To fit 34s on +25 offset wheels:
- Remove mudflaps
- There's a bracket behind the mud flap that you'll need to "massage" with a hammer to improve the arc and...
- Use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to warm the inner liner by the mud flap and then reshape it (I just pressed it inward until it cooled)
- I trimmed out a 12-18" tall section of the front inner liner at the bottom of the bumper since I was rubbing there
#2 and #3 are required on lower offset wheels because the arc changes slightly and the wheel well is squared off in that spot for some reason. I think
@Atwalz fitted 34s on +50 RWs and didn't have to do this or get as aggressive in his trimming as I did in #4. YMMV - I was willing to be aggressive in cutting anything even vaguely close since I didn't want any rubbing when driving and I will eventually replace the front bumper with something that has more clearance anyway.
I still have the slightest rub on the KDSS arm at full right lock. It's made my KDSS arm shiny in one spot. I can't feel it rubbing, but it must be.
Once I put on adjustable UCAs and added +2 degrees of caster with them I now get a slight rub at full left lock when moving (not when sitting still) as the inside of the tire slightly rubs the sway bar. My wife noticed "a slight vibration in the steering wheel and clicking noise when turning hard left pulling out of our driveway", as she put it. I'm at 4.2 degrees of caster on the right, which is above the 3.5 degrees max spec. Next time I bring it in for an alignment I'll have the shop dial it back a bit. I told her "if it makes a noise just let tension off the wheel slightly and it'll stop". (Note this didn't rub when the alignment was in factory specs with the Toyota UCA.)
I have photos around here somewhere, and if there's something specific you'd like to see I'm happy to retake them this weekend.
