I thought that I had graduated to 1 Banana, Guess not--need your help

[smittycrusher]

Smit,
A breaker bar is like a swivel-head ratchet without the ratcheting mechanism. They are designed to get torque on a socket to break the fastener loose.

I would strongly suggest a 1/2" breaker bar for your tool box and it should go with you on all trail runs as they make quick work for lug nuts with the proper socket.

-B-

-B-,

I just googled it and I have seen those around every tool store I have ever been in. I think I need one of those for sure - and 1/2" it will be. I am holding off for now..would prefer to buy a good one from Sears for the same price that a cheap one at ACE would cost.

I am now going to try the heat/hammer counter clock wise approach. I just finished step 6 so I have renewed (read "false") confidence.

Smit

 

[Brentbba]

Home Despot would carry them as well. I don't have an expensive one and it did make quick work of the lugnuts when I blew a tire in DV. I'll second B's description and recommendation for the 1/2".

 

[smittycrusher]

So I gave up for the day..time for more step 6s. Tom. I will drop the princess of at work, drive myself to work, bring home the mapp torch and buy a breaker bar. Owell lesson learned. The PHHs weren't this bad

Thanks for the ideas,
Smit

 

[tech_dog]

Don't feel bad. I was going to change my spark plugs last month, but found that the lame phillips head screws holding the plastic valve cover cover in place were siezed. I fought them well with a good quality properly sized screwdriver, but they beat me. They're now stripped enough that I gave up, but not enough to be totally embarassing.

Maybe this weekend...

 

[clownmidget]

um, those are also 10-mm hex heads

 

[tech_dog]

Well, that would be a pisser...

My eyes arent' what they used to be, but I have trouble believing I'd make that mistake. I'll take a very close look ASAP.

I'm glad I mentioned it.

Thanks,

T.

 

[MoJ]

-B-,

I just googled it and I have seen those around every tool store I have ever been in. I think I need one of those for sure - and 1/2" it will be. I am holding off for now..would prefer to buy a good one from Sears for the same price that a cheap one at ACE would cost.

I am now going to try the heat/hammer counter clock wise approach. I just finished step 6 so I have renewed (read "false") confidence.

Smit

Bought a 1/2" for about $7 at Harbor Freight and it has held up nicely.

 

[tech_dog]

um, those are also 10-mm hex heads

Well, I just got home and they are indeed phillips head screws.

You've got a 97 and I've got a 94. Maybe they changed to the hexes because people were having the problem I've got. Phillips heads seem a bad choice for under the hood.

Either way, there's still no solid evidence that I'm an idiot, unless someone gets a hold of my ex-gf's.

 

[clownmidget]

Hah, well I learned something too

I guess it goes without saying - Order the newer ones from Dan!

 

[smittycrusher]

my 93' and 97' both have hex heads. I will do your plugs if you will fill my diff.....deal?

smit

 

[tech_dog]

my 93' and 97' both have hex heads. I will do your plugs if you will fill my diff.....deal?

smit

That seems strange. Maybe cDan will chime in an explain it. I've got one of the 94's that was build in December of 94, hitting the US in early 95.

 

[Mickldo]

I don't even bother trying to remove Toyota fill/drain plugs unless I have my 24mm single hex socket and my 1/2" drive breaker bar. I always give the plug a decent tap with a decent sized hammer square on to the plug to loosen everything first. If the plug isn't tapped first or a double hex socket/spanner is used sucess usually isn't guaranteed.

 

[DaveyBoy]

Clown,

Never thought about the toyota socket...actually wondered what it was for..Thanks for saving me money and time.

I never thought about the Toyota socket either
I cut off the wire on one of the old set and used the
plunger part to get each plug out and thread it in before
tightening it with a regular socket

 

[94landcruiser]

That seems strange. Maybe cDan will chime in an explain it. I've got one of the 94's that was build in December of 94, hitting the US in early 95.

Mine is November 94 and also has Phillips, they suck.

 

[DaveyBoy]

Mine is November 94 and also has Phillips, they suck.

Mine is a 96 and mine are phillips as well.

 

[Slomo]

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to the phillips/hex head dilema. My 97 has the hex heads.


So Smit, did you get your diff filled?

 

[smittycrusher]

So Smit, did you get your diff filled?

Nope, at the restaurant now. Taking my Mapp gas torch home with me. Stopping by Sears on the way home for a 1/2" breaker bar. Also crossing my fingers hoping to get it done tonight. If I get it done pretty quickly I might even have a chance to install my new slee t-case skid on the LX . That would be a nice reward. None the less I am fully tooled for multipled step 6s if I come back on hard times.

,
Smit

 

[Trunk Monkey]

This is going to sound retarded, but I've done this more than once. Working upside down on the creeper, I've gotten rightsie-tightsie and leftsie-loosie backwards. Just a thought.

 

[Heffenoche]

An impacted driver from Sears should also work. Take a look at one they can come in very handy.

 

[Grench]

Done that.

The worst was doing the two bolts on the back of the block with your arm twisted & cut and you can't see the bolt an you're sideways & upside down in the wheel well and your blood pressure is rising because it won't move either way... Then it gives and your hand colides with ?something sharp? and you drop the wrench and can't find it for 10 minutes. THEN you go back into it, get the wrench on and start turning then it stops and you realize you've just retightened the $@$% bolt.

Yep. I feel for ya.

This is going to sound retarded, but I've done this more than once. Working upside down on the creeper, I've gotten rightsie-tightsie and leftsie-loosie backwards. Just a thought.