ignition problems

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well I've noticed my other post on ford engines had turned in to my engine problems so I figured maybe I would start a new post.

just to give you all a heads up of the problem. I got everything wet and frozen and at first it just ran bad. I tested it and no codes came up. ran it a couple of times and now I hve no spark.
So I thought maybe it was a bad ground so I replaced every ground with 4 Gauge monster wire and still nothing. so I replaced the coil, wires, rotor, igniter, and now the Dizzy and still have no spark. I even replaced my ECU.

I also gone over all fuses. anyone have any Ideas???? please help.
 
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ok might have figured out the problem. Is the B+ wire that goes to the igniter suposed to have 12V when you turn the Key if so then its my fuseable link
 

2mbb

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yeah, I think you're on the right track
ignition circuit.JPG
 
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Hope these help.


thats exacly what I did and I've replaced my Igniter to a new one. My problem is now what. I've found out that the black and green wire that goes to the igniter only has .02V going to it when I turn the key to the on position. what would cause this??
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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thats exacly what I did and I've replaced my Igniter to a new one. My problem is now what. I've found out that the black and green wire that goes to the igniter only has .02V going to it when I turn the key to the on position. what would cause this??

ECU gremlins? I wonder what would happen if you jumped 12v to it? Maybe tomorrow I'll check mine and see what I get there to make sure it is suppose to get 12v.
 
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yea I'm taking it to a shop in the morning I hope I can remidy this. Thanks
 
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Have you got an FSM, or are you flying blind?

I've got a FSM and have done everything that book has told me to and everything reads to spec. Now I have a question why in the hell did toyota make the fuseable link? Can I just bypass it?
or is it necessary.
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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The fusible link protects your wiring from overload. It's sort of a pre-fuse fuse, and it's saved me frying stuff when I did a boner job installing a new alternator. If one of your links went, it was likely for a good reason (shorted something with the water?)

Any feed-back from the shop?
 
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do you have to replace the whole wire or just the connectors to the fuseable link to fix it. I bet thats what I did because I had to replace the alternator when I got home from the wheelin trip.
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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we cleaned it up a bit. still havn't tried to start it yet but got rid of the fusable link and put a 50 inline fuse. and water proofed it a bit. I'll have pics when I get her back. I think what happend was I shorted out the Alternator and fried the fusable link.
how did you guys water proof your alternator/dizzy???
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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Does your dizzy still have the factory rubber boot on it? Between that, liberally applied dielectric grease and the dizzy ventilation system, it should stay pretty protected.
 
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well just recieved a call from the shop. They are having a hell of a time figuring out whats wrong. the replaced the fuseable links like I said, but that wasn't it. They said its not getting gas to the injectorsand still no spark. you guys have any ideas on what it could be know. Would the EFI Relay cause this or the throttle position sensor?? I'm up for sugestion.
 

REKCUT

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You have to start at the battery and work your way out. Do you have 12v at the battery, next do you have 12v past the link, 12v going into the ignitor, 12v going out of the ignitor into the coil, 12 volt going to the dist, Spark going to the plugs. IF you are not getting spark to the plugs then something in one of these lines has to be bad. Do the test and find out where in line the problem is.
 
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we have all that but no spark to the plugs. and now no gas to the injectors.
 
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I know its as simple as that but it has been more complicated. there is more than one thing wrong and we haven't been succesful finding all.
 

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