Is this normal? (2 Viewers)

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Austin, Texas
I cannot seem to find an answer through the search. Is it normal to have the voltage gauge respond to every turn signal rotation?

Without my lights on my amps are right in the middle, if I have them on it jumps down to a quarter, then every turn signal it jumps down an eight or so. Is this normal or is my battery or alternator on the way out?
 
Mine does the same. Every tick of the turn signal moves the needle. There are some guys on here that know more about electronics than me but I would say that is normal. Don't be too worried.
 
Every time the incandescent lights flash there is about a 2 amp surge that can cause the amp gauge to fluctuate.
Make sure all connections are clean and tight with good grounds.
LED's can reduce a lot of amp draw.
 
I gave up watching mine dance decades ago. Been thinking of switching to LED but haven’t done it yet.
 
Still dances with LED. :smokin:

To the OP; it is normal. Here is a good Ammeter video from Mr. Rudi, @bj40green > Ammeter video <
Wow, perfect video - thanks. That’s exactly how mine functions. However - when my headlights are on and also using the blinker, the turn signal will go extremely slow and even freeze on like it does not have a enough juice. That’s what led me to believe that my battery is weak or maybe there is a bad ground or something?
 
Still dances with LED. :smokin:

To the OP; it is normal. Here is a good Ammeter video from Mr. Rudi, @bj40green > Ammeter video <
Not arguing but... I converted a car to electric years ago and for the first year and a half the 12 volt system was just a deep cycle battery with no charging system.
On the occasions I was out after dark the head lights would dim when brakes were applied or flicker with a turn signal.
Installed all LED's except for head lights and the dim/flicker went away.
Never paid any attention when I put LED's in the 40 but if the amp gauge does bounce it is so slight I haven't noticed.
In the vid he is working with engine off and everything works normal.
Should have fired up the engine to show gauge move over to the plus side, level off, then go through the sequence again.
 
Not arguing but... I converted a car to electric years ago and for the first year and a half the 12 volt system was just a deep cycle battery with no charging system.
On the occasions I was out after dark the head lights would dim when brakes were applied or flicker with a turn signal.
Installed all LED's except for head lights and the dim/flicker went away.
Never paid any attention when I put LED's in the 40 but if the amp gauge does bounce it is so slight I haven't noticed.
In the vid he is working with engine off and everything works normal.
Should have fired up the engine to show gauge move over to the plus side, level off, then go through the sequence again.

Maybe "Dancing" isn't the appropriate word. For my rig, I have LED's through out the system. With the engine running, when I turn the blinkers on, the Ammeter needle moves with every turn signal rotation/pulse of the lights.
 
Maybe "Dancing" isn't the appropriate word. For my rig, I have LED's through out the system. With the engine running, when I turn the blinkers on, the Ammeter needle moves with every turn signal rotation/pulse of the lights.
Can you tell if the amp needle is moving less with the LED's than it did with incandescent lights?
Seeing as how needle movement is the norm on these old Cruisers you probably have no problem.
While LED's are great, they are not a cure all for electrical issues.
There is still an amp draw with LED's just not as much.
As has been stated many times, check grounds.
On my 350 the neg is grounded to the block so am getting good connection there but a ground strap from block to body makes a world of difference for lights and other accessories grounded to body.
 

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