I'm stuck - Tundra IFS install question - Removing axle hub (1 Viewer)

[NLScooby]

I'm in the middle of my Tundra front IFS conversion and need to remove the hub from the axle. I went to a local autoparts store to borrow a puller - but the bolt pattern doesn't match up.

For those who have done the conversion - Have you found another way to remove the hub from the axle or did you get lucky with your hub puller actually fitting?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[MikeSmith]

An air hammer works well for the ones I have done.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I've put a few long travel kits on other Toyota's include a few Tundras. But I'll be honest, once the hub nut was off, the CV axle came out of the spindle wheel bearings quite easy.

You weren't talking about breaking the hub nut itself loose were you?

 

[Mogwai]

Hey @chap79 do you recall? I know we didn't use a puller to remove the hubs, don't think it took more than a rubber mallet to the end of the axle?

39mm 12pt to remove the hub nut and an impact wrench is helpful.

 

[Atwalz]

I used brass bar and a hammer to dislodge steering knuckle from axle hub. Don't use hammer on axle directly as it damage threads.

 

[TexAZ]

I used angle iron, lug nut, and c clamp to press the axle out.

 

[TonyP]

I used brass bar and a hammer to dislodge steering knuckle from axle hub. Don't use hammer on axle directly as it damage threads.

This. I unbolted the UCA and carefully hammered at the axle with a brass bar if it's stuck. It'll slide out eventually.

You don't want to damage the axle threads. That'll ruin you week.

 

[NLScooby]

Thank you gentlemen - I will attack again tomorrow with renewed vigor and optimism! Or a big hammer.....

 

[chap79]

Hey @chap79 do you recall? I know we didn't use a puller to remove the hubs, don't think it took more than a rubber mallet to the end of the axle?

39mm 12pt to remove the hub nut and an impact wrench is helpful.

We used a dead blow to tap (beat) the sides of the hub until it came loose IIRC. Brass hammer or drift would have been preferred for shock transference.

 

[Atwalz]

I used angle iron, lug nut, and c clamp to press the axle out. View attachment 1493225

I noticed you loosened the hub bearing bolts. They are not necessary to remove for tundra conversion. The entire steering knuckle comes out, once you disconnect both control arms, tie rod end and kdss end link. Hub bearing bolts are only removed when replacing the hub and bearing. Bearings are pressed into hub.

 

[TexAZ]

The picture was from when I did the brake conversion .
Just seemed helpful, as i used the same technique the first time i did the suspension.

 

[NLScooby]

I noticed you loosened the hub bearing bolts. They are not necessary to remove for tundra conversion. The entire steering knuckle comes out, once you disconnect both control arms, tie rod end and kdss end link. Hub bearing bolts are only removed when replacing the hub and bearing. Bearings are pressed into hub.

Hey @Atwalz and @Taco2Cruiser,
Man I wish I would have noticed that you didn't need to remove the hub from the steering knuckle....but I did as I was following along in the FSM on how to remove the front axles.
My question is - now that I did separate them - do I need to replace the oil seal and the o-ring before I reassemble? I would normally do the o-ring without question - but I'm having a bear of a time finding the part number if you can believe it....
The oil seal looks perfect - but its one of those "while I'm in there kinda things now..."

Any thoughts?

Thanks!!

BTW - as an update, I bought a 6" gear puller from Northern Tools and it worked like a charm - had the axles off in under 3 minutes total.

 

[NLScooby]

We used a dead blow to tap (beat) the sides of the hub until it came loose IIRC. Brass hammer or drift would have been preferred for shock transference.

Thanks for the response!

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Hey @Atwalz and @Taco2Cruiser,
Man I wish I would have noticed that you didn't need to remove the hub from the steering knuckle....but I did as I was following along in the FSM on how to remove the front axles.
My question is - now that I did separate them - do I need to replace the oil seal and the o-ring before I reassemble? I would normally do the o-ring without question - but I'm having a bear of a time finding the part number if you can believe it....
The oil seal looks perfect - but its one of those "while I'm in there kinda things now..."

Any thoughts?

Thanks!!

BTW - as an update, I bought a 6" gear puller from Northern Tools and it worked like a charm - had the axles off in under 3 minutes total.

I feel yea, the FSM will always play it super safe. It's like replacing the steering rack in the FSM requires the motor to be removed, even though you can get it out without all that mess.

For seals and o rings. Ehhh... I never want to recommend not replacing things like that. That said, I've put those thing back together more times than I'd like to admit without replacing them, and I haven't had any issues. If you can do the work yourself, which looks like you are super capable, then the worse that could happen from needing to get back in there is you dedicating more of your time.

If you had to pay someone, and where already in there. I would absolutely say to replace while it is opened up.

 

[NLScooby]

I feel yea, the FSM will always play it super safe. It's like replacing the steering rack in the FSM requires the motor to be removed, even though you can get it out without all that mess.

For seals and o rings. Ehhh... I never want to recommend not replacing things like that. That said, I've put those thing back together more times than I'd like to admit without replacing them, and I haven't had any issues. If you can do the work yourself, which looks like you are super capable, then the worse that could happen from needing to get back in there is you dedicating more of your time.

If you had to pay someone, and where already in there. I would absolutely say to replace while it is opened up.

Thanks - that's exactly what I was feeling - the o-ring is more of a dust seal than anything.....BUT my (self diagnosed) OCD had me at the dealer ordering new ones just a half hour ago. Part # is 90301-99182... I figure I'm not going to get to it for another day or so and I also had to go out to pick up more cotter pins....

Of course now I started thinking about the front bearings and the rotor, etc..... "while I'm in there"...... Ugh - someone stop me....

 

[Atwalz]

I would visually inspect the seal for leaks and damage. If it is fine and miles on the truck doesn't warrant a replacement then go for it. Worst case, you redo the work to replace the seal. In end, it depends on how much time and patience you have. With that said. I have replace the axles on my rig twice and still have factory seals and I am at 60K miles. Sometimes these seals can be PITA to install given limited space to drive the seal with proper tools.

 

[NLScooby]

I would visually inspect the seal for leaks and damage. If it is fine and miles on the truck doesn't warrant a replacement then go for it. Worst case, you redo the work to replace the seal. In end, it depends on how much time and patience you have. With that said. I have replace the axles on my rig twice and still have factory seals and I am at 60K miles. Sometimes these seals can be PITA to install given limited space to drive the seal with proper tools.

Thanks - the seals look good - but I do have 105K on her now - which got me wondering how long these things were designed to last?
There were no leaks or grease escaping prior to me disassembling the parts. My plan now is to inspect them in more detail tonight. I am definitely replacing the O-rings as they felt a little gritty (likely from brake dust and/or minor surface rust)

I wish I could take some time off right now to finish her up! Oh, and it'd be awesome if it could stop being 95 degrees with like 90% humidity! I am not joking when I say that I lost 7 lbs. during the first 8 hours I worked on this last weekend. (I weighed myself!)