Idler pulley (1 Viewer)

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Feb 23, 2014
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Anyone know if there is a lock nut or any trick to get the idler pulley off the one under the alternator or is it opposite thread I can't seem to crack it no matter what as the pulley is seized up


93 vx sahara 1fz-fe 4.5L petrol
 
Anyone know if there is a lock nut or any trick to get the idler pulley off the one under the alternator or is it opposite thread I can't seem to crack it no matter what as the pulley is seized up


93 vx sahara 1fz-fe 4.5L petrol


I have taken several off during repairs and I am pretty sure it is just normal: righty tighty, lefty loosey. Clockwise tightens and counter clockwise loosens. No tricks to removing it for me. Try tapping on the bolt head a few times with a hammer to jar it loose. John
 
X2. It's normal threads. You can try to put a closed end wrench on it and hit it with hammer "quick" to shock the bolt loose. No following threw with your hammer. It's tight in there. Maybe talking off you fan and shroud would make getting the pulley off a little easier for you. Might sound crazy but it works. Done it a bunch on BMW cooling fans that have a reverse thread. Who needs the SST :meh:

OR you can try soaking with liquid wrench or something. Then try a 18" breaker bar
 
Mine was tight but I used one wrench locked into the end of another wrench for leverage.
 
It’s a standard bearing - you can go down to the local shop and purchase a replacement for less than $10. If it’s just dry, pop off the dust seal and repack it
 
It’s a standard bearing - you can go down to the local shop and purchase a replacement for less than $10. If it’s just dry, pop off the dust seal and repack it

True for the A/C idler, never seen an alt side that could have the bearing replaced. We just chuck them in the recycle and run without.
 
Or buy a new one from Toyota for like $25.
 
If this is the idler in question, it's (as the gentlemen above indicated) a normal ball bearing, NSK, Timken, SKF, etc.
The bearing number is 6301 DUC 3, i am not a bearing specialist and I believe the last 3 letters and digit correspond to some standard of protection or what covers the balls inside, something like the IP of water & dust ingress.
IMG_4017.JPG
 
The pic above is for a bearing I just replaced, and its easy, snap ring off, brass rod and hammer, 6301 is the size (both external & internal)
 
If this is the idler in question, it's (as the gentlemen above indicated) a normal ball bearing, NSK, Timken, SKF, etc.
The bearing number is 6301 DUC 3, i am not a bearing specialist and I believe the last 3 letters and digit correspond to some standard of protection or what covers the balls inside, something like the IP of water & dust ingress.
View attachment 1795533
This is the A/C idler pully assy, NOT the alternator idler.
 
This is the A/C idler pully assy, NOT the alternator idler.

Yup. That is a good, easy replacement for the AC. NOT the same as the alternator idler pulley. The alternator idler pulley is actually pretty useless. Appears to be designed to reduce belt slap/noise. We have removed/discarded many of these and nobody has noticed/complained about any additional noise.
 
Running 37's will do that!
 
I just bought new from Camelback Toyota. They give ih8mud discount, its usually pretty damn good. Think that whole pully was 48 bucks. Came with a new adjuster but not the bolt. s*** purrs now instead of chirping like a damn cricket.

Edit: it may have been 68 iirc, main idler pully was cheaper. Either way, cheap for Toyota
 
For the AC idle pulley, the 6301 bearings are available for around $10.
 

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