Installing Dynamat is a pain (1 Viewer)

Spook50

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I managed to get my left front door done tonight, and it took me several hours to properly line up the sections and press it all into place. I still need to get a roller and roll out the wrinkles and just press it down.

The stuff looks like it'll be a great (and friggen heavy) addition to my truck. I tapped on the outside of my door where it was installed with a screwdriver, and it just made a soft thump instead of the typical metal-on-metal tap/clang. Can't wait to hear my stereo when it's all installed. So far, me likey :D
 

Spook50

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brett76 said:
did you pay retail or did you manage to find a deal on it somewhere?
Got a pretty good price on it from eTronics. Way less than anywhere else I found carried it for. Bought two bulk packs of Dynamat Xtreme and four cans of Dynashield to spray in my wheel wells. I also got a Dynamat hoodliner that I'll install after my hood gets repainted. To finish the job, once I have my leaks fixed I'm putting in two packages worth of LyTherm carpet liner in hopes of blocking out the road noise completely.
 

Doc

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This may be a little late, but it's a lot easier to install when it's warm. Use a heat gun or press it on and put a space heater inside your truck, close the doors- let it heat up REAL good. go back and it'll stretch a bit and fill in the cracks easier.

shh... it's a secret.... don't tell!
 
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I did the front doors of my 80 when I put new Eclipse speakers in.....I just used some paper (same width as the mat) to make templates, and cut the edges and penetrations out, flip them over and they work for the other side.

Ditto, do when it's hot.

I took prices from ebay to my local shop, and they matched that price....lots of markup room for them to play with...
 
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Let's see some pics Spook. I want to pull all the interior out of mine and either lay down dynamat or possibly get the entire floor/doors sprayed with liner. Does anyone know how well spray on bedliner works for noise insulation???
 

Spook50

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DBS311 said:
Let's see some pics Spook. I want to pull all the interior out of mine and either lay down dynamat or possibly get the entire floor/doors sprayed with liner. Does anyone know how well spray on bedliner works for noise insulation???
To be honest I'm not sure, since I need to give my wheel wells a real good scrubbin before I spray 'em, and I haven't yet. As usual, I'll do a writeup on it when it's done. Before I go any further though I'm going to take sound level readings for engine noise at idle and at speed, and for road noise at highway speeds so I can get some hard numbers for you guys (and for me) to see how well the stuff works.

Kuuner, don't go anywhere near that price for the bulk pack. I paid $130 each for two bulk packs of the Xtreme at eTronics. Also, Dynamat now markets their Dynaxorb panels for sticking up behind speakers, but I asked around before spending the money and was told every time that if you've already got Dyanamat behind your speakers, you don't need to spend the money on the Dynaxorb. I'd avoid eBay for stuff like Dynamat too.
 
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Spook -
Howcome you're using Dynamat on the doors & Lytherm on the floor? Are they that different? Looks like Lytherm is a little cheaper.

Also, isn't the stuff Kuuner found on Ebay a Dynamat knockoff (& isn't Lytherm)?
 
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Spook, any pictures yet?? You've started me on a crusade to do the same to my own truck and I need some inspiration!
 
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You can also buy big rolls of stick on roofing tar from your local Home Depot/Roofing suppy store. Essentially the same stuff.... super cheap.

Pay for the DynaMat name... or use the generic stuff.

This is what I'm going to do....
 
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Try using the "quiet car" paint/spray on product www.quietcar.com I used it on the entire entire of my BJ60 and it made a huge difference. Highly recommended, especially on diesel trucks.
 

Spook50

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Tinker said:
Spook -
Howcome you're using Dynamat on the doors & Lytherm on the floor? Are they that different? Looks like Lytherm is a little cheaper.

Also, isn't the stuff Kuuner found on Ebay a Dynamat knockoff (& isn't Lytherm)?
The LyTherm I ordered (they make three different sound deadening/insulating products IIRC) is their carpet padding. It acts as a sound deadener as well though, so I went with that. I'm not sure how well Lytherm's other stuff works, but I'm sure it's pretty similar to Dynamat. I know there are a bunch of Dynamat knockoffs out there, but I've heard the difference Dynamat makes in other cars, so I went with what I knew for sure would work. Again though, the LyTherm was ordered because it's a carpet padding as well. Looks to be real good quality stuff too.

DBS311, I've got some pics but I haven't loaded them onto my laptop yet. I'll get that done once all the sound deadener is installed, or at least once I'm almost done. I'll be posting updates with pics and writeups once this is done, and same as with the DirectHits mileage results. I know a bunch of you have been curious about that as well.
 
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The roofing stuff from Home Depot IS NOT anywhere near the same as the Dynamat product, I checked them out and it's not even close to the same ahhesive or thickness. I used the Dynamat Extreme on my 60 and the difference is worth every penny. One trick that I used was that I did strips in my doors, etc. leaving about 2 inches between them and it saves you a lot of square footage with not much difference in results. I also tried several of the spray on dampeners and found that they pretty much suclked. :D
 
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Vehicle manufactures have been using a tar based sound insulator for years. Toyota uses this type of material in the Land Cruiser. Not sure if they still are with the newer TLC's but every cruiser I have owned and done anything with has had the tar based stuff in it. So most of your roofing materials are the same stuff.

Ive used both the Dynamat, Dynamat Extreme, both types of spray on, and Peal-N-Seal. The spray on is good for areas that rattle. It is best to apply them in a dead of summer when its hotter then hell out. But we dont have that option this time of year so on ot plan B. I pull my rig into the garage and allow it to warm up. While waiting I prepare the areas to be lined. I precut all the sheets and lay them out on the shop bench or cargo area. I dont own a heat gun so I have used these two types of methods for heating the product up.
I turn the oven on to a low temp that is going to heat the product up enough to make it very pliable and not burn the living hell out of my hands. Then I walk it out and adhere it to the spot its meant for. Press it out with a roller. Stuff goes on great this way. I have also applied it in winter outside. I turn the vehicle on and allow it to warm up then turn the defrost on highest heat setting. It warms it up good this way too but you end up freezing your rear off while doing it. I apply at least two layers and normally hit the firewall first before I use it on the doors or rear 1/4's.

Now my experience with either the Dynamat or Peal-N-Seal has been the same. Anyone can read some of my posts about using the PealnSeal. I cant tell any difference when it comes to sound deadening. Stero sounds the same. Yes the Dynamat Xtreme is about 1mm thicker but this stuff isnt thin and it adheres very well. The nice thing is it doesnt cost as much as Dynamat Xtreme. I think I paid around 1 dollar per cubic inch for the Peal and Seal. After applying it to my recent pig project the doors shut with a thud. Road noise is pretty much gone and at times we cant tell if the engine is running when stopped at a light. Both of these products are accomplishing the same thing. They are loading the metal. Neither one of them blocks sound. Now there are some truer sound blockers on the market. But Dynamat or Dynamat Xtreme are not in this category. This stuff works well http://www.acoustiblok.com/uses.html .

Anyway I have done a few vehicles with nothing but Dynamat Xtreme, or a mix od Dynamat Xtreme and PealandSeal, and a few with just the Peal and Seal. When comparing the two I have been extremely pleased with the results of the Peal and Seal. Less money and same preformance.
 

Spook50

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Sloan said:
The roofing stuff from Home Depot IS NOT anywhere near the same as the Dynamat product, I checked them out and it's not even close to the same ahhesive or thickness. I used the Dynamat Extreme on my 60 and the difference is worth every penny. One trick that I used was that I did strips in my doors, etc. leaving about 2 inches between them and it saves you a lot of square footage with not much difference in results. I also tried several of the spray on dampeners and found that they pretty much suclked. :D
Damn, I should've gone with your method for doing my doors. I went for as much coverage as I could get (slaughtering my wrists and arms in the process). Though even then I'm still thinking I'll have some leftovers from the bulk pack I got.

I take back the original subject of my first post too. Once you get the hang of it, this stuff's actually pretty easy to work with.
 

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