Is there a way to remove knuckle + hub in one piece?

[RedTacoma]

I was wondering if somebody had attempted removal of Knuckle with the hub as one piece.
I can imagine I would have to remove top kingpin and bottom steering arm. Drive flange is the easy piece. I know top kingpin is hard to remove. I there any way to put some pressure to pop it up?
I am sure somebody had to do this on the trail ... .

 

[IBCRUSN]

Piece of cake. This will vary if you busted a birf and wish to remove the outer portion of the birf with the knuckle.

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove caliper
3. remove ABS connector (if you still have it)
4. remove dust seals
5. remove steering arm
6. remove upper trunnion cap
7. get a bag, box or pan to catch the soup and birf bits
8. Gently pull the whole assembly out

If you want to leave the birf installed (not broken) all you need to add to the above is pop the axle cap and remove the snap ring.

To install you'll want to have the axle cap and snap ring removed, remove star from axle, install spare birf, insert axle/birf assembly into housing rotate to engage splines, reinstall knuckle & hub assy and all other parts. Be sure to torque the important nuts/bolts. I left out the the cleaning and greasing part because you just gotta do it.

I considered posting pics of this up at one time but there are so few steps it's not worth it. It's a pretty easy job especially if you've had an axle apart before.

 

[kidglove13]

This is very interesting. I just re-did the bearings but now it seems that I need to do the trunion bearings and axle seals for good measure.
Could I do the trunion bearings and axle seals this way as well, it seems that you could do that.

 

[RedTacoma]

Piece of cake. This will vary if you busted a birf and wish to remove the outer portion of the birf with the knuckle.

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove caliper
3. remove ABS connector (if you still have it)
4. remove dust seals
5. remove steering arm
6. remove upper trunnion cap
7. get a bag, box or pan to catch the soup and birf bits
8. Gently pull the whole assembly out

If you want to leave the birf installed (not broken) all you need to add to the above is pop the axle cap and remove the snap ring.

To install you'll want to have the axle cap and snap ring removed, remove star from axle, install spare birf, insert axle/birf assembly into housing rotate to engage splines, reinstall knuckle & hub assy and all other parts. Be sure to torque the important nuts/bolts. I left out the the cleaning and greasing part because you just gotta do it.

I considered posting pics of this up at one time but there are so few steps it's not worth it. It's a pretty easy job especially if you've had an axle apart before.

Excellent
one more question about step 6
My trunnion cap is hard to remove.
I removed before by using brass bar from inside the knuckle which is impossible to do it if I am removing knuckle in one piece. Any suggestion ?

 

[KLF]

Just an additional note, I have done this way (referred to as the "Camo Method" on pirate) on mini-trucks, and that hub/knuckle assembly is HEAVY. It'll be worse on an 80, you might wanna have someone there to help catch it. Don't have any body parts under it!

 

[RedTacoma]

Just an additional note, I have done this way (referred to as the "Camo Method" on pirate) on mini-trucks, and that hub/knuckle assembly is HEAVY. It'll be worse on an 80, you might wanna have someone there to help catch it. Don't have any body parts under it!

Good point there, I did not think about that. That sucker is heavy on its own, add spindle, hub, rotor, bearings and must be easily 50 lb or more.

 

[zx9r]

So...could this method be used to replace just the external seal over the knuckle? Assuming it wasn't necessary to relube or replace any of the internal seals and bearings.

 

[IBCRUSN]

Could I do the trunion bearings and axle seals this way as well, it seems that you could do that.

Yes

Excellent
one more question about step 6
My trunnion cap is hard to remove.
I removed before by using brass bar from inside the knuckle which is impossible to do it if I am removing knuckle in one piece. Any suggestion ?

They are a close tolerance fit but a slight tappy-tap with a hammer to rotate the cap is usually all it takes to get it started and then gently pry while rotating back and forth with a flathead screwdriver or other such tool to remove.

That sucker is heavy on its own, add spindle, hub, rotor, bearings and must be easily 50 lb or more.

It's sort of heavy but not bad. If you compare them to either 3rd member they aren't too bad. Unless the truck is on a lift you shouldn't have precious body parts under the assembly as you're removing it.

So...could this method be used to replace just the external seal over the knuckle? Assuming it wasn't necessary to relube or replace any of the internal seals and bearings.

Sure. I know this will go against what most will say here in the 80 section but you can cut the rubber and felt seals and install with the split at the 12 o'clock position and they will work fine.

found some pics

drive flange doesn't need to come off, especially in the field.

trail repair - add more grease

trail repair - add more grease

The seal and felt haven't been installed yet. They were cut/split from a previous trail fix and don't leak so I reused them.

 

[zx9r]

Interesting IBCRUSN. So if you are saying it is possible to cut/split the seal/felt couldn't that actually be done without removing anything but the ring that secures them?

I am sure you are right that many of the forum will condemn us for even having this discussion... but in my case, I am on the beach a lot, driving in deep sand. I suspect I am getting a few grains of sand in the felt and losing my seal. I can't afford (time or money) to go thru the full rebuild every time this happens which could be more than once a year.

 

[IBCRUSN]

The ring, seal and felt will fall out of the back side of the knuckle anyway if the rings are removed and you pull the assembly away from the axle. In my case I needed to replace to seal and felt w/out pulling the knuckle earlier on to keep crap out. This was because when I did my re-gear I didn't need to replace the felts but two years later they needed it.

I agree. The vast majority with 80s don't or won't take their trucks into situations where birfs tend to break. I can definitely understand your position what with the negative effects sand can have on greased parts. Replacing the felts and seals each year is probably cheap insurance for a consistent beachcomber such as yourself.

 

[zx9r]

I think I will give it a try. If seals hold up even after they are split I'll be thrilled. Thanks for the idea!

 

[GvsB]

Sure. I know this will go against what most will say here in the 80 section but you can cut the rubber and felt seals and install with the split at the 12 o'clock position and they will work fine.

Is it necessary to glue the rubber seal back together or can it be left cut?

 

[zx9r]

I was thinking I'd just put some gasket seal in the slit area but gluing might be a better alternative...or do both... let's hear what someone with experience has to say.

 

[IBCRUSN]

I haven't found a need to glue or apply gasket sealer at all. The rubber seal will fit nicely over the top of the metal ring in the groove and the felt goes on fine. Once the felt has been on for a while there will be a grove and make reassembly the next time even easier.