improving flow for the 3FE’s top end (1 Viewer)

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BTW, still hoping to get comments on if my exhaust valves are indeed pooched.
 
POOCHED!! In my opinion. Also do your putty fill on the MAF first clean and burr then take it to powder blst with the intake. You will no be disappointed. :D
 
I noticed the screw in plug in the oil galley.

As for the exhaust valves, I would replace them. Seems like cheap insurance to me.
 
POOCHED!! In my opinion

As for the exhaust valves, I would replace them. Seems like cheap insurance to me.

Good enough, like I said, this is my first dance, so there'll be judgement calls and experience stuff I'll need audience participation for. :cheers: Is this typical for old valves, or these look particularly rough?

Now what to do for new ex. valves. Go cheby (I'll have to dig up an old thread where Jim C. suggested good chevy valves to swap), go new Toyota or try to find some decent used. I'll have to check the FSM to see if they come specced to one stem diameter, or several options....
 
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Chevy valves would be a little cheaper but it would be easier to install Yota instead of having to research. As for the wear on them that is typical for a high mileage head. Sure would be nice to find some roller rocker arms that woul fit! :D That would be sweet!
 
BTW Doc,

Dremel has a fine set of bits that are typically stocked at Home Depot. They work fairly well and aren't to expensive. I have a full tan a flex shaft for mine if ou want to borrow it?! :D Shipping might suck though. Surely some one out there has one that is willing to help with the cause...:wrench:
 
I've got a dremel and flex shaft, kinda thought it would be light-weight for the task.... go to hear it will be some use.
 
I think it'll be ideal for the lighter work, like tuning up the AFM and similar. Wouldn't expect to be able to rework the ports of an iron head with it, but you knew that!

Speaking of, when you get around to grinding on iron, wear a good respirator. Your lungs & nose will thank you. First set of heads I ever worked on I was 16 and didn't know any better. That was some funky stuff that came outa me.....
 
I think it'll be ideal for the lighter work, like tuning up the AFM and similar. Wouldn't expect to be able to rework the ports of an iron head with it, but you knew that!

Speaking of, when you get around to grinding on iron, wear a good respirator. Your lungs & nose will thank you. First set of heads I ever worked on I was 16 and didn't know any better. That was some funky stuff that came outa me.....

Hmm, I should check and see if the fume hood in the lab is big enough to work in.... it's not seeing much other use. A respirator would be a good investment regardless.

I just joined me a flow-bench forum, goodbye productivity.....
 
By the time I'm done I'll have an 88, 89, 90 FJ62, and who knows, the head and manifolds could be out of 80s. :hmm: I should try to find out.
 
What is stock valve lift with a 2F/3F cam? I've seen ~0.43" for one after-market cam, but never a figure for the stock cam. The witness marks on the valves I pulled seemed to suggest a greater lift, but this could be from some valve float? Or maybe the engine the head was pulled from even had a high-lift cam?
Specs for Sealed Power billet replacement, rocker ratio is 1.5:
Item#: SEPCS803
Intake Lift (Inches):.251"
Intake Lift (mm):6.375 mm
Exhaust Lift (Inches):.257"
Exhaust Lift (mm):6.523 mm
Intake Duration:189 Deg.
Exhaust Duration:193 Deg.
Lobe Separation:109 Deg.
Overlap:27 Deg.

On a somewhat related note, is it typical to cut the length of the push rods an amount equal to the shaving of the head to retain full travel of the springs?
No, the springs and rockers stay in the same relative position. The .050" off the head is easily made up in the adjuster screw.

Valve stem height is the critical setup. Installed height should be higher than rockershaft center by 1/2 of the gross lift.
 
Thanks Jim. Some good info for when it comes time to put the bits back together. :cheers:

So intake valve lift would be 0.377" (less valve lash) and exhaust would be 0.386" (less lash). Duration figures must be at 0.050"? The figures I've seen are around 250 degrees for total duration. Hmm, think I'll keep the stock cam for now, and cross that bridge down the road. I'll flow test out to 0.45' or 0.5" though.
 
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Okay, some more photos now that the head's back from being hot-tanked and Magnafluxed. Again, there are more photos and higher res. at the photobucket link in the first post.

General shots of the head casting. Nice and clean, what a difference.
IMG_4168small.jpg

IMG_4170small.jpg


Hot-tanking the aluminum intake didn't yield the same results. I guess the temp and chemicals must be less effective. Still full of carbonized crap inside, oh well, that'll get some attention down the road.
IMG_4195small.jpg


A couple shots of the #6 chamber
IMG_4186small.jpg

IMG_4173small.jpg


#6's valve throats (think that's the right term....:confused:)
exhaust
IMG_4174small.jpg


intake
IMG_4175small.jpg


A few shots to show seams, texture and imperfections in the casting
IMG_4180small.jpg

IMG_4203small.jpg

IMG_4204small.jpg


Now the real fun/work can begin. Trying to get some schoolwork done tonight, but I may take a break and measure the combustion chamber volumes for a reference to come back to later. Silicone moulds should get going in the next couple days.
:cheers:
 
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Just incase anyone is wondering, Canon PowerShot S3-IS, macro and supermacro settings. :grinpimp:
 
Did a quick and dirty assessment of the head chamber volumes.
#1 - 76.6 ml
#2 - 76.9 ml
#3 - (77 ml) - mussed that one up a bit
#4 - 77.0 ml
#5 - 77.5 ml
#6 - 77.1 ml
~1% spread, using fairly crude methods (sheet of acetate, squirt bottle and an electronic scale)
 

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