Ignition coil part # (1 Viewer)

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Not true, a memeber just did a tune up on his truck and assumed the plugs were properly gapped, he bought them from the dealer, they were not. Truck ran like s***. Pulled plugs, checked gap, to small. Re-gapped, runs perfect.

Where you buy your plugs makes no difference on whether or not they are properly gapped.

Try again.
 
Bottom line check gap on spark plugs, adjust new plugs if necessary, never adjust used plugs. I routinely check gap and get a very tight 1.1 really closer to 1.08 every time, Toyota Denso or Denso packaging.

Back to coils I'm still confuse on the difference through the years. I would think it was design improvements for performance, manufacturing and or versatility (use on wider variety of engines). But then why don't older & newer 2UZ-fe use the same newer part numbers.

What is the difference with these two coils?
 
Yes Spike.
That was me I think. :)

I specifically asked the Toyota dealer, both via phone when I ordered them, and when I picked them up, if I needed to adjust the gap, and he said no, there was no need to, as they were all pre gapped correctly for my model (UZJ100).
He also said that they had cardboard covers around them to stop the gap from being changed during transport.

And yes, after very poor performance, I checked and they were all gapped at exactly 0.75mm instead of 1.1mm.
 
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Try again.

Yes Spike.
That was me I think. :)

I specifically asked the Toyota dealer, both via phone when I ordered them, and when I picked them up, if I needed to adjust the gap, and he said no, there was no need to, as they were all pre gapped correctly for my model (UZJ100).
He also said that they had cardboard covers around them to stop the gap from being changed during transport.

And yes, after very poor performance, I checked and they were all gapped at exactly 0.75mm instead of 1.1mm.

Thank you joshAUST.

I was taught to ALWAYS double check the spark plug gap, it only takes a second. The dealer gets their spark plugs from the same distributor as the auto parts stores, the only difference is the dealer charges you more.
 
Try again.


I used to sell automotive fluids and fluid recycling, and here is the thing the dealer does not want you to know...they get all of their parts and fluids from distributors, they sign a contract to sell Valvoline motor oil and Peak coolant (for example)just like the quick lubes and independent auto repair shops do.
They contract with fluid recyclers to buy their used fluids.
They only use OEM branded fluids for warranty work or if the customer requests it.
The dealer is no different than a indie shop other than they have access to all of the factory manuals and a hotline to call for special help.
The factory trained techs only do warranty work, they do not do oil changes or brakes. They do not to timing belts or tune ups. They cost more than the other techs so they do not do work that is "below" them.
This is true for all new car dealerships.
They are a franchise, they pay a franchise fee to the manufacture every year for the privledge of having that sign out front. Which means they need to turn a profit, the profit's are in parts and service so they charge more. Which makes sense because they need to make money to stay in buisness.
But that does not mean their parts are different than the ones you buy at AutoZone, a Denso spark plug from AutoZone is the same as the one from the dealer, only the dealer doubles the price.
 
Thanks Spike.
Yes, I've found the pricing from the local dealership to be extremely expensive.
I got a quote for a front guard.. and was quoted $1100AUD... unpainted...
I ended up getting a pristine second hand one for about $200.

I also called their service department about the ABS warning light that was on, and they said that it was definitely the main ABS unit, and it would cost $2200 not including labour.
I hoped off the phone, spent $50 on a cheap scan code reader, that said the fault was the rear left wheel sensor... a quick look, found a dodgy repair job on the wire, so I resoldered it, insulated, and reset the code, and the problem was solved.
What a rort!

The same with the steering rack... well over a $1000AUD from memory, part only... so I went with a new aftermarket one for $650 delivered.
I did keep the old one though, to perhaps rebuild, as I've heard some of the aftermarket ones fail fairly soon.

I'd hate to know nothing and take a vehicle into a dealership.
You might as well just give them your bank details and passwords...

However, their pricing on the Denso IK20s were around $8 each, not much more than other sellers, and were in stock, and, as I was in a hurry, I went with them.
Thanks again Spike.
 
A dealer won't half a$$ a job, they'll do it right but that does not mean they'll do it best.
My truck was dealer serviced until I bought it, at 90,000 miles they had to replace the transfer case because the drain plug fell out, they installed a used one.

I learned a lot going behind the scenes at the repair shops, talking to the managers etc.
 
I used to sell automotive fluids and fluid recycling, and here is the thing the dealer does not want you to know...they get all of their parts and fluids from distributors, they sign a contract to sell Valvoline motor oil and Peak coolant (for example)just like the quick lubes and independent auto repair shops do.
They contract with fluid recyclers to buy their used fluids.
They only use OEM branded fluids for warranty work or if the customer requests it.
The dealer is no different than a indie shop other than they have access to all of the factory manuals and a hotline to call for special help.
The factory trained techs only do warranty work, they do not do oil changes or brakes. They do not to timing belts or tune ups. They cost more than the other techs so they do not do work that is "below" them.
This is true for all new car dealerships.
They are a franchise, they pay a franchise fee to the manufacture every year for the privledge of having that sign out front. Which means they need to turn a profit, the profit's are in parts and service so they charge more. Which makes sense because they need to make money to stay in buisness.
But that does not mean their parts are different than the ones you buy at AutoZone, a Denso spark plug from AutoZone is the same as the one from the dealer, only the dealer doubles the price.

Thanks for the clarification. :rolleyes:

You do know that I worked for Toyota right?
 
What should the plug gap be? I never gapped mine, I was told they came pre-gapped. I did use anti-seize and torque to spec (and re-torqued some time later to be sure), so I try to do things right.
 
Gap 1.1mm new, do not change if over .08mm out just replace (@abuck99 just pointed that out to me). Never change gap of used plugs, just replace if near limit of 1.3mm. The wider the gap the more current pulled from coil, not good.

I found one last night at ~1.13mm (new Denso) and one alignment off just a tad. Both in same box of four non Toyota.

Torque to 13ft-lbf no need to re-torque, and not advisable (not a big deal if done).
 
Sorry to hijack this thread. But just ordered some coils to compare to see what the differences between them are.

Ordered a Denso 673-1303 For $57.78 (includes Shipping and Tax) - Amazon
Ordered a Toyota 90080-19027 For $83.57 + Tax & Shipping (What my VIN shows as the correct part)
Ordered a Toyota 90919-02259 For $67.89 + Tax & Shipping
Will compare to my Factory installed 90919-02230 with 195K with a Denso reboot (671-8184) 45k ago

Will report back with pictures etc once they arrive.
Any ideas as to how i could better compare the coils? Multimeter etc?
 
That is the real question "what is different in performance".

The only test I know of is with equipment I no longer have accesses to.
When to replace Ignition coils.

I've emailed Denso question and never got a direct response. But then later found info updated in there web page, like on the TT being good for better than 100K miles.
 
FYI I ordered some Denso IK20 on Amazon for a good price. They got to my door and they were all gapped incorrectly. So I started looking closer and gapping them but got to comparing them to an old SK20 I had around. They were fake Spark plugs! Went to the auto store to compared my IK20 to their IK20 and sure enough they weren't real. BTW all Denso IK20 or SK20 plugs come pre gapped for our application. I think them not being gapped correctly is a sign of a knock off. I'll tell you the packaging looks dead on and if I didn't have an iridium plug to compare it to I would have never noticed the metal tip wasn't iridium (slight blueish hue). All the IK20 from the auto store are gapped correctly and Amazon seller offered a refund without questioning and didn't even ask for them to be shipped back.
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A fake spark plug? How is that possible? Or do you mean they were not really iridium?
 
FYI I ordered some Denso IK20 on Amazon for a good price. They got to my door and they were all gapped incorrectly. So I started looking closer and gapping them but got to comparing them to an old SK20 I had around. They were fake Spark plugs! Went to the auto store to compared my IK20 to their IK20 and sure enough they weren't real. BTW all Denso IK20 or SK20 plugs come pre gapped for our application. I think them not being gapped correctly is a sign of a knock off. I'll tell you the packaging looks dead on and if I didn't have an iridium plug to compare it to I would have never noticed the metal tip wasn't iridium (slight blueish hue). All the IK20 from the auto store are gapped correctly and Amazon seller offered a refund without questioning and didn't even ask for them to be shipped back.View attachment 1568049 View attachment 1568051 View attachment 1568050 View attachment 1568052

Who was the seller? Did you rep[ort them to Amazon? They will pull their store and shut them down for selling knock offs. What is the sellers ratings?
 
I'm working on telling the correct people. It was Fly Motors fufilled by Amazon. So Fly Motors gave me the excuse that it could be any of the other suppliers since it was fufilled by Amazon that all their parts sit on a shelf in Amazon warehouse along with other suppliers. FLY Motors did have high enough ratings 4 stars if I remember correctly.
 
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FWIW I bought an 8pack of Denso plugs off eBay from what appeared to be a reputable seller. They were all pregapped (0.043in/1.1mm) and were installed by myself before a Colorado trip I took back in August. My engine ran perfectly and is continuing to do so.

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I can see that, you send Amazon your product, they stick it on a shelf and every "Denso xxx" goes in the same spot and then gets pulled in whatever order they were placed there.
 
This is not something new, even fake Toyota OEM parts are floating around just so you know. Try low price "Genuine" or Denso ignition coil on Ebay.......
 

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