I would like some opinions on POR-15...

[Droopynut]

I am about to buy a really, really nice FJ-62...Yeah I know most of you don't care for the 62 but anyway...This truck is mint in my opinion, except for some rust that's in it's fetal stages on the inner doors and a bit below the rear window.

What I would like to do is use POR-15 and top coat it with some touch up paint.

What I would like to know is if any of you have used this stuff...does it work?

Because I would love to eliminate the rust before it gets worse.

Thanks, Dan

 

[KLF]

I used a bunch of it several years ago. I'll never use it again. Overpriced, it peeled off, then whatever was remaining in the can got hard and I had to throw it away. Yes, I did everything for prep that they have. It didn't help.

Go with Rustoleum. Lots of color choices, and you can buy it everywhere in spray and brush cans. I like the Red Metal Primer first, then a couple of top coats, usually with satin black. Easy to touch up too.

 

[Heartworm]

POR-15

I have used it some and have had mixed results. There is a lot of prep work involved (and yes, I did it) which involves removing all grease, oil, dirt, scale, loose paint, etc with elbow grease or tools. Then you have to degrease it with the POR detergent. Then, you have to etch it with the POR metal ready. Then, you have to put 2 coats of the POR-15 on. It is at least a 2-day process. POR-15 sticks best to rusted metal. It is less likely to stick to good paint, even if you rough it up. Although it is a hard paint, gravel will pit it. When I rebuilt my engine, I did most of the miscellaneous motor parts, skid plate and splash pans with it and it had held up. Not so for my front bumper which is peeling like a SOB. I am going to have to sandblast it and go another route there, probably powder coat.

After using POR-15 on 2 rigs, I tried Rust Bullet. I like it better. The prep work is just the basic prep...physical cleaning and degrease (dish soap, simple green, etc.). I have been using it on engine and running gear parts so have not top coated, but their information says that one can top coat. The basic Rust Bullet is silver colored. It dries hard and goes on fairly smooth; really smooth with a brush on the first coat but less so on the second (same as for POR-15). Rust Bullet is available is a "six-shooter" kit of 6 little cans so that you don't open it all a once which is ideal for a lot of our type of work.

I am in the same boat as you are. My wheel wells are all dinged up and there is surface rust starting. I am thinking about hitting them with the sand blaster (inside wheel wells) and then putting on Rust Bullet. Then, I am going to do the lower perimeter of the vehicle with some type of bedliner to deal with the gravel problem.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[nspctr1]

I used POR on my fuel tank in my 40. so far so good but as mentioned earlier, the final product depends greatly on the prep. I guess that is with any product tho. I like it.







PS. don't get it on you, it will be there for a while...

 

[brazier]

I used a bunch of it several years ago. I'll never use it again. Overpriced, it peeled off, then whatever was remaining in the can got hard and I had to throw it away. Yes, I did everything for prep that they have. It didn't help.
.

I had a similar experience with POR15. I will not use it again. I will have a professional fix my rust in the future.

 

[mmw68]

I am about to buy a really, really nice FJ-62...

I happen to love my FJ62! I 've always used Eastwood products with good luck.

On my last FJ62 - I had a few spots on the rear wheel well - I used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Aerosol can.

Eastwood Co. - Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Black Aerosol 16 oz

 

[Spike Strip]

On my current project I've used pos15, rust bullet, zero-rust, and Chassis Saver.... (no kidding), They all seem to work well, but the easiest application, and very tough, was the "Chassis Saver" by magnet paints. Rust Bullet was used on the frame. I did one under coat and two top coats. Very tough stuff. Big globs of it fell onto the tarp, and when I peeled it off, it was like ABS plastic. but as said above, first coat dried very smooth. Top coats got kind of bumpy. Could have been my application --

Any of 'em are good.

 

[cruiser88]

pr15 is so over rated...... there is some DAM good industrial stuff on the market today. If you need some help finding something decide how much $$$$ you want to spend and give me a yell.

 

[Droopynut]

Thanks for the advice...I will probably try a small can of it and see what happens. It doesn't have too much rust right now. The truck is from Texas and spent some time on the southeast coast. The current owner, who lives in CT says he used it in the winter so that may be why it is starting to rust in certain spots. They use a crap load of salt in the Tri-State area in the winter unfortunately. I just don't want this thing to get worse.

 

[Spike Strip]

pr15 is so over rated...... there is some DAM good industrial stuff on the market today. If you need some help finding something decide how much $$$$ you want to spend and give me a yell.

Cruiser, what kind of industrial stuff do you recommend? I'm looking for something with lots of Zinc or Chromate in it, now, to do the cowl area...

Thanks,

S.

 

[cruiser88]

Cruiser, what kind of industrial stuff do you recommend? I'm looking for something with lots of Zinc or Chromate in it, now, to do the cowl area...

Thanks,

S.

Give me a minute

 

[cruiser88]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/209452-just-link.html

take your pick...

 

[Spike Strip]

I like.

Thank you.

 

[Kief]

I just put some on some raw steel/ post sandblasting and I had a hard time getting the can open. My first experience with sandblasting I used a PPF epoxy primer and concept paints. I am undecided if I will go with the POR 15 again. Now trying to decide if body filler should be applied over areas of POR or just sand it back down to metal. Mainly used it to get into the seams and hollows that I can't spray the primer into. Not horribly impressed so far.

 

[High Desert]

I've used it for small areas and a battery tray on two rigs over the last 5 years. Still holding up. I jumped through all the hoops in prep. I resealed the can (1/2pint) with cling wrap under the lid. kept it in the refrigerator for 4.5years, used it till it ran out...

 

[cruiserpants]

"I am about to buy a really, really nice FJ-62...Yeah I know most of you don't care for the 62 but anyway..."

Congrats, Buying a 62 is a genius move.

 

[Droopynut]

Thanks, I would only use the POR 15 for minor spots...I don't think I would paint a whole frame with it and expect it to stay rust free. The typical spots inside the doors where there is seam sealer are showing surface rust. I figure if I paint those spots I'll be in good shape. I have a 60 that is disintegrating from bottom up because of the salt they use out here. I'll be lucky to get a grand for it.

Lesson learned: Never buy old school Toyotas with rust...unless it's just a little bit that can be nipped in the bud.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Remember that with rust in painted areas, it's not only the rust you see that'll get ya. I'm referring to that rear hatch rust, specifically. It's right at the window gasket, I'm betting? Mine was just paint bubbles, and ended up extending deeply under the gasket into the pinch weld/ channel area. I could push through it with a screwdriver. In the other areas, I'd wire wheel that seam sealer out, paint, then reapply 3M seam sealer.

 

[Buffalo]

I have used it a fair bit in my MG sportscar. Unfortunately i am not too impressed either. It peeled like a rubber skin from it's underside, leaving a the rusty metal exposed.

POR stands for paint over rust. Yet i did that (light surface rust, not serious) and still it did not stick, it just lifted in an area and could be peeled back. In my opinion it is better to take the panel back to as bare metal as possible and treat the rust as appropriate; priming and then re-spraying. POR15 to me is too good to be true.

From what i remember too, you need a special primer to paint over POR15 and there is still issues of paint compatibility. I reckon there are too many issues. I don't think i would use it again either...

~PHIL