Builds Intro: Ugly Betty(so far) (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter tmarx
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #46
Rough grinded, etched cleaned & temporarily painted with NS4 untill the Rustbullet Silver Label arrives...
Once again the whole seam is opened and a new lip made to replace the old. NO SHORT-CUTS !
New lip to replace the old which was covered with Rust Bullet on the inside before being welded in, just like all the other closed areas..
Seams that are too good to be cut out are drilled open and painted with Rust Bullet on the inside before being closed up and spotwelded again.
Once again the whole seam is opened and a new lip made to replace the old. NO SHORT-CUTS !
New lip to replace the old which was covered with Rust Bullet on the inside before being welded in, just like all the other closed areas..
Seams that are too good to be cut out are drilled open and painted with Rust Bullet on the inside before being closed up and spotwelded again.
M5driver
MUD Addict (Ret.)
Nice work, Theo! Really wish I had the tools here to do those things myself, but at least the panel beater has a really good welder. Keep plugging - it'll be worth it at the end
top score nice looking 40 the rust is easy to fix along as she 
good thats all you need
good thats all you need- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks for the kind words but to set the record straight, those welds are not mine. I have a beater who comes around to help me, so my participation has been limited to some cutting, grinding and some shaping of the patches, but I am learning so .....
mate he's worth his weight in bronze, its looking great, keep it up.......the patches are tops too so dont sell yourself short
Just noticed your PLN – NICELY DONE
- Thread starter
- #54
A few more
Both the inner and outside pieces needed to be replaced..
We cut, bent and shaped the new outside piece after lots and lots of calculations...
and after tacking, welded it in place.
All grinded down..
Although the inner piece has been shaped we did not weld it in as I needed to Rust Bullet the areas that would not be exposed to normal paint, once welded up and we wanted to test-fit the new bottom with the fenders etc first(in case we need to make alterations) before final welding and drilling etc
So it was time to see if the "new" bib would fit properly which meant I had to refit both fenders and side panels.
The culprit..
Is this a perfect fit or what ? Even the angles of the swivel hinge was good !
That meant we could weld in the inner part that acts as reinforcement
With our spirits up, we decided to check on how some of the other parts that we had butchered, lines up..
So far all good
Both the inner and outside pieces needed to be replaced..
We cut, bent and shaped the new outside piece after lots and lots of calculations...
and after tacking, welded it in place.
All grinded down..
Although the inner piece has been shaped we did not weld it in as I needed to Rust Bullet the areas that would not be exposed to normal paint, once welded up and we wanted to test-fit the new bottom with the fenders etc first(in case we need to make alterations) before final welding and drilling etc
So it was time to see if the "new" bib would fit properly which meant I had to refit both fenders and side panels.
The culprit..
Is this a perfect fit or what ? Even the angles of the swivel hinge was good !
That meant we could weld in the inner part that acts as reinforcement
With our spirits up, we decided to check on how some of the other parts that we had butchered, lines up..
So far all good
looking good
Getting stuck in I see!
Isn't removing all the old paint fun?
keep up the good work, nice posts
It helps to have all those pre disassembly photos later
Just a tip if you pull the wiring loom take good photos of the under dash routing
I used tape and a perm marker on each wire to id where it goes--beats looking at wire colors in the schematic
If you ever find one of those tachs laying around let me know I have a big ol hole in the dash to fill!
It gets better but there is no getting around the hard slog up front
Getting stuck in I see!
Isn't removing all the old paint fun?
keep up the good work, nice posts
It helps to have all those pre disassembly photos later
Just a tip if you pull the wiring loom take good photos of the under dash routing
I used tape and a perm marker on each wire to id where it goes--beats looking at wire colors in the schematic
If you ever find one of those tachs laying around let me know I have a big ol hole in the dash to fill!
It gets better but there is no getting around the hard slog up front
- Thread starter
- #56
Getting stuck in I see!
Isn't removing all the old paint fun?
keep up the good work, nice posts
It helps to have all those pre disassembly photos later
Just a tip if you pull the wiring loom take good photos of the under dash routing
I used tape and a perm marker on each wire to id where it goes--beats looking at wire colors in the schematic
If you ever find one of those tachs laying around let me know I have a big ol hole in the dash to fill!
It gets better but there is no getting around the hard slog up front
Thanx man. Yeah unfortunately winter came early so we couldn't spray the tub with the Rust Bullet, so now the rest of the body work will have to wait for about 2.5 months.
I have taken about a gazillion pics already and still continue to do so. When I did the wiring loom I took lots of pics and as you said, marked every wire, plug etc with tape and a sharpie.I even made detailed notes about it:whoops: but I am sure when the time comes to put her back together it would have been worth it
- Thread starter
- #57
After finally finishing the last of the welding(on the outside) and the test fitting it was time to remove the tub and face whatever she was hiding underneath, so the tub finally came off !
From the beginning I was praying/hoping that rustwise, she would be better underneath than on the outside and ontop as it seemed that the PO had sprayed her with some rubberising underneath. Most thought I was nuts and looked sceptical....
What a pleasant surprise it was to find that what looked like rust is actually very fine dust...
Bar a small spot at the left tub mount the sill is very good.
It even still had the OEM stickers covering the factory holes
If it wasn't for the rain preventing me form painting the Rust Bullet on the few patches we need to weld, we could have finished all the outstanding welding.( When some of the helpers found other entertainment we took it as a sign and called it a day early...
From the beginning I was praying/hoping that rustwise, she would be better underneath than on the outside and ontop as it seemed that the PO had sprayed her with some rubberising underneath. Most thought I was nuts and looked sceptical....
What a pleasant surprise it was to find that what looked like rust is actually very fine dust...
Bar a small spot at the left tub mount the sill is very good.
It even still had the OEM stickers covering the factory holes
If it wasn't for the rain preventing me form painting the Rust Bullet on the few patches we need to weld, we could have finished all the outstanding welding.( When some of the helpers found other entertainment we took it as a sign and called it a day early...
- Thread starter
- #58
Time for an update: In prep for engine and box removal we removed the tierods , shocks and last of the brake hardlines. The help arrived early enough for the rugby and cladded in traditional war-dress nogal, well we lost and then I got my own revenge by putting him to work!
Thanks mate !
Then today I got a huge pressie !!
These were custom made for an 80 series but we have already worked out how to fit them in the 40. Watch this space...
Thanks JB ! You are the best !Now I just need to find the 2 outside seatbelts etc
and then I got my own revenge by putting him to work! 
Thanks mate !
Then today I got a huge pressie !!
These were custom made for an 80 series but we have already worked out how to fit them in the 40. Watch this space...
Thanks JB ! You are the best !
Now I just need to find the 2 outside seatbelts etc
