Go ahead and look up the intermediate shaft and order and replace it. That and the rag joint will tighten up your steering. Yours looks a bit crunchy.
Intro to GXOR! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter V8ctor
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- #22
THAT'S NOT ALL FOLKS!
After more finagling with other "rusted welded" bolts, nuts, castle nuts on the driver side, I caved in & ordered a used steering knuckle off eBay. It was in excellent condition and came off an 04 with 227k miles with very little rust if any. Thats how I found out my wheel bearing was also on its way out. Mine felt like pushing a mountain, but the (new to me) hub bearing was a lot smoother. Definitely a lesson on how high mileage means nothing if the vehicle has been taken care of.
Soooo I ordered the passenger side steering knuckle as well! Same donor 04 with 227k miles. Also came in excellent condition.
I went ahead and removed the passenger side brakes I installed, to install the (new to me) spindle.
Then I had a bright idea... since I have to get an alignment anyway, why not just install the lift kit while I'm here. Everything is basically apart.. what's a couple more bolts???
Which brings me to my latest predicament. I spent 6-7 hours yesterday... and achieved naught but pain, agony, body aches, and mental exhaustion. I had to drive to harbor freight to buy ratcheting flex wrenches, and low profile flex ratchets with long reach handles, and a little cushion roller seat for my sore rear end. The 3 nuts on the strut top hat mount were badly seized! I got the front two with a breaker bar & jack handle extension mod. I did the hidden back nut with a flex wrench, and ratchet wrench combo for more leverage. The LCA lower bolt popped off easy with the impact. The strut is still stuck at the top. I've smacked it with a 3lbs hammer, rubber mallet, pb blaster, huge demo screwdriver, pry bars... its not budging.
I had another bright idea. Might as well take off the UCA for more space and since I'm replacing it anyway. Tried hammering it out with a screwdriver, got stuck against the power steering pump so I removed that, but now I can't get a good angle to keep hammering.
I'll try again after work. I don't have air tools nor the space for them. Instead of an air hammer, should I use a rotary hammer or hammer drill to beat the crap outta the top hat? I've got new Dorman 926-339 UCA bolts, and KYB SM5724 Top hats arriving tomorrow.
After more finagling with other "rusted welded" bolts, nuts, castle nuts on the driver side, I caved in & ordered a used steering knuckle off eBay. It was in excellent condition and came off an 04 with 227k miles with very little rust if any. Thats how I found out my wheel bearing was also on its way out. Mine felt like pushing a mountain, but the (new to me) hub bearing was a lot smoother. Definitely a lesson on how high mileage means nothing if the vehicle has been taken care of.
Soooo I ordered the passenger side steering knuckle as well! Same donor 04 with 227k miles. Also came in excellent condition.
I went ahead and removed the passenger side brakes I installed, to install the (new to me) spindle.
Then I had a bright idea... since I have to get an alignment anyway, why not just install the lift kit while I'm here. Everything is basically apart.. what's a couple more bolts???
Which brings me to my latest predicament. I spent 6-7 hours yesterday... and achieved naught but pain, agony, body aches, and mental exhaustion. I had to drive to harbor freight to buy ratcheting flex wrenches, and low profile flex ratchets with long reach handles, and a little cushion roller seat for my sore rear end. The 3 nuts on the strut top hat mount were badly seized! I got the front two with a breaker bar & jack handle extension mod. I did the hidden back nut with a flex wrench, and ratchet wrench combo for more leverage. The LCA lower bolt popped off easy with the impact. The strut is still stuck at the top. I've smacked it with a 3lbs hammer, rubber mallet, pb blaster, huge demo screwdriver, pry bars... its not budging.
I had another bright idea. Might as well take off the UCA for more space and since I'm replacing it anyway. Tried hammering it out with a screwdriver, got stuck against the power steering pump so I removed that, but now I can't get a good angle to keep hammering.
I'll try again after work. I don't have air tools nor the space for them. Instead of an air hammer, should I use a rotary hammer or hammer drill to beat the crap outta the top hat? I've got new Dorman 926-339 UCA bolts, and KYB SM5724 Top hats arriving tomorrow.
See my pic for more info. The strut removal...I typically pull on the lower portion and use the entire strut at a lever.
- Thread starter
- #26
My buddy answered my SOS and we were able to whack both sides out within 3 hours!
Alas, I effed up a few things…
I need new brake lines. I cut the bracket attached to the frame with the elbow fitting, because the bolt was rounded off. Rest of the lines are rusty. Anyone knows the part numbers for the pre-bent lines? I need the line & bracket from there til caliper (minus hoses which I have the new ss hoses for)
Alas, I effed up a few things…
I need new brake lines. I cut the bracket attached to the frame with the elbow fitting, because the bolt was rounded off. Rest of the lines are rusty. Anyone knows the part numbers for the pre-bent lines? I need the line & bracket from there til caliper (minus hoses which I have the new ss hoses for)
Looks like you've got it! Last time I did that I used a sawzall to slice off the top hat. A bit of a pain but it worked! Just replaced my front coil overs under warranty and had to to it again for one side, due to a couple of the smaller nuts being stripped on the studs.
Regarding the pre-built brake lines, I need a couple for my rear axle and have not been able to find them prebuilt (OEM or aftermarket) You may need to just DIY bend some. You can usually get pre-flared universal hard brake lines sections in various lengths from the auto parts stores. Otherwise, you'll need to buy a roll of tubing, fittings, flare tool, and cutter to make them yourself. I have been putting this job off but am probably going to just buy a flare tools (a good flare tool is $100+). For a rustier GX you'll likely run into this problem again, so I'd just get the flare tool unless you can find a universal pre-flared line that is really close to the length you need. If you get desperate, you can also buy a longer universal line than needed and put a loop in it somewhere.
For the bracket attached to the frame, I'd recommend DIY'ing one out of a piece of steel flat strap. You can pretty easily bend the flat strap in a bench vise with a hammer and then drill holes in it. Otherwise, might have to get one from a junkyard if Lexus does not have it easily available.
Regarding the pre-built brake lines, I need a couple for my rear axle and have not been able to find them prebuilt (OEM or aftermarket) You may need to just DIY bend some. You can usually get pre-flared universal hard brake lines sections in various lengths from the auto parts stores. Otherwise, you'll need to buy a roll of tubing, fittings, flare tool, and cutter to make them yourself. I have been putting this job off but am probably going to just buy a flare tools (a good flare tool is $100+). For a rustier GX you'll likely run into this problem again, so I'd just get the flare tool unless you can find a universal pre-flared line that is really close to the length you need. If you get desperate, you can also buy a longer universal line than needed and put a loop in it somewhere.
For the bracket attached to the frame, I'd recommend DIY'ing one out of a piece of steel flat strap. You can pretty easily bend the flat strap in a bench vise with a hammer and then drill holes in it. Otherwise, might have to get one from a junkyard if Lexus does not have it easily available.
4731435320 I believe. I actually had a hydraulic shop create a bunch for my spares pile.
- Thread starter
- #29
Looks like I went deep into the suspension rabbit hole.. much deeper than we anticipated!
To be honest, I have a snowboarding trip planned for st. Patrick's day so I'm on a tight schedule to get the truck back on the road. I initially went down that route to get some pre-flared universal lines, but decided against it for now. I'll probably have to do it in the rear in the near future but for now, I ordered the front OEM plug N play brake lines. I'll jot them down here in case anyone else stumbles onto my journey into the unknown.
DRIVER SIDE:
47316 #2
47352
90468-08035 (2)
90119-08C06
47313A (LH) ------ I believe these are the ones I got SS hoses for so I didn't order this part.
91641-H0820 (2)
47354-35120
47316 #1
90412-10245
47371B #1
91611-G0612 (2)
PASSENGER SIDE:
47314 #2
90468-08035 (3)
47351
47313A (RH) ------- Same as above.
90119-08C06
47353-35140
91641-H0820 (2)
47314 #1
90412-10243 or 90412-10258 (ordered both just to be sure, will confirm later)
47371A
91611-G0612 (2)
The following I ordered from Lexus online because Toyota wanted to charge freight shipping for $600?!??
47316-35280
47316-35270
47314-35310
47314-35320
All together I paid $234.02. Shipping & taxes may vary for your location. The Toyota website didn't charge me tax, but Lexus sure did.
I cross referenced the part #'s & diagram on the Lexus website category "brake tube and clamps" with the part #'s on the Toyota website. Of course, Toyota has the better prices.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
Shop Lexus Parts and Accessories Online - https://parts.lexus.com
- Thread starter
- #31
No problemo! It took me a few hours to get all the correct info sorted. If it only helps one person, it was worth it. It’s the official Lexus parts website. The others don’t have the diagram so maybe that’s why.
You saved me a $120 flare tool, $50 in line fittings, and hours of time. Beauty of forums!
I looked at my order that I cancelled because I had them made by that company and yeah, these are the part numbers.
Keep grinding away at the GX! This car will last you forever. Some things on these GXs are way more difficult to replace than they should be, but keep going! It won't let you down. Good luck man!
- Thread starter
- #35
In hindsight, I regret not creating a new thread and classifying it as *builds*, but oh well.
I've done quite a few things since my last update.
- I degreased, prepped, and painted the newly visible parts of the frame with por15.
- I got my eibach front strut/shocks assembled at The Custom Shop in Queens, NY. Great guys. They squeezed me for an hour despite being fully booked for 2 weeks. They also informed me the KYB top hat bushings didn't fit, so they installed 2 from some of their spares. I would've been screwed had I done it at home.
- Installed the JBA UCA's
- Replaced driver side CV Axle with Cardone 66-5235HD. OEM will be rebooted later
- Installed new steering knuckle, Tie Rod End, ABS Sensor, & reinstalled brakes on passenger side.
I'll finish up the driver side tomorrow.
I misplaced the little bolt that attaches the ABS bracket to the UCA, so I used a zip tie for now. I'm absolutely dreading the brake line fiasco. Le'sigh..
I've done quite a few things since my last update.
- I degreased, prepped, and painted the newly visible parts of the frame with por15.
- I got my eibach front strut/shocks assembled at The Custom Shop in Queens, NY. Great guys. They squeezed me for an hour despite being fully booked for 2 weeks. They also informed me the KYB top hat bushings didn't fit, so they installed 2 from some of their spares. I would've been screwed had I done it at home.
- Installed the JBA UCA's
- Replaced driver side CV Axle with Cardone 66-5235HD. OEM will be rebooted later
- Installed new steering knuckle, Tie Rod End, ABS Sensor, & reinstalled brakes on passenger side.
I'll finish up the driver side tomorrow.
I misplaced the little bolt that attaches the ABS bracket to the UCA, so I used a zip tie for now. I'm absolutely dreading the brake line fiasco. Le'sigh..
Looking really good! Love the color way you have going. I need to get some more cosmetic work done more than anything, but major respect for this! There are some other things I need to fix, like the steering wheel squeak on start, or a small squeak when moving at idle speeds. Some maintenance work to be done here and there, but my biggest gripe is the sunroof tracks have basically deteriorated and I can no longer open my sunroof. Dreading taking it apart, but the shaking and vibrations that is coming from it is driving me crazy. We'll see how it goes over here!
- Thread starter
- #38
Heh, I try not to even open my sunroof anymore. I always wondered why my truck was so cold in the winter, and I couldn't pinpoint where the crazy wind noise was coming from. Turns out the sunroof didn't properly close last time I used it.. mine might be going down the same road.
Lemme know how it goes with the steering wheel squeak. Somewhere in another thread, someone suggested greasing the wheel column internals, and another said to disable the self adjustment, but IDK yet.
THANKS BRO! I didn't even know how to change my own oil 6 months ago, so this has been a crazy learning curve.
The steering wheel squeak is actually easy to fix. The wheel telescopes on a shaft via threaded rods that turn. The factory grease on the shaft and rods dried up. I re-greased both with bicycle chain lube and it's been quiet for well over a year. I tried "light" lubes like WD40 and lithium grease and still had noise. The bike lube is pretty thick and sticky.
