Ideas for improving the 2LTE (3 Viewers)

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I don't think water temps would be higher without adding fuel all things considered equal. You'd get less heat soak in the exhaust runner. Have to retard the timing a bit though. nNow not retarding timing with a turbo could give you higher water temps.

Sorry, I assumed he'd tune for more fuel with a boost comp. More air/fuel being burned will mean more heat. This is why normally aspirated L series don't crack heads, but turbo ones do. It's the extra heat that causes problems.

I agree with you guys. If fuel was left alone, EGT would be lower and water temps likely unchanged.
 
Yeah more fuel is always more of a challenge for a cooling system no matter how clean you burn. Now I dare you to add a turbo and try and leave the fuel alone. Add some fuel then put it back to the stock setting. See how long that lasts!
 
Yeah more fuel is always more of a challenge for a cooling system no matter how clean you burn. Now I dare you to add a turbo and try and leave the fuel alone. Add some fuel then put it back to the stock setting. See how long that lasts!

Sorry, I don't get what you mean by this, care to explain?
It is my plan to leave the fuel alone.
 
Sorry, I don't get what you mean by this, care to explain?
It is my plan to leave the fuel alone.

There is basically no point in turboing if you're not going to add fuel. All Toyota's factory turbo diesels have a boost compensator on them. Purpose of this is to add fuel with boost. So at idle and off boost your fueling will be the same as now. But as the turbo spools and boost increases, the boost comp adds an appropriate amount of fuel. It is highly adjustable, so you can still operate well into the safe region if you want. What Gerg is getting at is when you feel the power from adding fuel, you won't want to go back. It is addictive....trust me!

Just adding a turbo, but not increasing fuel will not really gain you much power. Maybe a little efficiency increase from the leaner air fuel ratio though.
 
Well, that was what I thought too. But apparently, these Australian companies sell turbo kits for the 2L and 3L and 5L engines, without modifying the fuel pump.
I know a guy who has the same van as me (okay he has the 2.8 3L but same otherwise) and he installed such a turbo kit. He said it was faster and more silent. I have asked him two times now if the fuel pump was modified but it was not!

I guess that speaks for the fact that the engine may run cooler temps with a turbo? So that a turbo would act as a partial solution to heat soak, on these engines without turbo?
In those situations, where speed is possible even declining, when going uphill on a highway, there is a lot of load on the engine. I guess you could say that you are noticing not only the lack of power, but also heat soak which makes it run even poorer.
Even if there is no heat soak taking place, I think it will be running way too rich during these times.

I will totally believe that once you start messing with the fuel pump, you will be able to feel the power and get addicted.
If I install an intercooler than maybe I will do that, as long as the EGT keep low.
I already have the fuel filter separated from the engine compartment, and I also have a snorkel. That an intercooler should possibly keep the EGT low enough anyway for some tuning.

But since we intend to take it on a trip for half a year, it will need to be reliable as well. One of the parts will be through a desert area.
I don't want to jump sand dunes, but extra power in the sand is appreciated. However, this should not be at the cost of reliability.

Without the boost compensator I don't want to tune it up too much. I really like how the van currently is, because it really never lets out some black smoke. Really never. When we had the BJ45 landcruiser, with the 3B, it would happen sometimes. But this van is running so well, I can never get it to smoke visibly. Hopefully I can keep it tidy like that.
 
Well, that was what I thought too. But apparently, these Australian companies sell turbo kits for the 2L and 3L and 5L engines, without modifying the fuel pump.
I know a guy who has the same van as me (okay he has the 2.8 3L but same otherwise) and he installed such a turbo kit. He said it was faster and more silent. I have asked him two times now if the fuel pump was modified but it was not!

I guess that speaks for the fact that the engine may run cooler temps with a turbo? So that a turbo would act as a partial solution to heat soak, on these engines without turbo?
In those situations, where speed is possible even declining, when going uphill on a highway, there is a lot of load on the engine. I guess you could say that you are noticing not only the lack of power, but also heat soak which makes it run even poorer.
Even if there is no heat soak taking place, I think it will be running way too rich during these times.

I will totally believe that once you start messing with the fuel pump, you will be able to feel the power and get addicted.
If I install an intercooler than maybe I will do that, as long as the EGT keep low.
I already have the fuel filter separated from the engine compartment, and I also have a snorkel. That an intercooler should possibly keep the EGT low enough anyway for some tuning.

But since we intend to take it on a trip for half a year, it will need to be reliable as well. One of the parts will be through a desert area.
I don't want to jump sand dunes, but extra power in the sand is appreciated. However, this should not be at the cost of reliability.

Without the boost compensator I don't want to tune it up too much. I really like how the van currently is, because it really never lets out some black smoke. Really never. When we had the BJ45 landcruiser, with the 3B, it would happen sometimes. But this van is running so well, I can never get it to smoke visibly. Hopefully I can keep it tidy like that.

Keep an eye out for a used boost compensator from a 2LT-II just incase you go that route. At least it gives you the option to tune it the way you want. Internally it's just a diaphram with a pin attached to it. The boost pressure pushes the pin down. The pin has a contour on it. As it travels down, a little follower pin follows the contour and adds fuel. The pin shape is eccentric. So you can spin the pin for different rates. There is a spring that resists the pin. It's adjustable too, so you can change the resistance to pin movement (boost pressure). And there is a cam on top which allows you to change the start fueling. A boost comp would be a pretty easy thing to add. Basically just a different lid for your pump.

And you're right. Non intercooled you'll want to be way more conservative with the fuel. If you do a front mount intercooler, heat soak should not be an issue. It allows a lot more fuel (power) with lower EGT.
 
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Yes a boost compensator would be great, but than I would expect to need more cooling.
So not using a boost compensator is like a limit to not get to hot.
Basically step plan is:

1: Buy turbo (duh)
2: See if it fits (mainly exhaust and intake plumbing)
3: Install it together with EGT
4: See how it runs, how hot it gets
5: Possibly install intercooler

I can tune it to make more power, and yes it will be very addictive.
But the problem is, I have very little time to test it properly. I live in a flat country, and whenever it gets warm here, I'm already leaving on the trip for half a year. Would've been great if I had it last year already, to see it perform on a holiday.
So I have to be a bit conservative to keep it reliable, not to have problems when I'm 10.000km from home :D

This also means I will never place an intercooler in front of the radiator. I could only place an Air to Air radiator above the front bumper, externally! That is between the headlights but a bit more forward.
That would mean having a bullbar made with an intergrated intercooler, which would be nice but maybe to costly.
Water to Air would means I can position it a bit better externally, without bullbar. But that would look strange I think.
 
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Yes a boost compensator would be great, but than I would expect to need more cooling.
So not using a boost compensator is like a limit to not get to hot.
Basically step plan is:

1: Buy turbo (duh)
2: See if it fits (mainly exhaust and intake plumbing)
3: Install it together with EGT
4: See how it runs, how hot it gets
5: Possibly install intercooler

I can tune it to make more power, and yes it will be very addictive.
But the problem is, I have very little time to test it properly. I live in a flat country, and whenever it gets warm here, I'm already leaving on the trip for half a year. Would've been great if I had it last year already, to see it perform on a holiday.
So I have to be a bit conservative to keep it reliable, not to have problems when I'm 10.000km from home :D

This also means I will never place an intercooler in front of the radiator. I could only place an Air to Air radiator above the front bumper, externally! That is between the headlights but a bit more forward.
That would mean having a bullbar made with an intergrated intercooler, which would be nice but maybe to costly.
Water to Air would means I can position it a bit better externally, without bullbar. But that would look strange I think.

With air to water intercoolers you can be pretty creative in placement. With a good fan (Spal) and placement in front or low down in the engine bay, you can have pretty good performance. I had a Toyota MR2 supercharged (mid engine) a few years ago. I had swapped a Japanese later generation engine in that had the intercooler right over the valve cover. It would get heat soaked within 20min of just normal driving. Was terrible. I changed the mounting location underneath and in front of the engine, and put a Spal fan on it. The difference was incredible. No more heat soak, and pulled cool air up from under the car. Just an example....not saying underneath would be good on a 4wd... As long as you can avoid putting it on top of the engine, and the fan can pull from a cool air source, it would be good.

There is a 1KZTE powered version of your van that came with a factory water air intercooler system. Would be interesting to know where Toyota mounted the intercooler.
 
@GTSSportCoupe Haha that is nice, I also have an MR2 :D
You mean supercharged so you mean the mk1 version right?
I have an mk1 from 1985, have it for ten years now. But no supercharger unfortunately, we didn't get them in Europe.

Anyway, I will check the location later. First have to get the van back, right now the rearbumper / swing out tyre carrier and stuff is getting ready.
 
@GTSSportCoupe Haha that is nice, I also have an MR2 :D
You mean supercharged so you mean the mk1 version right?
I have an mk1 from 1985, have it for ten years now. But no supercharger unfortunately, we didn't get them in Europe.

Anyway, I will check the location later. First have to get the van back, right now the rearbumper / swing out tyre carrier and stuff is getting ready.

Haha, that is cool you have an MR2 as well! They are such great little cars. I really miss mine. I had done a lot of work to it. Mine was a 1987 sunroof model. I bought a 1990 smallport 8.9:1 CR 4AGZE (late AE92) from Japan. This is the motor I installed. I modified that motor quite a bit, to about 190-200hp (thinks like 20v black top header, bored out throttle body, larger SC pulley, special techtom programmed ECU, etc.) Made the car very quick. I had also done suspension, exhaust, etc.

On that topic, here is a picture of the car, and the unique intercooler system:

MR2.jpg
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IMG_5721.jpg
 
Hi, can you guys tell me how the oil inlet and outlet of the turbo are placed?

I'm trying to figure out where a 2L-T or 2L-TE has the oil lines connected to the engine block. Hopefully I can copy it that way as much as possible. (I'm trying to put a turbo on a 2L as mentioned before)

I do not get the full picture from looking in toyodiy.com

Edit: My idea is to take oil and return it from the same lines as the vacuum pump, but maybe there is a better option.
 
Hi, can you guys tell me how the oil inlet and outlet of the turbo are placed?

I'm trying to figure out where a 2L-T or 2L-TE has the oil lines connected to the engine block. Hopefully I can copy it that way as much as possible. (I'm trying to put a turbo on a 2L as mentioned before)

I do not get the full picture from looking in toyodiy.com

Edit: My idea is to take oil and return it from the same lines as the vacuum pump, but maybe there is a better option.

Hopefully this picture helps answer your questions. Basically you need a turbo version of the oil cooler assembly. It has a oil feed for the turbo and vacuum pump. If you have a boss in the block casting where the turbo oil drain should be, you could drill it out and put a fitting in there. Or you could drill out the oil pan, and weld a turbo drain there....

IMG_20180310_110359807.jpg
 
Ah I see it enters the block there next to the oil filter, probably going directly into the sump?
A friend suggested to make an entry into the sump on the side, with an elbow angle, so the turbo can always dump its oil. Not to combine it with the oil return from the vacuum pump because it would be more risky, if it were to clog. I guess that is probably the best, unless my engine block has that exact opening unused currently. I will need to check it.

The oil inlet on the oil cooler you say?
When I check it out the oil cooler for my van, both the 2L and 2L-TE version just show this basic picture, with exactly the same oil cooler, see below.

I also found the pictures for the plate (which is in opaque here) and they have the same kind of outlets on both engines.
Probably the exit is on the other side, what the pictures don't show.

671150_1503_0002.png
 
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Ah I see it enters the block there next to the oil filter, probably going directly into the sump?
A friend suggested to make an entry into the sump on the side, with an elbow angle, so the turbo can always dump its oil. Not to combine it with the oil return from the vacuum pump because it would be more risky, if it were to clog. I guess that is probably the best, unless my engine block has that exact opening unused currently. I will need to check it.

The oil inlet on the oil cooler you say?
When I check it out the oil cooler for my van, both the 2L and 2L-TE version just show this basic picture, with exactly the same oil cooler, see below.

I also found the pictures for the plate (which is in opaque here) and they have the same kind of outlets on both engines.
Probably the exit is on the other side, what the pictures don't show.

If you download the manuals for the 2L/3L/5L (linked first post of this thread), you can see pictures of the different types of oil coolers on these engines. Look in the RM520E manual in the oil cooler section. There are at least three different types of oil coolers. Two have oil feeds, and the other doesn't. I think there is oil pressure control for the turbo as well (spring type, internal).

Maybe you could buy the turbo version oil cooler and use it instead?
 
Thanks. Well I have the one with the filter facing down. And I'm unsure if I could fit the one with the filter horizontal, because the engine bay in my van.
I do see that the turbo version of the van also has the filter facing down. So probably that oil cooler would do the trick, but I won't be able to find those parts.

What I read is that they usually take the oil from somewhere else. Like vacuum pump inlet, or oil pressure sensor.

If there is such a thing as an oil pressure control for the turbo, that would be relevant. But it also means that these aftermarket projects don't use them.
 
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Thanks. Well I have the one with the filter facing down. And I'm unsure if I could fit the one with the filter horizontal, because the engine bay in my van.
I do see that the turbo version of the van also has the filter facing down. So probably that oil cooler would do the trick, but I won't be able to find those parts.

What I read is that they usually take the oil from somewhere else. Like vacuum pump inlet, or oil pressure sensor.

If there is such a thing as an oil pressure control for the turbo, that would be relevant. But it also means that these aftermarket projects don't use them.

Yes, people do use those locations as an oil source for sure. I think some turbo's have oil restriction to ensure the pressure is correct.
 
It is never been to be late to say thank you for this thread. I've done to rebuild the engine and do some improvement base on this forum knowledge share. Before the project begins, as everyone knows, when the time comes, the engine will shows you a lot of symptom such as grey/white smoke comes out. Mine, it shows around at 440k++ on odometer reading. Then, from that moment I just follows this Forums for my reference. FYI, I've been studied all related information, comment and follow their best advice. This DIY project is starts in March until June 2016.

Mine doesn't install any additional gauge meter on my dashboard, but what I'm done after rebuild the engine (Including servicing the turbo system, fuel pump, fuel filter, alternator, starter, clutch fan and radiator) is deleting the EGR System, Change the air intake system, add auxilary fan front mounted for A/C and support its stock clutch fan. Change the exhaust piping to 2.5", Install Front Mount Intercooler.

Now, the result is fantastic in term of performance and reliability. The max speed is 120km/h. (Just ignore the body paint, its not a big deal)
Everybody in my family, friends and I called him "Apek" (Old Man) means that it is not she/her/girl- It's already old dude..;):D:p.

Year:1992-LJ78W-PGT. It is 2.4 EFI/TD c/w RR Diff.Locker.

I really appreciate and feel proud for being part of this forum community.

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