IFS 3"lift options??? Don't want to drop my diff... (1 Viewer)

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Just like the title says...Once rear leaf spring is broken, and the front is out of wack! I need a lift..
I've read and read. But I just cant get the info I'm looking for... Unless I'm being a total newb.

OME has 2" lifts for around $700 +.
Skyjackers are 4" lifts for significantly more.

I don't want to drop my differential. . But want reliability. I don't want to add a leaf cuzz they are old and more might be breaking soon. I'm looking for a heavy set up.
I would like 3" even 4 but I cant without dropping the front dif.

We dont mind rough rides cuzz we are not used to cars of any kind. We have been riding just fine on flat springs and worn out bushings.

Downey is out of business so that is out the window.

Who has the better prices?
Who is the better brand?
What would make it a complete kit. I'm thing I have to do bushings and all because I hate tearing into something twice...

MAIN GOAL IS.... Overlanding rig. I don't rock crawl but have heard of stock IFS making it on the trails with 33's....

I might do a 2" body lift max but that would be a lot latter, I'm digging the idea of lifting up my gas tank 2"....

Thanks a million guys...

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I would put a set of Chevy 63" springs in the rear and put a solid axle in the front and find a decent set of rear toy springs for the front. Plenty of info on this swap on here, pirate and yotatech.

You will have to find a solid axle from a 79-85 toy which can cost $200-$300. The chevy and toy springs will run you around $100-$125 at the bone yard. Hysteer is $300. Front hanger, shock hoops, shocks, shackles, bushings and hardware another $400. Plus another $200-$300 for misc. stuff I'm sure I forgot. All together you're looking at $1200-$1500, BUT you are getting a FAR superior kit that will get you through pretty difficult terrain with ease.

You can also get the IFS eliminator kit from trail-gear, all-pro etc. They have just about everything you need to do the conversion (including front axle rebuild kits), and usually run about the same $$$. I prefer the previous setup because spring replacement is REALLY inexpensive and readily available. You also get that "custom lift" feeling even though it's been done a million times before, and doesn't differ much on install than the trail-gear/allpro etc. kits do.

Though they are still available the IFS kits are a becoming a thing of the past. It's alot of work and $$$, and not a lot of improvement on the trails. I know you say that you don't want to crawl with the rig, but that will change once you see what you can do with one of these kits.

 

[meigsrock]

Here is some good info in a post I started a little while back.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/462634-body-lift-not-body-lift-question.html

You are pretty much limited to a big $ IFS kit, SAS, or ball joint spacers and some kind of body lift.

I got by 1.5" Ball joint spacers and shackels to put on next week. Then I will throw in some more leaves in the rear and u-bolt flip kit when I get another set of rear springs from the junk yard. Body kit will be after that once I am able to gauge how much more lift I want. I think I will go 2" body to get me 3-3.5" total lift for 33" tires and maybe 35" tires.

Good luck.

 

[ridgerunner]

I am not yet sold on the solid axle yet. I understand the need and whatnot coming from a FJ55/40 background, but I am having a lot of fun with my IFS. It rides great, handles great, very stable, and it's strong enough for most things.

Go the OME route. I have OME torsion bars in front and they're awesome- just a bit stiffer and soak up the bumps really well. A bit of cranking keeps things reliable. I would also go OME rear springs in the HD- they're more tunable for weight adding or removing springs. Chevys would flex really well, but I would think they'd be too soft unless you're going with the heavier spring setups off the 3/4 trucks. If you need more height a 1" body lift would work. Also, if you do decide to go down the SFA route, the torsion bars aren't that expensive.

Just returned this morning from a trip of about 2500 miles to hang out in Escalante, then down to Page, then back to Moab then home. A lot of pavement, dirt, then some rock in a full heavy truck. I only did fins and things in Moab, but even then a rear locker and some lower gears would have been nice. No need for a SFA.

Cottonwood canyon

Fins and things. Always fun.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I am not yet sold on the solid axle yet. I understand the need and whatnot coming from a FJ55/40 background, but I am having a lot of fun with my IFS.

A stock 55/40 isn't much more capabe than an IFS toy. I would actually prefer a stock EFI truck over a stock carb'd SFA.

I know what you're saying though. Going by what the poster is looking for the OME may be the route to go. Once you sink the $$ into SAS'ing a rig you obviously will want to gear/lock/dual case it as well. If not you're left with a mall cralwer.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Thanks everyone for all of the info. I feel much better going with my stock IFS...

Meigsrock,
I've been following your thread. ALL great info.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Leave it stock.... and get a winch... IE; get out of jail free card...

 

[ridgerunner]

A stock 55/40 isn't much more capabe than an IFS toy. I would actually prefer a stock EFI truck over a stock carb'd SFA.

I know what you're saying though. Going by what the poster is looking for the OME may be the route to go. Once you sink the $$ into SAS'ing a rig you obviously will want to gear/lock/dual case it as well. If not you're left with a mall cralwer.

I said nothing about a stock 55/40.

It also depends on what sort of terrain you're wheeling as well that determines the progression of the build/ design. For some areas, height and flex might be more important than something else like stability or even weight carrying capacity.

Solid front axles work awesomely. Combined with lower gears and lockers, the trucks are extremely capable. However, I'm also a big proponent of wheeling the rig you have, unless you know what purpose you're building the vehicle for. SFA sometimes seems like a bandwagon that many jump on and criticize the factory IFS for, even when the limits of the capability haven't been reached. Besides, as you said, one thing just cascades into another.

 

[bkg]

Why don't you want to drop the diff? Not really a big deal. I really liked my 4" trailmaster and 4" superlift kits (pickup/4runner).

You won't get 3" w/o a dropped diff... Just not practical unless you're going long arm.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I said nothing about a stock 55/40.

You never said you were talking about a modded 55/40 series either. I took the wrong guess :whoops:.

I'm really not trying to turn this into a SFA v IFS debate. That is defintely been discussed time and time again on just about every 4x4 site. It's not what the poster asked. I was trying to let him/her know that there are other beneficial alternatives to (in my opinion) overpriced IFS lift kits.

I've owned more toyotas 4x4's from years 71-89 than I'd like to admit. They have been IFS, SFA, SAS, POS, LMNOP etc. etc. They have all had there advantages and disavantages. BUT when someone asks a question on how to spend money on their rig wisely I like to give them options they may not thought of or even known about.

If he/she is on a budget I would find a set of decent stock rear springs and put a 2" body lift and be done with it. Skyjacker wants (last time I checked) something like $850 for a 4" lift kit with no shocks or rear sprins + shipping. That's rediculious. A set of 63" chevy springs/shocks and a 2" bodylift would be under $200. Throw an Aussie loker in the rear and you'd be WAY under that $$ and would outwheel the skycrapped rig all day.

I am not a "bandwagoner" nor saying IFS is junk. Just letting the guy know other options.
As for weight carrying capabilities, these are toyota minis/4runners we are talking about right???

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Yes, this is for my 87runner.

I will be doing a 2" body lift. (Thats in the bag).
And a 2" suspension. Front IFS will be adjusted for drop (ball joint spacers) but will not lift it up much.

Goals for the rear are...
ALL the time...
at least 1 5gal. Nato Gas can.
Rear tire carrier bumper
basic tools and an Ice chest with water.
2nd battery (planning to put it in the rear to keep too much weight off the front)

For trips (Camping/hunting/trails/etc.)
Any additional items. And that could get ugly.

Off and on, I throw the bike rack on the hitch and load 4 bikes and kids.

SOOOOO????????????????

That is why I was voting for the OME heavy.
Then there are these
1979-88 Toyota Pickup/4 Runner 2" Lift Rear Springs - eBay (item 260758532247 end time May-24-11 10:16:47 PDT)

From Downey himself...

After asking him on the flex here is what he wrote:

These are Downey springs manufactured by NHK (Toyotas spring factory), none better. OME has a reputation of being very stiff. Downey springs are built to factory spring rate because we want lift and extra travel, but we do not want stiffness!!!

- thetojoman

Toomanytoyzz,
Do the 63 chevy springs give any lift? Or are they at stock height????



Question for all...........

WHAT IS THE STOCK HEIGHT???? From center of rim to fender on the front and rear?

 

[toomanytoyzz]

With the 2" spacer in the front and chevies in the rear you'd should be right on point. Get the 88+ 2wd 1500 series springs. They have 3 leaves and an overload paired to the 4wd version which are 4 leaf w/ overload. You would get good highway driving with even better offroad.

can't comment on downey springs. Had a couple of rigs with Downey clutches, and was never impressed considering the $$ they charged.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Just ordered my 2" complete kit from 4crawler!
D+HD+CLR+P

So were good on that one...

Will be tearing into the front in a few as soon as I'm done with my alternator upgrade.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

SWEET RIG Btw.

I said nothing about a stock 55/40.

It also depends on what sort of terrain you're wheeling as well that determines the progression of the build/ design. For some areas, height and flex might be more important than something else like stability or even weight carrying capacity.

Solid front axles work awesomely. Combined with lower gears and lockers, the trucks are extremely capable. However, I'm also a big proponent of wheeling the rig you have, unless you know what purpose you're building the vehicle for. SFA sometimes seems like a bandwagon that many jump on and criticize the factory IFS for, even when the limits of the capability haven't been reached. Besides, as you said, one thing just cascades into another.