Installing Wheel Hub Studs - What is the correct way? (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

I have some IFS hubs for the FROR tundra brake upgrade and I bought all new studs to install. They are not like knuckle studs that have the torx head for installation.

What is the correct procedure for install? Just enough torque to bottom them out using two nuts? Using blue loctite in addition?

After searching mud and reading a bunch of threads there is no real good answer.

 

[Skniper]

Wheel studs?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

No, the studs that are on the end of the wheel hub. The manual locking hubs go over these studs.

 

[Seth S]

are you referring to the studs on the outer diameter of this photo or on the inner diameter of this photo?

 

[mattressking]

Double nut, blue loc-tite is never a bad addition. Go until the threads end and snug it down. Somewhere someone has posted the torque specs that the manual calls out for each bolt size...I usually go by that/feel.

 

[FJ60Seth]

I’ve never seen a good answer to this. I blue Loctite and double nut to feel.

Do your new studs have an equal amount of thread from the center? All the OEM looking studs I’ve removed have a long side & short side and the long side is always in the hub. The after market studs have the torx head on the long side.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

OEM studs in the mail, will be here wednesday. No aftermarket, no ARP hardened etc.


@Seth S
I am talking about the small inner ones. Not the outer ones.

 

[Seth S]

Gotcha. My experience with any true thread in stud is that they bottom out or they run out of threads. No need to go hog wild with tightening them. make sure the studs and holes are clean and dry or else the loctite wont work. Apply the blue loctite and wind the studs in until they stop turning...give them a slight elbow torque and should be good. also there are some stud sockets that can make install and removal very handy. the ones I like have 3 rollers inside that ramp tight around the stud and make it easy to install or remove without damaging the surface or threads. something like this:



as long as you are not torquing down at high numbers those sockets will work. I know nothing about the brand in the video....just that the video explains the tool well

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Interesting socket. Their website says use the socket only for removal, not install.

 

[OSS]

The force on those studs is lateral shear. It doesn't matter how tight they're screwed in just so long as they bottom out. They're not going to unscrew while driving because of the cap nuts.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Interesting socket. Their website says use the socket only for removal, not install.

I use that for removal and it’s the bomb. I like to double nut to install so I can feel how tight is tight enough.

 

[Spike Strip]

Double-nut and tighten. A small drop of blue or purple or any low/medium-strength locker can't hurt, but if the OEM ones you've ordered don't have it on the threads, it's prolly not needed. I use anti-seize and I've never had one loosen.

Those Stud-lug sockets bugger threads.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Those Stud-lug sockets bugger threads.

I always tighten on the unthreaded part of the stud.

 

[Seth S]

When you get the old studs out it might be a good idea to run a tap through the original holes just to make sure everything is clean in there before you reassemble.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The IFS hubs came off a 2WD 4Runner so there were no studs. There was a cap over the hub instead of a manual hub and this cap was held on by bolts. I just finished painting the whole hub so I will definitely be chasing the holes before installing the studs.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Bare, bead blasted with some sort of aluminum media, yellow epoxy primer, final grey urethane epoxy top coat. Total paint thickness around .004"

 

[cruisermatt]

Randy for what you do with your rig you should do the ARP 7/16” upgrade

 

[lcwizard]

There's really not enough material for a 7/16 upgrade. I do 3/8 quite often. I also use red or high strength locktite
rather than medium. The cone washers generally keep things tight but once the studs loosened even a tiny bit the holes can
start hammering out and the fit becomes loose. I would rather have the strongest locktite and have to apply a little heat to dis assemble than risk damage from a loose stud. Once the studs have been out, your new concern is thoroughly cleaning
the internal threads. Locktite doesn't work as well in a oily hole. @Randy88FJ62 shows a good example of a hub clean and
ready to reassemble .

 

[Randy88FJ62]

@cruisermatt, I don't like the idea of heavily modified hubs since spares won't be available if needed. Ironic given I am doing the FROR brake setup which isn't exactly stock either.

I was looking into ARP studs and I did not like the idea of brittle hard steel in there over oem soft grade 8.8 hardware. Not to mention the cost is absurd. Hubs are cheap and plentiful here in Los Angeles.

@lcwizard, I guess red loctite may be an option given that these will be fresh studs and the odds of them needing to be removed will be low.

 

[lcwizard]

@cruisermatt, I don't like the idea of heavily modified hubs since spares won't be available if needed. Ironic given I am doing the FROR brake setup which isn't exactly stock either.

I was looking into ARP studs and I did not like the idea of brittle hard steel in there over oem soft grade 8.8 hardware. Not to mention the cost is absurd. Hubs are cheap and plentiful here in Los Angeles.

@lcwizard, I guess red loctite may be an option given that these will be fresh studs and the odds of them needing to be removed will be low.

Generally, whenever I upgraded to a 3/8 stud, it's because the factory holes had become sloppy. The other times are when I have a
truck with very deep gearing. Our competition 40s ran 38 ~ 44" tires and 140:1 or deeper gears. We would shear the 8mm studs
on a regular basis on the floater rears. The stock axles would break as often but once we had 300m versions made the weakest spot
was the studs. The 3/8 upgrade quadrupled the life. We tried 7/16 but the material was thin at the outside of the hole. We developed
cracks in the hub than ran the length of the threaded hole after a season. 3/8 was the better compromise. That all becomes mute
once you swap to 35 spline Dana 60s . We didn't use fancy studs, just Dorman 3/8"