Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

[Polar Bear]

I dont know how you would sand blast the inside,

http://www.kmstools.com/eastwood-internal-exhaust-coating-18297

Don't know if it's even applicable to this, but extrude honing is the process by which you "sandblast" the interior of a part to increase flow. It's like a gritty toothpaste passed through the passageways under high pressure. The process smoothes out any roughness or irregularities in the casting process and increases air flow when used in an intake manifold.

Typically it's only used on racing applications where that final 0.5% of performance is reached.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Don't know if it's even applicable to this, but extrude honing is the process by which you "sandblast" the interior of a part to increase flow. It's like a gritty toothpaste passed through the passageways under high pressure. The process smoothes out any roughness or irregularities in the casting process and increases air flow when used in an intake manifold.

Typically it's only used on racing applications where that final 0.5% of performance is reached.

Its very cost prohibative. But does a good job, not for this aplication though.

 

[gerg]

Part of the process of preping a surface for ceramic coatings involves sandblasting with 120 or so grit silica. Its etches the substrate for a better bond. Ceramics dont bond easily to things, its actually a tedious process. Ive only applied it to exterior parts and you can easily tell areas that wernt prepped properly. The stuff just falls off in big flakes. When done correctly, its extremely durable and pretty much needs sand paper or the like to remove it.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yes that's is a critical step in the process, my brand new manifold will need to be blasted as pre coating. Another critical step that will make or beak the quality of the coating is removing all the oil that is deposited by you hands while handing.

 

[gerg]

Fortunately your manifold should fit in your oven if your wifey lets ya. I use to try and bake mine in an old bbq I had but was way too hard to get a consistant temp at 300F. I often had bunt oil patches which is ubber hard to get off of the metal. I did cheat a few times when my wife wasnt looking and used our oven. I plumbed in 220 under my patio for a future crapola oven for this stuff. I used white gas as a residueless cleaner as its cheap and very available. I use to do a multi step degreasing process followed by the bake to clear the oil. Its was well worth the time as a delam failure is quite dissapointing after all the time and effort. When you get the hang of it coating stuff yourself is actually quite money cheap, but it is quite time expensive. Like most of the stuff we do I guess heh.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Sounds like a job for a self cleaning oven cycle.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Fortunately your manifold should fit in your oven if your wifey lets ya. I use to try and bake mine in an old bbq I had but was way too hard to get a consistant temp at 300F. I often had bunt oil patches which is ubber hard to get off of the metal. I did cheat a few times when my wife wasnt looking and used our oven. I plumbed in 220 under my patio for a future crapola oven for this stuff. I used white gas as a residueless cleaner as its cheap and very available. I use to do a multi step degreasing process followed by the bake to clear the oil. Its was well worth the time as a delam failure is quite dissapointing after all the time and effort. When you get the hang of it coating stuff yourself is actually quite money cheap, but it is quite time expensive. Like most of the stuff we do I guess heh.

Yeah I plan to bake even the brand new Isuzu manifold when I get it. Im going to do the manifold and turbine at the same time so i need to get on my turbine housing. I need to get a 2.5" v band so I can get one side welded to the turbine and the Volvo T3 flange machined down so it fits the standard T3 correctly. Will try and get that project going later this week.

I have used a large commercial oven in the past to cook the ceramic on at about 750f for 6 hours. The prep always takes the longest but it has a direct effect on the final outcome. Im also going to spray the centre section of the turbo to keep it from rusting. The compressor cover will be coated one of two colours one is the gray I have used on the rest of the motor so far. The other is well you will just have to wait and see .

 

[gerg]

Sounds cool. To evaporate the oil from the metal that it hasto be 300f and not hotter for about an hour as the oil can easily burn onto the metal and gives it a golden smooth texture which is damn near impossible to remove. Most internal coatings ive used recomended 300-350f cure temps while external coatings you pretty much have to use a cleaning cycle to ge an oven hot enought to get close to curing it. I once wraped an old bbq in tin foil jsut to see how hot it can get... well after 15 minutes or so I wondered why there was water running out of the back of the thing... its wasnt water, but rather the whole bbq melted and dripped all over my sidewalk. It was a little hard to explain that to my wife. Sure cured the ceramics though!

I was just talking to a guy from kool coat in port kells about doing that 1fzfe head and he quoted me 25$ per cylinder to do combustion chamber and valve faces. 8 day turn around. Pretty reasonable actually so im going to go for it. Sadly he wanted 25$ each runner, so doing the exhaust and intake runners would be out of the question for me. I want to turbo it later and want the option of running s***e gas in it rather than the pricey stuff if I dont boost it too hard. like 6-8lbs with a HG comperssion drop too.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Sounds cool. To evaporate the oil from the metal that it hasto be 300f and not hotter for about an hour as the oil can easily burn onto the metal and gives it a golden smooth texture which is damn near impossible to remove. Most internal coatings ive used recomended 300-350f cure temps while external coatings you pretty much have to use a cleaning cycle to ge an oven hot enought to get close to curing it. I once wraped an old bbq in tin foil jsut to see how hot it can get... well after 15 minutes or so I wondered why there was water running out of the back of the thing... its wasnt water, but rather the whole bbq melted and dripped all over my sidewalk. It was a little hard to explain that to my wife. Sure cured the ceramics though!

I was just talking to a guy from kool coat in port kells about doing that 1fzfe head and he quoted me 25$ per cylinder to do combustion chamber and valve faces. 8 day turn around. Pretty reasonable actually so im going to go for it. Sadly he wanted 25$ each runner, so doing the exhaust and intake runners would be out of the question for me. I want to turbo it later and want the option of running s***e gas in it rather than the pricey stuff if I dont boost it too hard. like 6-8lbs with a HG comperssion drop too.

Thanks for the tip on the temp for evaporating oil, ill have to do that job one day the wife is out of the house . Im going to bake on the coating as well probably just at 450ish then let the running engine do the rest of the heat curing.

I use a sheet of tinfoil on my grill to burn everything off, it woks great! Cleans the entire BBQ out lol not to the point of melting though haha.

I would not bother dropping the compression on the 1FZ any lower its already 8.5:1 perfect for gas turbo. Also not sure about coating the head, is it really worth it or need it? I could see doing the piston tops maybe. I have never done it myself though. How is the fuel management going to be handled? Maybe we should talk about that when you come over to keep this thread on track.

 

[gerg]

Yeah best chat about it when I see ya. Just to clarify... umm cooking metals and cermics in your oven is not at all healthy. The stuff is sort of toxic. I actually felt quite guilty doing it and am not really sure of the consiquences. Being a Nurse and all it was actually kind of retarded, but I was in a jam.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yeah best chat about it when I see ya. Just to clarify... umm cooking metals and cermics in your oven is not at all healthy. The stuff is sort of toxic. I actually felt quite guilty doing it and am not really sure of the consiquences. Being a Nurse and all it was actually kind of retarded, but I was in a jam.

Yeah sounds good.

Its very toxic, the curing of the ceramic will be done in a BBQ out side. For the prep ill probably use the stove to burn off the oil after I blast it. I wish I still had my powder coat oven.....and the powder coat equipment for that mater lol. The coat I got will air dry and be durable till its baked on a running engine.

Anyways turbo is dropped off with friend for balancing. They actually have a machine that holds the entire assembled CHRA and feeds it oil and uses a huge air supply to spin it up and dynamically balance i think he said. Should be good but is going to take a week or two. Well see how the turbine is if it hit the housing hard enough there is a chance it bent the shaft ever so slightly. If thats the case ill get a new one.

I also picked up the last of my bolts that i ordered from Isuzu and the ones i ordered for the oil filter relocation.

 

[gerg]

Man that would be fun to watch, the turbine balancing that is. Did you get a 360 thrust bearing just incase you want to jack the boost later? The external coatings are so much more forgiving to deal with.

You in the garage this weekend? Ill drop by and slow your progress while I hit you up for irritating gas turbo advice. Its funny cus as soon as you mentioned fuel controll system I sort of got a little angry. I personally feel engines should never have electrical devices added to them on principal, or require any electricity other than to start. But air start would be the best I guess. Im trying to have a good attitude towards my new to me fzj80 and give it a fair shot, but I just want a diesel agian. I hate makeing deals with my wife. I said no swap for at least a year. Bugger!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Man that would be fun to watch, the turbine balancing that is. Did you get a 360 thrust bearing just incase you want to jack the boost later? The external coatings are so much more forgiving to deal with.

You in the garage this weekend? Ill drop by and slow your progress while I hit you up for irritating gas turbo advice. Its funny cus as soon as you mentioned fuel controll system I sort of got a little angry. I personally feel engines should never have electrical devices added to them on principal, or require any electricity other than to start. But air start would be the best I guess. Im trying to have a good attitude towards my new to me fzj80 and give it a fair shot, but I just want a diesel agian. I hate makeing deals with my wife. I said no swap for at least a year. Bugger!

Yeah would be sweet to see done, cant though. It does sound very cool though, when i worked there 10 years ago they just did the traditional balancing. Things have changed a lot though in that time.

Yeah ill be working in it Saturday, a weekend free of baby showers, engagement parties and weddings. They seem to be in short supply this year. Call me Saturday and give you directions, will be there working on it by 10.

Yes turboing a gasser is kind of different than a diesel lol. Ill go over it all with you when i see you, prepare your wife for disappointment, you may break that promise.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Sorry Gerg missed your question about the thrust bearing. The TD04's come factory with a 360 thrust so no upgrade needed

The balancing machine is called a VSR as well, look it up on Youtube they look cool.

 

[gerg]

Sounds like its going to be a great little turbo. Im looking forward to seeing how it performs. Now we just have to see if we can fit a comound in a bread box... or smaller than a bread box! I think that engine can top out at 200hp fuel wise. Sounds like fun.

 

[Dougal]

Sounds like its going to be a great little turbo. Im looking forward to seeing how it performs. Now we just have to see if we can fit a comound in a bread box... or smaller than a bread box! I think that engine can top out at 200hp fuel wise. Sounds like fun.

200hp is easy. 250hp should be possible on the stock pump with a TD04HL-19T if you get everything right.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yes I'm hoping to be in the 200hp plus range with this turbo and supporting mods. Im trying to optimize everything now while i am doing it instead of coming back and doing it over or spending money twice. I think and hope this little turbo will do it. I have been impressed with MHI turbos before on other projects. It helps they are dead nuts simple units to build modify and swap parts on.

I honestly do not have the room or the drive to make a compound setup at the moment. Maybe someday when a 12mm pump falls into the engine

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Picked up my injectors today! They look like new, one nozzle was bypassing to much fuel so it needs to be replaced. Going to order that next week.

 

[gerg]

Well Im pretty interested in your build and seeing how it works out. I might have a bit of drive to help fit a compound into your truck. I Pretty much know its possible just looking at mine, but the crappy thing is it would most likely involve a signifigant amount of trial and error fitting to get it to squeeze in there. I think putting the exhaust to the firewall is a step forward. I fi were to go your route it would require this, so im really hopefule it works out. You could say im sort of vested in your sucess. Ill give you a call sat for sure. I cant hang out long as its gramas 90th brthday and I have about 12hrs of yard care to get ready for it on Sun. I hate parties.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Also ordered all the fittings for the TD04 turbo to attach water lines and oil feed/return.

Then I made the big purchase and ordered a Turbo Smart actuator for a 2003 Cummins. Reason for getting the cummins one over the universal is the universal only comes with a 11psi spring the Cummins has a 26psi spring. To get that spring pressure in the universal I would need to ad two more springs at a cost of $30 each. The Cummins actuator also has a long actuator rod so I have lots to work with.

Its interesting the way the Turbo Smart Actuator is set up to change springs, there are 3 different sized springs (inner, middle and outer) you basically select the springs you want to get the boost pressure you require. I will not be running the 26psi combo to start, going to start at 15psi then move up. Its quick and relatively easy to swap them out. No finicky Allen head bolts to get started wile trying to hold the sprung cap down.

Once I get all the parts and the turbo back I can start laying it all out and routing hoses and building a actuator bracket.