Is this worth fixing? (LX470) (1 Viewer)

[PrinceJabar]

Hello, I’m new to this forum, I have a 1998 LX470 with 179000 miles on the odo. This car is a vehicle I have grown up with and I would like to possible fix it up and maybe get some over landing done. She has definitely not been treated well at all my parents and I am unsure of whether it is even worth fixing. If someone could give me some advice or let me know what it could sell for please do.

Note: has new tires and a brand new master cylinder, tb has not been done ever to my knowledge. Another thing is master window switch gave out but I have found a replacement. There is some undercarriage rust and rust near the windshield.

 

[PrinceJabar]

More pics

 

[LandForce1]

Can you provide undercarriage pics of the rust? What exactly needs to be fixed? Looks pretty sweet on the surface to me-

 

[LandForce1]

I can see a bit of rust in door jambs now along with rear hatch. Would you have to buy it from your parents or would they gift it to you?

 

[PrinceJabar]

I can see a bit of rust in door jambs now along with rear hatch. Would you have to buy it from your parents or would they gift it to you?

It would be gifted to me, not much of a gift but got a special place for land cruisers. Maybe around 2k for now to repair, I’m thinking of sanding off the rust and replacing panels and trunk from a junkyard. Then top it off with monstaliner. Need some advice on some rust on the roof near the windshield

 

[PrinceJabar]

I’m going to be testing abc and flushing it soon, I’m considering changing the brake line when I do the oil change that is coming up. Have a couple spare parts such as ac line in my basement

 

[PrinceJabar]

I’m not to see about this

 

[ktmracer01]

You haven't listed much that is wrong with it other than rust developing in some areas on the body, rust on the undercarriage, and the window switch. Does it run?

Personally, if anyone was to offer me a 100 series LC or an LX free and clear, i'd be all over it in a heartbeat.

Just from the photos, it looks like you need to do some work to it, but as long as you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty, most of the work you should be able to do yourself. I'd probably fix the exhaust hanger that is causing it to touch the driveshaft, change fluids, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, grease it up well, and drive it as is. Address the rust as time and budget allows. If you're already planning on putting some type of liner on it, have a body shop patch the rust ( or do it yourself), and line it.

 

[bpe3]

I know folks around here like fixing stuff, but...

There’s a time in every vehicle’s life when if you shift it into drive and it starts moving forward, then no repairs are needed. For this particular rig, that time may be right now. I say drive her as is until she refuses to move another inch. In the meantime, take the money you’d spend fixing this rig and deposit it in a savings account to buy a cleaner LC/LX as soon as you can afford it.

 

[UltraFJ40]

I too would be all over that. Rust can be addressed and honestly I do not see too much of it that is debilitating, just surface rust which can be addressed quite easily. Keep it and drive the wheels off of it. Once you get to 300K on the clock then consider a change. That is my opinion.

 

[2001LC]

SORRY, but I do see a lot of bad rust. Rust that tells me there's much I can't see. The rust is a show stopper for me. I see and surmise many issue even with limited info and pictures.

But you're in the rust belt, and as such may be able to live with rust. If so, you need to address some area now:

1. First is timing belt which looks like your crank/cam seals need done while in there along with tensioner, pulleys and water pump. Not a big deal, but get it done.
2. The fact T-belts not been tells me this is a under maintained rig and as such coolant systems not been flushed every two years. This could spell trouble with electrolysis. While flushing replace heater tees and thermostat.
3. The PCV valve, grommet and hoses along with all vacuum lines need addressing.
4. Looks like steering rack is also leaking (can't say for sure as so much oil under front). You need to address it's leaks and mounts. Again being under maintained and I'll bet fluids not been regular flushed.
5. Have wheel and axle bearing & bushing been service as required every 30K miles. Get too it.
6. Flush that AHC soon as well. Adjusting T-bar may be a big issue based on rust I see.
7. The windshield area rust is a big deal. I'll bet it has some perforation that a body shop will need to address. You may already be getting water entry which can mess with electronics.
8. Undoubtedly the stabilizer system is shot. Have fun with those rusty bolts.
9. How are those brake lines and calipers. Need rebuilding or replacing I'll bet.
10. AC lines well become issue if not already. Fun stuff even with rust.

The rear hatch is the least of your worries, but good luck finding a good one. I see rust not only on frame but under body panels. This tells me bolts and parts all over this rig will be problematic ever time you (or someone) turns a wrench.

I could go on and list even more but the above is what needs done soon. If you wrench you know dealing with rust increase your workload, time & cost of parts and tools greatly. If you don't, then your cost of repairs goes up due to rust.

Under maintain rigs don't scare me, if there has been some regularity in fluid flushes/changes. And much of what I listed is just normal PM. But combine that with rust and I'd just dump it on CL and buy a rust free rig.

What you have is a money pit. That will have very minimal value, no matter how much money you throw at it.

 

[Rolocado]

Poor thing...

 

[flintknapper]

Awe.....I feel sorry for it.


Yes, you could 'save it'....but it will be ever the work in progress.

Paint color Smoky Topaz?

 

[PrinceJabar]

SORRY, but I do see a lot of bad rust. Rust that tells me there's much I can't see. The rust is a show stopper for me. I see and surmise many issue even with limited info and pictures.

But you're in the rust belt, and as such may be able to live with rust. If so, you need to address some area now:

1. First is timing belt which looks like your crank/cam seals need done while in there along with tensioner, pulleys and water pump. Not a big deal, but get it done.
2. The fact T-belts not been tells me this is a under maintained rig and as such coolant systems not been flushed every two years. This could spell trouble with electrolysis. While flushing replace heater tees and thermostat.
3. The PCV valve, grommet and hoses along with all vacuum lines need addressing.
4. Looks like steering rack is also leaking (can't say for sure as so much oil under front). You need to address it's leaks and mounts. Again being under maintained and I'll bet fluids not been regular flushed.
5. Have wheel and axle bearing & bushing been service as required every 30K miles. Get too it.
6. Flush that AHC soon as well. Adjusting T-bar may be a big issue based on rust I see.
7. The windshield area rust is a big deal. I'll bet it has some perforation that a body shop will need to address. You may already be getting water entry which can mess with electronics.
8. Undoubtedly the stabilizer system is shot. Have fun with those rusty bolts.
9. How are those brake lines and calipers. Need rebuilding or replacing I'll bet.
10. AC lines well become issue if not already. Fun stuff even with rust.

The rear hatch is the least of your worries, but good luck finding a good one. I see rust not only on frame but under body panels. This tells me bolts and parts all over this rig will be problematic ever time you (or someone) turns a wrench.

I could go on and list even more but the above is what needs done soon. If you wrench you know dealing with rust increase your workload, time & cost of parts and tools greatly. If you don't, then your cost of repairs goes up due to rust.

Under maintain rigs don't scare me, if there has been some regularity in fluid flushes/changes. And much of what I listed is just normal PM. But combine that with rust and I'd just dump it on CL and buy a rust free rig.

What you have is a money pit. That will have very minimal value, no matter how much money you throw at it.

This is exactly the stuff I was worried about. I’ve given my parents a lot of flak over the under maintained but I guess they never really cared much since they did buy it for pretty cheap in 2003. Anyway I’ve been trying to figure out what the going rate is for this condition rig if someone could help me with that I’d appreciate it.

 

[PrinceJabar]

You haven't listed much that is wrong with it other than rust developing in some areas on the body, rust on the undercarriage, and the window switch. Does it run?

Personally, if anyone was to offer me a 100 series LC or an LX free and clear, i'd be all over it in a heartbeat.

Just from the photos, it looks like you need to do some work to it, but as long as you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty, most of the work you should be able to do yourself. I'd probably fix the exhaust hanger that is causing it to touch the driveshaft, change fluids, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, grease it up well, and drive it as is. Address the rust as time and budget allows. If you're already planning on putting some type of liner on it, have a body shop patch the rust ( or do it yourself), and line it.

It does still run and drive smoothly with new brake pads. I was kind of planning on just replacing the whole panel and then lining it, if I decide to keep it. Unless patching is cheaper (found a fender for $100)

 

[2001LC]

Just look at KBB & NADA for your area.

 

[PrinceJabar]

Just look at KBB & NADA for your area.

Already have, would 3.5-4K be reasonable?

 

[PrinceJabar]

Bump. Still would like some more opinions.

 

[jdayment]

I would keep it and do preventative maintenance on the rust and most of the regular maintenance mentioned can be done by yourself not too hard to do and it sounds like you are handy already based on your description of repairing the bad rust. I would be all over a free Landcruiser any model.

 

[TXLX100]

Bump. Still would like some more opinions.

It has body and frame rust. If it was a 40 series, I'd say start fixing it up. You could buy a really nice 100 series with zero rust for less than $10k and be headache free.