Ignition Switch rod replacement before it breaks ... (1 Viewer)

[cwmoser]

Those of you who have done a preemptive replacement of the Ignition Switch rod, doing it before it breaks, how much trouble was it to do?
I've purchased the rod for my 2002 LX470 and am considering doing the replacement as a preventive measure but wondering if its just best to leave it be.

 

[sketerboi]

For me it was some trouble getting the rod out since it broke in my parents driveway, mine broke at 524K km. Seeing your LX has 69k miles i think it should be fine but the part aged of course, but i would recommend replacing it indeed since it can happen anywhere at a bad time/place. When the rod is not in 2 pieces its easy to get it out (kind of) you need to turn it anti clockwise some and wiggle it out (how i did it since i installed my new rod wrong the first time). Here's a video on how to get to the rod (just in case if you didn't know):

 

[excessive]

what years does this apply to ?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Big old thread in the FAQ on this.

and your own post in that thread

Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

I was able to get a long air gun down into the barrel and blew the broken tip out, I tried to catch it with the shopvac but it ended up in the footwell. Anyway, got the replacement shaft in and she's running per normal. I want a better long term fix, it seems these shafts break in like 4 or 5...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[nissanh]

It shouldn't break if you don't force the key to turn while the steering is locked. IF the steering is locked, just turn the wheel into the opposite direction a LITTE bit and then try to turn the ignition key without any excessive force.

 

[David310]

It shouldn't break if you don't force the key to turn while the steering is locked. IF the steering is locked, just turn the wheel into the opposite direction a LITTE bit and then try to turn the ignition key without any excessive force.

I agree with this. I’m always cautious when handing my LX over and usually leave it running if I need to. Most recently when taking it in for an inspection. I also have a spare ignition rod just in case lol.

 

[cwmoser]

Is this the stronger version of the Ignition Rod?

 

[creakycruiser]

Is this the stronger version of the Ignition Rod?

View attachment 3712759

It's pot metal, there is no strong version of the rod. This is a rumor. If a rod's gonna break, it's gonna break.

 

[Mike NXP]

Those of you who have done a preemptive replacement of the Ignition Switch rod, doing it before it breaks, how much trouble was it to do?
I've purchased the rod for my 2002 LX470 and am considering doing the replacement as a preventive measure but wondering if its just best to leave it be.

Damn you, now my paranoia is kicking back in as I've been considering doing this for PM as well but haven't committed yet


I like CreakyCruisers take on it, are we really even sure the new version is stronger or is this just a total case of user error and breaking stuff

I always park straight and try not to bump the wheel when at camp as to not have the wheel lock engage but I do get ignition rod paranoia all the time lol

 

[BullElk]

If this is a preventative maintenance effort, then the implication is that the ignition rod actually weakens over time. Weakens as in slightly bend, oxidize/corrode/biodegrade ? Or will a brand new one that has been in storage for who knows how long have the same chance of breaking as any of them?

 

[Mike NXP]

If this is a preventative maintenance effort, then the implication is that the ignition rod actually weakens over time. Weakens as in slightly bend, oxidize/corrode/biodegrade ? Or will a brand new one that has been in storage for who knows how long have the same chance of breaking as any of them?

Good point, has anyone ever compared the two parts for any differences in strength? I recall the main thread talking about it at one point but seems like speculation.

Alright I'm going back to not giving a F for a while, should be fine =]

 

[creakycruiser]

The stock one was pot metal. The replacement is pot metal. It’s all pot metal and it’s just absolute cheapness. I have found no evidence that it degrades over time, but rather can suffer a catastrophic fracture and then a few days later, finally snap into two during its final usage. The broken ignition rod is usually first noticed when you try to unsuccessfully turn off the engine.

What can you do?

A. Don’t use the steering lock, ever, unless you absolutely need to. And when releasing the steering lock, always remove pressure off the ignition rod before turning the key. Every single report I’ve seen of these breaking has one thing in common: it broke at the steering lock cam. This option is null if your other family members share your truck, others will likely not remember your steering lock lecture 1 year down the road.

B. Carry replacement parts and tools and train yourself in advance how to replace your ignition rod by taking the ignition rod out of your assembly, inspecting it for fractures and reinstalling it at least once. Trust me, you DO NOT want to be out in the field doing this for the first time. You have to transfer over a teeny tiny little spring that if you lose, hope you have a jeweler nearby. You have to unscrew barely visible JIS fasteners upside down on your back under the dash at juuust the right angle to remove the ignition switch, which needs to be fully removed to release the ignition rod from the chamber. If you do this job once or twice, you’ll be ready instead of your whole family watching you walk up a hill to get cell service on your phone desperate for a fix.

C. The best and most difficult option, as it eliminates A and B. Create a new ignition rod from scratch/possibly remove material off your existing ignition rod? A Dutch fellow on a 100 series Facebook group machined a new ignition rod out of thick aluminum that didn’t include the cam for the steering lock. That thing ain’t breaking and you know what they say: no steering lock, no worries!

I’ve done A and B, and I’d really like to do C but lack the machining resources and time. I hope a vendor reads this (lol not you Joey) and realizes they could make a nice profit by selling upgraded ignition rods with steering lock deleted.

Anyway, thanks for coming to my TED talk.

 

[roadstr6]

The rod was upgraded at some point and the newer rod has a thicker section at the location where they always break. I have replaced three of them (one broken one and two proactively) and I can tell you that the new ones are better. As tempting as it may be, DO NOT buy the just the rod from ebay. You won't be getting the updated part. You'll have to order the entire switch assembly from Toyota to get the upgraded rod. You'll be pulling the new rod out of the new housing and installing the new rod into your existing housing. Not sure when the upgraded rod started going into the trucks, but the newer trucks may already have the upgraded part. You should absolutely replace the rod as preventative maintenance, as it is very simple to remove before it is broken. Once it breaks, all bets are off. Unless you like to carry around all manner of needle nose pliers, hemostats, long, thin screwdrivers and a couple of really good headlamps you don't want to do this job on the trail or even in a parking lot. It sucks.

 

[Mike NXP]

The rod was upgraded at some point and the newer rod has a thicker section at the location where they always break. I have replaced three of them (one broken one and two proactively) and I can tell you that the new ones are better. As tempting as it may be, DO NOT buy the just the rod from ebay. You won't be getting the updated part. You'll have to order the entire switch assembly from Toyota to get the upgraded rod. You'll be pulling the new rod out of the new housing and installing the new rod into your existing housing. Not sure when the upgraded rod started going into the trucks, but the newer trucks may already have the upgraded part. You should absolutely replace the rod as preventative maintenance, as it is very simple to remove before it is broken. Once it breaks, all bets are off. Unless you like to carry around all manner of needle nose pliers, hemostats, long, thin screwdrivers and a couple of really good headlamps you don't want to do this job on the trail or even in a parking lot. It sucks.

Welp, way to bring my straight back into a world of paranoia. If you claim there is truly a better revised part available it's tempting to consider.

 

[LX470cpa]

Welp, way to bring my straight back into a world of paranoia. If you claim there is truly a better revised part available it's tempting to consider.

Here's a comparison of the OEM old v new. Part #45280-60510 which is the "bracket assembly". You could replace the entire bracket, but I believe it is easier to remove the ignition rod from the new assembly.

 

[BullElk]

On sale now for a sweet $236. Gracious

 

[MarkTR]

I made an aluminum chubby that I can use in an emergency since it just drops in. I made this for my 2005 LX.

It must be like what CreakyCruiser said a Dutch guy made. If you look through that old long thread you will see that I posted this in 2022.

Remember that the Tang on the end is 90 degrees rotated from the early rod used up to 2003

 

[Eyedaho]

$151.51 on Partsouq!

 

[creakycruiser]

I made an aluminum chubby that I can use in an emergency since it just drops in. I made this for my 2005 LX.

It must be like what CreakyCruiser said a Dutch guy made. If you look through that old long thread you will see that I posted this in 2022.

Remember that the Tang on the end is 90 degrees rotated from the early rod used up to 2003

View attachment 3713279

View attachment 3713280

Very similar to the Dutch guy’s except yours is even beefier, wow! I want one.

 

[LJE]

On sale now for a sweet $236. Gracious

I think Impex (assuming I'm looking at the correct P/N) has it for $96. I may grab one...

EDIT: Correct P/N for my 05 LX is actually $137 from Impex...