Ignition Cylinder FJ62 / 1988 - Jammed - Rotated past ACC and Start Position (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 16, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
11
Location
Medellin, Colombia
FJ62 - 1988

The Key has rotated past the "START" (where it would mechanically spring back to "ON" position) and now is blocked.

Currently I can't rotate back the key to the "ACC" position to push the small button to release the cylinder to try and repair it.

Any experience with this issue and or solutions?

Thanks in advance.
Blake

PS. Last photo - we took out the windows to put ceramic 50% tint all the way around.



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I wish I had more technical advice, but as a last resort you could use some vice grips and turn it back?
Thanks Kevin, i did put a flat head screwdriver in and try to give it a power twist backwards but to no avail. I am waiting for a Toyota mechanic here in Medellin to come by in a bit and give it a shot before i resort to the GTA method of hammering a screw driver in and vise grip it backwards. Basically stealing my own Land Cruiser. Haha.
 
You have the steering column cover off already, did you try removing the electrical part of the ignition switch from the column? Just maybe that’s what is jammed and not letting the key turn back.
 
You have the steering column cover off already, did you try removing the electrical part of the ignition switch from the column? Just maybe that’s what is jammed and not letting the key turn back.
Hi fjc-man,
Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look at that option and see.
When it happened i was turning the key to the start position, the starter kicked in, "Rrr Rrr Rrr" for a second or two. Then from the start position the key cylinder that holds the key continued to rotate clockwise and then just jammed in the position of the photo above in the thread. I can remove the key but with the key in it doesn't turn forward nor backwards.
 
UPDATE
So I took off the electrical switch part and was able to start the truck but the Cylinder is still jammed. The wear on the cylinder is too far gone. Time to drill it out and order a new ignition cylinder with new keys. Took a while to get it drilled out due to the dashboard and angle of the Ignition. (Photos below)

This was one of the few things i've not had experience with on my varios 60 Series... thanks everyone for the help. I'll post a resolved photo later when i get the new parts in and install them.


Hi fjc-man,
Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look at that option and see.
When it happened i was turning the key to the start position, the starter kicked in, "Rrr Rrr Rrr" for a second or two. Then from the start position the key cylinder that holds the key continued to rotate clockwise and then just jammed in the position of the photo above in the thread. I can remove the key but with the key in it doesn't turn forward nor backwards.

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Ah what a bummer!

Was this an original key cylinder with many thousands of twists to start it over the years?
 
@FJ621988OEM I'm having a similar issue. I replaced the cylinder because the key wouldn't turn past ACC and that hasn't corrected the issue. I fear the issue is somewhere in the steering column upper bracket which is NLA. If you get your new cylinder in let us know if that works!
 
When I bought my 60 recently it turned fine and started but the key was super worn down. I made the mistake of taking the worn key to the local hardware store and had a new key made. Used it to start it after having to wiggle it but it worked. Next time it would not turn past acc position no matter what I tried. I pulled the passenger door panel.off and took the lock cylinder to a local locksmith and he cut me a few new keys. He also told.me I could carefully and very lightly tap the key while in the ignition and try to turn it. When I took his fresh cut keys to try to start it I had the same problem. I then gently tapped the key in the ignition with a screwdriver and luckily it now works. Not sure how much life the cylinder has left in it but try tapping the key lightly...
 
When I bought my 60 recently it turned fine and started but the key was super worn down. I made the mistake of taking the worn key to the local hardware store and had a new key made. Used it to start it after having to wiggle it but it worked. Next time it would not turn past acc position no matter what I tried. I pulled the passenger door panel.off and took the lock cylinder to a local locksmith and he cut me a few new keys. He also told.me I could carefully and very lightly tap the key while in the ignition and try to turn it. When I took his fresh cut keys to try to start it I had the same problem. I then gently tapped the key in the ignition with a screwdriver and luckily it now works. Not sure how much life the cylinder has left in it but try tapping the key lightly...
I just tore it apart again but my dad was there and presto now it works. Not sure if maybe the little connector part inside wasn't lined up.
 
in the future :

- FJ62 ONLY here ........



- STRIKE MED 1 KIDS GLOVES drift punch ( ONCE )



drill out this pin with a 1/16" or next 2 sizes up , then step up to a 1/8"

MUST use COBAULT Milwaukie brand ,.....


SLOW-SPEED ....



drill4.jpeg
 
@ToyotaMatt taught me this regarding getting new keys:

Take the passenger front door card off (right side of truck). Look at the door lock cylinder - if you can’t see it, undo the linkage, pull out a thin u-shaped shim that keeps the lock cylinder attached to the sheet metal of the door, and pull the lock out from the outside. There’s a 5 digit code hand punched onto the cylinder in the format of one letter and four numbers (A####). Write it down and go to a dealership, they can cut perfect keys with that number.

Now, there’s always the issue of the cylinder itself being worn down - usually the drivers door and ignition - but these dealership-cut keys have done a lot better for me than copies of copies of a worn out 40 year old key. I took a few swipes of a brass brush to some of these new dealership keys and they worked even better, real smooth.

Maybe this prevents a key from sticking in a cylinder, I don’t know. Worth a shot before it gets stuck!
 
@ToyotaMatt taught me this regarding getting new keys:

Take the passenger front door card off (right side of truck). Look at the door lock cylinder - if you can’t see it, undo the linkage, pull out a thin u-shaped shim that keeps the lock cylinder attached to the sheet metal of the door, and pull the lock out from the outside. There’s a 5 digit code hand punched onto the cylinder in the format of one letter and four numbers (A####). Write it down and go to a dealership, they can cut perfect keys with that number.

Now, there’s always the issue of the cylinder itself being worn down - usually the drivers door and ignition - but these dealership-cut keys have done a lot better for me than copies of copies of a worn out 40 year old key. I took a few swipes of a brass brush to some of these new dealership keys and they worked even better, real smooth.

Maybe this prevents a key from sticking in a cylinder, I don’t know. Worth a shot before it gets stuck!
FJ62 - 1988

The Key has rotated past the "START" (where it would mechanically spring back to "ON" position) and now is blocked.

Currently I can't rotate back the key to the "ACC" position to push the small button to release the cylinder to try and repair it.

Any experience with this issue and or solutions?

Thanks in advance.
Blake

PS. Last photo - we took out the windows to put ceramic 50% tint all the way around.



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- yes , passenger side front door lock cylinder
- if you have a RHD , still the " passenger side front door lock .....fyi
- the word out on the street is most USA TOYOTA dealers are NOT stocking OEM KEY blanks anymore ,, and are simply relying on old aftermarket CURTIS or ILCO cheap yellow brass , that is ZINC PLATED ....

- my local dealer is NO different ,


- for the 60 series folks , 1973-1990 FJ55 and FJ40 also , FJ , BJ , HJ 60 ,, 61 , 62

- the ALL metal common TOYOTA blank somehow is reverted back and forth from SOLID NICKLE , and Plated HIGH GRADE brass alloy ,

- if your choosing your local dealer , make sure to pre-special order the
90999-00212 , it's a 100% SOLID NICKLE Key , minus the black plastic head cast on the top , although the thin top rim IS plastic only , no metal under it ....

- the ALL 100% NICKLE Alloy is friendlier to your old tired 60 series locks ,

- make sure to flush out all EXTERIOR LOCKS using ONLY WD-40 brand WD40 , NO other lube products , this includes
NO grandmas powder graphite , this will TEAR up your TOYOTA locks inside ....

- also , remember it was only less then 60 days ago TOYOTA disc. the last 60 series lock , minus the FJ62 IGN. Lock Cylinder 69052-90A06 Drivers door lock is NKLA / Disc. now too .....
- all factory original 1973-1990 land cruiser PLANT A-11 keys were coder stamped as well that ended in 1991 80 series

- as of a few short days ago , i was going to save this for the official lock and key tech thread , 100% of ALL TOYOTA vehicle locks that roll out the Skunk-Works , Lock and key Shop are and will be hand code stamped by me .,.....
- this includes NOS full sets , if a codes is on it , and i re-code it , i polish it off dremmle and hand stamp a different location ,
- this is NO easy task and i now know why all toyota factory key code stamps look phunny ,

- TOYOTA at one time blackened all the lock faces of the IGN. ?

- the little chrome metal tag , will come on a later new OEM lock cylinder FJ62 ign. lock for example


no longer , it seams , i uses a industrial lock-smith ink for just that on the 40 , 55 and 62 column mounted cylinders i can still source ,
the writing is on the wall sadly , it seams , but over HELL or knee-deep SNOW-VERSION , i will try to keep the double edge cut saw tooth sabers alive and well

- final note : the 2023 TOYOTA Dealership charter agreement , i have recently " acquired a copy of , is VOID of north American dealers keeping the ability of making a factory key code key double edge cut style , so hence paying for the upkeep of the original 1996 issued machines by no de-funct CURTIS LLC corp,.
is no longer required , nor is investing in a new NLA / Disc. DENSO $$$$ key cutting machine , after all TOYOTAs no longer use metal keys right ............globally?






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oem late plain un-blackened 60 series


my attempt to keep the " Jack's-ALIVE " amber-pureness flame burning hot , out of my little 1-stop-shop ....:D


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in the future :

- FJ62 ONLY here ........



- STRIKE MED 1 KIDS GLOVES drift punch ( ONCE )



drill out this pin with a 1/16" or next 2 sizes up , then step up to a 1/8"

MUST use COBAULT Milwaukie brand ,.....


SLOW-SPEED ....



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Hi Matt,

I considered doing that but didn't want to take the whole steering wheel assembly off and nor did i want to damage the original housing of the ignition with a slip of the drill. I took my chances with drilling the ignition and the fact that i picked up this new one at the Toyota dealership in Florida i'm happy to have a new key... i like the solid feel of a new key with those 80's teeth... this one will give us another 30 years of happiness.

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oem late plain un-blackened 60 series


my attempt to keep the " Jack's-ALIVE " amber-pureness flame burning hot , out of my little 1-stop-shop ....:D


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I am going to bring it back to all original chrome trim... i prefer it also. How's your key working? I've also picked up the rest or the chain from the key to the starter, alternator, ground and respective cables to make it start like a 2024 LC300. Brrrrrup!
 

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