Instead of PullPal....follow up

[Atticus]

I would never ask you to "take my word for it", google it.

You'll find that the most commonly used electrodes (6011,6010,7018,etc) have very high tensile strengths (psi).

The first number in the designation is the tensile strength, the second denotes the position the electrode is suitable for (1=all position) the last.. refers to various characteristics such as flux composition, burn rate, etc...

"MIG" wires typically go 60-70K as well.

Of course, tensile strength is not the only consideration. Adequate penetration must be had to ensure a proper weld. From what I can see, the welds on his winch buddy appear to be fine for his purpose, so I'm not "guessing", just suggesting that everyone pay attention to it.

Like you, I am a stickler for safety anytime a winch is involved. Believe me, if I had seen anything "suspect" about his winch buddy, I would be the first to point it out.

As for the trailer ball being launched, was it "welded" on?

You are the one who used the word "assume" in your initial post about penetration of the weld. I was not trying to throw the word back in your face. I know nothing about welding. Just suggesting an easy implemented, practicable, possibly safer design.

The ball was being used as recovery point. I was a kid. It popped off. ZING!

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I have faith in my welds

I've already had the winch seize up on me using the winch buddy, so I'm not at worried about it breaking, but the whole thing becoming a projectile is a possibility (especially in soft soil), so I'll definitely use caution while yanking...

 

[Atticus]

I have faith in my welds

I've already had the winch seize up on me using the winch buddy, so I'm not at worried about it breaking, but the whole thing becoming a projectile is a possibility (especially in soft soil), so I'll definitely use caution while yanking...

That's cool. I wasn't trying to offend anyone.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

No offense taken


If you've seen some of the ghetto$h!t I've done in the past, you'd be scared to use anything I made lol

 

[flintknapper]

You are the one who used the word "assume" in your initial post about penetration of the weld. I was not trying to throw the word back in your face. I know nothing about welding. Just suggesting an easy implemented, practicable, possibly safer design.

The ball was being used as recovery point. I was a kid. It popped off. ZING!

Yup,

Not that uncommon. For many years there have been cheap "imported" tow balls offered to the buying public. The quality/integrity of these items from a metallurgical standpoint can be pretty dicey.

Add to that....folks using "snatch straps" attached to them and then "spike loading" them by getting a run on 8-10 feet of loose (un-tensioned) strap and the results are predictable. Its a small miracle it doesn't happen more often than it does.

Using a tow ball for a winch point is an equally bad idea if the anticipated "pull" is to exceed 3,000-4,000 lbs. max., and then... only in an emergency.

But, things are better today than yesteryear. I see more folks using "shackles" and multiple recovery points than in days gone by.

Even if you don't create a missile or break a rope, you can "tweak" the frame of a vehicle on heavy pulls if you don't have good recovery points.

It goes without saying.. that your "Anchor" should be adequate (and safe) for the task at hand.

I share your concern for total winching safety.

 

[flintknapper]

I have faith in my welds

I've already had the winch seize up on me using the winch buddy, so I'm not at worried about it breaking, but the whole thing becoming a projectile is a possibility (especially in soft soil), so I'll definitely use caution while yanking...

It won't be a problem. These anchors simply do not suddenly let go. The soil will either have enough resistance or it won't.

Your winch speed is fairly slow (especially on a double line) and you will be able to tell very quickly if the anchor is migrating.

There really isn't any chance for the cable to load up enough and the anchor slip enough.. to ever become a projectile if used as intended.

I would use a double line pull (as you did in your video) anytime that I could.

It's easier on the winch, it divides the load on the line, it affords a second recovery point on your cart and it slows down the winching process giving you better control.

It does allow the winch to develop approx. twice the pulling power, which is applied to the snatch block and anchor... but you have plenty of anchor for this vehicle IMO.

 

[brew8]

A winch on a golf cart, gotta love that, cheeers, Larry

 

[flintknapper]

A winch on a golf cart, gotta love that, cheeers, Larry

Makes you wonder how much time he spends in the "rough"?


I can't play golf, it aggravates me too much. I admire those who can stick with it long enough to get good.

 

[the truck doctor]

great idea! simple but effective

 

[jasonmt]

I can't tell from the pics. whether the parts were "Arc" welded or "MIG", but either way...the rod/wire strength will run about 60,000 to 70,000 psi (tensile).

Assuming proper penetration and clean metal....he's gonna be O.K.

Most shackle bodies are made of medium to high carbon steel (1045 is pretty common with a Carbon content of 0.43 - 0.50) which will typically leave a hard and brittle HAZ...

A Martensitic structure in the HAZ is not a desirable property which is why the higher carbon steels are not considered readily weldable nor would most people familiar with the subject would consider as a suitable weldment in the pictured situation.

 

[flintknapper]

Most shackle bodies are made of medium to high carbon steel (1045 is pretty common with a Carbon content of 0.43 - 0.50) which will typically leave a hard and brittle HAZ...

A Martensitic structure in the HAZ is not a desirable property which is why the higher carbon steels are not considered readily weldable nor would most people familiar with the subject would consider as a suitable weldment in the pictured situation.

I'm sure we all appreciate the lesson in metallurgy, now...lets get to the crux of the matter. Are you saying that the Shackle and Weld depicted in this particular set is Dangerous (with consideration to its intended use), or simply letting us know that it is not "ideal"?

Thanks,

Flint.

 

[e9999]

I'm sure we all appreciate the lesson in metallurgy, now...lets get to the crux of the matter. Are you saying that the Shackle and Weld depicted in this particular set is Dangerous (with consideration to its intended use), or simply letting us know that it is not "ideal"?

Thanks,

Flint.

I looked up my Babelfish "Polite Obscure Metallurgy" to "English", and it came up with "What kind of a would try and weld an unweldable shackle to a rod?"...

Now, I only I knew what HAZ means.... I'm gonna guess Heat Affected Zone, but who knows...

 

[flintknapper]

I looked up my Babelfish "Polite Obscure Metallurgy" to "English", and it came up with "What kind of a would try and weld an unweldable shackle to a rod?"...

Now, I only I knew what HAZ means.... I'm gonna guess Heat Affected Zone, but who knows...

Thats good.

 

[jasonmt]

I looked up my Babelfish "Polite Obscure Metallurgy" to "English", and it came up with "What kind of a would try and weld an unweldable shackle to a rod?"...

Now, I only I knew what HAZ means.... I'm gonna guess Heat Affected Zone, but who knows...

Pretty close but with the caveat that going from "not readily weldable" to "unweldable" is a bit of a stretch.

 

[K-808]

It's not a matter of whether or not it can be welded, it obvious that it can be...

The point Jason is making is that the WLL rating is compromised..... how much ??

I don't know ... I just know I don't want to find out. That is why I bolt and pin some items and weld others...........

my $0.02 or fuel to the fire, depending on your perspective...


gr

 

[MARLIN375]

Might be against the engineers instructions in its application but I would bet a that the 2000 lb cable or the frame horns on that GC will fail before that shackle breaks at both ends of that weld.



That being said I do agree that any "certified" shackle, block, hook or sling is no longer "certified" once it has been modified (welded) or used for something it was not intended. UAYOR.

 

[flintknapper]

Might be against the engineers instructions in its application but I would bet a that the 2000 lb cable or the frame horns on that GC will fail before that shackle breaks at both ends of that weld.



That being said I do agree that any "certified" shackle, block, hook or sling is no longer "certified" once it has been modified (welded) or used for something it was not intended. UAYOR.

^ +1 on both points.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Just weld a tab with a hole on and use the shackle "properly".

Or, I had another idea, set the shackle on the ground and hammer the anchor through it. The pull on the line will tend to slide the shackle down the rod to the ground, assuming you hammered it in at a decent angle. This keeps a nice low "point of attachment" and mechanical advantage preventing the anchor from bending. Also, if you hit bedrock before full insertion, you won't bend the anchor.

Just a thought.

 

[Hendrik]

Love that winch on the golf cart !!

 

[craptabulous]

i recommend welding a chunk of steel on the end of the axle shaft like you have to anyone who decides to make one of these .

i once made a drift for putting together excavator tracks out of a broken skidder axle , about 30 hits in with the sledge a big chunk of hardened axle shaft broke off and jammed into my face . it was tonnes of fun .