Infamous click-no-start issue (1 Viewer)

[Lil]

Hi all,

First off, apologies if this is formatted completely wrong, this is my first post on here.

So, I have a 1999 105 series Landcruiser (1hz) that has recently stopped working on me. The click-but-no-start issue first started intermittently, sometimes she'd start, sometimes it took a few turns, but more recently she's failed all together and won't start no matter how many tries. There is quite a loud click / clunk you hear coming from the solenoid but no kind of response anywhere else.

So, first port of call was to check batteries, both gave a good reading (12.6V) and had good connections, this was ruled out. After a bunch of reading we replaced the starter relay however this changed nothing. Since then, with many more hours of testing, we replaced a dodgy starter motor but still to no avail, same click, no action. We did more testing and noticed that while the batteries were giving a reading of 12.6V, the starter was only receiving around 9V. We were unsure as to if that was enough to start her up but with that in mind, we used a spare battery and a bit of wire to connect straight to the starter to determine if the issue could have been due to low voltage, however once connected directly (yes this was done carefully and properly), the starter would spin and click as it should, but nothing else happened. So we've made the conclusion it's probably time for a new battery and to inspect the connection to the starter but there's gotta be another issue here if we can hook it straight up and still get no luck.

So, my only other thoughts is could it be the ignition switch that could cause this? We did test voltage at the barrel and didn't have any issues but I'm at a loss as to what else it could be. Is there something I haven't considered?

Any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[McNalty]

Hi all,

First off, apologies if this is formatted completely wrong, this is my first post on here.

So, I have a 1999 105 series Landcruiser (1hz) that has recently stopped working on me. The click-but-no-start issue first started intermittently, sometimes she'd start, sometimes it took a few turns, but more recently she's failed all together and won't start no matter how many tries. There is quite a loud click / clunk you hear coming from the solenoid but no kind of response anywhere else.

So, first port of call was to check batteries, both gave a good reading (12.6V) and had good connections, this was ruled out. After a bunch of reading we replaced the starter relay however this changed nothing. Since then, with many more hours of testing, we replaced a dodgy starter motor but still to no avail, same click, no action. We did more testing and noticed that while the batteries were giving a reading of 12.6V, the starter was only receiving around 9V. We were unsure as to if that was enough to start her up but with that in mind, we used a spare battery and a bit of wire to connect straight to the starter to determine if the issue could have been due to low voltage, however once connected directly (yes this was done carefully and properly), the starter would spin and click as it should, but nothing else happened. So we've made the conclusion it's probably time for a new battery and to inspect the connection to the starter but there's gotta be another issue here if we can hook it straight up and still get no luck.

So, my only other thoughts is could it be the ignition switch that could cause this? We did test voltage at the barrel and didn't have any issues but I'm at a loss as to what else it could be. Is there something I haven't considered?

Any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Do you have a method for checking for good ground, I think eliminating the battery as a suspect is a great first step. Find that ground which unfortunately might be in an uncomfortable location and verify. In the States here the local auto parts store can fully check a battery with a load and verify your battery as viable or not.

 

[Lil]

Do you have a method for checking for good ground, I think eliminating the battery as a suspect is a great first step. Find that ground which unfortunately might be in an uncomfortable location and verify. In the States here the local auto parts store can fully check a battery with a load and verify your battery as viable or not.

I should've mentioned that! Yes ground checks out fine. An update on today though: we found out the pinion wasn't actually throwing out and engaging with the flywheel. We removed the started and fixed this issue however when we tried to start the car we got a very slow laboured crank, nothing close to firing and starting.

This is usually a sign of weak battery so we tried a jump start but same response. We also connected directly to the starter bypassing battery wiring in case that was an issue and got the same result. At least now she's trying to crank but just not sure why she can't get all the way.

 

[McNalty]

I should've mentioned that! Yes ground checks out fine. An update on today though: we found out the pinion wasn't actually throwing out and engaging with the flywheel. We removed the started and fixed this issue however when we tried to start the car we got a very slow-laboured crank, nothing close to firing and starting.

This is usually a sign of weak battery so we tried a jump start but same response. We also connected directly to the starter bypassing battery wiring in case that was an issue and got the same result. At least now she's trying to crank but just not sure why she can't get all the way.

for the starter to be cranking, the control circuit would have to be working. So, if battery and cable checks are within specification and the vehicle still cranks slowly, then it’s a slow cranking problem and it’s time to replace the starter, they are rebuildable without too much brain power extended, mostly a couple of bearings and some brushes.

 

[Lil]

for the starter to be cranking, the control circuit would have to be working. So, if battery and cable checks are within specification and the vehicle still cranks slowly, then it’s a slow cranking problem and it’s time to replace the starter, they are rebuildable without too much brain power extended, mostly a couple of bearings and some brushes.

Hmm yeah okay, thanks heaps for your response! Seems unlikely that after replacing the starter already it could be that but in saying that the replacement wasn't brand new and with how my luck's going at the moment, I wouldn't be surprised! I'll have a look into both options and see if we have any luck!

 

[Live to Ski]

for the starter to be cranking, the control circuit would have to be working. So, if battery and cable checks are within specification and the vehicle still cranks slowly, then it’s a slow cranking problem and it’s time to replace the starter, they are rebuildable without too much brain power extended, mostly a couple of bearings and some brushes.

True (I think). The hard part is getting to the starter....buried in the V

 

[John McVicker]

You don’t need a new starter, you need more juice TO the starter. Buy a 4 pin relay, switch to the relay, relay to the battery & then over to the starter.
It is a band aid for 20+ year old wiring. A band aid that has lasted me 15+ years on my 60 & still going and 10 + years on my 62 before I sold it.

 

[Lil]

You don’t need a new starter, you need more juice TO the starter. Buy a 4 pin relay, switch to the relay, relay to the battery & then over to the starter.
It is a band aid for 20+ year old wiring. A band aid that has lasted me 15+ years on my 60 & still going and 10 + years on my 62 before I sold it.

View attachment 3336205

I did think it was a matter of not getting enough power to the starter, but if this was the true issue, shouldn't the car have started when we bypassed and went straight to the starter in a jump start from another vehicle?

Interesting idea though, might be something to look into.

 

[John McVicker]

Are you sure…are you certain…that when you used the spare battery and then hooked up to the starter, are you sure that battery had a full charge?

Doing it that way…there are only a very few things that would prevent the motor from turning over very fast.
A) bad starter
B) bad battery
C) poor connection that you thought was good
D) absolutely nothing else that I can think of

 

[Malleus]

It's the starter solenoid. Known problem and solution. On-the-road fix is to smack the solenoid case with a hammer; if this works, you have a bad solenoid. Replace ($) or rebuild (¢).

 

[Lil]

Are you sure…are you certain…that when you used the spare battery and then hooked up to the starter, are you sure that battery had a full charge?

Doing it that way…there are only a very few things that would prevent the motor from turning over very fast.
A) bad starter
B) bad battery
C) poor connection that you thought was good
D) absolutely nothing else that I can think of

We tried multiple batteries including one in a separate car while it was running. Honestly it feels like it has to be the starter, might grab a new one this time and see if it was the cause. The only other thing I've ready about is the crankshaft sensor being faulty but it seems to be okay.

 

[Lil]

It's the starter solenoid. Known problem and solution. On-the-road fix is to smack the solenoid case with a hammer; if this works, you have a bad solenoid. Replace ($) or rebuild (¢).

I thought the same, just didn't think it would be likely having 2 bad ones in a row, but stranger things have happened! Didn't have any luck giving it a whack, tried that a few times. Any idea if there's some kind of video or tutorial on rebuilding?

 

[Malleus]

It's in the FSM. Including the tests to ensure that is the problem.

 

[Live to Ski]

It's the starter solenoid. Known problem and solution. On-the-road fix is to smack the solenoid case with a hammer; if this works, you have a bad solenoid. Replace ($) or rebuild (¢).

isn't the starter solenoid next to the starter? if starter is buried in V, how do you get to it to smack it?

I take the above back. clearly i don't have enough knowledge to back the claim

 

[Malleus]

A 105 has a 1FZ-FE engine in it. Or am I wrong?

 

[Live to Ski]

A 105 has a 1FZ-FE engine in it. Or am I wrong?

dang, double dimerits: did not even notice that this was non-usa spec'd truck. Off to the dunce corner i go.

 

[Lil]

A 105 has a 1FZ-FE engine in it. Or am I wrong?

It's a 1hz

 

[Lil]

It's in the FSM. Including the tests to ensure that is the problem.

Sorry, not familiar with "fsm", still learning the lingo, could I get it in dumb person language? Haha

 

[DBULL]

Factory service manual

 

[Lil]

It's in the FSM. Including the tests to ensure that is the problem.

Would you happen to have a link to the FSM? I've had a look around but nothing I have found has mentioned the starter solenoid let alone the tests I can do or rebuilds for fixing...