bitch they are proving to be.

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Also painted the flywheel housing.



This week I'm trying to borrow a torque wrench that can go to 175ft/lbs and get the main torqued down then drop the pistons and rods in and get the bottom end all buttoned up.
 
Look at that, you've got one of those 2 bolt flywheel housings with the 3 bolt starter adapter fitted.
First time I've seen a picture of one.
 
Look at that, you've got one of those 2 bolt flywheel housings with the 3 bolt starter adapter fitted.
First time I've seen a picture of one.

Yeah I think all the 4BD1T/2T's had them here, I mistakenly bought an extra thinking it was a ball housing and it was the same. It was off a 5spd 1T.
 
Good thread mate. I'm enjoying the diesel-rebuild tech! I bet your looking forward to getting it bolted in and hitting the road. :clap:

Yes I am, Once its rebuilt then I can set it aside and enjoy the summer exploring and camping with truck. Come September I will take it off the road and start the swap.
 
Yeah I think all the 4BD1T/2T's had them here, I mistakenly bought an extra thinking it was a ball housing and it was the same. It was off a 5spd 1T.

I thought most were one piece cast 3 bolt. The adapters are the rare ones.
Interestingly you can get 24v compact 2 bolt starters, but not 12v. The three bolt housings were used in 12v markets.
 
I thought most were one piece cast 3 bolt. The adapters are the rare ones.
Interestingly you can get 24v compact 2 bolt starters, but not 12v. The three bolt housings were used in 12v markets.

My oldest 4BD1 also has the adapter. The newer 4BD1 and the 4BD2 do not have the separate adapters. Good eye Dougal!
 
Spent the day yesterday working on the engine, part of it was spent running around getting assembly lube that i ran out of and ARP thread lube. I was able to get the rod pistons assemblies in and torqued up. Got a torque wrench form a buddy that went to the 175ft/lb spec for the mains. Once the bottom end was all torqued and ready to go I moved to the top end. Set the head gasket in place and dropped the head on as well as torque it on. I then set to cleaning up the used timing cover i got to replace the one that was damaged. Once clean i installed it as well.

I spent the rest of the day cleaning hardware.

Pistons in:
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Head gasket ready for a coat of copper spray:
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Head gasket sprayed and laid in place (do not forget the two dowels, i did the first round)
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Head on and ready to go:
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No picture of the timing cover yet. I also plan to paint the head, oil cover and front cover.
 
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That looks sweet. I bet the 175ftlbs was a fun time! That sounds like a two person job. How did you fnd the copper spray to work with? Ive never used it before, but think its a good idea for water and oil leaks to help seal them up.

Yeah it was not as bad as one would think, just had the be at the right angle and use one hand the brace the block from moving while pulling with the other. I found the head bolts to more of a challenge at 65ft/lbs then 90* that took two people. The copper spray gasket has always worked well for me, I used it on my 600hp supra as well and never had an issue. On this engine i felt it even more of a benefit since the block and head where not machined, it fills in all the fine scuffs and irregularities really well. I also use it on all the paper gaskets as a added insurance against oil and coolant leaks.
 
Looks good!

On your new timing cover, check it carefully for cracks around the bolt holes at the 7 - 11 o'clock position while facing engine. It may be a 4BD2 issue only, but I have seen 3 with cracks at the bolt holes.

With the IP gear slinging oil all around inside, a small crack makes a big mess in a hurry. My engine was really dirty around the IP when I bought it. I thought it was PS fluid, and after I ran it for a while, thought the IP gasket I changed was leaking, so I changed it...Nope! Then I found the crack, took the cover off and welded it up and no more issue.

Can't wait to hear her run and see how that turbo works.

Doug
 
Looks good!

On your new timing cover, check it carefully for cracks around the bolt holes at the 7 - 11 o'clock position while facing engine. It may be a 4BD2 issue only, but I have seen 3 with cracks at the bolt holes.

With the IP gear slinging oil all around inside, a small crack makes a big mess in a hurry. My engine was really dirty around the IP when I bought it. I thought it was PS fluid, and after I ran it for a while, thought the IP gasket I changed was leaking, so I changed it...Nope! Then I found the crack, took the cover off and welded it up and no more issue.

Can't wait to hear her run and see how that turbo works.

Doug

Thanks Doug!

Actually this cover is from a 4BD2TC so i will look it over carefully. I did not blast it before installing and think I'm going to remove it and do that before i get any further. Will be able to see any cracks much easier. Was it the aluminum cover you found cracks in or the cast one? The one I replaced is the cast iron one.

Cheers,

Jeremy
 
Aluminum cover near the PS pump area.

Doug
 
Lookin' good Jeremy!


On a side note, both my 89' and 90' engine don't have that starter adapter like yours. That's pretty cool, never seen one.

Don
 
Lookin' good Jeremy!

On a side note, both my 89' and 90' engine don't have that starter adapter like yours. That's pretty cool, never seen one.

Don

Thanks Don! Working slowly and steadily on it.

Interesting I had no idea there was a difference. I had another one by mistake and sold it but did not think to check, thought they where all the same. Does this mean there is a nice 2 bolt low profile starter that i can fit? Lol
 
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