Here are the instructions I used to get the JW Speaker LED lights to work in my 1990 62. I’m not a mechanic, elecrician or a very bright guy so if I can get it to work, anybody should be able to do so. It took me a while to do this but most of the time was compiling information which I have cut and pasted below to put everything in one place.
If you want to cut the crap and just figure out how to do it, go to section two.
A couple of thoughts:
You do not need to run new power to the lights. The stock wiring is adequate. The issue here is that the Japanese borrowed a page from the British play book and the wiring is reversed. What we are doing here is modifying the wiring so it speaks North American (all the dudes who helped me with this are Canadian but surprisingly I could understand them on the phone - good people). In this process you will make a simple wiring harness so you do not need to modify your stock wiring harness at all.
There is concern that the LED lights don’t get hot enough to melt snow and ice but the new EVO 8800 lights have heater coils on the lights and I can confirm that they work keeping the lens warm. I have not used them in snow yet.
These things are expensive. I grappled with this but my kids drive this car and it is a safety issue for me. If I had known what a huge difference it made, I would have done it earlier. It’s as good as my wife’s 2015 Lexus GX.
The company let me know that if there is enough interest from MUD, they will make the wiring harnesses and sell them with the product.
Finally, I’m providing this information as a good samaritan. If it doesn’t work for you, cuss, kick your dog and recheck everything to make sure you did it correctly, you probably crossed wires (ask me how I know) but do not get mad at me.
This is pretty lengthy and I have copied and pasted the relevant information from a series of e-mails. It’s in 4 sections.
Section one explains hot to get the lights from HP lighting. These guys were great and were in the land cruiser business before they got into the lighting business and have done these modifications themselves. Albeit on 80 series. I would purchase from them instead of Amazon. Throw some love their way, they helped me with these directions.
Section two explains how to get them working. It sounds complicated but it is not. Follow the instructions step by step. It’s easier than it first appears. get 2 sets of jumper wires and hook everything up with jumper wires to be sure it works. if you hook the wires up backwards, you will not hurt the lights. Personal experience.
Section three explains how to make an adapter to get the high beam indicator light working. This is optional if the high beam indicator is no big deal to you. Might as well do it right and get them working.
Section four is cut and pasted from an e-mail from Daniel Stern from automotive lighting products with all the lighting upgrades he recomends for the 60 series. This is also optional. He says these lights are plug and play, but they are not for reasons listed above.
Setion One:
If you think there is enough interest in the Landcruiser community, we could make up several wiring adapters and relay assemblies to create some plug-and-play kits for 60 series cruisers.
Rather than referring people to our amazon listing, please send them to www.highperformancelighting.ca, which is a reseller that buys from us. Amazon takes a pretty big chunk and our dealer could use the support more than Amazon. They have very competitive pricing and great customer service. That is where I would list the plug-and-play kits if we decide to build and market them.
Section Two:
Directions to get your new JW Speaker LED headlights functioning properly in your 60 Series Toyota Landcruiser is as follows:
Step 1: Identify which wire is power and which is ground on your truck's high-beam headlight connector.
The power wire on your truck's high-beam headlight connector will have power going to it during both low-beam and high-beam operation. The ground wire on your truck's high-beam headlight connector will only be grounded when the truck is in high-beam mode. Try plugging one high-beam LED headlight into the truck's high-beam (2 wire) connector in different orientations until it works. The red wire on the headlight is the power (+) wire, so whichever wire in your truck's high-beam headlight connector is connected to the red wire is the power wire.
Step 2: Verify that the power wire on your truck's high-beam headlight connector is powered during low-beam and high-beam operation.
Switch the headlights to low-beam and then connect only the red wire of the high-beam LED headlight to only the power wire of the truck's high-beam headlight connector. You can do this with a jumper wire or by aligning the two connectors in such a way that only the one pin is mated. Then touch the ground pin of the LED headlight to a grounding point on your vehicle by touching it to the chassis or using a jumper wire to the chassis or the (-) battery post.
I suggest that you take power from the truck's high-beam headlight plug to operate both the low-beam and the high-beam headlight, this will leave the truck's low-beam headlight plugs free for getting your high-beam indicator working again.
Step 3: Connect the power wire of the truck's high-beam headlight connector to both the Red wire of the LED high-beam headlight AND the White wire of the LED low-beam headlight
Step 4: Connect the ground wire of the truck's high-beam headlight connector to the Black wire of the LED high-beam headlight
Step 5: Connect the Black wire of the LED low-beam headlight directly to a grounding point on the vehicle
At this point both low beam and high beam headlights should function properly, but I expect that your high-beam indicator will not work.
Here is what you need to make the connections wihtout modifying your original wiring harness:
Here's a couple of options for wiring connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q3UZQ50
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097AA478
You can easily find other similar products if you search for
"H4 pigtail male"
"H4 pigtail female"
"H4 socket female"
You will need 3 male connectors and 4 female connectors. One of the male connectors will be used to fix your high beam indicator.
Section Three:
Here is how you fix the high beam indicator:
Here is the list of items that you will need to get your high beam indicator working again:
• One male H4 pigtail (mentioned in my previous email)
• One 12V Relay and Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JPPQH6
◦ Any 12V relay and socket should work except for “NC” (normally closed) type relays. Relays and sockets should readily available at any auto parts store
• One resistor (this is where you get to make a decision)
◦ I would suggest a 10ohm resistor capable of handling 5 watts, similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087ZE402
◦ The resistor can have a resistance anywhere from 1 to 50 ohm (I don’t recommend less than 5 ohm or more than 30). The resistance you choose will determine how bright your high beam indicator light is. A 5 ohm resistor will make the indicator about as bright as it was with the original headlights. Increasing the resistance to 10, 20 or 30 ohms will reduce the brightness of your high beam indicator by roughly 10, 20 and 30% respectively. Some people find that the high beam indicator is brighter than necessary with the original headlight setup.
◦ The catch with this resistor is that, due to the Toyota wiring setup, the resistor gets a full 12 volts when you use the “flash mode” of your vehicles headlights (pulling the high/low beam lever towards the steering wheel briefly). If someone were to hold the lever in flash mode, the resistor would get very hot and burn out. If you want to avoid this possibility, the resistor must be able to handle the full 12 volts indefinitely. In order to calculate what size (wattage) of resistor is necessary, you must take the voltage squared and divide it by the resistance that you choose (P = V2/R) P = Power in watts, V = voltage, R = resistance in ohms. If you choose a 10 ohm resistor and assume an operating voltage of 14.4 volts, the resistor must be able to handle at least 20.736 watts. A 10 ohm, 20 watt resistor (similar to www.amazon.com/dp/B0087YHQLW) would probably be very safe. If you aren’t concerned about someone holding the flash mode on for more than a few seconds at a time, I think a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor would be more than adequate. In most cases where the flash mode is only ever used for a quick flash, a 1 watt resistor would probably be just fine. The system will operate just fine with no resistor in place until you try to use flash mode, at which time you will blow both headlight fuses.
If your truck is set up for H4656 sealed beam headlights, which I believe it is, your truck’s low beam headlight connector should be configured as shown in this image:
Note: The pictures and diagrams did not copy over. If you DM me, I can e-mail them to you
Here is a basic diagram of a basic “NO” (normally open) relay:
Terminals 85 and 86 are the “activation” side of the relay and terminals 87 and 30 are the “switched” side of the relay. When you apply 12 volts across terminals 85 and 86 (in either direction), the relay closes the switch connecting terminals 30 and 87. You should hear the relay click when you apply power to the activation terminals.
The common (+) terminal of one of your truck’s low beam plugs must be connected to one terminal on the activation side of the relay AND one terminal on the switched side of the relay. The high-beam terminal of must be connected to the other terminal on the activation side of the relay. The low beam terminal must be connected to the other terminal on the switched side of the relay with the resistor connected in-line.
I’ve attached an image of the high beam indicator fixer that I just pulled out of my 80 series cruiser so you can see how these 3 pieces look assembled. The lead on one end of my resistor broke, probably due to corrosion. The 80 series cruiser is wired for H4 headlight bulbs and I believe your 60 series is wired for H4656 sealed beam headlights so don’t try to use this image as a guide for your wiring configuration.
Section Four:
E-mail from Daniel Stern at Automotive Lighting Products:
The original headlamps are sealed beams. No matter what brand or when made, these are primitive and barely marginally adequate. They produce a dim, narrow, brownish tunnel of poorly-focused light, very little light on the road surface, no side spill, and a great deal of upward stray light that causes backdazzle in bad weather. You can do much better than these, but you have to be picky and shop carefully because most of what's on the market is junk (though all of it is advertised as an "upgrade").
If you want the top-of-the-heap option, it's these American-made LED headlamps, which are phenomenally good and will not require relays because they draw less current than even the weak sealed beams:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6BYMIQ/?tag=2402507-20 (low beam) and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6C3PRY/?tag=2402507-20 (high beam)
Step down from there is these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5VQSOM/?tag=2402507-20 (low beam)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5VJUCO/?tag=2402507-20 (high beam)
EIther of these will drop right in place of the sealed beams, and won't require relays or any wiring modifications (power consumption lower than even the weak sealed beams). They are not cheap in any sense of the word; this, especially the JW Speaker item, is a commercial-grade headlamp popular with over-the-road truckers and bus fleet owners. They work and hold up extremely well. But they also cost a lot of money! You'll see a whole lot of imitations of these products, including presentations right on the Amazon pages. JUNK, all of it, do not buy.
If that much money isn't in the budget for headlamps, then the shopping list looks like this:
Cibie parabolic-reflector replaceable-bulb halogen headlamp units, $89/ea (Set of 4 = $356)
Philips H4+130 high/low beam bulbs, $43.18/pair
Flosser-Narva 55w+50 high-beam bulbs, $35.18/pair.
Wiring adaptors, $49/pair
All of this equipment will operate safely (i.e., no fires or other such badness) on the unmodified stock wiring.
Other upgrades worth doing:
Can also make your front and rear sidemarker lights 60% brighter for safer side-on visibility of the car at night, $4.59/bulb.
Your front turn signals are presently invisible from the side, but there is an easy modification you can make to the front side marker lights' hookup so that they do double-duty as side markers _and_ side turn signal flashers, see Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply . This is a very good safety improvement, as your turn signals become visible to the side (cars in the next lane, bicyclists, pedestrians) instead of just front- or rear-on. It is also fully road-legal.
With your two-wire side marker lights you have two options for how to do this, both described at the link. Use the logic module method (module kit $59) if you want the side markers always to flash in phase with the front and rear indicators, or use the cross-feed method (no module required, just a couple of wire connectors) if you don't mind opposite-phase flashing of the front side marker light when the parking lamps or headlamps are lit. Either way is legal throughout North America; elsewhere in the world, international rules do not permit opposite-phase flashing because it's considered potentially confusing to an observer who can see both the front and the side flashers at the same time.
I also have excellent high-quality LED center 3rd brake light retrofit kits from Hella New Zealand; see Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply -- definitely not the dimestore junk that flooded the market in the '80s and '90s. It is $77.59 for the lamp kit with installation supplies and materials. You'd need a Model 39 for your FJ62.
Daytime running lights significantly reduce your risk of being in a crash during the daytime, and are required equipment in Canada, throughout Europe, and in a large and growing number of other countries throughout the world because they are a very cost-effective safety device (i.e., they work). You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($59); see DRL-1 Daytime Running Lamp Module Installation for instructions and demonstration videos. This is the best way to put a daytime running light function on a vehicle not originally equipped (or which has had its headlamp-based DRLs disabled for nstallation of headlight relays). The module enables the steady-burning operation of both front directional signals as daytime running lights (except, of course, when you're signalling
for a turn). They produce a light distribution with a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than a headlight bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. A large variety of vehicles from a wide array of makers use this implementation. It is steady-lit operation of the bright amber turn signals (except when they are flashing to signal a turn) -- it is not steady operation of the dim parking lamps; parking lights are not bright enough and don't have the right view angles to serve the daytime running light function. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories.
*For items with a price quote in this email:*
Any items I've quoted prices on are items I sell myself. For those, please use the instructions that follow this section.
*For items I've linked in this email:*
Kindly please use the links I provided so Amazon will toss me a small referral bonus -- without increasing the price to you. That is how I am able to afford to keep offering sound advice through personalized consulting whether or not I sell the optimal parts for your upgrade.
_HOW TO ORDER:_
Orders may be sent via e-mail. You may also voicemail or fax your order toll-free on 1-866-861-8668. Please note this is a secure recorded orderline only.
PLEASE INDICATE:
- The *vehicle(s)* for which the parts are being ordered,
- The *items* you wish to purchase,
- The *address* where you want the items shipped if it differs from the billing address,
- Your *telephone number*
- The type of *shipping* you wish.
All items are warehoused in the USA. Priority Mail shipping is standard on shipments within the US, to Canada, and internationally; all other service levels are available on request. FedEx shipping is available upon request.
Please also state whether the delivery driver has your permission to leave the parcel at your doorstep if you are not available to accept and sign for it in person, though be advised PayPal and most credit card processors including mine require signed delivery for shipments over a certain value; waiving the signature waives all buyer _and_ seller protection for the transaction.
_PAYMENT METHODS:_
I accept PayPal. If you wish to use PayPal, please send your shopping list and I will send you a PayPal invoice from which to pay. Please _do not attempt_ to pay by PayPal until you have received a PayPal invoice for your order.
I also accept Visa, Mastercard, and Discover. Orders are processed securely and customer card info is never retained after processing your order.
*All* of the following information is required in order to process a credit card order:
-Card number
-Expiry date
-CVV code (last group of 3 or 4 digits on back of card)
-Your name as it appears on the card
-Billing address
-Phone number
I look forward to receiving and filling your order.
Cheers and drive safely,
Daniel Stern
Hope this helps somebody. Good Luck with your upgrade.
If you want to cut the crap and just figure out how to do it, go to section two.
A couple of thoughts:
You do not need to run new power to the lights. The stock wiring is adequate. The issue here is that the Japanese borrowed a page from the British play book and the wiring is reversed. What we are doing here is modifying the wiring so it speaks North American (all the dudes who helped me with this are Canadian but surprisingly I could understand them on the phone - good people). In this process you will make a simple wiring harness so you do not need to modify your stock wiring harness at all.
There is concern that the LED lights don’t get hot enough to melt snow and ice but the new EVO 8800 lights have heater coils on the lights and I can confirm that they work keeping the lens warm. I have not used them in snow yet.
These things are expensive. I grappled with this but my kids drive this car and it is a safety issue for me. If I had known what a huge difference it made, I would have done it earlier. It’s as good as my wife’s 2015 Lexus GX.
The company let me know that if there is enough interest from MUD, they will make the wiring harnesses and sell them with the product.
Finally, I’m providing this information as a good samaritan. If it doesn’t work for you, cuss, kick your dog and recheck everything to make sure you did it correctly, you probably crossed wires (ask me how I know) but do not get mad at me.
This is pretty lengthy and I have copied and pasted the relevant information from a series of e-mails. It’s in 4 sections.
Section one explains hot to get the lights from HP lighting. These guys were great and were in the land cruiser business before they got into the lighting business and have done these modifications themselves. Albeit on 80 series. I would purchase from them instead of Amazon. Throw some love their way, they helped me with these directions.
Section two explains how to get them working. It sounds complicated but it is not. Follow the instructions step by step. It’s easier than it first appears. get 2 sets of jumper wires and hook everything up with jumper wires to be sure it works. if you hook the wires up backwards, you will not hurt the lights. Personal experience.
Section three explains how to make an adapter to get the high beam indicator light working. This is optional if the high beam indicator is no big deal to you. Might as well do it right and get them working.
Section four is cut and pasted from an e-mail from Daniel Stern from automotive lighting products with all the lighting upgrades he recomends for the 60 series. This is also optional. He says these lights are plug and play, but they are not for reasons listed above.
Setion One:
If you think there is enough interest in the Landcruiser community, we could make up several wiring adapters and relay assemblies to create some plug-and-play kits for 60 series cruisers.
Rather than referring people to our amazon listing, please send them to www.highperformancelighting.ca, which is a reseller that buys from us. Amazon takes a pretty big chunk and our dealer could use the support more than Amazon. They have very competitive pricing and great customer service. That is where I would list the plug-and-play kits if we decide to build and market them.
Section Two:
Directions to get your new JW Speaker LED headlights functioning properly in your 60 Series Toyota Landcruiser is as follows:
Step 1: Identify which wire is power and which is ground on your truck's high-beam headlight connector.
The power wire on your truck's high-beam headlight connector will have power going to it during both low-beam and high-beam operation. The ground wire on your truck's high-beam headlight connector will only be grounded when the truck is in high-beam mode. Try plugging one high-beam LED headlight into the truck's high-beam (2 wire) connector in different orientations until it works. The red wire on the headlight is the power (+) wire, so whichever wire in your truck's high-beam headlight connector is connected to the red wire is the power wire.
Step 2: Verify that the power wire on your truck's high-beam headlight connector is powered during low-beam and high-beam operation.
Switch the headlights to low-beam and then connect only the red wire of the high-beam LED headlight to only the power wire of the truck's high-beam headlight connector. You can do this with a jumper wire or by aligning the two connectors in such a way that only the one pin is mated. Then touch the ground pin of the LED headlight to a grounding point on your vehicle by touching it to the chassis or using a jumper wire to the chassis or the (-) battery post.
I suggest that you take power from the truck's high-beam headlight plug to operate both the low-beam and the high-beam headlight, this will leave the truck's low-beam headlight plugs free for getting your high-beam indicator working again.
Step 3: Connect the power wire of the truck's high-beam headlight connector to both the Red wire of the LED high-beam headlight AND the White wire of the LED low-beam headlight
Step 4: Connect the ground wire of the truck's high-beam headlight connector to the Black wire of the LED high-beam headlight
Step 5: Connect the Black wire of the LED low-beam headlight directly to a grounding point on the vehicle
At this point both low beam and high beam headlights should function properly, but I expect that your high-beam indicator will not work.
Here is what you need to make the connections wihtout modifying your original wiring harness:
Here's a couple of options for wiring connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q3UZQ50
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097AA478
You can easily find other similar products if you search for
"H4 pigtail male"
"H4 pigtail female"
"H4 socket female"
You will need 3 male connectors and 4 female connectors. One of the male connectors will be used to fix your high beam indicator.
Section Three:
Here is how you fix the high beam indicator:
Here is the list of items that you will need to get your high beam indicator working again:
• One male H4 pigtail (mentioned in my previous email)
• One 12V Relay and Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JPPQH6
◦ Any 12V relay and socket should work except for “NC” (normally closed) type relays. Relays and sockets should readily available at any auto parts store
• One resistor (this is where you get to make a decision)
◦ I would suggest a 10ohm resistor capable of handling 5 watts, similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087ZE402
◦ The resistor can have a resistance anywhere from 1 to 50 ohm (I don’t recommend less than 5 ohm or more than 30). The resistance you choose will determine how bright your high beam indicator light is. A 5 ohm resistor will make the indicator about as bright as it was with the original headlights. Increasing the resistance to 10, 20 or 30 ohms will reduce the brightness of your high beam indicator by roughly 10, 20 and 30% respectively. Some people find that the high beam indicator is brighter than necessary with the original headlight setup.
◦ The catch with this resistor is that, due to the Toyota wiring setup, the resistor gets a full 12 volts when you use the “flash mode” of your vehicles headlights (pulling the high/low beam lever towards the steering wheel briefly). If someone were to hold the lever in flash mode, the resistor would get very hot and burn out. If you want to avoid this possibility, the resistor must be able to handle the full 12 volts indefinitely. In order to calculate what size (wattage) of resistor is necessary, you must take the voltage squared and divide it by the resistance that you choose (P = V2/R) P = Power in watts, V = voltage, R = resistance in ohms. If you choose a 10 ohm resistor and assume an operating voltage of 14.4 volts, the resistor must be able to handle at least 20.736 watts. A 10 ohm, 20 watt resistor (similar to www.amazon.com/dp/B0087YHQLW) would probably be very safe. If you aren’t concerned about someone holding the flash mode on for more than a few seconds at a time, I think a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor would be more than adequate. In most cases where the flash mode is only ever used for a quick flash, a 1 watt resistor would probably be just fine. The system will operate just fine with no resistor in place until you try to use flash mode, at which time you will blow both headlight fuses.
If your truck is set up for H4656 sealed beam headlights, which I believe it is, your truck’s low beam headlight connector should be configured as shown in this image:
Note: The pictures and diagrams did not copy over. If you DM me, I can e-mail them to you
Here is a basic diagram of a basic “NO” (normally open) relay:
Terminals 85 and 86 are the “activation” side of the relay and terminals 87 and 30 are the “switched” side of the relay. When you apply 12 volts across terminals 85 and 86 (in either direction), the relay closes the switch connecting terminals 30 and 87. You should hear the relay click when you apply power to the activation terminals.
The common (+) terminal of one of your truck’s low beam plugs must be connected to one terminal on the activation side of the relay AND one terminal on the switched side of the relay. The high-beam terminal of must be connected to the other terminal on the activation side of the relay. The low beam terminal must be connected to the other terminal on the switched side of the relay with the resistor connected in-line.
I’ve attached an image of the high beam indicator fixer that I just pulled out of my 80 series cruiser so you can see how these 3 pieces look assembled. The lead on one end of my resistor broke, probably due to corrosion. The 80 series cruiser is wired for H4 headlight bulbs and I believe your 60 series is wired for H4656 sealed beam headlights so don’t try to use this image as a guide for your wiring configuration.
Section Four:
E-mail from Daniel Stern at Automotive Lighting Products:
The original headlamps are sealed beams. No matter what brand or when made, these are primitive and barely marginally adequate. They produce a dim, narrow, brownish tunnel of poorly-focused light, very little light on the road surface, no side spill, and a great deal of upward stray light that causes backdazzle in bad weather. You can do much better than these, but you have to be picky and shop carefully because most of what's on the market is junk (though all of it is advertised as an "upgrade").
If you want the top-of-the-heap option, it's these American-made LED headlamps, which are phenomenally good and will not require relays because they draw less current than even the weak sealed beams:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6BYMIQ/?tag=2402507-20 (low beam) and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6C3PRY/?tag=2402507-20 (high beam)
Step down from there is these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5VQSOM/?tag=2402507-20 (low beam)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5VJUCO/?tag=2402507-20 (high beam)
EIther of these will drop right in place of the sealed beams, and won't require relays or any wiring modifications (power consumption lower than even the weak sealed beams). They are not cheap in any sense of the word; this, especially the JW Speaker item, is a commercial-grade headlamp popular with over-the-road truckers and bus fleet owners. They work and hold up extremely well. But they also cost a lot of money! You'll see a whole lot of imitations of these products, including presentations right on the Amazon pages. JUNK, all of it, do not buy.
If that much money isn't in the budget for headlamps, then the shopping list looks like this:
Cibie parabolic-reflector replaceable-bulb halogen headlamp units, $89/ea (Set of 4 = $356)
Philips H4+130 high/low beam bulbs, $43.18/pair
Flosser-Narva 55w+50 high-beam bulbs, $35.18/pair.
Wiring adaptors, $49/pair
All of this equipment will operate safely (i.e., no fires or other such badness) on the unmodified stock wiring.
Other upgrades worth doing:
Can also make your front and rear sidemarker lights 60% brighter for safer side-on visibility of the car at night, $4.59/bulb.
Your front turn signals are presently invisible from the side, but there is an easy modification you can make to the front side marker lights' hookup so that they do double-duty as side markers _and_ side turn signal flashers, see Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply . This is a very good safety improvement, as your turn signals become visible to the side (cars in the next lane, bicyclists, pedestrians) instead of just front- or rear-on. It is also fully road-legal.
With your two-wire side marker lights you have two options for how to do this, both described at the link. Use the logic module method (module kit $59) if you want the side markers always to flash in phase with the front and rear indicators, or use the cross-feed method (no module required, just a couple of wire connectors) if you don't mind opposite-phase flashing of the front side marker light when the parking lamps or headlamps are lit. Either way is legal throughout North America; elsewhere in the world, international rules do not permit opposite-phase flashing because it's considered potentially confusing to an observer who can see both the front and the side flashers at the same time.
I also have excellent high-quality LED center 3rd brake light retrofit kits from Hella New Zealand; see Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply -- definitely not the dimestore junk that flooded the market in the '80s and '90s. It is $77.59 for the lamp kit with installation supplies and materials. You'd need a Model 39 for your FJ62.
Daytime running lights significantly reduce your risk of being in a crash during the daytime, and are required equipment in Canada, throughout Europe, and in a large and growing number of other countries throughout the world because they are a very cost-effective safety device (i.e., they work). You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($59); see DRL-1 Daytime Running Lamp Module Installation for instructions and demonstration videos. This is the best way to put a daytime running light function on a vehicle not originally equipped (or which has had its headlamp-based DRLs disabled for nstallation of headlight relays). The module enables the steady-burning operation of both front directional signals as daytime running lights (except, of course, when you're signalling
for a turn). They produce a light distribution with a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than a headlight bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. A large variety of vehicles from a wide array of makers use this implementation. It is steady-lit operation of the bright amber turn signals (except when they are flashing to signal a turn) -- it is not steady operation of the dim parking lamps; parking lights are not bright enough and don't have the right view angles to serve the daytime running light function. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories.
*For items with a price quote in this email:*
Any items I've quoted prices on are items I sell myself. For those, please use the instructions that follow this section.
*For items I've linked in this email:*
Kindly please use the links I provided so Amazon will toss me a small referral bonus -- without increasing the price to you. That is how I am able to afford to keep offering sound advice through personalized consulting whether or not I sell the optimal parts for your upgrade.
_HOW TO ORDER:_
Orders may be sent via e-mail. You may also voicemail or fax your order toll-free on 1-866-861-8668. Please note this is a secure recorded orderline only.
PLEASE INDICATE:
- The *vehicle(s)* for which the parts are being ordered,
- The *items* you wish to purchase,
- The *address* where you want the items shipped if it differs from the billing address,
- Your *telephone number*
- The type of *shipping* you wish.
All items are warehoused in the USA. Priority Mail shipping is standard on shipments within the US, to Canada, and internationally; all other service levels are available on request. FedEx shipping is available upon request.
Please also state whether the delivery driver has your permission to leave the parcel at your doorstep if you are not available to accept and sign for it in person, though be advised PayPal and most credit card processors including mine require signed delivery for shipments over a certain value; waiving the signature waives all buyer _and_ seller protection for the transaction.
_PAYMENT METHODS:_
I accept PayPal. If you wish to use PayPal, please send your shopping list and I will send you a PayPal invoice from which to pay. Please _do not attempt_ to pay by PayPal until you have received a PayPal invoice for your order.
I also accept Visa, Mastercard, and Discover. Orders are processed securely and customer card info is never retained after processing your order.
*All* of the following information is required in order to process a credit card order:
-Card number
-Expiry date
-CVV code (last group of 3 or 4 digits on back of card)
-Your name as it appears on the card
-Billing address
-Phone number
I look forward to receiving and filling your order.
Cheers and drive safely,
Daniel Stern
Hope this helps somebody. Good Luck with your upgrade.
