I thought that I had graduated to 1 Banana, Guess not--need your help

[smittycrusher]

So after 2 PHHs, starter contacts, plugs/wires, diff. and t-case fluids, radiators flushes, CDL/7 pin, CUPHOLDER, etc. I thought for sure I was a 1 wrench. This morning I woke up, decided to change the diff/t-case oils, and do the plugs and wires in my 93 before heading into work. Just last week I was over at Slomo's doing the same to my 97. So I figure after doing it once last week this would be no sweat. I guess the big difference is using very nice tools @ Mo's and going to my K-mart all in one tool set (at least that is what I am telling myself). So immediatly I ruled out the plugs/wires as my "spark plug" socket out of my K-mart Kit is too small (owell that can wait)...So on to the Diff./t-case oil. Drain the front diff...no problem...Go to the rear diff to drain...can't get it to lossen at all...no problem...I have PB blaster so that should do it.....PB blast and go to the front to fill it.....Fill plug will not budge......ok again..PB blaster. So after soaking the diff plugs, I decide to do the t-case while I wait for the PB Blaster to penetrate the diffs. Drain and fill the T-case w/ no problems. So I got back to the front diff fill plug thinking that I will just do the rear some other time, but I need to get some oil in the front diff so I can drive it. I wrestle with it for 30 mins or so..spill the drained oil, cut up my elbow, curse some all while listening to my neighbor blast yani or something of the like. I get nothing. I have also beat up the fill plug which does scare me a little...it is not mangled, just a little beat up..not panicing about that yet..So I soak it some more with PB and here I am venting to you guys/gals. Do you recommend any other ways of getting this plug out so that I can fill the diff.? Obviously I can't go anywhere until it is filled. How long should I give the PB before I try again? Sorry to rant/vent so long over a 1/2 banana job ..
Smit

 

[Doc]

Teacher voice: "class, that's why we always remove the fill plugs first!"

I live in the rust belt, so I generally hit my bolts with PB 2 days before a job. Each day. Sometimes morning and evening if I think it's going to be bad.

 

[clownmidget]

Smit - as for your spark plugs, use the wrench Toyota provided you in your tool kit. IMO, it is pretty nicely designed for the job. It fits perfectly, has the rubber grommet for grabbing onto the plugs, and the t-handle works in tight spots like #6 that can be a challenge for even a "good" set of tools. It also is a little more gentle and has more feel that a standard socket so it can prevent you from buggering the threads, over tightening, etc.

Getting the plugs out has been pretty well discussed with some fine sand on the socket usually doing the trick. A good 6-pt socket and an impact wrench work well too

Good luck and if I were you I'd call Dan and order some allen plugs and new gaskets for both diffs and the xfer...

 

[TomH]

Always remove the filler bolt first - but I guess its a little late for that kind of advice. Get a good six point socket and try that if you haven't. Some have welded a nut onto the filler bolt if the bolt strips out.

 

[Bear80]

Impact wrench makes it cake, but sounds like you don't have one. Had the same problem and the best thing is to get a straight wrench and smack it with a rubber hammer. If it's still stuck get a bigger hammer, but you don't want to scar up your wrench.

 

[extremetoy1]

Tap the plugs with a small balll peen hammer in a counter clockwise direction(at the edges) quite a few times (go around the outside edge) the shock will loosen it... let me know ! i have done this amny times .... it works!!

 

[smittycrusher]

Clown,

Never thought about the toyota socket...actually wondered what it was for..Thanks for saving me money and time.

Bear,

I will try that technique. I have beat it pretty good but maybe a hammer will do the trick. My socket is a Stanley made for impact wrences (which is ironic, since if I had an impact wrench I would not be in this thread.

Anyways, thanks a ton for the advice...I think that I will go out and do the plugs after another soaking of PB.

Smit

 

[Brentbba]

Smit - Mo also knows what he's doing. I feel your pain. :whoops:

 

[nat88toy]

try a 3ft cheater bar

 

[Slomo]

Smit,

You can also try putting a piece of tubing over the end of the ratchet handle for more leverage. If you do be very careful to not let the socket angle on the fill plug head. You can also use one arm to firmly hold the socket fully on while applying some tension to take up the slack in the ratchet itself and hit the handle with a dead blow hammer. Won't damage the ratchet handle. Give me a call if you need any further assistance.

 

[firetruck41]

Fortunately I found my fill plug wouldn't budge prior to removing the drain plug. It wouldn't budge even using a breaker bar and a hydraulic jack on the end of the breaker bar. I took it to a local shop and offered to pay a few bucks for them to weld on a nut and then break it free, the guy did it in about two minutes and then wouldn't take any money for it. In the mean time you *may* be able to get some lube in there through the breather tube.

 

[smittycrusher]

Smit,

You can also use one arm to firmly hold the socket fully on while applying some tension to take up the slack in the ratchet itself and hit the handle with a dead blow hammer. Won't damage the ratchet handle. Give me a call if you need any further assistance.

I remembered your technique on th 97' when I also could not get that one off. I have tried that to no avail. I did blast it again w/ PB. Gonna try the counter clockwise hammer technique in a couple of hours. I have given up on work today.

The good news is that I just did the plugs/wires/distributor cap/rotor thingy in about 30 mins. Using the factory provided spark plug tool was amazingly easy. Just could not torque it without the torque wrench. #6 was a breeze for the second time in a row. 37 inch arms help I am sure.

Thanks for all the thoughts gentlemen,
Smit

 

[psfpilot]

I eventually was forced to purchase a breaker bar to remove the plugs on the diffs. The extra length on the moment arm made all the difference.

Then again, I wound up rounding off the plug on my GMC pickup...it took a pointed pneumatic chisel to remove.

 

[-Spike-]

I have welded bolts to a couple of diff plugs, then proceeded to remove the plug by hand- no wrench. The heat apparently loosens the plug threads nicely. Next time I run into this I will just use a MAPP torch to heat the plug before getting out the welder.

-Spike

 

[smittycrusher]

I have welded bolts to a couple of diff plugs, then proceeded to remove the plug by hand- no wrench. The heat apparently loosens the plug threads nicely. Next time I run into this I will just use a MAPP torch to heat the plug before getting out the welder.

-Spike

I was thinking about this approach....def. did not want to have any kind of fire on my hands...the thing that sucks is that my mapp torch is 20 miles away at my restaurant...I am learning a very easy lesson in all this...before you drain, remove the fill for no pain.

keeping my fingers crossed for PB success.

Smit

 

[Brentbba]

If you weren't so damn far away, you could borrow my breaker bar. Air tools and compressor at my house also won't do you any good. Cheap long breaker bar shouldn't cost that much. Sounds like that's your next best option.

 

[smittycrusher]

If you weren't so damn far away, you could borrow my breaker bar. Air tools and compressor at my house also won't do you any good. Cheap long breaker bar shouldn't cost that much. Sounds like that's your next best option.

Now I am going to have to google "breaker bar" -- sadly enough I don't even know what one is. There is an Ace Hardware with redicously jacked up prices about 3 blocks from my house. Is this something they would carry? I hope so cause I can walk there.

Smit

 

[Beowulf]

Smit,
A breaker bar is like a swivel-head ratchet without the ratcheting mechanism. They are designed to get torque on a socket to break the fastener loose.

I would strongly suggest a 1/2" breaker bar for your tool box and it should go with you on all trail runs as they make quick work for lug nuts with the proper socket.

-B-

 

[-Spike-]

A caveman approach is simply beating on the nut. Using a medium sized hammer and light to medium force, hit the plug straight on. This breaks the tension between the threads, and I've had some success with this method. Even better if you can apply turning force (CCW) at the same time, like with a closed-end wrench and a ball-peen hammer.

-Spike

 

[CJF]

Ace should be fine in a pinch; pick up something like this:

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/hand_tools-breaker_bar-d.html

Get a 1/2'' drive, six point socket to go with it if you don't already have one.

Good luck and of course keep us posted; this is the only entertainment I've got today!


Curtis