INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET SEALANT QUESTION (1 Viewer)

[FJ40Jim]

In order below, temp sensor plug unit (not sure what else to call it), me pointing to the end that the wire pulled out of, picture of the end that the wire pulled out of.

Anyone know if there is a fix for this?

Pop the connectors apart and you'll see that it is a conventional quick connect spade fitting inside. Just replace the broken end w/ a crimp-on shielded spade as needed. It will lose the locktab feature, but will be electrically functional.

 

[jestlurnin]

Ran into another issue after I got her all buttoned up yesterday, hard starts, and some stumbling while in 3rd just kinda cruising. Seems to me like a timing problem. Would getting rid of an exhaust leak lead someone to checking their timing?

 

[jestlurnin]

Just saw your post Jim. Thanks for the help on the plug. I'll do that tonight. Cheers

 

[tag3]

Ran into another issue after I got her all buttoned up yesterday, hard starts, and some stumbling while in 3rd just kinda cruising. Seems to me like a timing problem. Would getting rid of an exhaust leak lead someone to checking their timing?

Do you now have a vacuum leak?

 

[Slow Left]

It is certainly possible that:
1) re-torquing caused a new vac leak (maybe uneven faces on the manifolds where the washers set...cracking the intake manifold)
2) installing the new manifold gasket exposed another vac leak in the system...or exposed some other problem

In general, if I know I did a good job installing the manifold gasket (as it sounds like you have...planing the face of the manifold assembly, etc.) and I didn't see any cracks in the intake manifold below the carb, I would do the ol' "spray" trick to test around the manifold gasket for a vac leak, and if I found none, then move forward under the assumption that I did the manifold gasket job correctly. The down side to this approach is that if you are wrong, then you can spend a lot of time chasing ghosts, unless you approach it strategically...

So,...
- Did you see any cracks in the intake manifold (the floor of the manifold below the carb) when you had it off the vehicle?
- Did you tighten down the 4 nuts that hold the carb onto the insulator/heat shield gasket to spec? (often times, removing the vac hose from that skinny pipe that comes off the insulator can loosen that pipe by cracking the insulator around it...leading to a vac leak)
- Did you correctly route the 4 vac hoses that go to the ported vac lines on the carb (Passenger side of the carb near the idle mixture screw...Advancer Port, EGR R Port....) when you reconnected them?
- Did you also replace the EGR gaskets (on the j-pipe and the inlet to the intake manifold - see image below)?

Also, I would run through the EGR System diagnosis procedure in the Emissions FSM to see if the EGR valve is operating correctly (if not, it will affect performance as a function of RPM). In general, installing new vac hoses and going through the Emissions Systems diagnosis procedures for all the Emissions systems will discount them from the problem...working back to the carb and ignition timing advance...

And, I would also buy a new PCV grommet from Toyota (~$5) and install that along with a new hose and cleaning the OEM PCV valve in a plastic bag with some Seafoam overnight...

 

[FJ40Jim]

Ran into another issue after I got her all buttoned up yesterday, hard starts, and some stumbling while in 3rd just kinda cruising. Seems to me like a timing problem. Would getting rid of an exhaust leak lead someone to checking their timing?

Do you now have a vacuum leak?

No. A vac leak is most pronounced when the throttle is closed, i.e. at idle.

The light throttle cruise stumble is usually an overactive EGR system. Plug the vac hose to the EGR valve and re-test.

Minor timing issues do not cause misfire. Stumbling = Misfire = lack of fire or fire blowing out.

 

[Slow Left]

Stumbling = Misfire = lack of fire or fire blowing out.

Jim, would valves out of adjustment ('maladjusted valves' didn't sound quite right...) cause similar symptom?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Only if they were wicked tight, and then the symptom is worse at idle. At higher engine speeds there is less time for the leaky valve(s) to bleed off, so the symptom fades at high RPM.