Is it possible to do a $0 2F--3B swap in a 40? Follow along and see! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #222
Got started tonight working on welding up the floor patch - got the seam welded and mostly ground down - still some areas that need further grind/buff work but it's getting there...
Then since I had help tonight we moved on to properly aligning the body, breaking out the mount kit and getting things in place to align the rear sill horns. Got everything trimmed up, put a few tacks on and then clamped the fender in place, and put a bolt through the frame mount:
Made one adjustment "trim" then a second test fit and everything was good - so welded it is!
Still needs my 1/4" flat bar across the bottom, but so far so good! Next is the same on the other side!
Then since I had help tonight we moved on to properly aligning the body, breaking out the mount kit and getting things in place to align the rear sill horns. Got everything trimmed up, put a few tacks on and then clamped the fender in place, and put a bolt through the frame mount:
Made one adjustment "trim" then a second test fit and everything was good - so welded it is!
Still needs my 1/4" flat bar across the bottom, but so far so good! Next is the same on the other side!
So does the horn get connected to the quarter panel from the backside?
If so, pls post a pic from the back of the quarter panel once you get to that point in the process.
I have plans to redo my lower quarters and possible the horns. Wasn't sure how or if I need to plan for some sort of connection between them.
Thanks MrMoMo, looks great!
If so, pls post a pic from the back of the quarter panel once you get to that point in the process.
I have plans to redo my lower quarters and possible the horns. Wasn't sure how or if I need to plan for some sort of connection between them.
Thanks MrMoMo, looks great!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #224
Huh, I never even questioned if it was attached or not, just assumed that it was! I will be drilling a few holes through the quarter and plug welding it to the horn. I still have the "template" of the shape I used for the top and bottom of the horns... I'll try to get some sort of dimensions off it for you, assuming you can't just trace the old one (?)
No work on the cruiser tonight, was TIG welding up some custom modifications to Paul's oil pickup for his Porsche 968 race Car....
No work on the cruiser tonight, was TIG welding up some custom modifications to Paul's oil pickup for his Porsche 968 race Car....
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MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #225
Well, not a lot getting done now I must admit, but got a few other items off the list. (oil change on my TDI golf and my wife's BJ70, as well as fixed the exhaust on the 70). Also managed to gather together 2 or 3 years of "I'm gonna do that" and finally built my aluminum foundry!
(Nothing related to the thread at this point but just hang tight)
The Foundry (heating up):
The result if the first run (my sons Mother's Day gift for my wife). Sand cast through the "lost foam" method - not perfect but pretty good for a first attempt, and definitely held the interest and attention span of an 11yr old.... I think we were just barely warm enough as it seemed to solidify pretty much instantly.... More heat next time! (FYI, this was 25 aluminum cans)
Finally got a few minutes (literally) tonight to get some cruiser work done. Finished grinding/sanding/polishing the drivers floor - shot it with some etch primer now ready for the A-pillar and to stitch in the last section of floor - from the main floor to overlap this portion...
Hopefully this week sees the completion of either;
A) drivers floor
Or
B) drivers wheel well
Or
C) passenger rear sill horn
(Think I have project ADD?)
(Nothing related to the thread at this point but just hang tight)
The Foundry (heating up):
The result if the first run (my sons Mother's Day gift for my wife). Sand cast through the "lost foam" method - not perfect but pretty good for a first attempt, and definitely held the interest and attention span of an 11yr old.... I think we were just barely warm enough as it seemed to solidify pretty much instantly.... More heat next time! (FYI, this was 25 aluminum cans)
Finally got a few minutes (literally) tonight to get some cruiser work done. Finished grinding/sanding/polishing the drivers floor - shot it with some etch primer now ready for the A-pillar and to stitch in the last section of floor - from the main floor to overlap this portion...
Hopefully this week sees the completion of either;
A) drivers floor
Or
B) drivers wheel well
Or
C) passenger rear sill horn
(Think I have project ADD?)
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #226
Started earlier this week with the cut and patch of the front side of the drivers side wheel well, and top side of the box beam. Pretty much the same idea as the other side so I didn't bother with many pics... Tacked, welded, ground smooth. Let's move on.
Got the other rear sill horn tacked on. Easiest way to fit this is to use a straight edge vertically across the upper, mid lip and horn to get things close, put the body mount bolt in place - put 2 quick tacks on and put the quarter panel on to make sure everything is good! Once everything lined up I welded it and shot it with self etching weldable primer - along with all the other surfaces where the quarter panel will be hiding metal.
Very tedious grinding down the welds in the lower corners where the corner channel meets the sill...
Next I clamped the quarters back in place and marked out where the flanges line up so I knew where to drill the holes for the plug welds. (Wax pencil works great!) I spaced the holes along the side at 100mm, and 50mm around the corner. On the sill horn I drilled for 8 plug welds evenly spaced. Plug weld holes are about 1/4"
Then back to clamping things in place again - for the last time!!! I welded the inside edge of the corner channel with 4 plug welds first (can't see here) and then the top corner of the seam, and inboard most two holes on the sill horn. After that I worked my way all the way across the top seam about every inch until I was around the corner - then every 4"-6" or so. Once the top seam was completely stitched I went back and did the remaining 6 plug welds on the sill horn, and lastly all the plug welds across the top flange of the wheel well, measuring 7-1/8" as I went - from the top of the wheel well to the top surface of the inner edge of the tub side (where the upper side panel would bolt)
Took some time and finessing, but I'm happy with the fit. Next up: the other side!
"Look Ma, no clamps!"
Got the other rear sill horn tacked on. Easiest way to fit this is to use a straight edge vertically across the upper, mid lip and horn to get things close, put the body mount bolt in place - put 2 quick tacks on and put the quarter panel on to make sure everything is good! Once everything lined up I welded it and shot it with self etching weldable primer - along with all the other surfaces where the quarter panel will be hiding metal.
Very tedious grinding down the welds in the lower corners where the corner channel meets the sill...
Next I clamped the quarters back in place and marked out where the flanges line up so I knew where to drill the holes for the plug welds. (Wax pencil works great!) I spaced the holes along the side at 100mm, and 50mm around the corner. On the sill horn I drilled for 8 plug welds evenly spaced. Plug weld holes are about 1/4"
Then back to clamping things in place again - for the last time!!! I welded the inside edge of the corner channel with 4 plug welds first (can't see here) and then the top corner of the seam, and inboard most two holes on the sill horn. After that I worked my way all the way across the top seam about every inch until I was around the corner - then every 4"-6" or so. Once the top seam was completely stitched I went back and did the remaining 6 plug welds on the sill horn, and lastly all the plug welds across the top flange of the wheel well, measuring 7-1/8" as I went - from the top of the wheel well to the top surface of the inner edge of the tub side (where the upper side panel would bolt)
Took some time and finessing, but I'm happy with the fit. Next up: the other side!
"Look Ma, no clamps!"
74HogGuy
Lifetime Rookie
I'm about to tackle my rear quarters in the next couple of weeks. How are you handling where the quarter attaches to the door pillar? It looks like the originals have a 90 and bolt to the b-pillar, but my replacement panels are just flat on the end. Looking great!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #228
Now I know how far you'd go, to be the next freak show.....
Well why not?
Figured now that I have the experience in how to do it I'd see if I could rip through the other side.... And I did!
So here are the 4 plug welds up the side of the corner channel I spoke if in the previous post - these are the first welds done, then across the top seam.
I used these clamps leapfrog style, make a tack between them, then move the second into first place, tack repeat. Clamps were touching and the tack was between. Rinse / repeat until around the corner.
Once the top was done, same as the other side - plug welded the sill horn, then across the wheel well flange...
Starting to look like a truck!!
Well why not?
Figured now that I have the experience in how to do it I'd see if I could rip through the other side.... And I did!
So here are the 4 plug welds up the side of the corner channel I spoke if in the previous post - these are the first welds done, then across the top seam.
I used these clamps leapfrog style, make a tack between them, then move the second into first place, tack repeat. Clamps were touching and the tack was between. Rinse / repeat until around the corner.
Once the top was done, same as the other side - plug welded the sill horn, then across the wheel well flange...
Starting to look like a truck!!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #229
Yeah, the originals have a small C-channel spot welded to a flange that is bent into the front edge. The replacement panels I got from CCOT also have this flange bent into the front edge, so mine fit as per the originals. I removed the small C-channel from the old quarters, and will re-use them the same way as they they were installed originally. I expect if your replacements stop just shy of the B-pillar they could either just be butt welded to the front corner, or you could sled a small piece of angle to the front edge?
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #230
Take me down to the paradise city, where the grass is green and the girls are pretty....
Ok, so I have one of those jobs that most of the time is pretty good. As I'm sure is the norm, I work with a bunch of great guys, along side a few select idiots. Yesterday and today were those kinds of days where I get to experience the benefits of having a cool job, by being the test pilot on what I consider the coolest boat we've ever made, while at the same time wondering how some people manage to find their way out of bed in the morning. Some days I wonder both "how do I get paid to do this" and moments later "I don't get paid enough to do this"...
Anyhoo, by the end of the day I was pretty frustrated with it all, and was glad to be getting out of there for the weekend (we work 4 10's and have a 3 day weekend every week) Driving home a great old tune came on and I drowned out my days memories by cranking up the volume to bring back memories from years back (to the above) to where I could have been hit by a cruise missile from behind and wouldn't have heard it coming. (Can you hear cruise missiles coming from
behind you?) Good stress reliever, driving and music - clears your mind of everything. Humorous, as drowning out the thoughts with loud sounds is pretty much the opposite as to why I was doing what I was for the past two days.... Trying to make loud sound go away...
Got me thinking "why do I keep working here" but of course after the frustration wears off a little you realize that the grass might be greener on the other side, but that's probably from all the dog s*** fertilizing it....
A view from my office...
ANYWAY.... Tonight was another milestone!!! Now I can start working on the main beam!!! -And welding up the bottom side of all the seams I have welded on the top!
Bolted a plate to the door striker holes, bolted an angle to the upper door hinge, then welded the back of the angle to the plate to brace the B pillars from moving... Cut across the remaining section of the seam at the back of the floor (didn't drill the spot welds) and then very carefully cut the rail away from the B- pillars - ta-da!
Two of us lifted the box off, then stood it on the floor so I can get at the beam....
Yikes, where did it go? ;cP
Ok, so I have one of those jobs that most of the time is pretty good. As I'm sure is the norm, I work with a bunch of great guys, along side a few select idiots. Yesterday and today were those kinds of days where I get to experience the benefits of having a cool job, by being the test pilot on what I consider the coolest boat we've ever made, while at the same time wondering how some people manage to find their way out of bed in the morning. Some days I wonder both "how do I get paid to do this" and moments later "I don't get paid enough to do this"...
Anyhoo, by the end of the day I was pretty frustrated with it all, and was glad to be getting out of there for the weekend (we work 4 10's and have a 3 day weekend every week) Driving home a great old tune came on and I drowned out my days memories by cranking up the volume to bring back memories from years back (to the above) to where I could have been hit by a cruise missile from behind and wouldn't have heard it coming. (Can you hear cruise missiles coming from
behind you?) Good stress reliever, driving and music - clears your mind of everything. Humorous, as drowning out the thoughts with loud sounds is pretty much the opposite as to why I was doing what I was for the past two days.... Trying to make loud sound go away...
Got me thinking "why do I keep working here" but of course after the frustration wears off a little you realize that the grass might be greener on the other side, but that's probably from all the dog s*** fertilizing it....
A view from my office...
ANYWAY.... Tonight was another milestone!!! Now I can start working on the main beam!!! -And welding up the bottom side of all the seams I have welded on the top!
Bolted a plate to the door striker holes, bolted an angle to the upper door hinge, then welded the back of the angle to the plate to brace the B pillars from moving... Cut across the remaining section of the seam at the back of the floor (didn't drill the spot welds) and then very carefully cut the rail away from the B- pillars - ta-da!
Two of us lifted the box off, then stood it on the floor so I can get at the beam....
Yikes, where did it go? ;cP
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #231
Feeling like I'm not getting a whole lot done, but I did get the spot welds drilled out and removed the back end of the floor, and the front of the main beam cut out (as marked here in black) then blasted the edge and inside of the main beam.
Decided that I should remove and inspect the rear mount just to be sure the inside was ok. Had a heck of a time finding the spot welds - but got there in the end. Seems that either a few were missed from the factory or had long since detached!
Seems to me at this point that it's probably best to get both of these replaced, but the prices I'm finding online are ridiculous for what they are, so I'm going to call a couple fab shops to price out either the whole thing, or just the bends and I'll cut the metal and mark the bends...
Here is what I get for the dims... Maybe not factory, but close enough for me!
Decided that I should remove and inspect the rear mount just to be sure the inside was ok. Had a heck of a time finding the spot welds - but got there in the end. Seems that either a few were missed from the factory or had long since detached!
Seems to me at this point that it's probably best to get both of these replaced, but the prices I'm finding online are ridiculous for what they are, so I'm going to call a couple fab shops to price out either the whole thing, or just the bends and I'll cut the metal and mark the bends...
Here is what I get for the dims... Maybe not factory, but close enough for me!
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #232
Main Beam Part 1
So tonight saw the fabrication of the repair panels of the front edge of the main beam. Cut, fit and tacked the two outer sections first, then the mid section (made of multiple parts welded together)
Drivers side short piece ready to tack:
Once both sides were in place the center was tacked, and a few short stitches:
Next we removed the back side of the box beam, again finding the spot rivets proved not to be easy...
The good news is what remains inside there looks like it's in very decent shape.
Hopefully this Friday sees a full bottom blast (ready for chassis saver) and a new rear bed support bent up, along with the new main beam back half.
So tonight saw the fabrication of the repair panels of the front edge of the main beam. Cut, fit and tacked the two outer sections first, then the mid section (made of multiple parts welded together)
Drivers side short piece ready to tack:
Once both sides were in place the center was tacked, and a few short stitches:
Next we removed the back side of the box beam, again finding the spot rivets proved not to be easy...
The good news is what remains inside there looks like it's in very decent shape.
Hopefully this Friday sees a full bottom blast (ready for chassis saver) and a new rear bed support bent up, along with the new main beam back half.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #233
Main beam part two...
Well, no blasting today - though that's probably better as there is more work I should do before that. But, I did get the sheet metal from the fab shop, looks like it's going to work great!!
Here is a shot of the new back side of the main beam. I need to cut the angle out of the ends, as well as install the body mounting points, but it's the bulk of the shape done:
And the new rear bed support (needs to be cut to the right length, and have the inserts put in at each end):
Also managed to weld up the seams for the quarter panels. I chose to weld it all down hand (or downhill as some call it) so that I could use a fair bit of heat but have less chance of blowing through. I also found that doing a fairly wide weave allowed me to get a good puddle, good penetration and result in a fairly flat weld bead - so less to grind off. Looks so far like I have managed to avoid making a banana out of it:
Also got the front seam of the main box welded both sides, and ground down on the outside (leaving the inside weld full) - no pic of that but it will show up later.
And can anyone guess what's in this package? (Not build related, but shop related!)
Well, no blasting today - though that's probably better as there is more work I should do before that. But, I did get the sheet metal from the fab shop, looks like it's going to work great!!
Here is a shot of the new back side of the main beam. I need to cut the angle out of the ends, as well as install the body mounting points, but it's the bulk of the shape done:
And the new rear bed support (needs to be cut to the right length, and have the inserts put in at each end):
Also managed to weld up the seams for the quarter panels. I chose to weld it all down hand (or downhill as some call it) so that I could use a fair bit of heat but have less chance of blowing through. I also found that doing a fairly wide weave allowed me to get a good puddle, good penetration and result in a fairly flat weld bead - so less to grind off. Looks so far like I have managed to avoid making a banana out of it:
Also got the front seam of the main box welded both sides, and ground down on the outside (leaving the inside weld full) - no pic of that but it will show up later.
And can anyone guess what's in this package? (Not build related, but shop related!)
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #234
Main beam part 3
Well I finally got back onto the 40 tonight - I've been working on an '02 Golf TDI that I picked up for my wife (to drive while the BJ70 is under the knife - after the 40 is done!). Started working on the main beam shaping - got one side done. (Except the body mount point)
Cut this part out, bent the small triangle, made a few trims then tacked it back in...
I've made a guess that the lower lip stays at 90 degrees to the face, as there is a twist in the flange at the inner edge of the wheel well that seems to match this, so I made the twist match!
Welded up. You can see the twist in the flange close to the base of the garage door. Also, you may notice that the diagonal weld goes from skinny to wide - because it's the same plate as original, but on an angle, the gap gets wide at the outer edge.
Ground flush, just needs a little more attention at the flange weld seam, my 4-1/2" grinder doesn't quite fit in there:
Hope to spend quite a bit of time on it tomorrow, maybe get the main beam finished and the mid bed support as well....
Well I finally got back onto the 40 tonight - I've been working on an '02 Golf TDI that I picked up for my wife (to drive while the BJ70 is under the knife - after the 40 is done!). Started working on the main beam shaping - got one side done. (Except the body mount point)
Cut this part out, bent the small triangle, made a few trims then tacked it back in...
I've made a guess that the lower lip stays at 90 degrees to the face, as there is a twist in the flange at the inner edge of the wheel well that seems to match this, so I made the twist match!
Welded up. You can see the twist in the flange close to the base of the garage door. Also, you may notice that the diagonal weld goes from skinny to wide - because it's the same plate as original, but on an angle, the gap gets wide at the outer edge.
Ground flush, just needs a little more attention at the flange weld seam, my 4-1/2" grinder doesn't quite fit in there:
Hope to spend quite a bit of time on it tomorrow, maybe get the main beam finished and the mid bed support as well....
Die grinder w/double cut carbide bit or a small 2" sanding disk on a Roloc setup works in those small places . Keep an eye open for a used/good band file - they are excellent for that stuff .
Sarge
Sarge
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #236
Yeah, I have a Roloc on my die grinder with 2" sanding discs, flap wheel, and 3M pads and it's great for getting into the little corners. Just wish I could find someone locally who sells the flap discs on their own at a reasonable price. Everyone only seems to carry them in a "starter pack" where you get one of each type of media, and the base. I guess I'll have to head over to EBay....
Main Beam part IV....
Got the other end cut and welded to shape - still needs some tweaks (twisting) at the ends where the flange angle changes for the wheel well, but other than that - the shape is done. Next up will be the body mount points.
Here is this side cut and clamped before welding:
And then the whole thing fit in place:
Also got the mid bed support cut to size and bent up and welded in the doublers.... As close a guess as I could get to what was in there before, mine was all bowed from rust. Used the angles on the old one to ballpark the new one, seems to fit pretty well. Piece is 80mm wide, and 110mm long... 25mm/25mm/25mm/25mm/10mm. Etch primed then welded together:
Both ends done and sitting roughly in the right spot. Once the bottom of the bed is blasted and painted I'll weld this back in place (along with the main beam):
Tomorrow I hope to get the body mount points done, and maybe weld up some more holes in the bed...
Main Beam part IV....
Got the other end cut and welded to shape - still needs some tweaks (twisting) at the ends where the flange angle changes for the wheel well, but other than that - the shape is done. Next up will be the body mount points.
Here is this side cut and clamped before welding:
And then the whole thing fit in place:
Also got the mid bed support cut to size and bent up and welded in the doublers.... As close a guess as I could get to what was in there before, mine was all bowed from rust. Used the angles on the old one to ballpark the new one, seems to fit pretty well. Piece is 80mm wide, and 110mm long... 25mm/25mm/25mm/25mm/10mm. Etch primed then welded together:
Both ends done and sitting roughly in the right spot. Once the bottom of the bed is blasted and painted I'll weld this back in place (along with the main beam):
Tomorrow I hope to get the body mount points done, and maybe weld up some more holes in the bed...
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #237
So, the only reason to have a plan is to deviate from it right? Or is it that if you don't have a plan you can't deviate from it?
Either way, instead of working on the main beam, I went for the mid bed support. Running low on sand so when I set up to blast I was only able to get the area behind the mid bed support, and the support itself before I ran out. Since the main beam wasn't blasted I figured I might as well get the mid bed done.
Mid bed area blasted, drilled for welds and etch primed:
Had to come up with a way of being able to push the bed and support together tightly for the plug welds. Here is what I came up with!
So, the two lengths of angle are vice-clamped to the heat shield brackets. Next the pry bar is put under the top angle, and the C-clamp pulls the tension to the second angle. This has a double effect of pulling the floor towards the mid bed support, while at the same time pushing the mid bed support towards the floor. A few spots I used a small block of wood to actually push on the flange, instead of the base of the bed support. Worked great!
All the welds are made from the bed side. Much easier to burn plug welds into the flange of the support, and just melt the edges of the bed, than try to burn into the bed, where the thickness can vary due to its age!
Plug welds finished and mostly ground down, along with nice square cuts of the rotted out areas where the jump seat bases were:
Here it is all done, you can see the heat rise from the plug welds on the other side:
Next on the list for the box;
- Main beam body mount points
- Jump seat point repair patches
- Rear wheel well support repairs
- Rear outer corners of bed repair
- Main beam blast/paint & installation
I THOUGHT the list was getting shorter, but it doesn't seem to be!
Finally ordered that M11x 1.25 die for re-threading (de-galvanizing!) the shock mounts. Should see that in about a month.
--> whoops.... Skip down a few posts if you were about to order that...
New shocks and steering stabilizer are here, along with the bikini top windshield channel - so now I can drive without the doors/rear sides/roof/rear doors - hope I'm done before it's too cold for that!!!!!
Either way, instead of working on the main beam, I went for the mid bed support. Running low on sand so when I set up to blast I was only able to get the area behind the mid bed support, and the support itself before I ran out. Since the main beam wasn't blasted I figured I might as well get the mid bed done.
Mid bed area blasted, drilled for welds and etch primed:
Had to come up with a way of being able to push the bed and support together tightly for the plug welds. Here is what I came up with!
So, the two lengths of angle are vice-clamped to the heat shield brackets. Next the pry bar is put under the top angle, and the C-clamp pulls the tension to the second angle. This has a double effect of pulling the floor towards the mid bed support, while at the same time pushing the mid bed support towards the floor. A few spots I used a small block of wood to actually push on the flange, instead of the base of the bed support. Worked great!
All the welds are made from the bed side. Much easier to burn plug welds into the flange of the support, and just melt the edges of the bed, than try to burn into the bed, where the thickness can vary due to its age!
Plug welds finished and mostly ground down, along with nice square cuts of the rotted out areas where the jump seat bases were:
Here it is all done, you can see the heat rise from the plug welds on the other side:
Next on the list for the box;
- Main beam body mount points
- Jump seat point repair patches
- Rear wheel well support repairs
- Rear outer corners of bed repair
- Main beam blast/paint & installation
I THOUGHT the list was getting shorter, but it doesn't seem to be!
Finally ordered that M11x 1.25 die for re-threading (de-galvanizing!) the shock mounts. Should see that in about a month.
--> whoops.... Skip down a few posts if you were about to order that...
New shocks and steering stabilizer are here, along with the bikini top windshield channel - so now I can drive without the doors/rear sides/roof/rear doors - hope I'm done before it's too cold for that!!!!!
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MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #238
Where did that week go?!?
Not a whole lot to report here, got two of the four jump seat holes welded up, one of which has a nice double bend in it to match the rib - just needs a little more sanding with the just arrived ebay special Roloc 2" flap wheels.
Also installed the CCOT steering stabilizer mount, ready for the BDS replacement damper:
Decided that it was nice doing some work that wasn't welding or cutting steel, so decided to throw the shocks on (no hardware yet) just to see how they fit. Now where the heck do I find metric 11x1.25 Nyloc nuts?
I spy a bit of a problem here though... Hrmmmm... Bugger.
The good news is that I'm done working on the TDI I picked up for my wife - so I should have some more time for the 40 now...
Not a whole lot to report here, got two of the four jump seat holes welded up, one of which has a nice double bend in it to match the rib - just needs a little more sanding with the just arrived ebay special Roloc 2" flap wheels.
Also installed the CCOT steering stabilizer mount, ready for the BDS replacement damper:
Decided that it was nice doing some work that wasn't welding or cutting steel, so decided to throw the shocks on (no hardware yet) just to see how they fit. Now where the heck do I find metric 11x1.25 Nyloc nuts?
I spy a bit of a problem here though... Hrmmmm... Bugger.
The good news is that I'm done working on the TDI I picked up for my wife - so I should have some more time for the 40 now...
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #239
Ok, so tonight I decided to go for another night of not welding. Trying to make that light at the end of the tunnel appear a little brighter than it actually is. Drilled and re-tapped (de-zinc'd) the light mounting holes in the rear bumper, along with the 8 other holes that I have no idea what they do. Mounted one of the new tail lights. Light at the end of the tunnel. Then decided to try fitting one of the shock nuts to a tap in my tap and die set. Found a bolt that fit the nut, then discovered that my M12x1.25 die fits the shock mounting studs. So, anyone in need of a Chinese made M11x1.25 as ordered 2 posts above let me know... (Assuming that some day a poor soul manages to wander this far into this thread)
Hang onto that 11x1.25 - it will fit the seat belt holes .
Sarge
Sarge
