Is the SOR stainless j pipe worth it?

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i am about to replace the j pipe for the egr in a 1987 fj60 and i was curious to know if it is money well spent to spring for the stainless one (i read that the SOR flange is better) or if i should just go the OEM route.

i have looked through various threads including ducks very detailed installation. i know to use an OEM gasket, but as for the actual pipe, i am torn whether it is worth it.

i am now in canada (BC) if that matters.

comments?

thanks,
g
 
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i am about to replace the j pipe for the egr in a 1987 fj60 and i was curious to know if it is money well spent to spring for the stainless one (i read that the SOR flange is better) or if i should just go the OEM route.

i have looked through various threads including ducks very detailed installation. i know to use an OEM gasket, but as for the actual pipe, i am torn whether it is worth it.

FWIW, a Toyota dealership replaced the gasket about 4 times and the actual J-tube with an OEM stock one twice. It was leaking when I bought it. I have a new SOR J tube in the garage right now waiting for install as soon as I get the broken bolt and broken bolt extractor out of the exhaust manifold where it bolts to.:doh:

I hope I never hear that tic tic tic again!
 
is the one your replacing the original one? how long did that one last?

I have no experiance with the stainless one.
 
According to records, mine has been serviced as follows:

6/07; 59,000 miles; Replace J tube and EGR gasket
8/98; 81,000 miles; Replace J tube and EGR gasket, sleeve, and nut
4/99; 89,000 miles; Replace EGR gasket
4/00; 99,000 miles; Replace J tube and EGR gasket, sleeve, and nut
7/01; 112,000 miles; Replace EGR gasket

1/09; 158,000 miles; Replace intake and exhaust manifold gasket, Studs, EGR gasket (OEM), SOR stainless J-tube gasket

Think there was a design flaw here?
 
According to records, mine has been serviced as follows:

6/07; 59,000 miles; Replace J tube and EGR gasket
8/98; 81,000 miles; Replace J tube and EGR gasket, sleeve, and nut
4/99; 89,000 miles; Replace EGR gasket
4/00; 99,000 miles; Replace J tube and EGR gasket, sleeve, and nut
7/01; 112,000 miles; Replace EGR gasket

1/09; 158,000 miles; Replace intake and exhaust manifold gasket, Studs, EGR gasket (OEM), SOR stainless J-tube gasket

Think there was a design flaw here?

i agree. too bad it is a pain in the ass to get to. my new to me rig has 175,000 miles and i am trying to check off a long list of "to dos".

i also have the classic stumble around 1800 rpm in all gears when i start the rig warm (doesn't happen when cold). i did not see any cracks in the intake manifold, but i am guessing a vacuum issue. i guess the next step is to bypass the egr and see if that helps anything.

is there anything else i should be sure to check while down in the egr neighborhood?
 
yes, the SOR stainless J pipe is money well spent.replace my '87 10years ago and still good:steer:
 
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yes, the SOR stainless J pipe is money well spent.replace my '87 10years ago and still good:steer:

thanks for the info. you used the OEM gasket, correct?

x2. SOR pipe and OEM gasket. I'm a cheap bastard and it was money well spent. Soooo nice not hearing THAT tic anymore!
Butt
 
thanks, butt. any suggestions for other things i should look for down there?
did you replace the ferrule and studs as well?

g

I did not replace studs but maybe should have (remember I'm cheap). I did replace the ferule. My searches revealed some Mudfolk were having trouble getting the new SOR nut onto the cooler so I reused my old one. It SUCKED getting the old pipe out of the EGR cooler. I needed a big vise and LONG cheater bar to bust it loose. Heat and penetrating oil help too.

Good luck,
Butt
 
Test the EGR valve to make sure it is working. I've had mine off 3 times in the last year, and each time I've sprayed the inside of it (from the bottom and side exhaust ports, not in the top where the EGR modulator vacuum hose attaches to) with Seafoam deep creep to loosen up carbon deposits and sticking.

That fixed my bucking and surging problem.

X2 on the EGR cooler and that big nut being tight. When I removed the assembly, the j-tube slipped right out, but the nut was frozen solid. The new one from SOR seems to thread fine, though.
 
Are the graphite gaskets any good?

General consensus (including my own experience) is that the OEM or Remflex gaskets are your best bet.

But if the flange on your J-pipe is not flat, any gasket will burn out quickly. So check the flange. The SOR stainless J-pipe solved the flatness problem for a lot of people, including me.
 
I've had to change that M!$&%$!ng gasket 3 times in 10K miles, since engine was rebuilt, at time of rebuild, I switched to the SOR pipe.

I used the OE Toyota gasket first two times, then the last time, at the suggestion of @ToyotaMatt I relented and used a Remflex, at their torque specs, and no sealant.

So far so good.

What Matt suggested was happening was bolts or studs were loosening and exhaust gas was leaking and very quickly eats up the gasket.

Use the correct 'Locking' exhaust-style Fasteners.
 
Are the graphite gaskets any good?
General consensus (including my own experience) is that the OEM or Remflex gaskets are your best bet.

But if the flange on your J-pipe is not flat, any gasket will burn out quickly. So check the flange. The SOR stainless J-pipe solved the flatness problem for a lot of people, including me.
I've had to change that M!$&%$!ng gasket 3 times in 10K miles, since engine was rebuilt, at time of rebuild, I switched to the SOR pipe.

I used the OE Toyota gasket first two times, then the last time, at the suggestion of @ToyotaMatt I relented and used a Remflex, at their torque specs, and no sealant.

So far so good.

What Matt suggested was happening was bolts or studs were loosening and exhaust gas was leaking and very quickly eats up the gasket.

Use the correct 'Locking' exhaust-style Fasteners.

.

I offer BOTH these KITs with the special non-usa self locking ANTI-GET Loose hardware ,

they come with special OEM Toyota Genuine parts 100% of its contents including the new updated NON-USA graphite Gaskets in both different stand alone kits to be KLEAR

this stuff works and
IS the BOMB !

the reason @Spike Strip has not had any more pre-mature failures is directly related to him UPDATING his OLD skool out dated Technology mounting hardware too


Modern Materials with a Purist Based Mind-Set Approach
is the thought process here and it works .... :D








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I've had to change that M!$&%$!ng gasket 3 times in 10K miles, since engine was rebuilt, at time of rebuild, I switched to the SOR pipe.

I used the OE Toyota gasket first two times, then the last time, at the suggestion of @ToyotaMatt I relented and used a Remflex, at their torque specs, and no sealant.

So far so good.

What Matt suggested was happening was bolts or studs were loosening and exhaust gas was leaking and very quickly eats up the gasket.

Use the correct 'Locking' exhaust-style Fasteners.
Remflex is all I will ever use, even over Toyota, for exhaust related components. The Chrysler Slant Six is notorious for exhaust manifold leaks no matter how flat the surfaces are, and when I put a Remflex in my '74 Duster I never heard an exhaust leak again. When I eventually pull my manifolds on my 3FE I'll use Remflex gaskets on reassembly.
 
I just replaced my stock exhaust manifold with some el cheapo headers that were not flat by any means. I used a remflex gasket rather than an oem. I drove the truck across the country shortly thereafter. I have no leaks at the manifold and I am 100% shocked that it held up. I genuinely expected a total failure and it might happen sometime in the future but I’ve got nearly 3,500 miles on it and it’s still sealing a very unflat surface.
 
.

I offer BOTH these KITs with the special non-usa self locking ANTI-GET Loose hardware ,

they come with special OEM Toyota Genuine parts 100% of its contents including the new updated NON-USA graphite Gaskets in both different stand alone kits to be KLEAR

this stuff works and
IS the BOMB !

the reason @Spike Strip has not had any more pre-mature failures is directly related to him UPDATING his OLD skool out dated Technology mounting hardware too


Modern Materials with a Purist Based Mind-Set Approach is the thought process here and it works .... :D








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Sweeeeet! Looks good. Just ordered mine from SOR as well as the J Pipe :)
 

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