Builds Intro: Ugly Betty(so far)

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Thanks but before people get the wrong idea, I made that comment in jest. When I started this crazy project I had absolutely no mechanical experience whatsoever :o:o and Keith(tlc-4play) has been one of my main guiding mentors :clap:
 
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Awesome stuff mate, looking real good.
My 82 troopie had a rubber around the vent cover similar to what you have done from factory ;)

:popcorn:
 
Some progress ...


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But eventually I could no longer avoid the wiring looms - easily my biggest fear on this project. I decided to start with the rear part and it was not a pretty sight...



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The leftovers ...



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The wiring itself was fortunately still in perfect condition so after a good clean I could tape it up with some high quality tapes that a good friend sent me :cool:


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Thanks Keith, you da man ! :cheers:


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And then installing it back in place ...



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Which brought me to the rear lights.



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My old ones were not good and I knowingly bought some chinese(?) replacements from N1 4x4.



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In some respects the quality was not good but that was not the only problem ...



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So I decided to use the 5 pin OEM wiring and contact-points with the new housing, which needed some serious rust-proofing.



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Spot the earthing solution



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I was also not entirely happy with the rubber gasket. The front was OK but the back not so i decided to beef it up a bit with some HD fibre rubber...



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I also changed the flimsy mounting screws with nuts and bolts which will bne used as the new earth contact



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All done ...



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They do stand out about 4mm more than before but I am happy that the sealing and shock absorbing is better than before :wink:



Next nightmare the Main Loom !



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Absolutely super work, Theo. I love it!

And I second this sentiment: "Thanks Keith, you da man ! " Keith comes through in the pinch, eh?

:cheers:
Dan
 
looking good Theo, looking good, got my glow plug insulators in, thanks again. That tape you are using, that is non adhesive or adhesive? I know the old stuff i pulled off my wiring (all still in a big box and marked) was not adhesive but every store i go to to find does not know what I am talking about?

R
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated !

Rob, the Plymouth tape is not adhesive as such. During application you have to stretch it out to about 2/3rds of it's original width and then wind it bit by bit. It then sticks and in that state "amalgamates" itself around the wires. Lovely stuff to work with but the entire job is a PITA and worse than watching paint dry :meh:
 
LOL, I bet it was, just taking all that stuff off the wires was a pain. I will start my search for this elusive plymouth tape for I am ready to do my wiring cleanup now. Get my body back this weekend.

R
 
Visible progress has been very slow as I am getting to the stage where you find out how much time it actually takes ....
The wiring and all aspects of it was my biggest fear from the start of this project


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But bit by bit I managed to wrestle myself through it ...



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As allways the self-amalgamating HV tape first and then the other stuff ..


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Along the way I found that main loom and some relays etc had been incorrectly fitted and that some stuff was completely out of place :?



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Some of the relays had some surface rust on the outside.Instead of normal paint I chose to go with a clearcote rust coverter primer combination so as to retain the OEM look.It may not be as pretty as new silver paint but troubleshooting should be easier if I can read the inscriptions clearly and besides, they are all hidden out of sight anyway. I also made rubber "washers" for all areas of contact, just to add a bit of cushioning etc


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I have taken some flack for putting back the ugly old OEM heat and sound matting, seeing that I covered the entire firewall in stick-on matting already. However when I am finished, very little of theo ugly matting will be visible but it will still be functional ...


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I didn't like those sharp edges on the sides of the cubbyhole especially since some wiring runs in those areas ..

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and fixed it with some moulded rubber


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During stripdown I found that my gearlever "bushes" were shot.


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The flat black levers also came out real stealthy looking :cool:



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Which brought me to the skinny pedal and the hand throttle ..


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Not all my YP stuff came out as expected and it seems as if areas which had rust do not come out shiny. Maybe I should have sanded it all before the time ? At least the rust is gone ...


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:cheers:
 
Lookin great Theo, the wire harness is a bear to tackle. I only found 1/2" non adhesive tape so took me a little longer then if I would have 1". But I am glad I copied you in doing it. I still have to put my looms on once I work out all bugs. Keep er goin, I continue to copy pics of yours to help me with mine.

R
 
:popcorn:
Theo, where does that white bushing go? Do you happen to have part numbers for those bushings? Thanks.

It goes on the tip of the shift lever. If you look at the pic above you will see that my old one was so worn out it stayed behind when I removed the lever. I subsequently dropped it into the box :o but we found it when we stripped the box and it now has a permanent spot in my 105 ser .

The part no for that one is

BUSH, NO.1, SHIFT LEVER (FOR FLOOR SHIFT) # 33548-60020

and the other

SEAT, TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER BALL # 33505-60010

:cheers:
 
That's just too pretty!!! Gotta coat that exhaust manifold so it feels at home in the engine bay!!

Outstanding build and quality work...drop dead gorgeous!

Cheers!
 
Thank you, much appreciated !


Time for an update ...
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My heater was in a bad state of disrepair.

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The vents were glued to the bottom of the dash for obvious reasons ....

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It needed a total rebuild as the foam rubber was shot.

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Fortunately the core was only dirty but very good :wink:

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It is advisable to bake the UHT paint but you do so entirely at your own risk ! :hillbilly:

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When you only have 2 hands you have to make a plan to drill & poprivet the unwilling broken parts ..


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