Interior rear door release (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NMBruce

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Threads
50
Messages
1,398
Location
Pagosa Springs Colorado
Has anyone done an interior rear door release? I might be using the rear of my GX for a sleep area and would like to have a way to open the rear door.
 
Here is the Prado 120 rear door, might be able retrofit their release to work;

Prado004-1.jpg
 
that would be great, any ideas of where I can get the parts?
 
Hmm not sure on that, maybe try to contact an overseas Toyota and see if they can ship you the parts. Or try to find someone on PradoPoint to help you out.

Keep us posted, I'm interested in how this turns out.

Good luck!
 
I looked into it real quickly and I think the entire back door trim panel is different, so you would need to swap that out. Then there is the handle and the trim around the handle, and probably some cable to connect it to the latch.
 
I looked into it real quickly and I think the entire back door trim panel is different, so you would need to swap that out. Then there is the handle and the trim around the handle, and probably some cable to connect it to the latch.

agree, it might not be cost effective.

thinking I might try to run a cable from the top
 
thinking I might try to run a cable from the top[/QUOTE]
Thanks! You alerted me to a problem I didn't even know I had!
 
came up with an idea or two

There is a plate on the interior door latch and I drilled a hole in it to attach a cable and so I can make a pull from the top.
I could use a I-bolt, handle & cable or just a cable with a piece of rope on it and the robe velcro to the plastic panel.
I am using rubber grommets around the holes I am drilling to keep it clean and also to help stop rattles.
Concerns I have is the removal of the rear panel if need and also getting the cable tight when the panel is put on. the bolt or cable would need to come up through the metal door just about the grounding point in pic #1, so the bolt might work better, by using a second nuts to hold the bolt against the panel.
IMG_0051.jpg

IMG_0052.jpg
IMG_0053.jpg
 
got it working, its a very light pull, only need about a 1/2 of pull. total cost around $15.00. The holes you drill will depend on the size of your I-hook. I used a rubber grommet on the plastic and some tape to keep the threads from tearing up the rubber. I also used a extra nut along with the t-handle to keep it from coming loose.

the T Handle pull
IMG_0060.jpg


this was the hardest part. There are 2 panels here and so drilling is a bit of a pain. I took my dremel and cleaned up the hole.
IMG_0059.jpg
So here I taped up the cable and the cable lock wit duck tape and a rubber tape (in the Air Force, we called it F4 tape) The tape made it all very stiff and so I don't think there will be any rubbing.
IMG_0058.jpg
Here you can see the cable lock, this way if need I can take it all apart. where the cable went through the lock plate, I crimped the cable as best I could to make it stay close to the plate.
IMG_0056.jpg
 
@coops2k - nicely done.....great improvisation there!
 
You could simplify and just completely use cable if you don't mind a looped cable to pull open instead of a fancy plastic T pull.
That was my other thought if the T-handle didn't line up. Either one will work
 
JEALOUS!!!!!!!!!!!! and its on the list!!!!
 
I've added this to my list also, will make it easier for my kids to crawl out.
I wonder for any of you that have already done it, how much space is in between the rear door molding? would something like this flush mounted pull handle fit? or the second link a pull knob + cable? (with these bike cable type cables it would reduce the friction of an open cable rubbing against metal drilled holes.

1. https://www.amazon.com/FOLAI-Recliner-Replacement-Parts-Universal/dp/B01KXIUX2S
41fRpArpQzL.jpg



2. https://www.amazon.com/47V1534-Universal-Round-Handle-Cable/dp/B07BBVYB7D
51NxCXlUZ5L._SL1000_.jpg


I'm sure that second link with the pull knob would fit, but not sure about the components of the flush mounted handle......or a junk yard internal Toyota door release.....to make it look like a factory piece???
61VqqPS8F-L._SX425_.jpg
 
Last edited:
I did mine a bit ago do this is from memory, but I believe the sheet metal is about 1/2" away from the plastic covering. You'd likely have to cut sheet metal to instal one of those flush mount handles.

The other issue would be the orientation the cable is pulled at. Unless a guide (sleeve or pulley maybe..?) was used, the cable has to be pulled straight up. Meaning the linked recliner chair part mounted from the 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock position might work. If so, that would be pretty sweet!

I might just pick one up and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the link.
 
I did mine a bit ago do this is from memory, but I believe the sheet metal is about 1/2" away from the plastic covering. You'd likely have to cut sheet metal to instal one of those flush mount handles.

The other issue would be the orientation the cable is pulled at. Unless a guide (sleeve or pulley maybe..?) was used, the cable has to be pulled straight up. Meaning the linked recliner chair part mounted from the 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock position might work. If so, that would be pretty sweet!

I might just pick one up and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the link.
I know this is an old thread but I’m hoping to do something similar. Im very curious, did you ever end up successfully installing that recliner latch?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom