Information on how to bore out Rock Warriors (1 Viewer)

[GMSilk_Fj60]

Greetings all,

I hate wheel spacers. There I said it. They came on my truck when I got my FJ100 that came with 17” TRD Rock warriors. I took off the rear spacers ASAP. Now to do the front correctly.

From other postings I see the front wheels (I’ll probably do all 4) need the 95mm lip bored out to 110mm.

A quick mock up without spacer and sure enough the wheel doesn’t fit.

Before I bore it out I am curious does the spindle knuckle where it attaches to the upper control arm rub? I have SPC upper control arms and it looks like it’ll be close. Are there any other considerations before I permanently alter these rims?

If anyone has pics of bored tundra wheels on a 100 I’d love to take a look.

 

[GTV]

I wanted to do the same thing but mocking it up showed that the center bore would need to be bored about 1/4” down which would blow the center of the wheel out entirely.

My Rock Warrior Wheel Project

Since I’m waiting for the country to open up so I can pick up my new to me LC (more on that later) I’ve decided to get these wheels where I want them to be. I got super lucky and found this complete set locally on CL from an older gent with a RW Tundra for $600. Got all the hardware as well but...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

I wanted to do the same thing but mocking it up showed that the center bore would need to be bored about 1/4” down which would blow the center of the wheel out entirely.

My Rock Warrior Wheel Project

Since I’m waiting for the country to open up so I can pick up my new to me LC (more on that later) I’ve decided to get these wheels where I want them to be. I got super lucky and found this complete set locally on CL from an older gent with a RW Tundra for $600. Got all the hardware as well but...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the insight! I’m not opposed to not having a center cap. I was planning on taking it straight through and finding/making a cap.

I just don’t want to do structural damage or have rubbing on the UCA. I’m running 285/70r17 and they look close.

 

[vman07]

what's your beef with (reasonable) spacers? I love to hear the myths...

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

what's your beef with (reasonable) spacers? I love to hear the myths...

The "myths":
1a. They put the tire outside of the body line. Without running boards or front mud guards the wider stance throw stones up the side of the vehicle on general highway driving.

1b. I also like keeping my tires below the body because I like the tall skinny stance on an overlander vs. the Chevy truck with 8" of tire past the body on each side. Its a land cruiser, not a mall queen. I'm cool with that look on an LC... when in Iceland.

2. They are one more point to take off in field. Add that with mud/dirt etc that sits on the hub between tire removals, the chance to promote corrosion/stuck bolts isnt for me. (I primarily work on 60s and those aesthetic aluminum collars that corrode are reason enough for me to keep it simple).

3. I don't care for the shift in scrub angle and increased pivotal force. Its not the end of the world, but I do believe in the more rapid wear. Now, with a lift and bigger tires, is it really doing more damage? Probably not. But it is a force multiplier no matter how you look at it.

4. If you're going the spacer route its either bolt on or slip behind. Slip behind steals stud depth. Bolt on, see reasons above.

I'm going to dig into boring out the wheel a bit further. If it totally isnt going to work I'll try minimizing the wheel spacers depth as much as possible.

 

[GTV]

.

 

[GTV]

The "myths":
1a. They put the tire outside of the body line. Without running boards or front mud guards the wider stance throw stones up the side of the vehicle on general highway driving.

1b. I also like keeping my tires below the body because I like the tall skinny stance on an overlander vs. the Chevy truck with 8" of tire past the body on each side. Its a land cruiser, not a mall queen. I'm cool with that look on an LC... when in Iceland.

2. They are one more point to take off in field. Add that with mud/dirt etc that sits on the hub between tire removals, the chance to promote corrosion/stuck bolts isnt for me. (I primarily work on 60s and those aesthetic aluminum collars that corrode are reason enough for me to keep it simple).

3. I don't care for the shift in scrub angle and increased pivotal force. Its not the end of the world, but I do believe in the more rapid wear. Now, with a lift and bigger tires, is it really doing more damage? Probably not. But it is a force multiplier no matter how you look at it.

4. If you're going the spacer route its either bolt on or slip behind. Slip behind steals stud depth. Bolt on, see reasons above.

I'm going to dig into boring out the wheel a bit further. If it totally isnt going to work I'll try minimizing the wheel spacers depth as much as possible.

1. 10mm spacers (the minimum needed) on RW's with a 285/70 tire only push the outside of the tire outwards by a total of 25mm/1" from standard. If you measure you'll see that you've got plenty of room for that.

2. Quality spacers are anodized and drastically reduce the possibility of corrosion. You'll be removing them every so often to service the wheel bearings/brakes anyway so the only way they would get stuck is if they were somehow installed improperly or you decided to neglect maintenance.

3. If you're worried about scrub angle stick with stock wheels. RW's alone push the wheel out by 10mm.

I've used spacers in the past with zero problems. This time I tried to avoid them but the hassle just wasn't worth it.

You will not have clearance issues with the UCA.

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

Awesome. Thanks @GTV. The RWs came on this truck with brand new Wranglers on them. For a time I considered trading the RW's away for a set of stockers once the new rubber is worn out. I haven't found anyone that has stockers and new rubber that's willing a trade around the Mid Atlantic. That fact has led me to keep them and make them work...