Intermittent Starting - 80 w/mechanic, need guidance

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Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Threads
15
Messages
57
Location
Amarillo, TX
Could really use some guidance. I’ve had an intermittent starting problem for several years. Finally getting serious about fixing it. Truck either cranks up easily, or I get the one click and then nothing. Will usually start after several tries. There have been times when I try approx 20 times with no luck. Usually jumps very easily.

I’ve read a lot of posts on this topic. Unfortunately, I’m ok mechanically, but have little aptitude for electrical issues. I put it in the shop last week to see if my mechanic could track down the issue.
  • He says he meters 12v to the starter, even when it just clicks, so he thinks it’s the starter.
  • I put a reman Denso in about 2 months ago. I figured it was fine, but I took it to a guy locally that rebuilds them. He confirmed it was good to go.
  • Battery is about a month old. Mechanic tested said it is fully charged
  • Thick cable that goes directly from the battery to the starter is brand new.
  • Thinner cable with the connector that fits the plug on the starter has not been replaced. Maybe consider replacing that?
  • The fusible link was new about a year ago. I have a spare, might try that.
I would assume that if starter is getting 12v consistently, it wouldn’t be ignition switch or neutral safety switch issues. Ideas?

Any reason to try a different starter? The guy that rebuilt the starter says he has installed a starter relay to solve similar issues with LCs in the past with good success. Thoughts?

Really frustrated by this. I know this has been discussed, but would appreciate any feedback.
 
Can be several things, you could have a bad cell, in your battery, it needs to be tested under load, or like my LC, I had a problem, some where from the ignition wiring and I could never figure it out so, I by passed it and did a push button start
 
I question the ability of your "mechanic".
The large lug on the starter is a direct connection to the positive battery terminal, so yea, it's going to read +12 all the time.
The small terminal on the starter is the logic from the ignition switch circuit and that will go +12 when the key is turned to START.

Since you're getting the click or "thump" of the starter solenoid pulling in when you try to start it, that tells me that the logic circuit is working properly and that the contacts/plunger inside the solenoid housing are not making contact.

The solution is to replace the contacts/plunger using the OEM rebuild kit and to make certain that the 2 contacts are installed flat so that the plunger makes good contact when the solenoid is energized and pulls in.

FWIW, I have received 2 remanufactured OEM starters from Toyota that did not work out of the box. On both units the contacts were installed incorrectly and they had re-used an old plunger as opposed to replacing it. On both units the bore of the solenoid was filthy and full of old grease and crap.

Toyota no longer sends rebuild units to Japan for rebuild/testing. Now they use a US based company that does substandard work.
 
I question the ability of your "mechanic".
The large lug on the starter is a direct connection to the positive battery terminal, so yea, it's going to read +12 all the time.
The small terminal on the starter is the logic from the ignition switch circuit and that will go +12 when the key is turned to START.

Since you're getting the click or "thump" of the starter solenoid pulling in when you try to start it, that tells me that the logic circuit is working properly and that the contacts/plunger inside the solenoid housing are not making contact.

The solution is to replace the contacts/plunger using the OEM rebuild kit and to make certain that the 2 contacts are installed flat so that the plunger makes good contact when the solenoid is energized and pulls in.

FWIW, I have received 2 remanufactured OEM starters from Toyota that did not work out of the box. On both units the contacts were installed incorrectly and they had re-used an old plunger as opposed to replacing it. On both units the bore of the solenoid was filthy and full of old grease and crap.

Toyota no longer sends rebuild units to Japan for rebuild/testing. Now they use a US based company that does substandard work.

^^^^^^^^^ Excellent reply. Covered everything.

In particular the failure of most folks (not knowledgeable of Denso starters) to press the contacts down firmly in housing before tightening. Most people just throw them in there. They work for awhile....but quickly degrade.
 
I would look at the main grounds too. Battery to block and starter. Putting a few hundred amps through marginal grounds can cause intermittent starting issues. You should have about 10v at the starter when cranking.​
 
I appreciate the input. This helps.
 
Hi, If it's a 1991 check the Efi in the black fuse box under the hood on the drivers fender. Pull it out its round and silver. If the contacts look burnt red..get a new Efi. If it keeps happening every once in a while, re-wire its electrical leads with larger wire under the fuse box. Mike
 
I'm interested in what the solution was as well.
 
Thanks for your very helpful reply, @jonheld. Thus far, it seems that my intermittent starter problem was resolved with merely disconnecting, cleaning, and reattaching the connector with some new electronic grease. It eliminated the response delay when activating the starter. Woot!
 
Hi, If it's a 1991 check the Efi in the black fuse box under the hood on the drivers fender. Pull it out its round and silver. If the contacts look burnt red..get a new Efi. If it keeps happening every once in a while, re-wire its electrical leads with larger wire under the fuse box. Mike
The OP was having a "no crank" rather than a "crank, no start". The EFI and starter circuit are separate systems.
 

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