Ignition Advice--1980 FJ40 with CA smog (1 Viewer)

[SwissEd]

Greetings from the UK,
My beloved FJ40 is having some starting issues and ignition concern. No spark and havn't figured out if coil (looks OEM and old) toast or something else. However, I have heard how the Petronix electronic igntion swap is simple and reliable and can make drivability a lot easier. What is the current thinking on igntion upgrade (or not)? My FJ40 is largely original except for shocks. But I gather you can 'hide' the Petronix in original distributor and always reverse to point, rotor, cap etc. if one wants later.

Since I will likely need to order any electronic stuff from US, welcome some input. I read the horror thread about swapping a distributor(Maxx) that was too short and blew engine! Is the DUI swap overkill or one that once done and dusted goes and goes?

All the CA smog stuff is mindboggling and wanted to see if this effects the decision making process as well. Might be as simple as replacing coil, clean points, adjust and replace rotor, cap and plugs and cables (they are a bit old as well).

Thanks as always,

 

[fjc-man]

How about a picture of your distributor, if it’s original it doesn’t have ignition points. So the engine turns over with the starter, just no spark?

 

[4Cruisers]

If it's the original distributor, the signal generator could be bad. A simple check is to read the resistance of the signal generator, with the digital multimeter probes on the male terminals of the distributor's connector. Reading should be between 100 and 200 ohms. I've tested three or four used signal generators recently and all were in the 155 to 165 ohm range.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Greetings from the UK,
My beloved FJ40 is having some starting issues and ignition concern. No spark and havn't figured out if coil (looks OEM and old) toast or something else. However, I have heard how the Petronix electronic igntion swap is simple and reliable and can make drivability a lot easier. What is the current thinking on igntion upgrade (or not)? My FJ40 is largely original except for shocks. But I gather you can 'hide' the Petronix in original distributor and always reverse to point, rotor, cap etc. if one wants later.

Since I will likely need to order any electronic stuff from US, welcome some input. I read the horror thread about swapping a distributor(Maxx) that was too short and blew engine! Is the DUI swap overkill or one that once done and dusted goes and goes?

All the CA smog stuff is mindboggling and wanted to see if this effects the decision making process as well. Might be as simple as replacing coil, clean points, adjust and replace rotor, cap and plugs and cables (they are a bit old as well).

Thanks as always,

pictures will help @4Cruisers assist you m he is the resident NipponDenso Authorty on ignition systems

stick with him and his advise , you cant go wrong ...............

 

[SwissEd]

attached images-- hopefully helps.

Thanks

 

[4Cruisers]

Looks to be a '79/'80 electronic distributor, with provisions for high altitude compensation. Check the resistance of the signal generator to see if that's part of the problem. Another fairly easy thing to check is the air gap between the pickup wheel and signal generator inside the distributor. With the cap and rotor off, remove the black plastic cover over the signal generator (use a small flat tip screwdriver and gently pry it up at the innermost small machine screw). Loosen the two screws holding the signal generator to set the gap. I set the gap midway in the spec, or 0.012", but it's a pretty wide range, so it just needs to be close. It wouldn't hurt to clean the surfaces as well.

 

[SwissEd]

thanks for the input-- will investigate!

 

[kerplunk]

CA smog system on an FJ40 greeting us from the UK?

Installing ANY distributor, you need to make sure the bottom (where it is a flat blade) properly slides into the oil pump. This is not due to DUI's being short, I have read people have done this with the stock Toyota distributor. It is an installation issue, if you remove the distributor, make sure it's properly seated and engaged on the oil pump.

The main selling point I see for pertronix or dui is electronic ignition, i.e. no point. From comments made between you and @4Cruisers, it sounds like you already have a Toyota electronic distributor, which is probably going to work just as well or better if functioning properly, and doesn't have points to clean...

If you have to pass smog inspection, I'd assume DUI isn't an option. (and, they aren't cheap).

Test the distributor (personally, I don't know how...), parts store can usually test the coil for you (I remember doing this once decades ago, and know it's not hard, just don't remember how), new cap, rotor, wires and plugs almost always help (I have had brand new out of box bad parts, but it's rare...). And make sure there's 12v to the ignition from the ignition switch.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@SwissEd
I went through this last year. It ended up being a bad ignitor box.
Stock replacements are out there but don't come around often on this for sale forum.
I'm currently running a Carolla ignitor from the same era with an adapter from @ToyotaMatt
Here's a pic of my previous adapter and the nice one that @ToyotaMatt made for me

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Looks to be a '79/'80 electronic distributor, with provisions for high altitude compensation. Check the resistance of the signal generator to see if that's part of the problem. Another fairly easy thing to check is the air gap between the pickup wheel and signal generator inside the distributor. With the cap and rotor off, remove the black plastic cover over the signal generator (use a small flat tip screwdriver and gently pry it up at the innermost small machine screw). Loosen the two screws holding the signal generator to set the gap. I set the gap midway in the spec, or 0.012", but it's a pretty wide range, so it just needs to be close. It wouldn't hurt to clean the surfaces as well.

Greetings from the UK,
My beloved FJ40 is having some starting issues and ignition concern. No spark and havn't figured out if coil (looks OEM and old) toast or something else. However, I have heard how the Petronix electronic igntion swap is simple and reliable and can make drivability a lot easier. What is the current thinking on igntion upgrade (or not)? My FJ40 is largely original except for shocks. But I gather you can 'hide' the Petronix in original distributor and always reverse to point, rotor, cap etc. if one wants later.

Since I will likely need to order any electronic stuff from US, welcome some input. I read the horror thread about swapping a distributor(Maxx) that was too short and blew engine! Is the DUI swap overkill or one that once done and dusted goes and goes?

All the CA smog stuff is mindboggling and wanted to see if this effects the decision making process as well. Might be as simple as replacing coil, clean points, adjust and replace rotor, cap and plugs and cables (they are a bit old as well).

Thanks as always,

here are the Toyota facts on your igniter assy > @4Cruisers was spot on pro dating it

Part 89620-60031 (IGNITER ASSY) was found on the following models:

Market	Date range	Model	Frames/Options	Found in diagram
N. America	03/1969-06/1980		BJ40,FJ4*,55	84-01: SWITCH & RELAY & COMPUTER
	Model Dates:	Matching Models:	Model Options:	Links to diagrams:
	02/1976-06/1980	FJ40L-KJA	USA, TP, 2F, 4F, RB
	02/1976-06/1980	FJ40LV-KCJA	USA, VAN, 2F, 4F, VKC, RB

 

[SwissEd]

Thanks, did not know about this part!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@SwissEd
Search this part number on e-bay,
89620-60031
One item will come up, it's a
19070-61060
BUT
The eBay seller says it will work for a 1/79 through 7/80 build dates.
The plugs look right for your application.

 

[4Cruisers]

@SwissEd
I went through this last year. It ended up being a bad ignitor box.
Stock replacements are out there but don't come around often on this for sale forum.
I'm currently running a Celica ignitor from the same era with an adapter from @ToyotaMatt
Here's a pic of my previous adapter and the nice one that @ToyotaMatt made for me

View attachment 2576879

Which Celica ignitor are you running? Part numbers and a photo would help. I'll be testing an '83 carbureted Celica igniter in my '76 FJ40 (with FJ60 distributor) today, hopefully it'll work.

Thanks.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

No idea as to part numbers as they were painted over when I got it. Oddly enough, I don't have a pic on my phone of it installed. Here's what I have.
I had @ToyotaMatt make up the harness on the right to replace my homemade adapter harness on the left. The Carolla ignitor looks just like a Landcruiser one except it has a different connector to the distributor. I had erroneously stated Celica in a previous post but have since edited it

 

[ToyotaMatt]

this is @4Cruisers 's Professional Level Territory for sure ...............

 

[4Cruisers]

No idea as to part numbers as they were painted over when I got it. Oddly enough, I don't have a pic on my phone of it installed. Here's what I have.
I had @ToyotaMatt make up the harness on the right to replace my homemade adapter harness on the left. The Carolla ignitor looks just like a Landcruiser one except it has a different connector to the distributor. I had erroneously stated Celica in a previous post but have since edited itView attachment 2654528View attachment 2654530View attachment 2654531View attachment 2654532

Thanks for the photos. I changed the gender of the connector on the '83 Celica igniter last night using parts @ToyotaMatt sent me a while back. This morning I'm swapping out the igniter mounting bracket with the bracket from the FJ60 coil/igniter that's currently in my '76 FJ40. I should have it ready to fire up by the end of the day. I'm hopeful the Celica igniter will work.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I have just had a SPECIAL Run made of the NLA / DISC. 90980-10091 by OEM toyota parts maker YAZAKI , comes with the REAR Seals Plugs too and 3 Terminals one extra for practice ............

2 pin MALE sealed first gens are back , i have qty x 1000pcs , a life time supply for the ENTIRE vintage toyota MUD community ...

 

[ToyotaMatt]