Is there such thing as a cheap 100?

[Sandroad]

“The vehicle may be affordable but the upkeep may not be.” (Cruiser Dan)

Parts common with other vehicles or for routine maintenance may be reasonably priced, but some LC/LX specific repair parts can be breathtaking in cost. As the mileage and age pile up, it's getting to the point a single repair (brake booster/master cylinder comes to mind) could cost more than a particular truck is worth.

 

[creege]

Good luck with your base lining . . . Keep us posted. I Just bought a Thundercloud metallic 2001 LC with 178k for $7200, knowing It had an exhaust leak and probably needed some attention in the front wheel bearings. He told me it needs a front break job, which in my pessimistic mind means pads AND rotors. The only record he had was a TB/water pump/valve cover gasket replacement 6 years ago. Also there's a "clunk" in the transfer" case when going into drive and reverse. My 94 has had the same sound for years. I hope that one doesn't come back to bite me. I had to trust him on the routine maintenance, said he used all synthetic lubes and Toyota red coolant. That was just a gut feeling on my part. No blow by gas at filler cap, smooth shifting and acceleration. He was asking 8k, I drove 4 hours to get it. I probably should of offered less because now it is confirmed that both manifolds leak and I haven't even touched the TB/water-pump yet. As I'm typing , my mechanic called, what I thought was front bearings was axle/flange wear. both sides need to be replaced, that's another 1,000 parts/labor. It also has a known TSB; continuous alarm noise from combination meter. In layman's terms its a whining noise coming from the steering column area right at startup. Lots of info on this site regarding that problem. That's another 1k to fix. I haven't read anything that says it's bad or dangerous to leave it as is, so I probably will wait on that fix. I hope I'm done for a while. $2200 in repairs and that's not including TB/water pump.

 

[87warrior]

When I started 100 shopping I had a $15k budget in mind, but really wanted to stay under $12k. What I found was most of the 100's at the high end of my budget needed what I view as the 'second round' of maintenance done: timing belt, brakes and tires. I generally found the same to be true for the $9k 100, they just usually had rougher interiors and flaws in the body. While rare, I found a handful of 'budget' cruisers around $6k. These usually had +250k miles needing the same 'second round' maintenance items as the more expensive cruisers, with worn interiors and some rust.

I ended up with a 'budget' cruiser for my first cruiser and first Toyota. Maybe I have low standards, but the $6k cruiser I ended up with surpassed my expectations. Even with 246k miles and close to on time dealer maintenance records (including TB/WP), it had bad shocks, a failing steering rack, loose ball joints, bald tires, rusted in 1/2 swaybar links, loose wheel bearings, rocker panel rust and a worn interior... the Cruiser drove great and hauled me 3 hours back home. I'm at $1,400 in repairs and think it is back in great shape, better than the $10-15k cruisers I was eyeing with exception of the worn interior and rust. I'd trust it cross country on or off road without question.

 

[grampswrx]

Wow! These are great answers. I think I will try to stay at the low end of my budget so I can do things at my leisure. I think I would rather have a $6k cruiser that I do the TB/WP, tires, shocks and stereo on than a $9k cruiser which will need the same stuff but be lower miles/newer. It will be easier to bite off the pieces in small chunks too, rather than dropping all $10k at the same time. Better $6k here then $1000 at a time. The wife won't notice as much that way.

 

[WarWagon]

I just returned home from the garage today; TB, water pump, spark plugs, front and rear diff top off, tranny fluid check (bit dirty so I'm thinking a flush next). I paid 4K for it and drove it back home 12 hours a week ago.

I've got some interior wear to clean up, a clunk like you have shifting to D, rocker panel rust (last on list), cracked front bumper to adhesive up, front end bushings that need replacing, and a wheel bearing that's gonna need replacing eventually.

Biggest issues on my list were the TB and water pump along with new Denso plugs. I feel better now, and I can slowly address all the other issues!

 

[bctlex]

Wow! These are great answers. I think I will try to stay at the low end of my budget so I can do things at my leisure. I think I would rather have a $6k cruiser that I do the TB/WP, tires, shocks and stereo on than a $9k cruiser which will need the same stuff but be lower miles/newer. It will be easier to bite off the pieces in small chunks too, rather than dropping all $10k at the same time. Better $6k here then $1000 at a time. The wife won't notice as much that way.

Yep I came up to the same conclusions too.

If you willing to do some research here, and do the work yourself, you can save a lot of cash. I am guessing that since I owned mine (1 year this month), this awesome forum and its members have saved me more than $1K in labor cost. I like to spread out the cost, but mostly because I do not have time to work on it every weekend. Every month I try to do something - flush fluids, changes shocks, installed new tires, etc. I am not an expert by all means - and I just have some basic tools.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Here's my strategy, FWIW: look in a really affluent area, for one which has only ever been used as a luxury SUV, for shopping and maybe ski trips.

I bought mine in that way (98 LC, 167K miles) from a company owner who never gave a second thought to the cost of maintaining it - the dealer was able to print out the entire service record for me. PO just parked it outside his house and put a 'For Sale' sign in the back window. $10.5K including 4 extra wheels and snow tires. All it needed was a baseline service and 4 new shocks (OEM, $50 each). I've proactively replaced things since then, some of which aren't cheap (e.g. the starter motor as soon as it began occasionally to need more than just one turn of the key), but my goal is to be driving something that's as reliable on both freeways and dirt as a brand new vehicle and so far that has proved, even with one of the oldest 100 series on the road, entirely doable.

When I think about the cost I compare it directly to the $90K or whatever Toyota charges for a new LC today, plus the fact that I can laugh off getting 'pinstripes' on the side of this rig, which would not be nearly so amusing on a new vehicle.

Almost the same exact story for me. Miles. Price. And year. Previous owner was an airline pilot and it was a mall cruiser for his wife I suspect. They bought it new. I have it for 16 months now with zero issues. I did take a couple hours and throw on new OEM shocks just as you did.....I felt I got a great value in the purchase.

 

[Spanktron9]

I bought my 99 two years ago with 249K on the clock and maintenence folder over an inch thick. PO drove it back and forth across country multiple times per year visiting family. The maintenence folder had "highway flyer" written on it. Totally rust free. normal wear on leather and speaker covers, paint chips. I paid $7k, they were asking $8200. I don't think the truck ever saw dirt before I got it. Its now fully built out and pushing 270K, I told myself if it makes 300k before losing the engine or tranny, I did well, as they are easy to replace.
Another thought, if you are looking to build the truck don't worry about rigs with parking lot damage and damaged bumper covers. You'll be putting on real steel soon enough and scratching up the paint on trails. SoCal should have all clean, rust free rigs. I agree with other Mudders who say buy from wealthy private owners, who did the maintenance and used them as shopping carts.

 

[goldmember]

i love in so cal too. i also wanted a "cheap" cruiser after my tacoma got totaled (got hit while parked). My budget was an absolute max of $15,000. but reallyi wanted one for 10k. i found mine on craigs list. the guy wanted $12,500. i looked at it. excellent condition. interior was flawless, he had service records including timing belt at 120k. the truck only had 127k on it. i talked him down to $10,800. Only thing i had to do was tires. it had good ones on it, lots of meat left, but they were passenger michelins! so i had to drop a grand on some bfg at ko 2s. outside of that, its solid. i plan on changing out the fluids, mainly diffs.

so i guess lesson here is, be patient and keep looking for the right one. i got pretty lucky with mine i guess. more or less, turn the key and go.

good luck

 

[MauiUZJ]

Paid 4K. Truck is a 1998 LX470 with 198k.
Timing belt had never been done.
Rear u-joint was totally failed.
Front diff mounts clunk going into reverse or drive.
Body is straight, & rust free.
OME lift springs rear, & nitro sport shocks all around.
Nearly new 285 BFG AT's.

Truck needs a lot of TLC under the hood and through the drivetrain.

Replaced the u-joints, the Timing belt and water pump & front main seal & tightened the valve cover gaskets so far.

It Runs really well, but rides like a 1-ton truck empty on bad roads....

Looking to fix all the known issues, install LC stock suspension parts w. New shocks, and all maintenance baselined for around $1.5k, so I'll be $5.5k into it.

Then to drive it, off-road it, & begin modding & planning upgrades for off-road island crawling...

 

[WarWagon]

$2750 with a couple of love taps on the DS panels

157K miles

 

[cek347]

With a forum like this, I felt very comfortable picking up an LX that did not have much history with it. '99 LX, 194k. The previous owner (2nd owner) drove it very little over the past 6 years and didn't even know the suspension went up and down. I went from no knowledge to being able to diagnose the bouncy suspension and the associated costs with AHC and was able to use that to negotiate. This forum is so awesome. So many problems have been solved here. Any of the cars I have been into, VW's, Mercedes, 4runners. They are all enthusiasts vehicles. Enthusiast vehicles have great forums and great DIYs.

I've bought and sold a few used cars over the years. I find that I end up spending the same to bring them back (baseline) no matter the initial investment. Is it rare to find a car with detailed records? For me yes. Even from a dealer. My 2 items that really scare me from a cheap used vehicle are leaks and bad rust.

 

[KYLandy]

I gave $19,500 for my 2006 LC with 114k miles on it just a few months ago. It had been serviced at the dealer at all scheduled times, including a new timing belt and water pump. The Total MSRP as equipped when it was brand new was $67,381. I think I got a pretty good deal. It has all the options, including AVS with AHC, RSE with wireless headphones, rear spoiler and roof rack, NAV screen, convenience package glass, sunroof wind deflector for a total of $10,136 in options.

It was a rust belt truck and there is some surface rust underneath (but none on the body) and some bad cats but I've spent less than $700 doing a bunch of little minor repairs like power outlets, bad front height sensor, broke rear hatch handle, center diff switch replacement, replaced telescoping steering wheel motor. Interior is near perfect and it runs great.

 

[AMGAndrew]

I gave $19,500 for my 2006 LC with 114k miles on it just a few months ago. It had been serviced at the dealer at all scheduled times, including a new timing belt and water pump. The Total MSRP as equipped when it was brand new was $67,381. I think I got a pretty good deal. It has all the options, including AVS with AHC, RSE with wireless headphones, rear spoiler and roof rack, NAV screen, convenience package glass, sunroof wind deflector for a total of $10,136 in options.

It was a rust belt truck and there is some surface rust underneath (but none on the body) and some bad cats but I've spent less than $700 doing a bunch of little minor repairs like power outlets, bad front height sensor, broke rear hatch handle, center diff switch replacement, replaced telescoping steering wheel motor. Interior is near perfect and it runs great.

Is that the opposite of cheap perspective for the OP? Hahaha. Just shows that even if you spend $20k, there can still be little issues that need to be taken care of.

I bought my average condition, zero rust LX in May of '16 from the original owner with 215k miles for $5500 but it had zero records. To date, all-in money out of pocket is under $6500. All base lined, new battery, couple of oil changes... everything. But I wrench everything myself and that makes a big difference since I can source the OE supplier parts myself cheaper than what I could get at the dealer or indy mechanic.

They CAN be cheap if you buy the right one and are willing to do the work. Fuel will probably be your biggest lifetime expense, so plan accordingly.

 

[KYLandy]

Book value was around $22k, so yeah, I got a deal. All used cars need work but mine has a ton of life left in it. Low miles, fully serviced and in great shape. I bought it from a dealer or I would have gotten a lower price.

 

[Pinittowinit]

I paid 9 with shipping from Bay Area to Hawaii last year. 2000 LC 180k service records since new. Every oil change and all. WP/TB done early 90k,147k. Few dings here and there. Interior great condition, not one speck of rust anywhere. Not even on the tow mount. Needed tires.
Best 9 grand I have ever spent. Including my honeymoon hahaha

 

[highonpottery]

Wow, I still look and really haven't found any decent 100 for under $10k. Some of you guys are very lucky.
I paid $14k for ours 7 years ago with 115k on it...at a Toyota CPO dealership. I thought it was an incredible steal at the time after looking every other day for 4+ months and seeing nothing even close to the price. Aside from the normal maintenance, the only "fix" needed so far has been one coil pack and 2 o2 sensors - so really, it's been one of the cheapest vehicles I've ever owned.

 

[mattafact]

@punkrockpoppa picked up his 99 for $1500 with just a small tick in the engine. Has a rear locker too.

 

[MauiUZJ]

@punkrockpoppa picked up his 99 for $1500 with just a small tick in the engine. Has a rear locker too.

That's the best deal I've heard. Bet he needs to do the valve adjustment via shims...
He basically bought the locker & got the truck for free...

 

[2001LC]

I'd be interested in any data on valve adjustment. I've looked here for years and have yet to see anyone report them out of spec.

I just looked through @punkrockpoppa page any didn't see anything, perhaps you could like me to is @MauiUZJ? THX