I'd love to see pics of 285/70/R18 set up on LC200

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I found this thread really helpful, so here's my addition. The guys at Mill Creek Overland just finished the Slinky Stage 4 heavy suspension, adding in the Trail Tailor hidden winch, and the tires. Went with the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70r18s on stock rims with 1.25 inch Spidertrax spacers. Only a few miles, but the ride is super smooth. I have the expected rubbing on the front plastic and the rear mud flap at full turn, and when in reverse. Heat gun and adjustments to come.
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I found this thread really helpful, so here's my addition. The guys at Mill Creek Overland just finished the Slinky Stage 4 heavy suspension, adding in the Trail Tailor hidden winch, and the tires. Went with the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70r18s on stock rims with 1.25 inch Spidertrax spacers. Only a few miles, but the ride is super smooth. I have the expected rubbing on the front plastic and the rear mud flap at full turn, and when in reverse. Heat gun and adjustments to come.View attachment 2695120View attachment 2695122
Update: took off those little plastic plates in the front wheel well, and after 90 minutes with a heat gun and a couple blocks of wood, no rubbing.
 
Update: took off those little plastic plates in the front wheel well, and after 90 minutes with a heat gun and a couple blocks of wood, no rubbing.
Nice truck man! I'm in north Franklin, PM me and we can meet up. I have a 2008, a 2016, a fj62, and a fj40. My 2008 is my daily, and it has some mild mods too. I would like to see a hidden winch mount in person.

cheers, Joel
 
Team grey all day.
 
So hey mud! I am getting our 2016 very soon in my hands and have been given clearance to modify it.

I am looking at this tire size as a very practical tire that isn't too small or too big... I will be adding a suspension upgrade to the truck, and leaning towards the Ironman FCP with Ironman UCA, stage 2.

I am also looking at the 285/75/18 but I know it is on the "edge". I have seen the Nitro gear 200 series and that tire size looks great on that rig.

thoughts??

cheers,

Joel
 
So hey mud! I am getting our 2016 very soon in my hands and have been given clearance to modify it.

I am looking at this tire size as a very practical tire that isn't too small or too big... I will be adding a suspension upgrade to the truck, and leaning towards the Ironman FCP with Ironman UCA, stage 2.

I am also looking at the 285/75/18 but I know it is on the "edge". I have seen the Nitro gear 200 series and that tire size looks great on that rig.

thoughts??

cheers,

Joel
won’t fit without KDSS relo kit, possibly more work required such as a BMC chop.

285/75R17 or 285/70R18 will fit with effort. Tire will likely rub the KDSS at full lock, even with mud flap removal, plastic liner reshaping and/or cutting. Tires will fit tightly in the wheel well and you do run a small chance of hitting the fender if you’re hard lock left or right and full suspension flex. 34s are doable, you can read my “34’s on stock suspension” thread

285/70R17 or 285/65R18 will fit with little or no effort. 33s are easy.
 
won’t fit without KDSS relo kit, possibly more work required such as a BMC chop.

285/75R17 or 285/70R18 will fit with effort. Tire will likely rub the KDSS at full lock, even with mud flap removal, plastic liner reshaping and/or cutting. Tires will fit tightly in the wheel well and you do run a small chance of hitting the fender if you’re hard lock left or right and full suspension flex. 34s are doable, you can read my “34’s on stock suspension” thread

285/70R17 or 285/65R18 will fit with little or no effort. 33s are easy.

I am planning on the Ironman lift at the same time as the tire addition, so the rig won't be stock height when i increase tire size. I may likely add the KDSS relocation at the same time as a PM, since that is a barrier that comes back time and time again in these tire threads. The rigs in this thread look really good for my build with Elsie. For a DD the proportions are important...!
 
I am planning on the Ironman lift at the same time as the tire addition, so the rig won't be stock height when i increase tire size. I may likely add the KDSS relocation at the same time as a PM, since that is a barrier that comes back time and time again in these tire threads. The rigs in this thread look really good for my build with Elsie. For a DD the proportions are important...!
Lift will only help reduce the risk of scrubbing your fender. It won't help with KDSS/sway bar, UCA, or body mount clearance. Lifting an IFS rig changes the starting point in your suspension arc, but it doesn't modify the arc itself. That's different than a solid axle where lifting pushes the axle downward and creates clearance.

As I said read my 34s on stock suspension thread. Those are 285/75R17 tires, which are 33.8" diameter - a full inch less than what you're looking at by running the same aspect ratio on 18" wheels. I had to do a lot of trimming and ultimately a KDSS relo to get my tires to fit. You're effectively looking at a 35" tire, and that won't fit without significant effort (fender lining cutting/reworking, mud flap removal, permanently reshaping the mud flap mounts, KDSS relo, possibly body mount chop, alignment tweaking, possibly a UCA).
 
Lift will only help reduce the risk of scrubbing your fender. It won't help with KDSS/sway bar, UCA, or body mount clearance. Lifting an IFS rig changes the starting point in your suspension arc, but it doesn't modify the arc itself. That's different than a solid axle where lifting pushes the axle downward and creates clearance.

As I said read my 34s on stock suspension thread. Those are 285/75R17 tires, which are 33.8" diameter - a full inch less than what you're looking at by running the same aspect ratio on 18" wheels. I had to do a lot of trimming and ultimately a KDSS relo to get my tires to fit. You're effectively looking at a 35" tire, and that won't fit without significant effort (fender lining cutting/reworking, mud flap removal, permanently reshaping the mud flap mounts, KDSS relo, possibly body mount chop, alignment tweaking, possibly a UCA).

AKA gotta pay to play :)
 
AKA gotta pay to play :)
Yeah, no kidding. Add on a rear bumper, because 34" is the largest tire that fits in the spare location. 35's won't fit so gotta relocate that too. I think longer bump stops are recommended as well or you may hit the top of the wheel well at full compression. Also at least on the 2008-2015 models shops start to recommend regearing once you hit 35's. etc.

I've said it before:
  • 33's are easy and are the sweet spot for cost and effort
  • 34's are doable if you're mildly crazy, and probably worth the performance vs effort/cost for many enthusiasts around here.
  • 35's are possible if you're obsessed and don't mind the costs and compromises, but not so OCD that every rub at full lock or compression bothers you
  • 37's are for those who are bat**** insane and have $ to burn
I'm still in the 34 camp. Just replaced my tires this summer so I'll be in it for another 3-4 years. Whenever I do a rear bumper I may consider 35's (or even go down @indycole's route of >35's) but again it's all a question of $, effort, and what you are willing to compromise to do it (again lots of $ and effort)
 
All good, yeah I have had enough solid axle Cruisers to know that on a 40, 60, and 80 series it was extremely easy to run a 35 inch tire. The hundred series trucks we had were also stock.

I didn’t think that the 285/70/18 was a 35 inch tire?
 
Here is my buddy’s rig with Ironman lift and 285/70/18

DBA6940E-7CE9-4EC8-B68A-0E28DCAC0BB1.jpeg
 
He took it out to Colorado with us this summer, and it was a nice stance, very proportional
 
All good, yeah I have had enough solid axle Cruisers to know that on a 40, 60, and 80 series it was extremely easy to run a 35 inch tire. The hundred series trucks we had were also stock.

I didn’t think that the 285/70/18 was a 35 inch tire?
285/70R18 is a 34" tire

285/75R18 is a 35" tire

Sorry you'd said "I am also looking at the 285/75/18 but I know it is on the "edge"." My comments about it not easily fitting are regarding this tire which is 35". This one can be done but there's some significant coin required and/or compromises to do so.

A 34" tire will fit, with limited compromises and effort. There will be some fender liner cutting/reshaping, mudflap changes, etc to make it work. But it will fit, albeit potentially with some limited rubbing on the KDSS unless you do the relo kit.
 
Yeah, no kidding. Add on a rear bumper, because 34" is the largest tire that fits in the spare location. 35's won't fit so gotta relocate that too. I think longer bump stops are recommended as well or you may hit the top of the wheel well at full compression. Also at least on the 2008-2015 models shops start to recommend regearing once you hit 35's. etc.

I've said it before:
  • 33's are easy and are the sweet spot for cost and effort
  • 34's are doable if you're mildly crazy, and probably worth the performance vs effort/cost for many enthusiasts around here.
  • 35's are possible if you're obsessed and don't mind the costs and compromises, but not so OCD that every rub at full lock or compression bothers you
  • 37's are for those who are bats*** insane and have $ to burn
I'm still in the 34 camp. Just replaced my tires this summer so I'll be in it for another 3-4 years. Whenever I do a rear bumper I may consider 35's (or even go down @indycole's route of >35's) but again it's all a question of $, effort, and what you are willing to compromise to do it (again lots of $ and effort)
Are those the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 you went with? Any KDSS relo or spacers? Regear necessary if I'm not pulling anything?
 
Are those the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 you went with? Any KDSS relo or spacers? Regear necessary if I'm not pulling anything?

Yes that is the size. 33.8" officially, stamped "34x11.5" on the tire.

I have the KDSS relo kit but you probably can run them without it. It depends a bit on the wheel offset and your alignment settings... more caster = more likely to rub

I have +25 offset Icon wheels, which is roughly the same as factory +60 offset plus 1.25" spidertrax

Regear is not necessary, but it's more fun. If not towing you can enable ECT PWR and that gets you closer to stock feeling. I towed on factory 3.90s on my 2013 for a few years. About 13,600# between my trailer and the rig. Mountain passes required a lot of second gear but generally I'd just run in 4th gear all day long and it was fine. That said re-gearing with larger tires will get you back the "spirited" accelerator that ECT PWR gives you when on factory tires. It also allows me to sometimes use 5th gear when towing, which will help MPG by about 10%... helpful but it will never pay for the work. FWIW I went to 4.88s which really overshoots the gearing "need" by about 15%. They did improve my MPG around town *if* I am really careful with the throttle (which is never), but highway mileage suffers when not towing.
 
Are those the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 you went with? Any KDSS relo or spacers? Regear necessary if I'm not pulling anything?

I dont notice much daily driving but the real bummer is not going into overdrive on the hwy. My trunk absolutely hunts all over the place above 70 mph.
 

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