Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
With the lackluster 80 series brakes and all the excess weight, extra power on tap with forced induction and a few close calls...I have wanted to get some better braking performance. I have already moved to 17” wheels, so rotor diameter is not limited like with the stock 16” wheels.
My goal was to keep the parts used as OEM as possible for future availability and maintenance ease/cost.
I new that the 5th gen 4Runner front calipers share the same bolt pattern as the 80 series calipers so I ordered up a pair from Toyota. I also wanted to attempt to make the front brakes easier to service by going to a slip fit design, allowing the hub to be left in place...the early 200 series rotor dimensions looked promising...so picked up a pair of those too.
The early 200 rotors are 13.3” diameter...same as the 5th gen 4Runner diameter.
The theory was to machine the hub wheel face down enough to allow the centerline of the 200 rotor to sit in the middle of the 4Runner caliper. My friend @I Lean then took my hubs to his lathe to turn them down enough to get the center line matched up.
After getting the rotor mounting depth on the hub right, the next step is to ensure the slip fit rotors are hub centric. Since the 80 hub is 106mm and the 200 rotor hub hole is 112mm, the solution what to cut out a .25” plate ring that could be pressed over the hub and then turned down on the lathe to 112mm.
This pic shows the machined face with ring pressed on and turned down. The rotor fits perfectly centered in place.
This next part isn’t essential, but it is one solution to a problem that kept in line with my design to stick with OEM parts. When moving to a slip fit design, the thickness of the hub mating face of the rotor (.25”) would reduce engagable wheel stud length by the same amount. You could solve this problem a few ways.
The last step is to modify the bolt pattern on the 200 rotor from 5 bolt to 6 bolt. @I Lean cut out a template on his plasma table to use as a drill pattern. This is the only part that would be great to find a better solution for...such as rotor blanks pre-drilling.
Test fitment of hub and rotor in 17” Icon Alloy wheel once my new M14x1.5 Method lugs arrived.
After rebuilding the knuckle (while your in there victim), I slapped the rotor, caliper and pads on...pretty happy with the result so far.
The pad alignment is perfect with the 13.3” rotors
I still need to hook up the hydraulics and figure out if I need to change out the master with a larger bore...but will run as-is to test before touching the master.
My goal was to keep the parts used as OEM as possible for future availability and maintenance ease/cost.
I new that the 5th gen 4Runner front calipers share the same bolt pattern as the 80 series calipers so I ordered up a pair from Toyota. I also wanted to attempt to make the front brakes easier to service by going to a slip fit design, allowing the hub to be left in place...the early 200 series rotor dimensions looked promising...so picked up a pair of those too.
The early 200 rotors are 13.3” diameter...same as the 5th gen 4Runner diameter.
The theory was to machine the hub wheel face down enough to allow the centerline of the 200 rotor to sit in the middle of the 4Runner caliper. My friend @I Lean then took my hubs to his lathe to turn them down enough to get the center line matched up.
After getting the rotor mounting depth on the hub right, the next step is to ensure the slip fit rotors are hub centric. Since the 80 hub is 106mm and the 200 rotor hub hole is 112mm, the solution what to cut out a .25” plate ring that could be pressed over the hub and then turned down on the lathe to 112mm.
This pic shows the machined face with ring pressed on and turned down. The rotor fits perfectly centered in place.
This next part isn’t essential, but it is one solution to a problem that kept in line with my design to stick with OEM parts. When moving to a slip fit design, the thickness of the hub mating face of the rotor (.25”) would reduce engagable wheel stud length by the same amount. You could solve this problem a few ways.
- Get longer M12 studs from some other application.
- Use ET lug nuts designed to engage further down the threads.
- The option I went with...use 100 series M14 wheel studs. These are longer and also stronger. I liked this since I have already snapped M12 wheel studs on the interstate and that is some scary sh!t.
The last step is to modify the bolt pattern on the 200 rotor from 5 bolt to 6 bolt. @I Lean cut out a template on his plasma table to use as a drill pattern. This is the only part that would be great to find a better solution for...such as rotor blanks pre-drilling.
Test fitment of hub and rotor in 17” Icon Alloy wheel once my new M14x1.5 Method lugs arrived.
After rebuilding the knuckle (while your in there victim), I slapped the rotor, caliper and pads on...pretty happy with the result so far.
The pad alignment is perfect with the 13.3” rotors
I still need to hook up the hydraulics and figure out if I need to change out the master with a larger bore...but will run as-is to test before touching the master.
Last edited:
