I will later if the engine proves to be okay after the incident...
If you're using a WIX oil filter read this (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter fj40z
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I will later if the engine proves to be okay after the incident...
Please do open it up and see what you find. They seem to not care about a recurring problem. Would be interesting to see if your drainback flap shifted/blocked the passages. The one i sent in they blatantly told me was only allowing like 10% of normal flow, but "there was no problem with the filter that could have caused engine damage" 
On the one I had
Wuck Fix
On the one I had
Wuck Fix
Now I am worried, the shop who does the oil changes on my truck only charges $38.00 and uses o'Reilly filters and they told me orielly filters are made by wics. Do I need to start having them use a different filter? Or is this problem unique to the filter for 93-98 truck's? Do the 3fe and 1fz use the same filter?
Well, change the oil yourself and know its done right. Use Toyota filters. It won't cost you any more money, just a little bit of your time.
Barf. I wouldn't put a Fram filter on anything, free or not haha
The Wix Oil filter for your 3FE is the 51515. This is the same filter for the 1FZ-FE. And YES this is the filter part number that has killed a few 1FZ-FE's.
I used to be a huge Wix fan, but no more! Get that s*** off of there ASAP!
I'm becoming more convinced this may have been what killed my engine as well a few months back. Haven't had time to dive into it (oil pressure gauge on order so I can actually see if any pressure with existing filter and a new one).
For those that have tried to submit something to Napa (I had the Napa branded filter) did you have/did they require proof of purchase? I highly doubt unless I for some reason had an account with Napa and they put it on there, that I have a receipt anymore. Wondering if worth my time to even file a claim if I can't prove the napa filter was purchased at napa :|
For those that have tried to submit something to Napa (I had the Napa branded filter) did you have/did they require proof of purchase? I highly doubt unless I for some reason had an account with Napa and they put it on there, that I have a receipt anymore. Wondering if worth my time to even file a claim if I can't prove the napa filter was purchased at napa :|
If you don't want to do your own oil changes (it's quite easy, but a little messy), just bring a Toyota filter (and drain plug gasket part 90430-12031) for your shop to use instead. You can get the 90915-YZZD3 filter for $4-5 and <$1 per drain plug gasket.
EDIT: Just saw you have a 3FE. Double check which filter to use.
I'm becoming more convinced this may have been what killed my engine as well a few months back. Haven't had time to dive into it (oil pressure gauge on order so I can actually see if any pressure with existing filter and a new one).
For those that have tried to submit something to Napa (I had the Napa branded filter) did you have/did they require proof of purchase? I highly doubt unless I for some reason had an account with Napa and they put it on there, that I have a receipt anymore. Wondering if worth my time to even file a claim if I can't prove the napa filter was purchased at napa :|
I went through the same exact route. Never asked for proof of purchase but nothing ever came from it even after they admitted the filter had failed and there were chunks of filter rubber found inside oil passages.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
I've been using WIX filters since I got this truck and now I'm skeered! I bought a batch of toyota filters and will use them from now on...
Thanks for the info. I kind of expect it will go nowhere also but I figure if It seems the filter is the issue I’ll at least try, if for no other reason than to get it on their records.
Old thread but worth resurrecting - stay away from WIX oil filters (on the ‘80 at least) I also lost my oil pressure with a wix two years ago.
at the time Factory reps requested the filter and an oil sample and then declared the filter worked ‘as designed’ so basically I should suck eggs.
They did offer me a case of filters (I declined of course - how stupid would you have to be to accept more of the same product that already failed) ... they also would not return the filter ( when requested) which I had sent to them undamaged because as other have noted opening the filter negates any responsibility - they said it had ‘been thrown out after examination’ ..... anyway its a BS company with a BS product .... use it at your peril!
Personally I would rather have a fram pos than wix on any vehicle .... fwiw I have only used synthetic oil on all of my vehicles including tractors for the past 20 years. My ‘97 LX 450 had 4200 miles on a new 51348 wix and fresh quaker state 10/30 ‘Full Synthetic’ when I lost pressure at 382k (km) 280k (miles)
after pulling off the Wix I have put about 30k (km) on the vehicle with no further oil pressure loss and NO blxxdy wix filter ... ever again. Lifes too short for this kind of nonsense. Like I said - use wix at your peril.
at the time Factory reps requested the filter and an oil sample and then declared the filter worked ‘as designed’ so basically I should suck eggs.
They did offer me a case of filters (I declined of course - how stupid would you have to be to accept more of the same product that already failed) ... they also would not return the filter ( when requested) which I had sent to them undamaged because as other have noted opening the filter negates any responsibility - they said it had ‘been thrown out after examination’ ..... anyway its a BS company with a BS product .... use it at your peril!
Personally I would rather have a fram pos than wix on any vehicle .... fwiw I have only used synthetic oil on all of my vehicles including tractors for the past 20 years. My ‘97 LX 450 had 4200 miles on a new 51348 wix and fresh quaker state 10/30 ‘Full Synthetic’ when I lost pressure at 382k (km) 280k (miles)
after pulling off the Wix I have put about 30k (km) on the vehicle with no further oil pressure loss and NO blxxdy wix filter ... ever again. Lifes too short for this kind of nonsense. Like I said - use wix at your peril.
Wow
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Buy from Toyota. You can get factory filters for about $0.75 more per filter.
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My experience with Baldwin was the opposite of stellar. Failed media and restrictive fuel filters that cause fuel pump knock. We sent a big box of failed Baldwin filters back and were told we we running the intervals to long. Most of the filters were less than a week in service. Trans oil and fuels. Baldwin is a last resort when it has to be cheap and nothing else matters. Fleetguards are solid. Otherwise I find myself buying a lot of OEM .
Thanks for sharing this info about Wix oil filters
Some time back, AutoZone had a special where I had to buy a filter to get the oil cheaper. Cost of the 'filter and oil special' was cheaper than the oil alone, but I had to buy 'their' STP oil filter. I was unfamiliar with STP filters, but they looked/felt cheap so I left it on the counter and exited with my oil at a discounted price. No need to keep a part around that I won't use.
Agreed. I refuse to use Tough Guard, Fram and now Wix filters (at least no oil filters from Wix or NAPA).
Some time back, AutoZone had a special where I had to buy a filter to get the oil cheaper. Cost of the 'filter and oil special' was cheaper than the oil alone, but I had to buy 'their' STP oil filter. I was unfamiliar with STP filters, but they looked/felt cheap so I left it on the counter and exited with my oil at a discounted price. No need to keep a part around that I won't use.
I've used Toyota, Purolator BOSS, Fram Ultra, or Mobil 1 filters in the past.
Having said all that, I do regular engine oil analyses on every engine oil change and have never seen anything in the results that could be attributed to the oil filter, no matter the brand (but have never used a WIX filter).
Having said all that, I do regular engine oil analyses on every engine oil change and have never seen anything in the results that could be attributed to the oil filter, no matter the brand (but have never used a WIX filter).
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I’ve been running the Baldwin 7977 fuel filter in my 2005 Cummins for many trouble free years. 2 microns nominal and 5 microns absolute. I quite running fleet guard lube filters when I discovered the Donaldson dbl7349. I keep it simple and run the small Toyota filter on my 1fz.
My experience was in a mixed fleet of 60 Cummins ISB engines and Cats along with lessor numbers of other pieces of equipment. The failure rate of Baldwins was high. Baldwin never once admitted to a defect even when a filter that failed in the shop after a service and was returned to Baldwin. The standard answer was "it was ran beyond the service interval". The filter had 20 minutes on it. The Cats would fuel pump knock in the shop after a service with a Baldwin fuel filter. Never had that with any other brand. Baldwin lube filters on the Allison transmission would have the media collapse in under 25,000 miles. Donaldson is also good stuff. Baldwin is the bottom of the food chain in my experience. I am not willing to gamble. I am using TRD filters on my 200 and factory filters on my FJC although it is heading towards getting a Donaldson air set up. My 05 Honda Accord gets synthetic oil and factory filters and has just under 405,000 miles on it. I have never lifted the valve cover. It still runs good.
Quick update on my dead engine. Hooked up an oil pressure gauge with the napa gold filter that was on there when the engine died....it built pressure very slowly and then topped off at about 4psi with cold 15w40 oil in it.
Swapped in a yzzd4 and pressure built very quickly and topped out at about 65psi on a cold engine.
No apparent/visible defect in the napa/wix oil filter. Haven't yet determined if I'll try to send in to Wix/Napa or not deal with the hassle.
Ran engine about 4 seconds or so with the napa filter and it built to about 4 psi before I shut it off. The toyo filter built to about 35psi in the same 4 seconds, and then maxed at 65psi as I ran it for a bit longer.
So, a quick bump to the top that these filters may be more likely than others to kill your engine...order up some Toyota filters before its too late!
In terms of the overall failure, I would take most of the blame as I didn't R/R the oil pressure gauge which never really did all that much. There were no signs of knocking or low pressure until something let loose all at once and lost power. So, in retrospect I should have 1.) Run a different filter and 2.) Ensured that the oil pressure gauge was at least functioning as best it can. For 28 bucks on amazon even a beck arnley replacement pressure sender would have done more than my old original one.
Napa filter (4 second run time up to 4psi)
Toyo Filter (4 second run time at about 35psi, at 8 seconds max at ~65psi)
Swapped in a yzzd4 and pressure built very quickly and topped out at about 65psi on a cold engine.
No apparent/visible defect in the napa/wix oil filter. Haven't yet determined if I'll try to send in to Wix/Napa or not deal with the hassle.
Ran engine about 4 seconds or so with the napa filter and it built to about 4 psi before I shut it off. The toyo filter built to about 35psi in the same 4 seconds, and then maxed at 65psi as I ran it for a bit longer.
So, a quick bump to the top that these filters may be more likely than others to kill your engine...order up some Toyota filters before its too late!
In terms of the overall failure, I would take most of the blame as I didn't R/R the oil pressure gauge which never really did all that much. There were no signs of knocking or low pressure until something let loose all at once and lost power. So, in retrospect I should have 1.) Run a different filter and 2.) Ensured that the oil pressure gauge was at least functioning as best it can. For 28 bucks on amazon even a beck arnley replacement pressure sender would have done more than my old original one.
Napa filter (4 second run time up to 4psi)
Toyo Filter (4 second run time at about 35psi, at 8 seconds max at ~65psi)
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